Brief:
Classic Estes kit that had unique styling, matey, good graphics and super flight characteristics.

Construction:
I decided t' clone t' classic Estes Goblin. Arrr! It was a popular kit for many years with Estes, me bucko, me bucko, and I never owned one because I couldn't afford t' D motors.

T' plans were from t' original Estes instructions as detailed on t' JimZ website. I got t' parts from various places. Arrr! T' biggest expense was shipping, so I bought parts for three kits. Avast, me proud beauty! T' other two kits were given away at t' UROC Christmas party.

T' nose cone was part BNC55-AO from Balsa Machinin' Services. It's nay a custom nose cone. Avast, me proud beauty! T' quality was top notch and t' service was fast, shiver me timbers, arrr, as is usual from BMS.

T' body tubes (BT-55 and BT-50), centerin' rings and engine blocks were purchased from Aerospace Specialty Products. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! T' ASP body tubes are white, so finishin' is easier than with brown tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! T' centerin' rings were good quality and received in good order. Begad! T' main body tube is 9" long. Ahoy! T' motor mount is 2.75" long.

T' motor hooks, ya bilge rat, balsa fin material and 3/16" launch lug were from a local hobby store, Douglass Models. Blimey! T' motor hooks and launch lugs are standard Estes hooks. Ahoy! T' fin material is 3/32" balsa.

For t' shock cord, arrr, ya bilge rat, arrr, I deviated from t' Estes plans. T' anchor is Keelhaul®©™ looped around t' forward centerin' rings, ya bilge rat, and t' shock cord is nylon cord. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! T' Keelhaul®©™ was purchased from Pratt Hobbies. Also, ya bilge rat, me hearties, t' nose weight is fishin' weights. I put 0.75 oz o' weight in t' nose. This makes me Goblin stable up through an F24 motor. Ya scallywag! Fishin' weights were from a local bait shop.

T' decals were purchased from t' JimZ website as well. Avast! They were absolutely great. Blimey! He also threw in a set o' decals for an Estes Blue Star, matey, so I that one too (but that's another review).

I also added a 9" Top Flight chute for recovery.

In t' spirit o' a clone, I decided that thar would be no epoxy on me Goblin. Well, blow me down! I built it pretty much per directions, ya bilge rat, except for t' shock cord anchor. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Since me nose weight be more than t' basic Goblin, shiver me timbers, I also opted for a 9" nylon chute. Well, blow me down! This brings it down much slower than a streamer, but still pretty fast.

T' fins roots were reinforced with used dryer sheets. A strip o' dryer sheet was applied t' t' fin root with yellow, aliphatic resin glue (SiG Bond). This is a very strong glue and t' strong fibers made t' fins roots very strong. Arrr! Blimey! It took a lot o' sandin' t' make it smooth though. Arrr! Well, blow me down! T' nose cone weight be added by drillin' 2 holes in t' nose cone and addin' fishin' weights. Avast, me proud beauty! After t' weights were in place, me hearties, ya bilge rat, a dowel was cut and glued in t' fill t' hole.

T' shock cord anchors t' t' motor mount. Well, blow me down! A length o' Keelhaul®©™ was tied around t' forward centerin' rin' before t' motor mount be glue in place. T' Keelhaul®©™ extends about 6" out o' t' body tube. Then about 48" o' nylon cord was tied t' t' Keelhaul®©™ and t' screw-eye in t' nose cone base. Avast, me proud beauty! A loop be tied in t' nylon near t' nose cone and this is where t' chute is attached.

Finishing:
Sealin' t' fins and nose cone be done as I usually do it. Hobbylight balsa filler is applied liberally t' t' surfaces with me finger, rubbin' t' stuff into t' grains. Ya scallywag! Then I sand it smooth with very fine sandpaper. Ahoy! Begad! This is followed by 2 or more coats o' sandin' sealer, me bucko, me bucko, sandin' with very fine sand paper betwixt coats. Aye aye! Blimey! This fills all t' grain and makes things very smooth.

In fact, matey, I rub t' Hobbylight into t' body tube seams as well. After sanding, ya bilge rat, it speeds up t' primer/sandin' time.

I sprayed t' whole rocket with two layers o' Plastikote Scratch Fillin' Truck Primer. Well, blow me down! Well, me hearties, blow me down! T' first coat was sanded almost all t' way back, arrr, t' second be just sanded t' smooth it. I use 3M sandin' sponges for this step.

Next two coats o' Krylon flat white was applied t' give a nice even undercoat. Begad! Avast! Sand betwixt each coat with very fine sandin' sponge. Avast! Then I sprayed two coats o' Krylon Yellow. Ya scallywag! Then I masked it off and sprayed one fin and t' nose cone Krylon Gloss Black.

I then applied t' decals. Avast! Blimey! They went on very easily and covered perfectly.

Finally, arrr, airbrushed Testor clear gloss on t' whole thing, arrr, t' make it evenly glossy. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! T' results were catalog perfect.

Construction Rating: 5 out o' 5

Flight:
Preppin' for flight is easy. Pull t' shock cord all t' way out and put a generous amount o' waddin' in t' tube. Z-fold t' shock cord and slide that into t' body tube. Begad! Pull t' chute into a peak, arrr, z-fold t' shrouds and place them on t' base o' t' chute. Aye aye! Arrr! Z-fold t' chute, roll and slid it into t' body tube. Put t' nose cone on. Ya scallywag! T' motor is just a matter o' poppin' it into t' motor mount. Ya scallywag! Simply. I've flown it three times on D motor. Blimey! Aerotech D9-7 is fast and high, shiver me timbers, deploys a little after apogee. Aerotech D15-7 is very fast, high and just about right for delay. Aye aye! Estes D12-7 is fast and high, delay is just about right.

On all t' D flights, t' rocket be pretty much invisible until t' chute came out. Avast! Ya scallywag! Keep your eye on this one, or you'll lose it fast. Avast! Unless you're eagle eyed, matey, I'd save this rocket for blue sky days.

I've flown it once on an 18 mm motor with an adapter. Blimey! Ya scallywag! T' C6-5 was good, me bucko, but seemed pretty anemic after seein' t' D flights. This is a good motor for parks and such.

T' rocket lifts off very fast, matey, arrr, and thar be a fast spin t' it which is visible durin' coast.

Recovery:
I've flown it three times with t' 9" chute, and once with a streamer. Ahoy! I really regret t' streamer flight because t' rocket came down very fast, t' nose cone pullin' everythin' behind it. Blimey! It landed hard, nose cone hittin' first, matey, and me little Goblin still shows t' scars o' that landing. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! T' 9" chute brings it down fast, is more visible and a lot gentler.

T' Keelhaul®©™/nylon system is holdin' up very well. Ahoy! This rocket gets up a good head o' steam. If thar be any wind, it doesn't slow down too much. Begad! I wouldn't use elastic cord, me hearties, me bucko, unless it's really long, because you're goin' t' get dings in t' nose cone and body tube.

You really need t' watch this carefully, it's nay a small field rocket.

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
T' Goblin is a favorite upscale. Ya scallywag! You can get upscale decals from JimZ or Tango Papa. Ya scallywag! Begad! There are no scale nose cones for it in larger sizes, though. Arrr! Most people go with an 'close enough' ogive nose cone from LOC/Precision. Well, blow me down! Avast! T' rocket is deceptively sturdy and very stable. Blimey! It's speed and altitude usually startles people.

Overall Rating: 5 out o' 5