Published: | 2010-09-09 |
Manufacturer: | Scratch |
Brief:
An inexpensive solution for a rail pad usin' t' 80/20 rail. Made o' a combination o' PVC and metal pipe, usin' nothin' but a hack saw, me hearties, shiver me timbers, a drill, me hearties, and a Dremel. Begad! This pad should be able t' handle any Level 1 flight.
Construction:
Parts list:
My first order o' business was gluin' t' 1 1/4" t' 1" PVC bushings into t' PVC cross directly opposite each other. Avast! Ya scallywag! Next, shiver me timbers, I sanded t' inside o' t' bushings until t' 8" metal nipple was able t' slide through t' cross, keepin' t' fit snug. Begad! Once that was done, ya bilge rat, me bucko, t' 8" nipple was cut into a 6" section, matey, and a 2 " section. These were then screwed into each end o' t' metal tee. Avast, me proud beauty! Now screw t' 6" nipple into t' side outlet o' t' tee. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! It was now time t' fit t' L brackets t' t' rail, and shim them t' fit length wise on top o' t' 2" metal pipe. Ahoy! Begad! Once it be shimmed t' fit, a 3/8" hole was drilled through t' 2" section at a 90 degree angle t' t' side outlet o' t' tee, me bucko, and t' L bracket rail assembly be attached usin' t' 3/8" x 2" bolt and lock nut. Aye aye! Avast! This creates t' hinge for t' rail. Next I cut a notch into t' top o' t' open end o' t' 6" nipple, ya bilge rat, and drilled t' holes for t' turnbuckle attachment. In each end o' t' turnbuckle, arrr, me bucko, drive one o' t' steel spacers into t' "eye". These will need t' be cut t' fit one betwixt t' two L brackets, and one inside t' 6" nipple at t' notched end. Place one end o' t' turnbuckle assembly betwixt t' L brackets at one set o' holes, and insert a clevis pin and hitch pin. Avast! Place t' other end o' t' turnbuckle into t' slot in t' 6" nipple and insert t' other clevis pin and hitch pin. Ya scallywag! This completes t' hinge and altitude adjustment assembly.
For t' base, dry fit all parts first and mark their locations!! Cut four 30" long sections o' 1 1/4" PVC pipe t' make t' legs. Cut six pieces, arrr, 2 1/4" long t' be used t' join t' fittings together. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Now dry fit all o' t' pieces together, startin' with t' cross. Well, blow me down! Place a tee at each end o' t' cross (without bushings). Aye aye! Begad! At each end o' t' tees, arrr, place an elbow. Insert a leg into each elbow. This be t' tricky part. Avast! Get t' legs at an angle and height you are comfortable with, me bucko, ya bilge rat, makin' sure t' keep t' cross level, and t' ends with bushings vertical. Begad! Mark and number all joints so they can be reassembled in t' same positions. Ya scallywag! Now, one at a time, glue all o' t' pieces together, except t' legs. Avast, me proud beauty! You will have t' be careful linin' up t' parts as t' glue sets up very quickly.
T' last step is optional. Begad! In one side o' t' cross, arrr, me hearties, drill a hole, me bucko, arrr, and screw in a threaded brass insert bein' careful nay t' get it in too far. Now screw in a thumb screw into t' insert and this will allow lockin' t' horizontal adjustment into place.
After all o' t' glue has set, matey, me bucko, insert t' legs. A small slit can be cut length wise into one end o' each leg t' make installin' and removin' easier. Begad! Now, drop t' rail assembly into t' cross, and thar it is, a sturdy cheap rail pad. Vertical adjustment is done by adjustin' t' turnbuckle. T' whole rail assembly can rotate in t' base for horizontal adjustment. Avast, me proud beauty! and t' load a rocket on t' rail, just pull one o' t' pins out, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, and t' rail can be laid down for loading.
For a blast deflector, matey, a rectangular piece o' sheet metal, say 6" x 18", can be bent t' form a triangle, me bucko, shiver me timbers, and held on t' rail with rail buttons. Ya scallywag! This suggestion is courtesy o' Matt Stum o' railbuttons.com.
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Rick Reid (November 24, 2014)
Great minds do seem to think alike. The Pad I've scratch built is 95% like yours. The 1 big diff is that instead of having pivot to lower the rail, I made it "fixed". I went thru the tee and let the rail rest on the grounnd. I've since made a "Peg leg" so I don't lose as much rail height. All I do now is tip the whole pad over and use a broom handle to prop it up. I have planed out a tilt just never gotten around to building it.