Descon RAP(N) Original Design / Scratch Built

Scratch - RAP(N) {Scratch}

Contributed by Scott Oliver

Manufacturer: Scratch

RAP(N)

Rocket Assisted Projectile (Nerf)

T' RAP(N) is a 9" Nerf whistlin' foam dart, modified for "more power!". Ahoy! It flies on 13mm engines t' about 100’ and is a real crowd-pleaser.

History

Several years ago I read a book titled "Microserfs" by Douglas Coupland, a fictional tale o' a band o' Microsoft employees. One o' t' scenes from t' book that intrigued me tells about how some o' t' workers would arm themselves with Nerf weaponry and go on "huntin' parties", trackin' down or ambushin' other employees and bombardin' them with a fusillade o' foam darts then dashin' off in search o' another victim.

I tried without success t' interest me co-workers in havin' Nerf wars t' blow off some steam. Blimey! Without success, matey, that is, ya bilge rat, until I took me current job. Well, blow me down! Begad! Here I found some kindred spirits and soon almost everyone in t' office had armed themselves and t' darts were flying. Begad! Great fun!

One o' t' types o' weaponry in use is called t' Triple Shot. It fires 9 inch foam darts. Avast! Each dart is 237 mm (9") long by 30 mm (1.25") wide. Avast, me proud beauty! Made o' a red foam material, t' ones that come with t' Triple Shot have a blue rubber nose cap that makes them whistle as they fly. T' darts have 3 foam fins, canted t' induce spin in flight. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! T' darts are fired by slidin' t' hollow base o' t' dart over a spigot on t' launcher; pullin' t' trigger releases a burst o' air which propels t' dart on its way.

Shortly after we acquired t' Triple Shot, ya bilge rat, I noticed t' hole in t' base o' t' dart looked remarkably close t' t' size o' an 18mm motor and commented that perhaps I should make a rocket from one o' t' darts. Ahoy! Some time later I put on a demonstration launch for me friends from work, me bucko, after which they started urgin' me t' work on a dart-to-rocket conversion. I took one o' t' darts home and sure enough, a BT-20 tube fit into t' aft o' t' dart; a snug fit, but definitely do-able! T' project was on!

RAP(N) with original launcher, ya bilge rat, t' Nerf Triple Shot.

 


Design

T' RAP(N) is a single stage, tumble/streamer recovery rocket. Blimey! It flies on 13mm motors; either A3-4T or A10-0/3T. Arrr! Begad! It consists o' a Nerf foam dart body and a detachable engine pod. T' dart body is made o' soft foam and falls fairly slow and soft; t' engine pod is ejected and is recovered by streamer.

Length: ~ 9"
Diameter: ~ 1"
Weight: 1 oz.

 


Components/materials

9" Nerf dart, with whistlin' cap
2 #8 lead sinkers
approx. Avast, me proud beauty! 4.25" piece o' BT-20 body tube
approx. Arrr! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! 4" piece o' BT-5 body tube
1 used 18mm motor
2 BT-5 engine block (may be made from slices o' a used 13mm motor)
Streamer material
Launch lug
Small piece o' scrap balsa
Small section o' cardboard
White/yellow glue
Hot melt glue

 


Construction

  • Dart body assembly
  1. Build t' forward body tube plug.
    T' body tube plug provides a thrustin' surface for t' engine pod and protects t' foam dart from t' hot ejection gases.
  1. Trim a small section from t' expended 18mm motor, shiver me timbers, about .25" in length.
  2. Cut a circle from t' cardboard, arrr, sized t' just fit into t' BT-20 body tube.
  3. Glue t' cardboard circle t' t' motor section t' form a plug for t' forward end o' t' body tube. Blimey! Let dry.
  4. Sand t' plug assembly so it fits inside t' BT-20 tube.
  • Insert t' BT-20 body tube into t' Nerf dart.
    This will be a snug fit, ya bilge rat, so t' avoid crimpin' t' tube I didn’t cut t' tube before insertin' it into t' dart and I reinforced t' tube by (temporarily) puttin' several 18mm motors inside t' tube. Avast! Once t' tube is in place, matey, ya bilge rat, trim it off flush with t' end o' t' dart.
  • Install t' forward body tube plug.
    T' plug be nay installed in t' body tube before it was inserted into t' dart t' avoid sealin' t' body tube and trappin' air inside t' dart. Avast! T' foam material o' t' dart is nay porous, so air trapped betwixt t' dart walls and a plugged body tube insert would prevent t' plugged tube from goin' all t' way into t' dart.
  • Holdin' t' Nerf dart vertically, ya bilge rat, me bucko, with t' aft o' t' dart up, carefully dribble some glue into t' body tube so that it falls all t' way t' t' front o' t' tube. Ahoy! Make sure nay t' drip any onto t' sides o' t' tube walls! T' only place you want glue is on t' walls at t' very bottom!
  • Slid t' forward plug into t' tube so that t' cardboard disk is t' t' rear. Push it into place at t' very front end o' t' body tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Allow t' glue t' dry.
  • Engine pod assembly
  1. Measure t' length available inside t' plugged BT-20 tube insert and cut a section o' t' BT-5 body tube t' that length plus about .25". Avast, me proud beauty! On me rocket, it ended up bein' about 4".
  2. Glue a BT-5 motor block 1.5" from one end o' t' engine pod. Blimey! Remember which end be t' rear.
  3. Cut a 1.25" long section o' t' expended 18mm motor for a spacer. Begad! Blimey! Ream out t' inside so that t' BT-5 tube can slide into it. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! T' spacer must slide into t' BT-20 tube easily, shiver me timbers, so carefully peal off layers from t' outside o' t' spacer if necessary until you get a loose fit into t' BT-20 tube.
  4. Mark t' engine pod tube 1" from t' aft end. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! Glue t' spacer onto t' engine pod tube so that t' aft o' t' spacer is even with t' mark.
  5. Reinforce t' front o' t' engine pod tube by gluin' t' other BT-5 motor block at t' very front end o' t' tube. Blimey! I also lightly sanded t' outside o' t' tube t' break t' glassine coatin' and soaked in some thin CA. Begad! T' entire thrust o' t' motor is transmitted t' t' rocket where t' front o' t' engine pod tube meets t' forward plug, me hearties, so these areas need t' be strong.
  6. Cut a length o' streamer material; mine is just over an inch wide and 2 feet long. Avast! Glue one end o' t' streamer t' t' engine pod tube just in front o' t' spacer. Arrr! Begad! T' streamer should be attached perpendicular t' t' long axis o' t' engine pod tube; it should stick straight out from t' tube like a flag in a strong wind.
  7. Set t' engine pod assembly aside for t' glue t' dry.
  • Balancing.
  1. Prepare t' engine pod by insertin' a motor and wrappin' t' streamer around t' forward part o' t' engine pod. Arrr! Begad! Insert t' engine pod into t' dart.
  2. Test t' stability o' t' rocket via t' swin' test or simply by goin' t' t' back yard and givin' it a toss. Begad! Begad! Blimey! It will probably be very unstable. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Slip a #8 sinker inside t' blue rubber tip and try it again; repeat until stable. Well, blow me down! Mine needed 2 #8 sinkers. Aye aye! Remove t' sinkers from t' tip.
  3. Carefully pry t' blue rubber tip from t' dart body. It appears t' be held on with some kind o' hot glue. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Don’t accidentally tear up t' foam! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! (we tear it up on purpose in t' next step)
  4. Gouge out a cavity inside t' front o' t' foam t' accept t' sinkers. Avast, me proud beauty! Make sure thar be enough foam left on t' sides t' cushion them. Avast, me proud beauty! Insert t' sinkers deep enough into t' foam that you can put a good dollop o' hot glue over them.
  5. Usin' t' hot glue, me bucko, reattach t' rubber tip.
  • Final construction
  1. Locate t' CG; mine is about 4" from t' aft o' t' aft o' t' dart.
  2. Draw a line parallel with t' long axis o' t' rocket at t' CG, arrr, centered betwixt 2 fins. Begad! Ya scallywag! Make t' line t' same length as your launch lug (mine is 1.25" long).
  3. Cut a slit in t' foam body o' t' dart along t' line down t' t' BT-20 tube insert.
  4. Cut a piece o' scrap balsa t' length o' your launch lug and deep enough t' fit into t' slot in t' dart for a launch lug standoff. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Notice that t' blue rubber tip is wider than t' foam dart body, me hearties, so you’ll need t' make t' standoff tall enough t' clear t' tip, too.
  5. Glue t' launch lug t' t' standoff.
  6. Glue t' launch lug assembly into slit in t' foam dart body.

Flight logs

I’ve flown t' RAP(N) three times, ya bilge rat, all successfully. T' first two flights were on A3-4T’s. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Boost was straight as an arrow with no weather cockin' at all. Ya scallywag! Begad! Blimey! Apogee was about 100 feet (I think; I’m nay too good at altitude estimation). Aye aye! Aye aye! Blimey! Ejection occurred well after apogee and gave t' rocket an interestin' kick toward t' ground as t' engine pod ejected from t' rear. T' streamer on t' engine pod unfurled nicely and recovery o' t' two pieces be very easy. T' third flight be on an A10-0T. Arrr! Blimey! T' flight profile was quite different, as t' back pressure o' t' booster engine popped t' engine pod out as t' rocket was still climbing. Begad! Blimey! T' separation o' t' dart and engine pod occurred at a fairly low altitude and were quite visible. Again, arrr, t' streamer unfurled perfectly and both parts were easy t' find. Ya scallywag! Begad! Blimey! When usin' booster motors, me bucko, I would recommend wrappin' t' streamer with a square o' recovery wadding, as it got scorched a bit.

Several o' me co-workers were anticipatin' a loud whistlin' sound, me bucko, both at launch and on recovery; however, we were all somewhat disappointed when we were unable t' hear any whistlin' at all.

BTW, me bucko, ya bilge rat, I was somewhat surprised t' discover that t' completed conversion, me bucko, arrr, without engine pod, me hearties, can still be used in t' Nerf Triple Shot!

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