T' design doesn't have a lot o' detail, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, as it is kind o' experimental. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! I plan on expandin' on this concept and maybe goin' larger and more detailed on the next version. Avast! Blimey! I'm still thinkin' about ways t' build a non-tube based hull. Maybe from sheet balsa or foamboard. Begad! Blimey! But, back t' t' subject....

Layout t' patterns on your balsa stock and cut them out. Ahoy! Arrr! Glue t' three sections o' t' pylon fairin' together and sand t' edges round except for the front. Aye aye! Avast! I left this flat and later put on two small pieces o' stripin' tape to simulate torpedo launcher ports. T' main pylon can have t' edges rounded except for t' front. round these edges off after gluin' on t' fairing. Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! Both root edges o' t' pylon where given a radius by sandin' with a section of sandpaper wrapped around a section o' BT50 tube. Aye aye! Begad! (use this method on t' root edges o' t' nacelle pylon too)

Cut t' secondary hull section o' BT50 at t' angles shown on t' drawing. Begad! I used a razor saw and lightly sanded t' edges, then soaked t' edges with CA to harden them, shiver me timbers, then finished sandin' t' edges smooth. Aye aye! Blimey! T' plugs for t' ends are center disks from t' Estes paper centerin' rings sanded t' fit. Ahoy! T' shape will be a little bit elliptical. Avast, me proud beauty! T' aft disk is recessed about 1/16" in at the bottom and about 3/4" at t' top. Begad! Ahoy! T' front disk is recessed 1/16" all around. I added white glue fillets t' all t' disks for extra strength and t' fill small gaps. Blimey! I then added a BT20 sized center disk to simulate t' deflector dish. Avast! I was hopin' for somethin' more "dish" shaped but didn't have anythin' suitable on hand. Ahoy! Mark t' tube with one line on center and one line on each side o' it at 45 degrees for t' root o' the nacelle pylons. Aye aye! Ya scallywag!

Cut t' engine nacelle tubes t' size with one end at a 45 degree angle. Well, blow me down! Soak with a little CA t' harden before sanding. Well, blow me down! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Assemble t' nozzles and install in the angled aft o' t' pylons as shown in t' detail. Glue in t' nose cone in each nacelle with a bit o' 5 minute epoxy. Aye aye! Aye aye! I used t' conical PNC type that comes with t' Estes PNC20 nose cone pack. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Rounded or ogive shapes would also work, me bucko, ya bilge rat, it's more a matter o' what looks best t' you. Ya scallywag! T' conical ones where "in stock". Avast, me proud beauty!

Mark a guide line along t' main BT50 and glue on t' main pylon and the forward fairin' at t' positions shown. Ya scallywag! I used 5 minute epoxy tacked in place with thick CA. Avast! I added small white glue fillets after t' epoxy set. Add the launch lugs t' each side o' t' pylon and forward fairin' only after all the fillets are in. Arrr! I would also suggest spacin' them out with a small 1/16" thick balsa strip t' keep t' rod from marrin' t' side o' t' body tube after it's painted. Aye aye! I glued on t' aft lugs first then used a small section of 1/8" rod t' align t' forward lugs with t' rear. Begad! Avast!

Glue t' nacelle pylon fairings t' each end o' t' pylons addin' in the filler piece t' t' front and t' rear. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, arrr, blow me down! Sand smooth after t' glue dries. Ya scallywag! Avast! I used Yellow wood glue for t' balsa t' balsa joints. Begad! Sand a radius t' each pylon root with a piece o' sand paper wrapped around a section o' BT50 tube. Ya scallywag!

Assemble t' motor mount. Begad! Begad! Blimey! I used an engine hook bent from a section of 1/32" music wire. Ahoy! Blimey! T' aft centerin' rin' is 3/4" from t' motor end, the front rin' is flush with t' tube end. I used a Keelhaul®©™® shock cord mount (1/32" diameter from Apogee Components) and secured it t' t' forward centerin' ring. Begad! I drilled a small hole betwixt t' tube and t' rin' and fed the cord through it and tied it in a loop around t' motor tube. Avast! I have also used Keelhaul®©™® and t' old slit and glue method for shock cord mounts. Avast! Well, matey, blow me down! I am beginnin' t' prefer this method as it keeps t' cord mount a little farther away from t' ejection end if t' motor. Ahoy! T' slit is easily filled and smoothed with a little Elmers Fill-N-Finish or similar wood filler. Or just use your preferred method and materials. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Glue in t' motor mount so t' motor tube end is flush with t' back o' t' main body tube. Ahoy! Begad!

Glue t' secondary hull body tube t' t' pylon with 5 minute epoxy. Blimey! Blimey! Center the pylon on t' middle guide mark on t' body tube. Ahoy! Blimey! Glue t' nacelle-pylon assemblies t' t' secondary hull centerin' t' pylon roots on t' guide marks. Add white glue fillets t' t' fairing/hull joints. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Make sure t' engine nacelles are parallel with t' secondary hull and t' main hull body tubes. Ya scallywag! Blimey!

I used a 18" diameter octagon chute made from red metallic mylar "wrappin' paper". Begad! Ya scallywag! This size works well. You could also go with an 16" chute for windy days or smaller fields. Blimey! Avast! I've flown it with each size. T' second flight had t' 16" chute and it be fairly breezy. It had very little weather cockin' durin' boost. Aye aye! Drift isn't too big a problem with this bird. Begad! Ahoy!

I didn't add any nose weight t' t' plastic nose cone. Ya scallywag! T' CG is just in front o' t' forward pylon/main hull joint with an engine installed. I have no idea where t' CP would be on this thin' so I guessed! I would think it's a ways back because o' t' long pylons and t' engine nacelles. Aye aye!

I painted mine all white. T' photo was shot before I added 1/8" wide red stripin' tape trim. T' deflector disk was painted red. Begad! Blimey! T' engine "nozzles" where painted flat black. I ran a stripe down each side of the main hull with a break near t' middle. Ahoy! Blimey! I added t' registry number NCC 72132 (my NARRRRR #) in t' gap. Aye aye! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I also plan t' add t' name t' t' front o' the main hull just behind t' nose cone. I used small adhesive back letterin' and had t' cut each one out and stick it in place. Well, blow me down! Blimey! This was kinda tedious, me hearties, a custom decal would have been easier. Aye aye! Blimey!

If anyone is interested I can email you cad files for t' patterns. Arrr! I can supply them in AutoCad ".dwg" for release12 and 14, or in ".dxf" release 12 or 14. Begad! Email me directly if you would like these formats. Ya scallywag! Arrr! My email address is waivlink@aol.com

Parts list;
BT50 x 18" lg. 1 pc. Begad! Blimey! main hull
BT50 x 8 3/4" lg. Blimey! 1 pc. Arrr! Ya scallywag! secondary hull
BT20 x 7 1/2" lg. Avast! 2 pc. Ya scallywag! Blimey! engine nacelles
PNC50 1 pc. Begad! longest nose cone from Estes NC-50 nose cone assortment
PNC20 2 pc. conical nose cone from Estes NC-20 nose cone assortment
1/8" x 1" lg. launch lugs 4 pcs.

standard engine mount Estes EST-303157 engine mount kit
--OR--
BT20 x 2 3/4" lg. Begad! 1 pc.
AR-2050 adapter rings 2 pc.
BT20 size engine block or 1/4" lg. section o' a spent engine casing
engine hook, me bucko, me bucko, bent from 1/32" music wire or similar. Avast, me proud beauty! (engine hook optional)

16" or 18" parachute
snap swivel for chute
18" x 1/32" diameter Keelhaul®©™® cord 100 pound test or equivalent.
36" x 1/8 flat or similar sized round elastic cord.
balsa stock;
1/4" for main pylon and fairing
1/8" for engine pylons and fairings