Published: | 2010-09-09 |
Manufacturer: | Scratch |
Brief:
An inexpensive solution for a rail pad usin' t' 80/20 rail. Ahoy! Made o' a combination o' PVC and metal pipe, shiver me timbers, arrr, ya bilge rat, usin' nothin' but a hack saw, arrr, me hearties, a drill, me bucko, and a Dremel. Well, blow me down! This pad should be able t' handle any Level 1 flight.
Construction:
Parts list:
My first order o' business be gluin' t' 1 1/4" t' 1" PVC bushings into t' PVC cross directly opposite each other. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! Next, I sanded t' inside o' t' bushings until t' 8" metal nipple be able t' slide through t' cross, keepin' t' fit snug. Aye aye! Once that be done, me hearties, t' 8" nipple was cut into a 6" section, arrr, and a 2 " section. These were then screwed into each end o' t' metal tee. Aye aye! Now screw t' 6" nipple into t' side outlet o' t' tee. Begad! Begad! It was now time t' fit t' L brackets t' t' rail, matey, arrr, and shim them t' fit length wise on top o' t' 2" metal pipe. Once it was shimmed t' fit, a 3/8" hole was drilled through t' 2" section at a 90 degree angle t' t' side outlet o' t' tee, matey, and t' L bracket rail assembly was attached usin' t' 3/8" x 2" bolt and lock nut. Begad! This creates t' hinge for t' rail. Arrr! Next I cut a notch into t' top o' t' open end o' t' 6" nipple, and drilled t' holes for t' turnbuckle attachment. In each end o' t' turnbuckle, me bucko, me hearties, drive one o' t' steel spacers into t' "eye". Avast! These will need t' be cut t' fit one betwixt t' two L brackets, shiver me timbers, and one inside t' 6" nipple at t' notched end. Aye aye! Place one end o' t' turnbuckle assembly betwixt t' L brackets at one set o' holes, and insert a clevis pin and hitch pin. Aye aye! Place t' other end o' t' turnbuckle into t' slot in t' 6" nipple and insert t' other clevis pin and hitch pin. This completes t' hinge and altitude adjustment assembly.
For t' base, arrr, dry fit all parts first and mark their locations!! Cut four 30" long sections o' 1 1/4" PVC pipe t' make t' legs. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! Cut six pieces, arrr, ya bilge rat, 2 1/4" long t' be used t' join t' fittings together. Now dry fit all o' t' pieces together, startin' with t' cross. Begad! Place a tee at each end o' t' cross (without bushings). At each end o' t' tees, ya bilge rat, place an elbow. Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! Insert a leg into each elbow. Ahoy! Ahoy! This be t' tricky part. Arrr! Get t' legs at an angle and height you are comfortable with, makin' sure t' keep t' cross level, and t' ends with bushings vertical. Avast! Begad! Mark and number all joints so they can be reassembled in t' same positions. Well, blow me down! Now, me hearties, one at a time, glue all o' t' pieces together, except t' legs. Blimey! You will have t' be careful linin' up t' parts as t' glue sets up very quickly.
T' last step is optional. In one side o' t' cross, drill a hole, and screw in a threaded brass insert bein' careful nay t' get it in too far. Arrr! Now screw in a thumb screw into t' insert and this will allow lockin' t' horizontal adjustment into place.
After all o' t' glue has set, me hearties, matey, insert t' legs. Ya scallywag! A small slit can be cut length wise into one end o' each leg t' make installin' and removin' easier. Begad! Begad! Now, arrr, matey, drop t' rail assembly into t' cross, matey, and thar it is, a sturdy cheap rail pad. Aye aye! Vertical adjustment is done by adjustin' t' turnbuckle. Avast! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! T' whole rail assembly can rotate in t' base for horizontal adjustment. Arrr! Well, me bucko, blow me down! and t' load a rocket on t' rail, just pull one o' t' pins out, me bucko, arrr, ya bilge rat, and t' rail can be laid down for loading.
For a blast deflector, ya bilge rat, a rectangular piece o' sheet metal, say 6" x 18", matey, can be bent t' form a triangle, and held on t' rail with rail buttons. Blimey! This suggestion is courtesy o' Matt Stum o' railbuttons.com.
Rick Reid (November 24, 2014)
Great minds do seem to think alike. The Pad I've scratch built is 95% like yours. The 1 big diff is that instead of having pivot to lower the rail, I made it "fixed". I went thru the tee and let the rail rest on the grounnd. I've since made a "Peg leg" so I don't lose as much rail height. All I do now is tip the whole pad over and use a broom handle to prop it up. I have planed out a tilt just never gotten around to building it.