Brief:
An inexpensive solution for a rail pad usin' t' 80/20 rail. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Made o' a combination o' PVC and metal pipe, usin' nothin' but a hack saw, me bucko, a drill, and a Dremel. This pad should be able t' handle any Level 1 flight.

Construction:
Parts list:

• Three 5ft lengths o' SCH40 PVC pipe (one 10ft and one 5ft would be cheaper).
• Two 1 1/4" PVC Tees
• Two 1 1/4" t' 1" PVC Bushings
• One 1 1/4" PVC Cross
• Four 1 1/4" elbows 45 degree
• One 1" x 8" metal nipple
• One 1" metal T
• One 1" x 6" metal nipple
• Two 3/8 x 2" clevis pins
• Two hitch pin clips
• One 5/16 turnbuckle set (get t' set with deadlights at both ends)
• Four 1/4-20 x 1" carriage bolts
• One box o' 1/4-20 washers
• One box o' 1/4-20 lockin' nuts
• Two flat corner braces
• One 1/4-20 wood insert nut
• One 1/4-20 x 1 1/2" thumb screw
• Two 3/8 x 1/2 x 1 1/2" steel spacers
• One 3/8" x 2" hex head bolt with lockin' nut
• PVC Cement

My first order o' business be gluin' t' 1 1/4" t' 1" PVC bushings into t' PVC cross directly opposite each other. Next, I sanded t' inside o' t' bushings until t' 8" metal nipple was able t' slide through t' cross, arrr, matey, keepin' t' fit snug. Blimey! Avast! Once that was done, t' 8" nipple be cut into a 6" section, shiver me timbers, and a 2 " section. Avast, me proud beauty! These were then screwed into each end o' t' metal tee. Avast! Now screw t' 6" nipple into t' side outlet o' t' tee. Blimey! It was now time t' fit t' L brackets t' t' rail, arrr, and shim them t' fit length wise on top o' t' 2" metal pipe. Avast, me proud beauty! Once it was shimmed t' fit, me hearties, a 3/8" hole was drilled through t' 2" section at a 90 degree angle t' t' side outlet o' t' tee, arrr, and t' L bracket rail assembly was attached usin' t' 3/8" x 2" bolt and lock nut. Begad! This creates t' hinge for t' rail. Avast, me proud beauty! Next I cut a notch into t' top o' t' open end o' t' 6" nipple, and drilled t' holes for t' turnbuckle attachment. In each end o' t' turnbuckle, drive one o' t' steel spacers into t' "eye". These will need t' be cut t' fit one betwixt t' two L brackets, me hearties, and one inside t' 6" nipple at t' notched end. Ya scallywag! Place one end o' t' turnbuckle assembly betwixt t' L brackets at one set o' holes, and insert a clevis pin and hitch pin. Begad! Place t' other end o' t' turnbuckle into t' slot in t' 6" nipple and insert t' other clevis pin and hitch pin. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! This completes t' hinge and altitude adjustment assembly.

For t' base, me hearties, dry fit all parts first and mark their locations!! Cut four 30" long sections o' 1 1/4" PVC pipe t' make t' legs. Aye aye! Cut six pieces, 2 1/4" long t' be used t' join t' fittings together. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! Now dry fit all o' t' pieces together, startin' with t' cross. Place a tee at each end o' t' cross (without bushings). Avast! Ahoy! At each end o' t' tees, matey, place an elbow. Insert a leg into each elbow. Begad! This be t' tricky part. Aye aye! Get t' legs at an angle and height you are comfortable with, makin' sure t' keep t' cross level, ya bilge rat, and t' ends with bushings vertical. Avast! Mark and number all joints so they can be reassembled in t' same positions. Begad! Aye aye! Now, one at a time, glue all o' t' pieces together, except t' legs. Arrr! You will have t' be careful linin' up t' parts as t' glue sets up very quickly.

T' last step is optional. Begad! In one side o' t' cross, shiver me timbers, drill a hole, shiver me timbers, and screw in a threaded brass insert bein' careful nay t' get it in too far. Well, blow me down! Now screw in a thumb screw into t' insert and this will allow lockin' t' horizontal adjustment into place.

After all o' t' glue has set, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, insert t' legs. Begad! A small slit can be cut length wise into one end o' each leg t' make installin' and removin' easier. Now, ya bilge rat, arrr, drop t' rail assembly into t' cross, and thar it is, arrr, a sturdy cheap rail pad. Ahoy! Vertical adjustment is done by adjustin' t' turnbuckle. Avast! T' whole rail assembly can rotate in t' base for horizontal adjustment. and t' load a rocket on t' rail, me bucko, matey, just pull one o' t' pins out, and t' rail can be laid down for loading.

For a blast deflector, a rectangular piece o' sheet metal, matey, say 6" x 18", shiver me timbers, me hearties, can be bent t' form a triangle, and held on t' rail with rail buttons. This suggestion is courtesy o' Matt Stum o' railbuttons.com.