Scratch Vega 1 Original Design / Scratch Built
Scratch - Vega 1 {Scratch}
Contributed by Leonard Loranger
T' Vega 1 is a high performance aft engine boost glider designed for dramatic flights on Estes B6-2, arrr, arrr, C6-3, me bucko, ya bilge rat, and C6-5. Begad! With its sweptback wings and long length, Vega 1 will fly straight as an arrow. Begad! Introducin' a slight spin will also ensure t' model will be stable. Avast! Begad! T' balsa that will be used for this project will be out o' rigid 1/8" thick C-grain balsa and is heavier compared t' A and B-grain balsa. Blimey! A quick search on t' internet may help you t' find more information about t' different varieties o' balsa. Construction: Instruction Sheets: In addition t' t' materials listed on Sheet 1 o' 5, you will need t' followin' items: Read t' directions a couple o' times and become familiar with t' different drawings and parts before you assemble t' Vega 1. Page 1 o' 4 is an assembly drawing. Avast! After you have cut all balsa parts be sure you have t' following, Start t' control tabs by lookin' at t' detail drawin' on Sheet 3 o' 5. Pre drill and thread t' holes before cuttin' them out. Cut t' control tabs from 1/8" thick hard balsa, and t' bases out o' 1/4" X 1/4" X 2 1/4" long spruce or bass wood. T' avoid splitting, Test fit t' glide control bolts t' make sure they are nay too tight. Begad! Blimey! If they are t' loose, you may have t' fill in t' holes with glue and trial fit again. Avast, me proud beauty! Carefully cut and glue each assembly makin' sure you have a left and right. Begad! A scroll saw will cut these parts easily. Begad! Blimey! When finished both assemblies, me hearties, you should have a right and left part. Fuselage Sometimes a boost glider nay trimmed correctly can result in a fast spiral glide down. Usin' an Estes BT-20 body tube by itself will nay be strong enough durin' some o' these landings. Begad! Blimey! T' thin walled tube has a tendency t' wrinkle. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Reinforcin' t' tube with 2 oz glass cloth and resin is an easy way o' fixin' this problem. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Another alternative is t' buy heavier walled tubin' if you can find some. Begad! Blimey! A nosecone will have t' match t' tube or you can turn one out on a lathe or drill press. Visit a local hardware store and pick up some ½"diameter copper tubing. Ya scallywag! T' tubin' should be ½" diameter on t' inside and 5/8" diameter on t' outside. T' copper tubin' need only be about 24-30" long. Use t' copper tubin' as a mandrel for handlin' t' Estes BT-20 tubin' while layin' on t' fiberglass and resin. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Apply two layers o' car wax on t' copper tubin' and buff off after. Avast! Blimey! This will keep any extra resin and fiberglass from stickin' t' t' copper mandrel. Begad! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Polyester resin used for auto and boat repairs works fine. Avast! Blimey! A local hobby store will carry 2 oz glass cloth or you may need t' look on t' internet. Blimey! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Before mixin' t' resin, follow t' mixin' instructions and make sure you wear safety glasses and latex gloves t' protect deadlights and skin. Blimey! Blimey! Always work outside if you can where thar be plenty o' ventilation. Start by passin' an 18" Estes BT-20 tube over t' copper mandrel and tapin' both ends in place with maskin' tape. Aye aye! Cut out a piece o' 2.5"x 12" wide glass cloth t' size makin' sure that you will have enough t' cover t' entire BT-20 tube with some overlap lengthwise. Mixin' resin and hardener with paper cups (the ones used for hot drinks) works well. Arrr! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Mix t' resin and hardener together per directions and apply a thin coat with a small brush on t' t' BT-20 body tube. Arrr! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Blimey! Hold one end o' t' copper tube while t' other end is on t' ground. Avast! Blimey! Place t' fiberglass lengthwise on t' tube. Dab a little resin on t' brush and brush out any dry spots on t' cloth. Begad! Be careful t' work out any bubbles that develop. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' white cloth color should change t' a transparent color when wet with resin. Arrr! Holdin' t' copper tube at one end, continue layin' t' rest o' t' cloth on all t' away around until it overlaps t' beginning. Ya scallywag! Use t' brush t' wet out t' rest o' t' cloth. Begad! If t' cloth at any time seems t' become tacky or starts pullin' away from t' tube, me bucko, arrr, stop. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! Blimey! T' resin may be startin' t' set up. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! Blimey! If this happens, stop any more work for another 24 hours until t' resin cures. Blimey! Begad! Blimey! T' workin' time with polyester or epoxy resins may only be 5 or 10 minutes or so dependin' on temperature and humidity. Arrr! Blimey! Workin' with fiberglass and resin becomes easier with time and practice. Sand any extra resin away from t' tube with 220-grit sandpaper. Avast! Use a sandin' block t' accomplish. Begad! Start by sandin' t' tube lengthwise carefully hittin' all t' high spots and nay t' sand thru t' fiberglass. Blimey! Another way t' get a smooth finish is t' sand in 45-degree directions along t' axis o' t' tube. Arrr! Ahoy! Roll t' tube at t' same time while sandin' with t' block. Blimey! This method o' sandin' follows t' path o' t' spiral wind in t' tube. Avast, me proud beauty! This will give you an even finish all t' way around. Avast, me proud beauty! Mixin' up and brushin' on a second thin coat o' resin will fill in any low spots left behind. Ya scallywag! Remember, sandin' most o' t' resin will help t' save weight. Repeat this process until you are happy with t' finish. Blimey! Dent and fill auto primer can help with fillin' any small imperfections in t' tube finish. After t' tube is done, cut t' tube t' a length o' 9 ½". Cut out t' body tube-markin' guide in drawin' 5 o' 5. Begad! Wrap this markin' guide tightly around t' body tube. Mark out t' centerline positions o' t' launch lug, shiver me timbers, control tab, shiver me timbers, wing, matey, etc, matey, with an L shaped piece o' metal or smooth door jam t' finish drawin' lines lengthwise on t' tube. Look at t' 18mm motor block detail shown on drawin' 4 o' 5. Cut a spent 18 mm motor t' a length o' 1" and glue a 1/8" x ¾" dia plywood plate at one end. Reinforce t' plywood plate on t' inside with more yellow glue. Begad! Blimey! Place a little dab o' glue at t' end o' a cotton swab. Blimey! Blimey! Reach through t' rearward end o' t' BT-20 body tube 3" forward and make a circular pattern with t' cotton swab. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Be very careful nay t' get any o' t' glue near t' rearward end o' t' body tube. Insert t' motor block with t' plywood plate facin' t' aft in t' end o' t' body tube. Then, shiver me timbers, usin' spent engine casing, me bucko, push it forward until t' end o' t' engine casin' is just t' even with t' rearward end o' t' body tube. Arrr! Blimey! Caution: once you have inserted t' nose block far enough t' come in contact with t' glue t' nay allow it t' stop until it is in t' proper position. Arrr! Some glues dry very quickly, shiver me timbers, and stoppin' for as long as a second may cause it t' freeze in t' wrong place. Remove t' spent engine casin' as soon as t' nose block is in place. Nose cone construction Purchasin' BT-20 size nose cones or usin' a lathe t' turn down a nose cone is another avenue. Win' construction Cut out all t' templates from Sheet 2 o' 5. Avast! Match t' lines for t' right win' and tape them together. Ya scallywag! 1/8" x 3" wide, me bucko, c-grain balsa should be large enough t' fit t' whole win' template in place. Blimey! Blimey! Follow t' direction o' t' grain as shown. Begad! Trace t' rest o' t' templates on t' 1/8" rigid C-grain balsa. After cuttin' a left and right wing, sand a rounded edge on t' front and back o' both wings t' give a smooth airfoil. Begad! Begad! Know be t' time t' mark location centers for all four hinges for t' win' and t' elevon. Aye aye! Let us look at t' hinge Dremel slot detail on Sheet 3 o' 5. Begad! Blimey! Usin' t' Dremel #420 cut off wheel, shiver me timbers, set t' wheel in t' drill press chuck and raise t' drill press table with t' win' on it so that t' cut off wheel is half way up t' thickness o' t' wing. This will take some adjustin' o' t' table. Ahoy! Blimey! Then usin' a small round sandin' tool make a small 1/8" hole where t' center mark locations are. Then proceed t' cut out a slot as far as t' cut off wheel will allow. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' 1/8" hole should leave enough room for t' plastic hinge t' slide in t' t' cut out slot. If it still does nay seat all t' way in, then cut a little bit o' t' square edges off on each corner. Repeat this process 8 times. Rough up t' hinges with 60 grit sand paper and glue all four hinges into place on t' wing. When t' glue is dry, attach and glue t' elevons in place. Sand t' elevons t' shape as shown in t' drawings. Win' and fuselage assembly T' amount o' dihedral angle is very critical, (by t' dihedral angle, we refer t' t' angle made by t' wings, me bucko, and t' body tube where t' wings point upward rather than straight out. Begad! Avast! Drawin' on page 1 o' 5 clearly shows this angle on t' aft view. Blimey! Aye aye! T' outer edges o' t' wings are even with t' top surface o' t' BT-20 body tube. T' followin' method will make t' right amount o' dihedral angle. Place t' root ends o' t' wings tightly together and secure with two strips o' tape. Avast! Arrr! Put a line o' yellow glue down t' win' centerline on t' body tube and then lay t' wings on top. Align t' root edges o' both wings on t' body tube. Avast! T' trailin' edge o' t' wings is t' be even with t' aft o' t' BT-20 body tube. Begad! Press t' glue joint firmly t' be sure t' wings are set evenly and tightly against t' BT-20 body tube. Well, blow me down! While t' model is drying, the wingtips and t' complete length o' t' BT-20 body tube should be lyin' flat against t' table. Use small weights t' accomplish this. Do nay handle t' model until this glue joint is completely dry overnight. Reinforce t' BT-20 body and win' with another glue joint on both sides. Ahoy! Blimey! This should help t' win' from poppin' off after some hard landings. Rudders Sheet 2 o' 5 show t' rudder patterns. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! Cut t' rudders out o' 1/8" C grain balsa. Blimey! Make sure you follow t' grain direction. Glue 2 o' t' rudders by thar root edge. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! Use maskin' tape t' keep together. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Both rudders should be sweepin' backward when glued together. Use t' rudder template guide t' get t' 120-degree angle needed for spacing. Arrr! Repeat t' process for t' other rudder assembly. Set these rudder assemblies t' dry overnight. Ya scallywag! Before gluin' t' rudders on t' win' tips, ya bilge rat, make sure t' win' tip surfaces are parallel with t' main body tube. Aye aye! Use a small bubble level bought at any hardware store t' check for this. Sheet 5 o' 5 shows a full size drawin' o' one. This one be purchased at Home Depot and mounted on a small piece o' scrap wood for more accuracy. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Place t' model so that it will nay move around when takin' these level measurements. Ahoy! Place t' bubble on t' BT-20 body tube and level it. Now check t' win' tip and make sure that it is level. If it is nay level then some sandin' will be required until it is. Begad! Make sure nay t' take too much off or one win' will be shorter than t' other. Ya scallywag! Repeat this process for t' other side. Begad! Glue t' rudder assemblies on t' win' tips usin' t' rudder template guide. Almost finished Install t' control tabs followin' t' markings on t' side o' t' fuselage. Aye aye! Lookin' at Sheet 1 o' 5 will give you a good idea where t' place them. Glue t' launch lug and spacer together as an assembly then place along line as shown on Sheet 1 o' 5. Avast! Cut a length o' .04 thick wire t' shape as shown on Sheet 4 o' 5. Ya scallywag! Adjust t' wire until thar be 8 degrees o' downward deflection. Run t' elastic thread through t' holes drilled in t' trailin' edge o' t' elevons. Blimey! Well, blow me down! Tie t' end o' thread with a knot large enough nay t' pass thru t' hole. Begad! Make t' thread long enough so that it can pass around t' plastic bolts and in front o' t' launch lug spacer yet have enough tension t' get t' elevons t' snap up once t' motor pops out. Avast, me proud beauty! Balance t' model on a ruler t' find t' center o' gravity. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! T' model should balance 1 3/4"-1 7/8" from aft o' tube. Begad! If it does nay then add more weight t' t' nose by drillin' a small hole and addin' a steel eye screw with bolt nuts for weight. Let’s go outside and test this thing Make sure your model balances evenly left t' right. Avast, me proud beauty! You can check this by balancin' a ruler down t' center o' t' body tube lengthwise. If t' model is a little heavier on one side than t' other, me bucko, arrr, compensate by addin' a little weight t' t' opposite side. Apply a little more glue for reinforcement or clay t' t' side that is lighter. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Trimmin' t' glider will be much easier if t' model balances evenly from left t' right. Aye aye! T' glidin' characteristics o' t' Vega 1 can change by turnin' t' glide adjustin' screws. It is best t' determine first t' proper settin' t' get a straight flight. Ya scallywag! Prevent damage t' t' model by findin' a tall grassy area t' hand launch. Blimey! Ahoy! T' test t' glide, grasp t' model by t' fuselage body and Turnin' t' adjustin' screw counter clockwise will accomplish this. Well, blow me down! Turnin' t' adjustin' screws in ¼ or ½ turn increments can make small accurate changes in flight. If you want t' model t' turn left repeat t' same procedure for t' left elevon. Avast! Well, blow me down! Turnin' t' adjustin' screw 1/2 t' one complete turn creates a close circle and fast recovery. On windy days (10-15 mph winds), it is best t' set t' glide for a fast recovery as described above. Begad! This be t' keep your glider from landin' t' far way from t' launch pad area. Up up and away!!!!!! Vega 1 requires one Estes C6-3 or C6-5 motor. This model can launch from a standard 3/16" x 36" launch rod. Ya scallywag! When insertin' t' motor make sure that t' right elevon deflects down. Begad! T' left elevon may deflect up a little bit; this should nay be a problem. Avast! Aye aye! You can use t' 8-degree pattern guide on Sheet 4 o' 5 t' double check t' right elevon alignment. Avast, me proud beauty! Place t' right elevon angle guide as shown in Sheet 4of 5. Your only lookin' for t' front surface o' t' elevon part t' line up, shiver me timbers, nay t' tapered end. Begad! Hook up t' igniters and launch. Arrr! Begad! Watch t' boost glider t' see how it performs. If t' model turns steeply left t' right, shiver me timbers, remember t' go over t' adjustment features t' correct t' flight. After a while, you will get a feel for what t' model is doing. Begad! Please email me if you have any questions or comments you would like t' make. My email address is draftsman8384@yahoo.com Summary:
Brief:
Rear engine boost glider with high altitude performance. Avast, me proud beauty! Rugged and built t' perform even on windy days.
part o' t' front win' and throw it through t' air into t' wind. Ya scallywag! If t' model nose-dives, me bucko, adjust t' elevons so that they pitch up. Aye aye! Turn both glide control-adjustin' screws so that t' elevons move up. If t' model stalls, reverse t' process. Arrr! Begad! Repeat this testin' and adjustin' until t' model glides straight ahead when thrown. T' model should glide for about 15-20 feet. Begad! T' set t' glider for a slight right turn, arrr, adjust t' right elevon so that it sits a little higher than t' left one.
Build it and you will nay be disappointed.
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