Manufacturer: | Scratch |
Brief:
This is a rocket that I designed for small fields. It is single staged, me hearties, shiver me timbers, flies
on Estes A10-3T motors t' about 200 feet and uses a streamer for recovery.
Construction:
Materials required:
Optional Parts:
This rocket is fairly easy t' build, however I would rate it a skill level 2 project. Begad! If you've built several Estes Beta kits, arrr, you should have no problems. Supplies Required:
Start by cuttin' two 4/5/8 sections from one tube and sand t' cut ends even. Arrr! Begad! These are now your side pods. Begad! T' fins will be attached t' these later. Now cut t' main tube t' a length o' about 14 inches and sand t' ends even.
Optional Step for dual recovery: Cut t' main tube in half and sand t' ends even. Begad! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Now glue t' coupler halfway into t' upper tube. After t' glue dries, cut a bulkhead t' fit inside t' coupler. Arrr! Blimey! After t' glue dries, carefully screw a small eye bolt into t' center o' t' bulkhead. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey!
Glue t' side pods one at a time with t' ends flush with t' end o' the main tube. Ya scallywag! Once t' glue is dry, you can apply glue fillets t' t' side pods. Make sure t' fill as much o' t' gaps as possible. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down!
You may want t' cut out your fins at this time. Begad! Blimey! Make six fins with a 1 9/16 inch long root edge, ya bilge rat, a 1 3/4 inch long leadin' edge, a 1 inch trailin' edge, ya bilge rat, and a 1 1/2 inch bottom edge. Take a piece o' sandpaper and stack sand t' fins t' size. Avast! Now sand t' leading and trailin' edges round. Blimey!
Assemble your motor mount at this time. After t' glue is dry, matey, matey, insert it with t' motor tube flush with t' body tube.
You may attach t' fins at this time. Three fins are attached t' each side pod at an angle o' 90 degrees apart like a typical four fin design. Heres a tip to make for an easier attachment. Begad! Apply a film o' glue t' t' root edge o' a fin, me hearties, let dry for a minute or two, apply another film o' glue then attach. Believe me, this works. Avast! Now apply fillets t' each fin. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! I recommend three fillets per fin. Well, matey, blow me down!
Cut a standard launch lug into two 1/2 inch pieces. Attach one t' t' bottom of t' body tube flush with t' end. Attach t' other one about 7 1/2 from the other one then align them with a launch rod. Well, blow me down! If you opted for a dual recovery, apply t' last one flush with t' bottom o' t' upper tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! After t' glue dries, me hearties, apply fillets at each lug. I recommend about two fillets per lug.
Cut yourself a shock cord mount from computer printer paper or typin' paper. I do nay recommend notebook paper. Blimey! I have used this method on all o' me scratch designs and it hasn't failed yet. Well, blow me down!
You will need a shock cord at least 2 feet long. Avast, me proud beauty! Now assemble t' mount in the traditional manner. Arrr! Once t' glue has dried, glue t' mount at least 1/2 an inch from t' top o' t' tube. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! Blimey!
Now is a good time t' test fit your nose cones. You want a nice snug fit. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! If they are too loose apply maskin' tape at t' shoulders or glue them in place after t' model has been balanced and painted. Begad!
Now is an excellent time t' balance t' model. Begad! Avast! Balance t' model on a straight edge or counter-top. Begad! When t' model hangs level draw a mark at that spot. Now tie a six t' eight foot strin' t' that mark. Swin' t' model around you and note t' results. Begad! If t' model flies straight its fine. Begad! Begad! If it flops or wobbles irregularly, chances are that you will need nose weight. Begad! My model required nose weight. Ahoy! Add enough weight until t' model balances out. Begad! That should do it.
Now you are ready t' finish t' model. Ya scallywag! Ahoy!
Finishing:
Start by sandin' t' model smooth. Arrr! Apply sandin' sealer if desired. Avast! Sand
between coats. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Now spray t' model with automotive primer. Begad! Arrr! Sand any
imperfections. Then apply another coat. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Sand if needed. Now go ahead with your
planned color scheme. Well, arrr, blow me down! After t' paint has dried, shiver me timbers, you may attach t' streamer.
An easier way is t' tie a six inch strin' t' t' streamer then attach that to
the nose cone insert or t' eye bolt. Well, blow me down! Now lets go t' t' field and see how she
flies.
Flight:
If built stock, t' only motor that I recommend be t' Estes A10-3T. Well, arrr, blow me down! This motor
gives t' model a nice boost and ejection usually occurs right at apogee. I
used friction fit retention on me model and it worked perfectly. For my
flights, matey, I used t' Estes A10-3T motor and two squares o' recovery waddin' to
protect t' streamer. Begad! Begad! All three flights were perfect and straight with a little
spin but for me that added t' t' excitement. Well, blow me down! T' model comes down very nicely
with t' streamer. Blimey! I used t' dual recovery method. My model bounces on landing
but with all t' fillets that I applied, me bucko, it hasn't sustained any damage. Begad!
Summary:
When I designed this rocket and after flight testing, ya bilge rat, me goal be t' share this
design with others. Avast! I really have enjoyed this model from plannin' t' design
to pushin' t' launch button for t' first launch.
Main PROS: Small, extremely easy t' transport, shiver me timbers, flies on low cost mini motors, five bucks for four flights is nay bad at all. Ahoy! Flies great on small fields. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag!
Main CONS: A lot o' components are required but if you buy an Estes Designers Special package, you will get all t' components except t' main nose cone and t' motor kit but you can easily buy these at any hobby shop. Blimey! Blimey!
Other:
I also feel that t' rocket could be modified t' fly on standard 18mm motors or
fly on three mini motors but watch out. Begad! Also, me bucko, use 3/32 fin material if you try
this. Also, more nose weight may be required.
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