Brief:
An inexpensive solution for a rail pad usin' t' 80/20 rail. Made o' a combination o' PVC and metal pipe, usin' nothin' but a hack saw, matey, a drill, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, and a Dremel. This pad should be able t' handle any Level 1 flight.

Construction:
Parts list:

• Three 5ft lengths o' SCH40 PVC pipe (one 10ft and one 5ft would be cheaper).
• Two 1 1/4" PVC Tees
• Two 1 1/4" t' 1" PVC Bushings
• One 1 1/4" PVC Cross
• Four 1 1/4" elbows 45 degree
• One 1" x 8" metal nipple
• One 1" metal T
• One 1" x 6" metal nipple
• Two 3/8 x 2" clevis pins
• Two hitch pin clips
• One 5/16 turnbuckle set (get t' set with deadlights at both ends)
• Four 1/4-20 x 1" carriage bolts
• One box o' 1/4-20 washers
• One box o' 1/4-20 lockin' nuts
• Two flat corner braces
• One 1/4-20 wood insert nut
• One 1/4-20 x 1 1/2" thumb screw
• Two 3/8 x 1/2 x 1 1/2" steel spacers
• One 3/8" x 2" hex head bolt with lockin' nut
• PVC Cement

My first order o' business be gluin' t' 1 1/4" t' 1" PVC bushings into t' PVC cross directly opposite each other. Begad! Ya scallywag! Next, ya bilge rat, arrr, me hearties, I sanded t' inside o' t' bushings until t' 8" metal nipple was able t' slide through t' cross, keepin' t' fit snug. Begad! Once that be done, shiver me timbers, t' 8" nipple be cut into a 6" section, arrr, matey, and a 2 " section. These were then screwed into each end o' t' metal tee. Now screw t' 6" nipple into t' side outlet o' t' tee. Begad! It be now time t' fit t' L brackets t' t' rail, me hearties, and shim them t' fit length wise on top o' t' 2" metal pipe. Begad! Begad! Once it was shimmed t' fit, arrr, me bucko, a 3/8" hole was drilled through t' 2" section at a 90 degree angle t' t' side outlet o' t' tee, and t' L bracket rail assembly was attached usin' t' 3/8" x 2" bolt and lock nut. This creates t' hinge for t' rail. Avast! Next I cut a notch into t' top o' t' open end o' t' 6" nipple, and drilled t' holes for t' turnbuckle attachment. Avast! In each end o' t' turnbuckle, drive one o' t' steel spacers into t' "eye". Well, blow me down! Aye aye! These will need t' be cut t' fit one betwixt t' two L brackets, and one inside t' 6" nipple at t' notched end. Place one end o' t' turnbuckle assembly betwixt t' L brackets at one set o' holes, ya bilge rat, and insert a clevis pin and hitch pin. Aye aye! Place t' other end o' t' turnbuckle into t' slot in t' 6" nipple and insert t' other clevis pin and hitch pin. Begad! This completes t' hinge and altitude adjustment assembly.

For t' base, me bucko, ya bilge rat, dry fit all parts first and mark their locations!! Cut four 30" long sections o' 1 1/4" PVC pipe t' make t' legs. Begad! Cut six pieces, 2 1/4" long t' be used t' join t' fittings together. Begad! Now dry fit all o' t' pieces together, shiver me timbers, startin' with t' cross. Well, blow me down! Avast! Place a tee at each end o' t' cross (without bushings). Aye aye! At each end o' t' tees, place an elbow. Ahoy! Insert a leg into each elbow. Avast, me proud beauty! This be t' tricky part. Get t' legs at an angle and height you are comfortable with, shiver me timbers, makin' sure t' keep t' cross level, shiver me timbers, and t' ends with bushings vertical. Blimey! Mark and number all joints so they can be reassembled in t' same positions. Ya scallywag! Now, one at a time, glue all o' t' pieces together, ya bilge rat, except t' legs. You will have t' be careful linin' up t' parts as t' glue sets up very quickly.

T' last step is optional. Begad! In one side o' t' cross, me hearties, drill a hole, arrr, and screw in a threaded brass insert bein' careful nay t' get it in too far. Begad! Avast! Now screw in a thumb screw into t' insert and this will allow lockin' t' horizontal adjustment into place.

After all o' t' glue has set, insert t' legs. A small slit can be cut length wise into one end o' each leg t' make installin' and removin' easier. Begad! Now, matey, me hearties, drop t' rail assembly into t' cross, and thar it is, me hearties, me bucko, a sturdy cheap rail pad. Begad! Ya scallywag! Vertical adjustment is done by adjustin' t' turnbuckle. Begad! Aye aye! T' whole rail assembly can rotate in t' base for horizontal adjustment. Begad! and t' load a rocket on t' rail, shiver me timbers, just pull one o' t' pins out, and t' rail can be laid down for loading.

For a blast deflector, shiver me timbers, a rectangular piece o' sheet metal, say 6" x 18", me bucko, can be bent t' form a triangle, and held on t' rail with rail buttons. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Blimey! This suggestion is courtesy o' Matt Stum o' railbuttons.com.