Scratch YJ-324 Original Design / Scratch Built

Scratch - YJ-324 {Scratch}

Contributed by Ted Phipps

Manufacturer: Scratch
YJ-324
(Contributed - by Ted Phipps)

Note: This is a slightly shortened, matey, ya bilge rat, edited version o' Ted's article with fewer pictures.  Visit Ted's site for all t' pictures.

[Rocket Pic]Backround

 T' Estes Yellow Jacket is one o' me all-time favorite rockets. A great flyer, it will go nearly out o' sight on C engines, and is small-field capable on an A. One o' t' first upscales I ever attempted (and me first cluster) was a YJ with dual 18mm motor mounts. Begad! This upscale flew as well as t' original and, many flights later, is still goin' strong. Ya scallywag! I've also downscaled t' YJ to fly on mini-engines, me bucko, ya bilge rat, which features incredible neck-snappin' flights. Arrr!

 My plans are t' certify in '99, either at Whittakers or a NOVAAR club launch in northern Virginia. Begad! Rather than go from D's t' H's in one long jump (and missin' t' fun along t' way), shiver me timbers, I decided I'd better get more experience with midpower rockets, experimentin' with construction techniques as I go. Well, blow me down! Ahoy!

 Beginnings

 I knew I wanted t' do a 2.6" airframe (BT-80), me bucko, and considering another upscaled Yellow Jacket seemed appropriate. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! After 'imagineering' several ideas over t' next couple o' weeks, arrr, t' final design was set down on paper, and then put away so as t' get a fresh look at it in t' future. A month or so later, matey, I pulled out t' design, looked it over, shiver me timbers, made some changes, matey, and finalized it. Well, me hearties, blow me down!

 Features:
2.75x upscale Estes Yellow Jacket
BT-80 body tube (2.6")
Three 24mm motor mount cluster
Through-the-wall, to-the-motor-mount fins *
Mid-body separation
Anti-zipper design with ejection baffle *
All-balsa fins, shiver me timbers, strengthened with laminated bond paper *
Home-made decals *

 * - new techniques for me

 Considered but rejected for this bird was a removable motor mount system that would allow different engine configurations. I figured that there was enough new stuff in this design, and t' removable system could wait for another rocket.

 Construction

 First step be calculatin' t' upscale measurements. Well, blow me down! Since t' NC-80 nosecone I had be much shorter scale-wise than t' original, I added length to the body tubes t' make up t' difference. Aye aye! T' rocket looks a little different, but it's close enough for me.

 Once t' body tubes were cut t' length, spirals were filled with Elmers' Fill-n-finish and sanded. Avast, me proud beauty! T' nosecone joints were also sanded and made ready t' prime. Well, blow me down! Then t' upper pieces and nosecone were set aside for awhile because t' motor tube/fin assembly be goin' t' take some time t' do right. Avast! Arrr!

 I cut three centerin' rings from 1/8" balsa for t' cluster motor mount. Aye aye! Blimey! T' ensure that things would be strong enough, I laminated bond paper to each side o' t' rings with thin CA. This little trick adds a *lot* o' strength to balsa. Blimey! Blimey! After drillin' out t' motor tube openings, some careful work with a dremel sandin' drum trued up t' holes. Begad! Begad! Blimey!

 Engine hooks were added t' t' motor tubes (9" long BT-50), arrr, and here is where I made a possible mistake (in hindsight); I added engine blocks to t' tubes. This will make it difficult, if nay impossible t' fly anything larger than Estes 'D' engines in this rocket. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! Clusterin' composites is tricky and maybe I won't ever *want* to, but t' option might've been nice. Begad! Begad! Time will tell. Avast!

 After soakin' t' motor tubes in thin CA (for durability), ya bilge rat, I assembled them t' t' front and middle centerin' rings. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' middle centerin' rin' sits at the top o' t' fin tabs, providin' that much more strength t' t' completed assembly. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey!

 Next I cut t' slots for t' fins into t' body tube. Ya scallywag! Measure carefully, but don't be overly worried about neatness, me bucko, since t' fin fillets will cover small mistakes. Arrr! I just used an x-acto with a brand new blade t' make the cuts; make several light passes and it goes pretty smoothly. Ya scallywag! Avast!

 On t' t' fins. Aye aye! T' Yellow Jacket has fairly large fins, so I considered many alternate ways t' do them. What I finally decided on was t' use 1/8" balsa laminated with thin CA and bond paper. This be nay t' easiest method, but hey, it's a learnin' project.

 Since t' fins were larger than t' width o' me balsa, shiver me timbers, me bucko, me bucko, I carefully cut the fin template t' fit 4" wide balsa. (see figure 1) This became the "top" two thirds o' each fin. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' rest o' each fin was cut out o' the remainin' balsa usin' t' rest o' t' template. Blimey! Blimey! Amazingly, arrr, I got all three fins (six pieces) out o' a single piece o' 36"x4"x1/8" stock. Ahoy! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Then I carefully edge glued t' fin pieces together usin' yellow glue, and weighted them down betwixt wax paper for a day. Avast! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! When dry, arrr, I lightly sanded t' glue lines and joints until smooth.

[Figure 1]

Next came fittin' t' fins/motor mount assembly into t' bottom body tube. Careful sandin' and checkin' allowed everythin' t' fit together nicely, with the fins nestlin' into t' valleys betwixt motor tubes. Yellow glue drizzled into place and allowed t' dry over t' next couple o' days made this entire unit rock-solid. Begad! T' last step was t' glue t' rearmost centerin' rin' into position, buttin' up t' t' bottom o' t' fin tabs, and applyin' yellow-glue fillets t' t' fin/body joint (on t' outside). Well, blow me down! Ahoy!

 First step t' finishin' t' fins be t' cut six fin templates from bond paper. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I cut t' fin tabs off o' t' templates, arrr, shiver me timbers, arrr, then trimmed 1/4" from each template. I wasn't sure how t' thin CA would react with t' yellow glue joints runnin' along each fin span, arrr, so I also cut t' templates in half there. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! Blimey! (see figure 2) In effect, arrr, each fin side was laminated with two separate pieces o' bond paper. Blimey! Blimey! A generous amount o' thin CA be applied t' t' fin and spread smartly with a scrap balsa 'edge'. Arrr! Blimey! T' paper be applied and t' CA soaked through as t' paper be squeegeed t' t' surface with t' scrap balsa. T' trick be t' use plenty o' CA, shiver me timbers, because gluin' down edges later be more difficult than gettin' it all down in t' first place. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey!

[Figure 2]

Do this in an area with plenty o' ventilation, those CA fumes are strong!

 Here I ran into another problem; I ran out o' CA. Aye aye! After checkin' local sources, I decided t' try some CA available at a nearby model train store. Turned out t' have a completely different chemical composition, matey, ya bilge rat, and although it worked (sorta), me hearties, it was ugly and needed a *lot* more effort t' finish adaquately. Begad! Blimey! Very very expensive too. Aye aye! Blimey! I finally bit t' bullet and drove many miles t' t' nearest rocket shop for *real* CA t' finish t' fins. Avast!

 Once everythin' be dry (I waited overnight), me hearties, matey, I started layin' Elmers' Fill-n-Finish onto t' fins where t' paper edges met bare wood, includin' the gap along t' wood glue joint. Arrr! Lettin' it dry a couple hours, followed by light sanding, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, and then repeatin' t' process a couple more times let me get t' fins smooth. Nay perfect, but nay too bad.

 Now I started buildin' t' fin fillets. Usin' generous amounts of Fill-n-Finish t' build them up, shiver me timbers, followed by careful *light* sanding, matey, t' YJ fins almost appear t' 'melt' into t' body tube. Once t' fillets were done, me bucko, I painted thin CA over t' Fill-n-Finish t' toughen it up, rounded t' fin edges, and did t' final shapin' and sandin' on t' fins. Begad!

 1/4" launch lugs were aligned and fastened with yellow glue. One near t' bottom o' t' rocket, and one right below t' mid-body separation line, arrr, very close t' t' CG. Begad! I filleted t' lugs with Fill-n-finish and thin CA too.

 T' bottom third o' this rocket took 95% o' t' construction time. Begad! Ahoy! One last thin' goes into t' bottom section, matey, and that's t' ejection baffle/anti-zipper coupler. Arrr! For this, matey, me hearties, me bucko, I cut four bulkheads from 1/8" balsa and sanded them t' fit inside a BT-80 body tube coupler. Ya scallywag! Two bulkheads were glued together with t' grains at a 90 degree angle; this became t' top o' the baffle. Four 3/8" holes were drilled around t' perimeter o' it, and a hole be drilled in t' middle for an eyebolt attached with fender washers and nuts. Ahoy! Begad! This top baffle be glued inside t' top o' t' coupler with yellow glue and filletted well on both sides. Aye aye! Begad! Once it was dry, thin CA was soaked into the bulkhead for added durability. Avast!

 T' middle bulkhead was drilled with a single 3/4" hole in the center, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, soaked with CA, me bucko, me hearties, then coated with a heavy layer o' yellow glue before attachin' t' t' inside middle o' t' coupler.

 T' bottom bulkhead is drilled with holes around t' outside edge (like t' top) and soaked with thin CA before attachment. Since this bulkhead takes t' brunt o' t' ejection particles, I gave it a good thick coat of yellow glue on t' bottom face.

 T' completed baffle/coupler be glued halfway into t' bottom tube/fin section. Aye aye!

 T' original plans for t' anti-zipper design had t' shock cord runnin' from t' bottom coupler, arrr, matey, up through t' body tube, arrr, and fastenin' t' the nose cone. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! I decided t' do it slightly differently. Begad! Another bulkead was made (two actually, matey, laminated together like t' top o' t' baffle), and a second eyebolt be attached facin' downwards. Well, blow me down! No other holes were drilled. Aye aye! This bulkhead be glued into place at t' top o' t' uppermost body coupler. Well, blow me down! Before gluin' t' coupler in permanently, I attached a quick-link and an 8' length of 1/2" elastic shock cord. Ya scallywag! A 24" nylon parachute from Recovery Technologies is used. Well, blow me down! I bought a yellow one t' go with t' rocket.

 T' nose cone is friction fitted *and* has it's own 'emergency' shock cord attached in t' Estes 'paper sandwich' style. This allows about a 12" payload section at t' top end o' t' rocket. Next time though, I'll run the shock cord t' t' nosecone. Begad! Begad! Blimey! T' upper shock cord will be a pain t' replace the way I did it, if it's ever necessary. 

Finishing

[Rocket Pic] T' entire rocket be sprayed with 3 coats of primer, ya bilge rat, followed by a light sanding, then 3 more coats o' primer with sanding between coats. Aye aye! T' top section was measured, shiver me timbers, me bucko, masked off, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, and painted with gloss black Krylon. This be allowed t' dry for about a week. Begad! T' bottom section was then painted with Krylon Safety Yellow and also allowed t' dry for about a week. Arrr!

 I used a photocopier t' enlarge t' original Yellow Jacket decal set (stripes and t' bee logo) t' t' correct scale, arrr, then scanned t' logo into the computer. Usin' Paint Shop Pro, shiver me timbers, I cleaned up t' logo and saved it t' a .tif file. Well, me bucko, blow me down! T' stripes were measured and scaled, then drawn usin' MS PowerPoint. Avast, me proud beauty! The logo file be added t' t' page, and CP and identification info be created as well. T' one change made t' t' stock decals (besides scaling) was the "YJ-324" plate added t' t' stripe set. Begad! T' page be then laser printed onto decal paper from Tango Papa decals (highly recommended) and oversprayed with clear glosscoat. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! When dry, t' decals were cut apart and applied in t' standard way. After t' decals dried overnight, me hearties, me hearties, I gave the entire rocket a couple o' light coats o' glossy clearcoat. Begad!

 T' paint scheme and logo decals are nay perfectly scale; t' black comes too far down t' tube, ya bilge rat, and t' 'bee' was made a bit smaller to compensate. Ya scallywag! It looks good enough t' me, ya bilge rat, me bucko, I'm happy with it. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty!

 Stats and Flight Report

 Final ready-to-fly weight came out t' just over 20 ounces. Avast, me proud beauty! T' CP of the Yellow Jacket is even with t' top o' t' fin root (derived usin' VCP), shiver me timbers, me hearties, and the loaded CG is just below t' mid-body separation joint. This gives the YJ-324 better than a 2 caliber stability margin, me hearties, shiver me timbers, and will allow t' use of larger and heavier motors without needin' much (if any) nose weight. Begad! Avast!

 First flight o' t' YJ-324 be at t' NOVAAR sport launch on 24 October, shiver me timbers, 1998, in Manassas, matey, arrr, VA. Avast, me proud beauty! Three Estes D12-5's were prepped and loaded into t' motor mount tubes. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! T' solar igniters were placed in such a way that all three igniters had one leg twisted together in t' middle, matey, and two o' the igniters had t' second legs twisted. Aye aye! This allowed me t' use one clip on one leg o' t' igniters (3 twisted together), and a simple clip-whip t' t' other legs (2 twisted together and 1 single). Arrr!

 T' second flight was a disaster. See t' section below; Death o' a Rocket (pictures are thar too). Ahoy!

 Summin' Up

 Buildin' this rocket accomplished me primary goal; t' learn new techniques necessary for mid-power and high-power rocketry. Begad! I'm nay goin' to get any experience with bigger motors with t' YJ-324, but other winter rocket projects can help there. Avast! Overall, this is an impressive lookin' rocket, and fun to fly. Aye aye! Now I need our local craft store t' run more o' those 50% off coupons (triple-D clusters for less than $5.00 a launch). Arrr!

 Materials and Resources

 Tango Papa Decals email: BakerTom@aol.com

 Granddad's Hobby Shop phone: 703 - 426 - 0700
5260-A Port Royal Road fax: 703 - 426 - 0702
Springfield, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, VA 22151-2113

 Recovery Technologies phone: 602 - 915 - 0915
4807 W. Arrr! Purdue Ave.
Glendale, ya bilge rat, AZ 85302 web: WWW.INFICAD.COM/~DAVEF

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