Buildin' T' Gension (rhymes with tension)

Overview:

This article describes t' construction o' T' Gension, a scale model o' an Ion Powered Generation Starship. It features a 24mm motor mount, rin' fin, squared off airframe, and a bulbous nosecone tipped with a clear plastic dome. Arrr!

T' Gension is a hypothetical interstellar ship carryin' a community o' 500 travelers on their multi-generation voyage. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! T' ion drive is constantly acceleratin' t' ship at 1/6 Earth Standard Gravity, matey, me bucko, providin' t' community with a feelin' o' solid ground under their feet. A strong electromagnetic field generated betwixt t' upper and lower rings o' t' drive structure accelerates the ions. T' drive generates a stream o' energetic particles, which are hazardous t' t' travelers. Aye aye! Avast! T' protect t' inhabitants, t' drive is kept far behind t' residential section by an extended framework o' girders. Blimey! Begad! Extensive radiation hardened inhabitable space is available within t' forward section. At t' very top o' t' ship is an open green space, me hearties, under a transparent dome. This allows t' inhabitants t' enjoy wide-open spaces with an unparalleled, perpetually star spangled sky. Aye aye! Several generations will be born, shiver me timbers, start their families, arrr, arrr, grow old, and pass on before T' Gension reaches its destination at a distant star system.

Bill o' Materials:

T' followin' materials are needed t' construct T' Gension.

• 18" 24mm motor mount
• paper towel tube (for squared off superstructure)
• thin plywood from Clementine fruit crate (for flat fins)
• heat resistant plastic microwave dinner bowl (for rin' fin)
• 2 black plastic condiment cups (for gas cylinder mounting)
• scrap o' foam swim noodle (to fashion gas cylinders)
• single servin' plastic milk bottle (for bulbous nosecone)
• plastic dome from gumball machine
• fishin' leader and shock cord
• used 24mm motor casing
• short section o' BT70 tube for rin' above fins

Fin Assembly:

T' fin rin' is made from a heat resistant black plastic bowl that originally contained a microwaveable dinner entry. Usin' a razor knife, slice off t' bowl rim, and t' bottom, leavin' t' side of t' bowl for use as t' rin' fin. Ya scallywag! Placin' a 24mm motor casin' in t' center of t' ring, arrr, matey, ya bilge rat, fashion cardboard templates for t' four fins. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! T' specific mount angle will be determined by t' size o' t' ring, me bucko, and how far below t' fin root you want t' rin' t' mount. T' fin should initially reach all t' way to the bottom edge o' t' ring, me hearties, shiver me timbers, arrr, but that will be adjusted in a subsequent step. Arrr! Begad!

Usin' your preferred fin stock make four identical fins. Avast! My choice was to use thin, 3 layer plywood from a Clementine fruit crate. Surface mount these four fins equally spaced approximately one inch up from t' bottom end o' the 24mm motor tube. Ahoy! Aye aye! I used yellow glue for attachment and fillets.

Slide t' rin' down over t' motor tube until it rests evenly on t' leading edges o' t' four fins. Mark t' fins where t' upper edge o' t' rin' rests against them. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Dependin' upon your choice o' fin and rin' material, you may be able t' simply glue t' rin' on t' slanted edge o' t' fins. Begad!

After one hard knock, arrr, shiver me timbers, I found that a more structural interlock be needed to keep t' slick plastic rin' firmly attached. Begad! T' achieve this interlock, matey, notch each fin a short distance below where t' rin' originally rested on t' fins. T' rin' can then be pushed down until it snaps into t' fin notches. Aye aye! To further interlock t' fins, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, leave a tab at t' fin tip that extends through slots cut into t' ring. I used a Dremel cuttin' wheel t' notch t' fins and cut slots in t' ring. Aye aye! Begad! A Dremel sandin' drum was used t' grind t' fin tips flush with t' surface o' t' ring.

Paint t' lower body tube and fins white before attachin' t' fin ring.

When t' tabs are done right, glue is almost an afterthought. I hedged my bets and used Gorilla Glue t' bond t' fins t' t' ring. A black marker pen can be used t' blend t' fin tabs with t' large fin ring.

Airframe Assembly:

A cardboard paper towel tube is used t' fashion t' desired square framework airframe. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Start by crushin' it flat. Reshape it t' an approximate cylinder, rotate it a quarter turn, and flatten it again t' form four creases that run the full length o' t' tube. Usin' those four creases, form t' tube into a square superstructure. Avast!

Mark t' dimensions o' t' square superstructure cross section on a scrap of leftover fin material. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! Cut a hole centered in t' marked square t' fit over the 24mm body tube. Well, blow me down! Cut out t' square bulkhead and glue it inside t' top o' the square superstructure. Aye aye! A simple method t' give t' impression o' t' framework on t' superstructure is t' outline it with pencil, then paint it with white acrylic. Blimey! Begad! Use more pencil t' create faux shadows that imply depth o' structure for t' framework.

Slide t' open end o' t' decorated superstructure down over t' motor mount tube until a corner rests at each leadin' fin edge. Ya scallywag! Slot t' bottom o' each superstructure corner so that it slides down over t' leadin' edge o' t' fins. Glue t' superstructure t' t' four fins.

To form t' small rin' at t' base o' t' superstructure, slide a short section o' large diameter body tube over t' superstructure until it rests on the leadin' edges o' t' fins. Slot t' body tube so that it slides down over the fin edges.

Foamin' Within t' Superstructure around t' Fins:

To further strengthen t' fins and airframe assembly, ya bilge rat, use foamed Gorilla Glue. Aye aye! First, use Estes waddin' t' block up t' space betwixt t' motor tube and superstructure. Blimey! This is t' keep t' glue from runnin' too far up into the superstructure. Aye aye! Tuck t' waddin' into t' superstructure space so that an area for foamin' exists at t' very end. Avast! Begad! Drizzle Gorilla Glue into this space, and lightly moisten. Ya scallywag! T' water causes t' Gorilla Glue t' foam up t' several times its original volume, me bucko, while bindin' together t' motor tube, arrr, arrr, me hearties, fins, and superstructure.

Mount t' Gas Cylinder Housings, me hearties, matey, Recover Harness, and Foam Cylinders:

To provide some modelin' details o' t' engineerin' bits at t' top o' the framework, I used a pair o' lightweight black plastic condiment cups, and positioned them t' constrain four foam cylinders equally spaced around the motor tube. Cut a 24mm hole in t' bottom o' each cup. Glue one cup base t' the square bulkhead at t' top o' t' superstructure.

Before proceeding, loop a steel fishin' leader around t' outside motor tube, me hearties, ya bilge rat, and route it up into t' motor tube through a slot cut in t' motor tube. This will provide a mountin' point for t' elastic portion o' t' recovery harness.

Fashion small foam cylinders by pushin' a section o' copper pipe through a foam swim noodle. T' foam "core sample" within t' copper pipe can be cut into four lengths. Aye aye! A short blast from a heatgun can be used t' tidy up any frayed edges o' t' foam surface. Glue t' cylinders around t' motor tube inside t' condiment cup. Avast, me proud beauty! Slide t' second condiment cup, wide mouth down, matey, over the upper ends o' t' foam cylinders.

To help hold t' upper condiment cup in place, and t' dress up t' slightly ragged hole cut in t' cup base, glue a short section o' body tube that slides over t' 24mm motor tube and presses against t' upper cup base.

Constructin' t' Nose Cone and Dome:

Usin' a single servin' plastic milk bottle, cut a hole in t' screw on lid and press fit a used 24mm motor casin' into it. Ya scallywag! T' motor casin' forms the nosecone shoulder. Ahoy! Ahoy! Glue t' casin' in place so t' nozzle will be positioned inside t' milk bottle when t' cap is screwed on. Avast! Increase t' opacity o' the translucent bottle by spray-paintin' t' inside of t' milk bottle. Aye aye! By paintin' t' inside o' t' bottle, thar be no concern with future rough handlin' scuffin' t' paint.

T' nosecone dome can be created by gluin' a section o' a gumball machine toy packagin' t' t' top o' t' nose cone (base o' t' milk bottle). Avast! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Before gluin' on t' dome, add details o' t' community life under t' dome t' the base o' t' milk bottle. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I used an aerial photo o' a miniature golf course to present a green space under t' dome. Well, blow me down! Blimey! A sparkplug tip was bolted t' t' top of the nosecone t' help hold t' laminated greenspace printout in place. Aye aye! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! A plastic disk be glued t' t' spark plug tip t' serve as a scale deflector dish that protects t' community from incomin' cosmic rays.T' dome was then hotglued to the milk bottle and laminated printout.

Recovery Harness Installation:

A length o' elastic be attached t' t' top o' t' fishin' leader, fed through t' nosecone casin' nozzle, arrr, and knotted inside t' nosecone. Aye aye! A parachute is attached t' a loop tied in t' elastic. Avast!

Flight Prep:

No positive motor retention was designed into this rocket, though a clip could be easily added under t' superstructure if desired. Ahoy! T' motor tube that extends below t' edge o' t' fin roots allows for simple maskin' tape retention. Begad! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! T' lack o' a thrust rin' in t' motor mount allows use o' E or D engines, shiver me timbers, without need for a length adaptor. Arrr! Smaller engines can be press fit into a used 24mm casing.

T' bulbous nosecone makes it necessary t' put t' mid-frame launch lug on a standoff. A short length o' foamboard, arrr, glued through t' superstructure t' the central motor tube makes for a sufficiently rigid lug mount. Begad! T' other lug is attached t' one o' t' fins.

A small amount o' cellulose insulation waddin' is used t' protect t' chute.

Flights and Recovery:

Thinkin' this was a relatively light rocket, ya bilge rat, I first tried a checkout flight on an A8-3. Blimey! Begad! What was I thinking?! Big mistake. Avast, me proud beauty! While it had a stable boost, me hearties, shiver me timbers, the extremely draggy design kept t' altitude quite low, shiver me timbers, and t' rocket backslid to the ground. Ya scallywag! It ejected as it be fallin' over. Blimey! T' rin' and one fin were knocked loose, ya bilge rat, me bucko, shiver me timbers, which is why I re-engineered t' rin' attachment with notches and tabs and fin foaming. Mark that a stable flight and too long a delay…

T' second flight was on a B6-4. Arrr! Blimey! This was a better flight, boosting straight, but t' altitude was still unsatisfyingly low. T' rocket came down nose first with t' ejection just before touchdown, ya bilge rat, and no useful deployment of the parachute. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' dome and re-engineered fins and rin' took it in stride. Arrr! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey!

Flight 1	Flight 2

A third flight be on an E9-6 later that day. Begad! This be a great boost, arrow straight and t' several hundred feet. Ahoy! T' design was still so draggy that the rocket be well on its way down at ejection. Aye aye! T' recovery stripped one shroud line, but t' rocket landed with no damage.

A third launch event took place t' continue t' search for t' perfect engine for T' Gension. Well, blow me down! Avast! Blimey! A C11-3 be chosen as a compromise o' long boost and short delay. Blimey! This flight was t' best yet, boostin' straight, with ejection near apogee for a damage free recovery.