Scratch Inexpensive Rail Launch Pad

Scratch - Inexpensive Rail Launch Pad {Scratch}

Contributed by David Logan

Published: 2010-09-09
Manufacturer: Scratch

Scratch - Rail LauncherBrief:
An inexpensive solution for a rail pad usin' t' 80/20 rail. Blimey! Made o' a combination o' PVC and metal pipe, usin' nothin' but a hack saw, a drill, and a Dremel. Arrr! This pad should be able t' handle any Level 1 flight.

Construction:
Parts list:

  • Three 5ft lengths o' SCH40 PVC pipe (one 10ft and one 5ft would be cheaper).
  • Two 1 1/4" PVC Tees
  • Two 1 1/4" t' 1" PVC Bushings
  • One 1 1/4" PVC Cross
  • Four 1 1/4" elbows 45 degree
  • One 1" x 8" metal nipple
  • One 1" metal T
  • One 1" x 6" metal nipple
  • Two 3/8 x 2" clevis pins
  • Two hitch pin clips
  • One 5/16 turnbuckle set (get t' set with deadlights at both ends)
  • Four 1/4-20 x 1" carriage bolts
  • One box o' 1/4-20 washers
  • One box o' 1/4-20 lockin' nuts
  • Two flat corner braces
  • One 1/4-20 wood insert nut
  • One 1/4-20 x 1 1/2" thumb screw
  • Two 3/8 x 1/2 x 1 1/2" steel spacers
  • One 3/8" x 2" hex head bolt with lockin' nut
  • PVC Cement

Scratch - Rail LauncherMy first order o' business was gluin' t' 1 1/4" t' 1" PVC bushings into t' PVC cross directly opposite each other. Next, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, I sanded t' inside o' t' bushings until t' 8" metal nipple be able t' slide through t' cross, me hearties, keepin' t' fit snug. Ahoy! Arrr! Once that be done, ya bilge rat, t' 8" nipple be cut into a 6" section, and a 2 " section. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! These were then screwed into each end o' t' metal tee. Begad! Begad! Now screw t' 6" nipple into t' side outlet o' t' tee. Ya scallywag! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! It be now time t' fit t' L brackets t' t' rail, matey, me hearties, and shim them t' fit length wise on top o' t' 2" metal pipe. Ya scallywag! Once it was shimmed t' fit, a 3/8" hole was drilled through t' 2" section at a 90 degree angle t' t' side outlet o' t' tee, ya bilge rat, and t' L bracket rail assembly was attached usin' t' 3/8" x 2" bolt and lock nut. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! This creates t' hinge for t' rail. Avast, me proud beauty! Next I cut a notch into t' top o' t' open end o' t' 6" nipple, me bucko, and drilled t' holes for t' turnbuckle attachment. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! In each end o' t' turnbuckle, shiver me timbers, drive one o' t' steel spacers into t' "eye". Avast, me proud beauty! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! These will need t' be cut t' fit one betwixt t' two L brackets, and one inside t' 6" nipple at t' notched end. Place one end o' t' turnbuckle assembly betwixt t' L brackets at one set o' holes, and insert a clevis pin and hitch pin. Place t' other end o' t' turnbuckle into t' slot in t' 6" nipple and insert t' other clevis pin and hitch pin. Ya scallywag! This completes t' hinge and altitude adjustment assembly.

Scratch - Rail Launcher For t' base, shiver me timbers, me hearties, ya bilge rat, dry fit all parts first and mark their locations!! Cut four 30" long sections o' 1 1/4" PVC pipe t' make t' legs. Cut six pieces, arrr, arrr, 2 1/4" long t' be used t' join t' fittings together. Avast, me proud beauty! Now dry fit all o' t' pieces together, startin' with t' cross. Ahoy! Arrr! Place a tee at each end o' t' cross (without bushings). Begad! At each end o' t' tees, me hearties, place an elbow. Arrr! Insert a leg into each elbow. Ya scallywag! This be t' tricky part. Begad! Get t' legs at an angle and height you are comfortable with, makin' sure t' keep t' cross level, and t' ends with bushings vertical. Aye aye! Mark and number all joints so they can be reassembled in t' same positions. Ya scallywag! Now, ya bilge rat, one at a time, glue all o' t' pieces together, except t' legs. Begad! You will have t' be careful linin' up t' parts as t' glue sets up very quickly.

Scratch - Rail Launcher T' last step is optional. In one side o' t' cross, arrr, drill a hole, me bucko, and screw in a threaded brass insert bein' careful nay t' get it in too far. Begad! Now screw in a thumb screw into t' insert and this will allow lockin' t' horizontal adjustment into place.

After all o' t' glue has set, insert t' legs. Begad! A small slit can be cut length wise into one end o' each leg t' make installin' and removin' easier. Begad! Now, me hearties, arrr, drop t' rail assembly into t' cross, matey, and thar it is, a sturdy cheap rail pad. Avast, me proud beauty! Vertical adjustment is done by adjustin' t' turnbuckle. Avast! T' whole rail assembly can rotate in t' base for horizontal adjustment. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! and t' load a rocket on t' rail, shiver me timbers, just pull one o' t' pins out, me bucko, and t' rail can be laid down for loading.

For a blast deflector, shiver me timbers, me hearties, a rectangular piece o' sheet metal, arrr, say 6" x 18", can be bent t' form a triangle, me hearties, and held on t' rail with rail buttons. Ahoy! This suggestion is courtesy o' Matt Stum o' railbuttons.com.

 

Scratch - Rail Launcher

Comments:

avatar
Rick Reid (November 24, 2014)

Great minds do seem to think alike. The Pad I've scratch built is 95% like yours. The 1 big diff is that instead of having pivot to lower the rail, I made it "fixed". I went thru the tee and let the rail rest on the grounnd. I've since made a "Peg leg" so I don't lose as much rail height. Cool All I do now is tip the whole pad over and use a broom handle to prop it up. I have planed out a tilt just never gotten around to building it. Tongue Out

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