T' "FAO Schwarzkopf" Model Rocket

...Yes, arrr, it really is a rocket!

• McDonald's Happy Meals
• Pringles Cans
• Large Dice and/or Star Trek Borg Cubes
• John Handcock Buildings
• Drink Cups
• Wiffle Bats
• Etc...

1. If you haven't already done so, me hearties, go back t' t' initial construction page and follow t' instructions for separatin' t' soldier head from t' rest o' t' body.
2. Drill a 3/8" diameter in t' center o' t' 2.6" Bulkhead (Item 7)
3. Epoxy t' 2.6" bulkhead (Item 7) flush with one end o' t' 2.6" Body Tube (Item 2). Apply a generous epoxy fillet t' t' inside corner where these items meet.
4. Usin' approximately 1 ft. Ahoy! o' t' braided nylon cord (Item 16), make a "LOC Style" shock cord mount and epoxy into t' body tube (Item 2). Aye aye! Important: make sure t' mount is at least 2.5" into t' tube t' allow clearance for t' shoulder interface with t' body. Also, keep t' loop o' t' mount within t' body tube t' avoid zipperin' o' t' tube. Well, blow me down!
5. Fit t' body tube/Bulkhead assembly in t' soldier head. Aye aye! You will need t' trim/sand t' openin' in t' bottom of t' head so that t' tube fits "just snug" in t' hole. Begad! T' body tube should protrude down from the openin' approximately 1/8" when fully inserted in t' head..
6. Align tube within t' head so that t' bulkhead side is centered in t' top o' t' head and mark t' location for t' hole in t' top o' t' head. Aye aye! T' plastic is translucent and shinin' a light up from t' bottom will let you see the location o' t' hole already in t' bulkhead plate. Blimey! Usin' a hobby knife or drill, cut a 3/8" diameter hole in soldier head at t' mark.
7. Glue t' 5/16 nut (Item 10) t' one o' t' Fender Washers (Item 8) with CA and hit with accelerator to completely dry. Place this nut/washer into a socket with a long extension and insert into t' head tube. Arrr! Blimey! From the outside, insert t' Machine Screw (Item 9) through a Fender Washer (Item 8) and tighten assembly together. Blimey! Blimey! Check that the Body Tube is centered in t' head; if required, adjust t' hole in t' top o' t' hat.
8. Once t' proper hole size/location is set, disassemble, paint t' outside Fender Washer and Machine Screw white t' match t' head and re-assemble. Avast! Paint t' bottom few inches o' t' Body Tube red t' match t' soldier neck. Avast! Ahoy!
9. When all t' paint is dry, matey, reassemble as above.

1. If you haven't already done so, shiver me timbers, go back t' t' initial construction page and follow t' instructions for separatin' t' soldier head from t' rest o' t' body.
2. Fit t' 2.6" body tube (Item 3) into t' hole in t' top o' t' soldier body (Item 1) by trimmin' with a hobby knife and sanding. Ahoy! This fit should be fairly snug as no no adhesive will be used here.
3. Epoxy t' tube coupler (Item 19) t' one end o' t' body tube (Item 3) leavin' 2.0" extendin' from t' top of t' tube.
4. Wick thin CA into t' exposed end o' t' couplin' t' strengthen it since this will provide t' link t' the Head.
5. Usin' approximately 1 ft. Ya scallywag! o' t' braided nylon cord (Item 16), make a "LOC Style" shock cord mount and epoxy into t' coupler (Item 19). Begad! Aye aye! Keep t' loop o' t' mount within t' coupler t' avoid zipperin' o' t' tube. Blimey!
6. Epoxy one o' t' centerin' rings (Item 6) flush with t' bottom o' t' body tube (Item 3). Begad! Blimey! This end is opposite t' one with t' coupling.
7. Usin' your favorite method, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, draw a straight line along t' outside o' t' body tube. Avast! Ya scallywag! Epoxy one section o' the launch lug (Item 22) flush with t' bottom o' t' body tube along t' line.
8. Locate t' center o' t' bottom o' t' toy soldier (Item 1). Well, blow me down! Begad! With a rectangular or square base as is on my soldier, arrr, this is accomplished by drawin' two lines across t' corners o' t' base. Where t' lines meet be t' center of t' area. Well, blow me down! Mark and cut a clearance hole for t' 29mm motor mount tubin' (Item 5). Ya scallywag! Begad! No need t' be neat, shiver me timbers, it's just a clearance hole but try nay t' get too big with it.
9. On t' square base o' t' toy soldier (Item 1), cut an access hole for t' backin' plate (See Final Assembly) as shown in t' second drawin' t' t' right.

1. Assemble t' LOC Modular Baffle Unit (Item 18) per t' instructions which came with it.
2. Usin' your favorite method, mark 3 equally spaced lines along t' outside o' t' Body Tube (Item 4). Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! T' the right o' each o' these lines, matey, me hearties, draw another line at t' thickness o' t' fin. Arrr! Well, arrr, blow me down! Across each o' t' double lines, make a mark 1/4" from one end o' t' Body Tube (Item 4). Avast! Mark this same end TOP. Avast, me proud beauty! Across each o' t' double lines, make a mark 1/2" from t' opposite (Bottom) end o' t' Body Tube (Item 4). These are t' fin slots.
3. Usin' a metal straight edge and hobby knife, cut out t' fin slots. Avast, me proud beauty! Work patiently and change blades often.
4. On t' centerin' rin' (Item 6), shiver me timbers, mark 3 lines spaced 120° deg. Ahoy! apart (see figure at right) t' denote the fin locations. Blimey! Blimey! Mark one o' t' fin lines "REAR". Begad! Also, me hearties, mark this side o' t' CR "TOP". Well, blow me down! Directly in-between t' fin lines, me bucko, mark t' center o' t' 3 holes as shown in t' figure. Begad! Do nay drill t' holes yet!
5. Mark one side o' t' 1/8" plywood Backup Plate (Item 14) "TOP" and mark one o' t' flat sides of t' Backup Plate "REAR". Find t' center o' this plate by drawin' lines across diagonal corners. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! Place the centerin' rin' (Item 6) over t' Backup Plate with both "TOP" sides up. Ya scallywag! T' fin line marked "REAR" should point directly at t' aft side o' t' Backin' Plate. Center t' hole in t' CR on t' center mark o' t' Backup Plate and clamp t' two pieces together. Arrr! Well, me bucko, blow me down! Trace t' 29 mm hole from t' CR t' t' Backin' Plate. Begad! Avast! With the pieces still clamped together, me hearties, drill three Ø7/32" holes at t' marked locations.
6. Cut out t' 29 mm hole marked in t' center o' t' Backin' Plate (Item 14). Arrr! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Check t' fit with t' MMT (Item 5) it should be loose t' allow for alignment in t' final assembly.
7. Take t' Backin' Plate (Item 14) and center it on t' bottom o' t' Toy Soldier. Blimey! Make sure the TOP side o' t' Backin' Plate is facin' t' head o' t' soldier and t' side marked REAR is t' t' back o' t' Toy Soldier. Begad! Well, blow me down! Now mark t' locations o' t' three screw hols on t' bottom o' t' Toy Soldier foot. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! These will be cut out in the final assembly step.
8. Epoxy t' T-Nuts (Item 11) t' t' TOP side o' t' Backin' Plate centered over t' holes drilled in the previous step. You can use t' screws t' make sure t' T-Nuts are centered over t' holes but do nay glue t' screws into t' T-Nuts.
9. With t' TOP side up, matey, epoxy t' CR with t' holes in it flush with t' top o' t' Body Tube (Item 4). Ahoy! Blimey! Align the fin lines on t' CR with t' slots in t' Body Tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Allow t' fully dry before proceedin' t' t' next stop. Aye aye!
10. Epoxy t' MMT (Item 5) t' t' CR/BT assembly from t' previous step. Arrr! T' MMT should be flush with t' bottom of t' Body Tube. Well, blow me down! Insert t' last Centerin' Rin' (Item 6) into t' aft o' t' Body Tube t' keep t' MMT centered durin' epoxy curin' but do nay glue t' bottom CR at this time.
11. Epoxy t' Modular Baffle Unit (Item 18) t' t' top o' t' MMT (Item 5) as described in t' Baffle Unit instructions.
12. Usin' t' Fin Pattern, arrr, matey, cut the Christmas Tree Fins (Item 15) from t' 5 Ply Mach-1 Balsa Ply stock notin' t' grain direction in t' figure. Avast! Blimey! Sand all fins together t' match t' profiles. Blimey! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! Due t' t' strange shape, arrr, I left me leadin' edges square. Aye aye! Blimey! Test fit t' Fins in the slots and trim t' fin tabs so t' shoulders but up against t' outside o' t' Body Tube and t' tabs just touch the MMT.
13. Epoxy t' Christmas Tree Fins (Item 15) t' t' BT/MMT assembly. Insert t' last Centerin' Rin' (Item 6) into the aft o' t' Body Tube t' keep t' MMT centered durin' epoxy curin' but do nay glue t' bottom CR at this time. Ya scallywag! Apply epoxy fillets inside and out at all fin/tube junctions.
14. If you will be usin' a positive motor retention system, ya bilge rat, make provisions in t' aft Centerin' Rin' (Item 6) but do nay glue t' bottom CR at this time! (That will be done in t' final step.
15. Epoxy one o' t' launch lugs (Item 22) t' t' REAR Fin/Body Tube joint and fillet well.

1. Double check t' Alignment o' t' CR t' Backin' Plate: Use a T-Handle allen wrench (if Item 12 is a socket head cap screw) or socket wrench with extension (if Item 12 is a hex head screw) t' insert t' Screws and washers into t' bottom o' t' fin can and t' t' T-Nuts in t' backin' plate (Make sure t' fin marked REAR is in alignment with t' side o' t' Backin' Plate marked REAR). Avast! If t' screws don't line up with t' T-nuts well, matey, increase the size o' t' holes in t' CR with t' next larger size drill (1/4"). Ahoy! Check again and if required open one or more o' t' holes t' accommodate.
2. Backin' Plate Launch Rod Clearance: With t' Backin' Plate still assembled t' t' Fin Assembly, place a 1/4" rod up t' launch lug and mark its outline on t' Backin' Plate. Arrr! Cut out a clearance slot for t' launch rod in t' Backin' Plate. Begad! Cut this hole oversized for clearance.
3. Slot t' Toy Soldier Bottom for t' Screws: Usin' t' markings from Step 7 o' t' Fin Unit Construction, shiver me timbers, cut slots out from t' center 29mm openin' around t' markings as seen in Fig. Aye aye! Blimey! A at t' right. Due t' the un-even nature o' t' bottom o' t' Toy Soldier plastic mold, matey, you may need t' make these slots larger in a later step.
4. Backin' Plate Installation: Insert t' backin' plate (made in t' Fin Unit Construction section) into the slot in t' bottom o' t' Toy Soldier foot. Make sure t' side marked aft is point back as it will be hard t' turn once it is inside.
5. Fin Assy. Blimey! t' Body Alignment: Slide t' Toy Soldier Over t' MMT o' t' Fin Assembly until it rests on the top o' t' fin can. Startin' with t' hole at t' front (the one you can't see) use a T-Handle allen wrench (if Item 12 is a socket head cap screw) or socket wrench with extension (if Item 12 is a hex head screw) t' insert the Screws and washers into t' bottom o' t' fin can, through t' Toy Soldier bottom and into t' T-Nuts in t' backing plate. Aye aye! Ahoy! Blimey! If you cannot make t' screws fit, me bucko, shiver me timbers, you will need t' expand t' slots made in t' previous step. Do nay fully tighten t' screws yet.
6. Fin Assy. Begad! Avast! Centering: Next, shiver me timbers, check that t' Fin Assembly is centered on t' bottom square o' t' Toy Soldier. Well, blow me down! Again if you can't get t' Fin Assembly t' center, you will need t' expand t' slots made in step 1 above.
7. Body Bottom Launch Rod Clearance: Insert a piece o' 1/4" rod in t' launch lug attached t' the rear fin until it touches t' bottom o' t' Toy Soldier. Blimey! Mark t' outline o' t' rod on t' Toy Soldier bottom. Begad! Cut out the plastic for clearance around this mark.
8. Top Body Launch Rod Clearance: Now from t' top o' t' body, me bucko, me bucko, me bucko, sight t' openin' in t' bottom and create a cutout at t' top for t' launch rod as seen in Figure B.
9. Launch Rod Clearance Lug Alignment: Now slide t' body tube (Item 3) into t' top o' t' Toy Soldier Body until t' top o' t' tube is flush with t' top o' t' Toy Soldier Body as seen in Figure B. Ya scallywag! (T' bottom CR should go over t' 29mm MMT o' t' Fin Assy. Blimey! Insert a 1/4" launch rod through t' bottom launch lug on t' fin assembly and t' internal body launch lug. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! This rod will bind on t' Toy Soldier's legs which must be trimmed as seen in Figure C. Do not epoxy t' Toy Soldier Body Tube in place yet!
10. Launch Lug Alignment: Check that t' launch rod inserted in t' previous step moves freely through both launch lugs. Avast! If not, t' Fin Assembly is angled and needs t' be shimmed into position as shown in Figure D at right. Use scrap pieces o' t' aircraft plywood betwixt t' fin tops and Toy Soldier Bottom t' pull t' Fin Assembly into allignment with t' Body Tube.
11. Soldier/Fin Attacment: With Everythin' aligned so t' launch rod moves freely through both launch lugs, Tighten t' screws which go into t' Backin' Plate T-Nuts. Arrr! From t' open end o' t' Toy Soldier Body, drop some epoxy or CyA adhesive onto t' exposed threads o' t' capscrews t' lock them in place. Begad! Next, with t' launch rod in place, epoxy t' Toy Soldier Body Tube t' t' Fin Assembly MMT. Ya scallywag! Apply a generous fillet t' this joint. Aye aye! Arrr!
12. Head Launch Rod Clearance: Place t' Soldier Head on t' Body Tube and mark and cut openings for the launch rod as in previous steps.
13. Shock Cord/'Chute: Tie t' ends o' t' shock cord t' t' mounts in t' Head and Body. Begad! Tie a loop in the shock cord about 1.5 ft. Begad! Avast! from t' head and attach t' parachute t' t' loop with t' heavy duty snap swivel.
14. Balance: With t' parachute installed but without a motor, matey, t' FAO Schwartzkopf balances at 18" down from t' flat o' t' head. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! This position works fine for t' F62 Darkstar and G80 motors. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! For other motors, weight may be required in t' head. Ya scallywag! Blimey! This can easily be accomplished by addin' more fender washers under t' hat.

April 02, me bucko, ya bilge rat, 2000

N.I.R.A. Special Launch (To beat t' then impendin' insurance lapse date of 4/5/00)

T' first flight o' t' FAO Schwartzkopf was on an F62-4 Darkstar motor with a simmed altitude of 355ft. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Boy be I nervous with t' rocket on t' pad and all t' still shots taken t' LCO called for a head's up. He gave t' countdown and... major disappointment... Aye aye! nothing. Blimey! One o' t' spectators had seen a clip fall off an igniter lead so that was an easy recycle and away we went again.....

5 ... Begad! Blimey! 4 ... Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! 3 ... Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! 2 ... Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! 1 ... Ahoy! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Launch and t' Laser Fire igniter immediately sent t' Darkstar into overdrive! A roar hit t' spectators as t' pad be engulfed in thick black smoke. Avast! Aye aye! It had t' have been t' straightest flight o' t' day and t' crowd showed their appreciation with a few cheers as t' parachute unfulred right at apogee t' brin' t' FAO Schwartzkopf safely back t' earth.

T' launch be a little too quick for me camerman but he did get t' very impressive Darkstar smoke trail from t' maiden flight which is shown at right.

April 02, 2000 (at Same Launch as Above)

N.I.R.A. Special Launch (To beat t' then impendin' insurance lapse date of 4/5/00)

With all t' first flight gitters out o' t' way, I loaded t' FAO Schwartzkopf with a G80-4 Fast White Lightnin' t' really wake up t' neighbors. Ahoy! Begad! I had never seen one o' these Fast White Lightnin' motors burn and all I can say is WOW!

I ditched t' Copperhead that came with t' G80 and opted for another Laser Fire t' fire t' FAO Schwartzkopf again and was nay disappointed. Well, blow me down! Blimey! This thin' is like a White Lightnin' motor on steroids. Ahoy! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey!

This flight simmed out t' around 525ft. It didn't seem 175ft. Begad! higher than t' first flight but deployment again occured very near apogee for a textbook flight. Ahoy! Begad!

This time, shiver me timbers, t' camerman would nay loose t' race and t' results are seen in t' photo at t' left. Avast! Click image for Higher Resolution.