recommended motors:
B6-4 B8-5 C5-3 C6-3 C6-5
D, ya bilge rat, me bucko, E, F, and shorter motors are conceivable, but require larger-calibre motor/recovery pods.

3 - round 8-ounce baby bottles (I used Evenflo Classic nurser system)
1 - nipple (I used Evenflo Classic Sensitive Response)
1 - nipple retainer rin' (for above bottles)
1 - sealin' disc (for above bottles)
1 - 140 mm o' BT-20 body tube
1 - 18mm-dia, 6mm thick nose block
1 - motor clip for 18mm motor
1 - motor block for 18mm motor
1 - 120mm x 120mm x 1.5mm thickness paper board, or game card stock, ya bilge rat, me bucko, or 3/32" balsa wood
1 - 3mm (1/8") x 70cm (27.5") elastic shock cord
1 - small snap-swivel
1 - 23cm (9") o' Keelhaul®©™® twine, shiver me timbers, crochet twine, shiver me timbers, arrr, or parachute shroud line
1 - 13mm x 100mm strip o' kraft paper or masking tape
Some plastic cement (I used Testor's)
Some yellow or white glue.
1 - 46cm (18") octagonal plastic parachute "kit"
        This parachute kit can be put together with:
          1 - large black or orange garbage bag
          4 - 36" length o' crochet twine
         16 - hole reinforcement rings for 3-rin' binder paper
          1 - single-hole paper punch 

Boddomuk construction can be split into three phases: airframe construction, pod construction, arrr, arrr, and final assembly. Avast, me proud beauty!

NOTE: For t' followin' instructions,
"Cement" implies t' use plastic cement (such as Testor's Plastic Cement) or any other adhesive that will effectively bond t' flexible, non-porous plastic that t' baby bottles are made of.
"Glue" implies t' use o' yellow glue (alphatic resin, matey, or "carpenter's glue") or any adhesive that will effectively bond cardboard, shiver me timbers, arrr, balsa wood, ya bilge rat, arrr, and paper. Arrr!

1. Aye aye! Airframe Construction

1.1  Cut t' bottom 6 mm off o' t' three baby bottles. Use a band saw or a razor saw for this step. Ya scallywag! Arrr! T' bottles are too slippery, arrr, too tough, and too thick t' do this safely with a hobby knife. Ya scallywag! Arrr!

1.2  Select which bottle will be t' body. Ya scallywag! Make six tube fins from t' other two bottles by cuttin' t' bottles into 37 mm lengths. Blimey! Again, use a band saw or a razor saw. Ya scallywag!

1.3  Cement two tube fins together, side-by-side with t' ends even. Blimey! Blimey! Set t' assembly aside, me bucko, restin' on t' sides o' t' tubes fins rather than on t' ends. Blimey! Wait for t' cement t' dry. Begad! Arrr! Blimey! Repeat with t' two remaining pairs o' tube fins. Begad!

1.4  Cement a pair o' tube fins t' t' body bottle, me bucko, extendin' 10 mm beyond t' bottom cut edge o' t' body bottle. Blimey! Cement another pair t' the body bottle and t' t' mounted tube fin pair. Avast! Cement t' final pair t' t' body bottle and t' t' mounted tube fin pairs. All tube fins must extend 10 mm beyond t' bottom o' t' bottom o' t' body bottle. Well, blow me down! Wait until t' cement is dry.

1.5  Wrap an adhesive label around t' straw. Begad! Aye aye! Cement the label-wrapped straw t' t' body bottle, aligned with a triangular gap formed by two tube fins and t' body bottle. Ahoy! This should provide enough clearance for easy insertion o' a launch rod betwixt two tube fins.

2. Avast! Arrr! Pod Construction

2.1  Cut centerin' rings from 1.5 mm thick paper board or 3/32" balsa wood. Arrr! Blimey! Each centerin' rin' must have an inner diameter o' 18.7 mm and an outer diameter o' 52 mm. Begad! Arrr! Sand t' outside edge o' t' rings for a tight fit inside t' body bottle. Avast!

2.2  Punch or cut four 1/4" diameter holes, me bucko, evenly spaced around t' BT-20 tube, matey, centered 21 mm from one end o' t' tube. Avast! Aye aye! This end o' the tube is referred-to as t' "top" end in followin' steps.

2.3  Glue t' 5 mm (1/4") thick balsa block into the "top" o' t' BT-20 tube so that it is flush with t' "top" edge o' t' tube. Well, blow me down! What is meant by a "nose block" is a balsa cylinder whose diameter be t' inner diameter o' t' BT-20 tube. Avast! Ya scallywag! It can be made by turnin' it on a mini-lathe or by cuttin' an 18 mm circle out o' a 1/4" thick sheet o' balsa wood. Well, blow me down!

2.4  Glue a motor block 60 mm (2 1/2") up the "bottom" end o' t' BT-20 tube as follows:
     a)  Spread a bead o' glue, me hearties, 2" inside the "bottom" end o' t' BT-20 tube.
     b)  Insert t' motor block into the "bottom" end o' t' BT-20 tube.
     c)  Push an expended 18mm motor casing, into t' "bottom" end o' t' BT-20 tube until 5 mm (1/4") o' the casin' sticks out o' t' tube. Ya scallywag! Immediately withdraw t' expended motor casing. Ahoy!

2.5  Make a 3 mm (1/8") mark, 65 mm from the "bottom" end o' t' BT-20 tube. Ahoy! Cut a 5 mm (1/8") slit along this mark. Ya scallywag! Insert one end o' a motor clip into this slit. Avast!

2.6  Secure t' inserted end o' t' motor clip t' t' BT-20 tube by applyin' glue t' one side o' a 13 mm x 100 mm strip o' kraft paper, me bucko, then wrappin' t' strip over t' inserted end o' t' motor clip. A weaker alternative would be t' use a 13 mm x 100 mm strip o' maskin' tape in place of the kraft paper. Avast, me proud beauty! T' main purpose o' this strip is t' ensure that no exhaust gases enter t' parachute compartment, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, so maskin' tape should be fine. Begad! Begad!

2.7  Mount a centerin' rin' 42 mm from t' "top" end of t' BT-20 tube. Arrr! Secure t' rin' with a bead o' yellow or white glue. Avast! Avast!

2.8  Mount a centerin' rin' 28 mm from t' "top" end of t' BT-20 tube. Well, blow me down! Secure t' rin' with a bead o' yellow or white glue.

2.9  Mount a centerin' rin' 17 mm from t' "bottom" end o' t' BT-20 tube. Blimey! Begad! Secure t' rin' with a bead o' yellow or white glue. This rin' will squeeze t' motor clip against t' BT-20 tube. 

3. Blimey! Final Assembly

3.1  Sand t' centerin' rings o' t' pod for a snug fit into the body bottle o' t' airframe. Begad! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey!

3.2  Assemble t' parachute. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey!

3.3  Tie t' center o' t' 70 cm elastic shock cord t' the middle o' t' pod's BT-20 tube, usin' a square (or "full") knot. Avast!

3.4  Tie one end o' t' shock cord t' one end o' a 23 cm length of twine (crochet, Keelhaul®©™®, or shroud line).

3.5  Tie t' free end o' t' twine t' one o' t' airframe's tube fins. Avast! Blimey!

3.6  Tie t' free end o' t' shock cord t' t' ring-end o' the snap-swivel. Begad!

3.7  Tie t' parachute t' t' snap-end o' t' snap-swivel. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey!

3.8  Assemble the nose as follows:
     a)  Place a sealin' disc on t' mouth of the body bottle, shiver me timbers, me hearties, with t' flat side against t' mouth.
     b)  Place a nipple on t' sealin' disc. Avast!
     c)  Place a nipple retainin' rin' over the nipple and sealin' disc so that its threads engage t' threads o' the airframe's body bottle. Ahoy! Screw t' rin' firmly in place.

1.  Fold the parachute as usual, but press t' folded parachute into a flattened rectangular shape. Arrr! Avast! Blimey!

2.  Wrap t' parachute shroud lines loosely around the parachute. Avast! Aye aye! Blimey!

3.  Press t' parachute onto t' pod, matey, me hearties, betwixt t' middle and bottom centerin' rings o' t' pod. Blimey!

4.  Slide t' pod partially into t' airframe body, matey, so that the parachute is held in place by t' body.

5.  Loosely fold up t' shock cord and slip it into t' same compartment t' contains t' parachute. Begad! T' twine part o' t' shock cord should also be slipped into this compartment so that when t' pod is completely slid into t' airframe body, it is held tight by t' bottom centerin' rin' o' the pod.

6.  Slide t' pod completely into t' airframe body, so that the "top" o' t' pod is against t' sealin' disc at t' mouth o' the airframe body bottle.

7.  Prepare t' Boddomuk for flight as you would any other rocket, ie. Well, matey, blow me down! install t' engine, arrr, slip t' Boddomuk onto a launch rod, install the igniter, and connect t' igniter t' t' launch controller. 

Session 1
Date: Saturday, August 10, me hearties, 2002 Time: 3:30pm CST
Location: Lakeview Park, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Temperature: 27 degrees Celsius (81 degrees Fahrenheit)
Wind: near calm

Loaded with a B6-4, t' Boddomuk's take-off was slow and majestic (especially for a baby bottle :). Blimey! It reached apogee within easy viewin' range, ya bilge rat, and showed us a beautiful pod and 'chute deployment, me bucko, with no apparent tangles. Arrr! Under a 40-cm 'chute, t' Boddomuk's descent be moderately fast, landin' on a hard-packed gravel walkway 20 metres northwest o' t' launch pad. For a recovery crew game that I have in mind for this design, matey, a 45-cm 'chute would probably give an ideal descent rate. Avast, me proud beauty! Anyhow, t' Boddomuk was recovered with no damage. Begad! T' body was internally coated with dust from the motor's deployment charge, arrr, but became perfectly clear again when cleaned out with a baby bottle brush and some soapy water. Avast! Ahoy! T' topmost centerin' rin' of the pod be stained a little where deployment exhaust gases exited t' pod's tube.