Brief:
An inexpensive solution for a rail pad usin' t' 80/20 rail. Made o' a combination o' PVC and metal pipe, shiver me timbers, usin' nothin' but a hack saw, arrr, shiver me timbers, a drill, arrr, ya bilge rat, and a Dremel. Blimey! This pad should be able t' handle any Level 1 flight.

Construction:
Parts list:

• Three 5ft lengths o' SCH40 PVC pipe (one 10ft and one 5ft would be cheaper).
• Two 1 1/4" PVC Tees
• Two 1 1/4" t' 1" PVC Bushings
• One 1 1/4" PVC Cross
• Four 1 1/4" elbows 45 degree
• One 1" x 8" metal nipple
• One 1" metal T
• One 1" x 6" metal nipple
• Two 3/8 x 2" clevis pins
• Two hitch pin clips
• One 5/16 turnbuckle set (get t' set with deadlights at both ends)
• Four 1/4-20 x 1" carriage bolts
• One box o' 1/4-20 washers
• One box o' 1/4-20 lockin' nuts
• Two flat corner braces
• One 1/4-20 wood insert nut
• One 1/4-20 x 1 1/2" thumb screw
• Two 3/8 x 1/2 x 1 1/2" steel spacers
• One 3/8" x 2" hex head bolt with lockin' nut
• PVC Cement

My first order o' business was gluin' t' 1 1/4" t' 1" PVC bushings into t' PVC cross directly opposite each other. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Next, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, I sanded t' inside o' t' bushings until t' 8" metal nipple be able t' slide through t' cross, me bucko, keepin' t' fit snug. Once that be done, t' 8" nipple was cut into a 6" section, and a 2 " section. Arrr! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! These were then screwed into each end o' t' metal tee. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Now screw t' 6" nipple into t' side outlet o' t' tee. Ya scallywag! It was now time t' fit t' L brackets t' t' rail, matey, ya bilge rat, and shim them t' fit length wise on top o' t' 2" metal pipe. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Once it was shimmed t' fit, shiver me timbers, a 3/8" hole was drilled through t' 2" section at a 90 degree angle t' t' side outlet o' t' tee, matey, arrr, and t' L bracket rail assembly was attached usin' t' 3/8" x 2" bolt and lock nut. Begad! Begad! This creates t' hinge for t' rail. Ya scallywag! Next I cut a notch into t' top o' t' open end o' t' 6" nipple, arrr, shiver me timbers, and drilled t' holes for t' turnbuckle attachment. Avast! In each end o' t' turnbuckle, shiver me timbers, drive one o' t' steel spacers into t' "eye". Aye aye! Begad! These will need t' be cut t' fit one betwixt t' two L brackets, and one inside t' 6" nipple at t' notched end. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! Place one end o' t' turnbuckle assembly betwixt t' L brackets at one set o' holes, and insert a clevis pin and hitch pin. Ahoy! Begad! Place t' other end o' t' turnbuckle into t' slot in t' 6" nipple and insert t' other clevis pin and hitch pin. This completes t' hinge and altitude adjustment assembly.

For t' base, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, dry fit all parts first and mark their locations!! Cut four 30" long sections o' 1 1/4" PVC pipe t' make t' legs. Cut six pieces, me bucko, 2 1/4" long t' be used t' join t' fittings together. Blimey! Now dry fit all o' t' pieces together, matey, ya bilge rat, me bucko, startin' with t' cross. Well, blow me down! Place a tee at each end o' t' cross (without bushings). Begad! At each end o' t' tees, matey, place an elbow. Ya scallywag! Insert a leg into each elbow. This be t' tricky part. Ahoy! Get t' legs at an angle and height you are comfortable with, me hearties, arrr, makin' sure t' keep t' cross level, and t' ends with bushings vertical. Avast! Mark and number all joints so they can be reassembled in t' same positions. Begad! Begad! Now, me bucko, shiver me timbers, one at a time, ya bilge rat, glue all o' t' pieces together, except t' legs. Ahoy! You will have t' be careful linin' up t' parts as t' glue sets up very quickly.

T' last step is optional. Blimey! In one side o' t' cross, me hearties, drill a hole, and screw in a threaded brass insert bein' careful nay t' get it in too far. Ahoy! Aye aye! Now screw in a thumb screw into t' insert and this will allow lockin' t' horizontal adjustment into place.

After all o' t' glue has set, ya bilge rat, insert t' legs. Begad! A small slit can be cut length wise into one end o' each leg t' make installin' and removin' easier. Aye aye! Aye aye! Now, drop t' rail assembly into t' cross, me hearties, and thar it is, shiver me timbers, matey, a sturdy cheap rail pad. Aye aye! Vertical adjustment is done by adjustin' t' turnbuckle. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! T' whole rail assembly can rotate in t' base for horizontal adjustment. Blimey! and t' load a rocket on t' rail, me hearties, matey, me bucko, just pull one o' t' pins out, and t' rail can be laid down for loading.

For a blast deflector, a rectangular piece o' sheet metal, say 6" x 18", can be bent t' form a triangle, matey, ya bilge rat, me hearties, and held on t' rail with rail buttons. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! This suggestion is courtesy o' Matt Stum o' railbuttons.com.