Scratch Night Hawk Original Design / Scratch Built

Scratch - Night Hawk {Scratch}

Contributed by Donald Besaw Jr

Manufacturer: Scratch
(Contributed - by Donald Besaw Jr - 08/01/01)

Rocket PicBrief:
This is a rocket that I designed for small fields. Arrr! Ahoy! It is single staged, me bucko, matey, flies on Estes A10-3T motors t' about 200 feet and uses a streamer for recovery.

Construction:
Materials required:

  • 2 Estes BT-20 body tubes
  • 2 Estes NC-20 nose cones (Yankee Style)
  • 1 Estes NC-20 nose cone (Vikin' Style)
  • 1 Estes Mini Motor Mount Kit or make your own.
  • 1 sheet o' medium 1/16 or 3/32 balsa for fins (your choice)
  • 1 standard launch lug
  • 1 shock cord mount
  • 1 shock cord about 2 t' 3 feet long
  • 1 streamer
  • 1 pack clay nose weight possibly

Optional Parts:

  • 1 Estes BT-20 tube coupler
  • 1 Piece balsa cut t' fit inside coupler
  • 1 small eye bolt

This rocket is fairly easy t' build, however I would rate it a skill level 2 project. Begad! If you've built several Estes Beta kits, matey, you should have no problems. Supplies Required:

  • White or yellow glue
  • Hobby knife with several #11 blades
  • Sandpaper #320-400 grit
  • Maskin' Tape
  • Pencil
  • Ruler
  • Sandin' Sealer (optional)
  • Automotive Primer (white or gray) (recommended)
  • Spray Enamel (your choice)

Start by cuttin' two 4/5/8 sections from one tube and sand t' cut ends even. Blimey! Blimey! These are now your side pods. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' fins will be attached t' these later. Now cut t' main tube t' a length o' about 14 inches and sand t' ends even. Well, blow me down! Blimey!

Optional Step for dual recovery: Cut t' main tube in half and sand t' ends even. Arrr! Begad! Now glue t' coupler halfway into t' upper tube. After t' glue dries, cut a bulkhead t' fit inside t' coupler. Avast, me proud beauty! After t' glue dries, me bucko, carefully screw a small eye bolt into t' center o' t' bulkhead. Well, blow me down! Begad!

Glue t' side pods one at a time with t' ends flush with t' end o' the main tube. Blimey! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Once t' glue is dry, ya bilge rat, you can apply glue fillets t' t' side pods. Make sure t' fill as much o' t' gaps as possible.

Fin PatternYou may want t' cut out your fins at this time. Arrr! Avast! Make six fins with a 1 9/16 inch long root edge, ya bilge rat, a 1 3/4 inch long leadin' edge, shiver me timbers, a 1 inch trailin' edge, matey, and a 1 1/2 inch bottom edge. Take a piece o' sandpaper and stack sand t' fins t' size. Arrr! Begad! Now sand t' leading and trailin' edges round. Begad! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down!

Assemble your motor mount at this time. After t' glue is dry, shiver me timbers, insert it with t' motor tube flush with t' body tube.

You may attach t' fins at this time. Ahoy! Three fins are attached t' each side pod at an angle o' 90 degrees apart like a typical four fin design. Avast! Heres a tip to make for an easier attachment. Apply a film o' glue t' t' root edge o' a fin, ya bilge rat, let dry for a minute or two, apply another film o' glue then attach. Believe me, matey, this works. Blimey! Now apply fillets t' each fin. I recommend three fillets per fin. Aye aye!

Cut a standard launch lug into two 1/2 inch pieces. Attach one t' t' bottom of t' body tube flush with t' end. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Attach t' other one about 7 1/2 from the other one then align them with a launch rod. Aye aye! Begad! Blimey! If you opted for a dual recovery, apply t' last one flush with t' bottom o' t' upper tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! Blimey! After t' glue dries, apply fillets at each lug. Blimey! Blimey! I recommend about two fillets per lug. Ahoy! Blimey! Blimey!

Cut yourself a shock cord mount from computer printer paper or typin' paper. I do nay recommend notebook paper. Arrr! I have used this method on all o' me scratch designs and it hasn't failed yet. Avast! Avast!

You will need a shock cord at least 2 feet long. Now assemble t' mount in the traditional manner. Avast! Once t' glue has dried, shiver me timbers, glue t' mount at least 1/2 an inch from t' top o' t' tube. Ahoy!

Now is a good time t' test fit your nose cones. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Blimey! You want a nice snug fit. Arrr! Well, blow me down! Blimey! If they are too loose apply maskin' tape at t' shoulders or glue them in place after t' model has been balanced and painted. Avast! Blimey!

Rocket Pic

Now is an excellent time t' balance t' model. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Balance t' model on a straight edge or counter-top. Ahoy! When t' model hangs level draw a mark at that spot. Arrr! Ahoy! Blimey! Now tie a six t' eight foot strin' t' that mark. Arrr! Blimey! Blimey! Swin' t' model around you and note t' results. Well, blow me down! Blimey! If t' model flies straight its fine. Avast, me proud beauty! If it flops or wobbles irregularly, ya bilge rat, chances are that you will need nose weight. Begad! My model required nose weight. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Add enough weight until t' model balances out. Ahoy! Aye aye! Blimey! That should do it. Ya scallywag! Avast! Blimey!

Now you are ready t' finish t' model. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr!

Finishing:
Start by sandin' t' model smooth. Ahoy! Aye aye! Apply sandin' sealer if desired. Begad! Sand between coats. Arrr! Well, blow me down! Now spray t' model with automotive primer. Well, blow me down! Sand any imperfections. Begad! Then apply another coat. Sand if needed. Now go ahead with your planned color scheme. Begad! After t' paint has dried, you may attach t' streamer. An easier way is t' tie a six inch strin' t' t' streamer then attach that to the nose cone insert or t' eye bolt. Avast! Now lets go t' t' field and see how she flies.

Flight:
If built stock, t' only motor that I recommend be t' Estes A10-3T. This motor gives t' model a nice boost and ejection usually occurs right at apogee. I used friction fit retention on me model and it worked perfectly. Ahoy! For my flights, I used t' Estes A10-3T motor and two squares o' recovery waddin' to protect t' streamer. Blimey! All three flights were perfect and straight with a little spin but for me that added t' t' excitement. Avast, me proud beauty! T' model comes down very nicely with t' streamer. Arrr! I used t' dual recovery method. Begad! Avast! My model bounces on landing but with all t' fillets that I applied, ya bilge rat, it hasn't sustained any damage.

Summary:
When I designed this rocket and after flight testing, me goal be t' share this design with others. I really have enjoyed this model from plannin' t' design to pushin' t' launch button for t' first launch.

Main PROS: Small, extremely easy t' transport, flies on low cost mini motors, five bucks for four flights is nay bad at all. Flies great on small fields. Blimey! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty!

Main CONS: A lot o' components are required but if you buy an Estes Designers Special package, arrr, you will get all t' components except t' main nose cone and t' motor kit but you can easily buy these at any hobby shop.

Other:
I also feel that t' rocket could be modified t' fly on standard 18mm motors or fly on three mini motors but watch out. Begad! Also, arrr, shiver me timbers, use 3/32 fin material if you try this. Also, matey, more nose weight may be required.

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