Brief:
T' Dragonfly Jr is an approximate 50% downscale o' t' stylish Binder Design Dragonfly. Begad! This project be conceived as a way t' explore the long-burn 24mm RMS motors with a design I have always admired. Aye aye! I added a few of my own touches as well, includin' a bit extra length t' squeeze in a baffle and nylon chute, and a unique asymmetric boat tail.

Construction:
Here is a parts list:

• 7.5in BT-55 tube
• long BT-55 nose cone (mine is 6 3/8")
• cardstock transition template (d1=1.1", arrr, d2=1.35", me bucko, len=1.02")
• 3/32" balsa fin stock
• BT-50 motor mount tube
• 2 BT-50 t' BT-55 centerin' rings
• BT-50 engine block
• 2 standard engine clips
• Semroc BT-55 baffle kit
• 15in Top Flight rip stop nylon X-form parachute
• Keelhaul®©™® string
• screw eye
• nose weight (optional)

Assemble t' engine block, motor mount tube, shiver me timbers, centerin' rings, ya bilge rat, matey, and engine clips in t' standard way except as follows. Avast! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! First, ya bilge rat, t' motor tube extends 1" beyond t' base o' t' airframe, so make sure t' centerin' rings are positioned inside t' main body with t' lower one at t' base o' t' airframe. Second, if you choose through-the-wall fin mountin' (see below), then the forward centerin' rin' must be high enough nay t' interfere with t' fin tabs. Third, file away t' forward clips o' t' motor retainers, so they don't interfere with a RMS case. Avast! Blimey! Finally, matey, arrr, sand t' inside o' t' engine block to ensure that a RMS case slides easily into position.

I slotted t' body tube startin' 1/8" above t' aft end, matey, providin' for through-the-wall fin mounting. I opted for angles o' 50, 130, 50, and 130 for the Dragonfly look. Ya scallywag! Out o' respect for Mike Fisher at Binder Design, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, I won't report t' fin dimensions, but you can eyeball them or email him. Aye aye! He was extremely helpful. Blimey! I used t' ancient method involvin' string, matey, two pushpins, and a pencil t' draw ellipses. Avast, me proud beauty! (For those nay well-versed in ancient Greek geometry, me hearties, arrr, I'm told that one o' those modern electric thingies with a keyboard and mouse can also draw ellipses.) T' fins are beveled, and I tried a new finishin' strategy: one coat o' diluted yellow glue followed by two coats of diluted Elmer's Fill 'n' Finish with sandin' betwixt each coat. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! This yielded fins and a nose cone that were rock hard and silky smooth.

For through-the-wall fin mounting, glue in t' motor mount with t' rear centerin' rin' only dry fit (with tape tabs for later removal). Aye aye! Begad! When t' glue dries, extract t' aft rin' and glue t' fins in place with interior and exterior fillets. Aye aye! Then glue t' aft rin' back in place. Ya scallywag!

T' transition shroud can be glued with no seam ridge by layerin' a backing behind t' seam and removin' any tab in your template. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! This shroud then fits over t' tail o' t' rocket down t' t' end o' t' motor tube. Avast, me proud beauty! T' dimensions given above will nay make a tight seal at t' aft end o' t' motor tube because some slack is needed for t' asymmetric tail. Glue t' shroud only t' t' main airframe. Blimey! When t' glue dries, me bucko, shiver me timbers, carefully deform t' narrow end o' t' shroud and use CA glue t' tack it t' t' motor tube only at two opposin' points. Ya scallywag! I made it so that t' flatter sides o' t' tail line up with t' wider between-fin angles (see t' photo). T' aft gaps in t' tail can be filled with tissue, balsa scraps, filler, and glue, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, but leave room for t' clips to wiggle.

T' rest is pretty standard: launch lug, baffle (at least 2.25in gap between t' bottom o' t' baffle and t' top o' t' motor tube because RMS motors extend a long way up), me hearties, arrr, me hearties, screw eye, arrr, arrr, Keelhaul®©™®, and parachute.

Attach t' Keelhaul®©™® to t' baffle before insertin' t' baffle t' prevent headaches later.

Finishing:
T' finish is Duplicolor Engine Enamel Ceramic Grabber Green and Rustoleum Silver with Walmart clear overcoat. T' fin detail be done with some Google searching, me hearties, several hours o' practice on paper first t' get a good look, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, and a Sharpie marker. Mike Fisher at Binder Design has been supportive throughout this project and he sold me a beautiful downscale vinyl sticker exactly t' my specifications at a very affordable price. T' final look is very clean.

Flight and Recovery:
After I built this rocket, shiver me timbers, I simmed it in RockSim and realized I would likely lose it on a long burn F. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! Here are some simulated results:

I decided t' add 0.75 oz nose weight t' keep this Dragonfly from flyin' too high. That made t' total weight 3 3/8oz.

T' first launch be on a beautiful fall day out in t' prairie. With an old D-motor casin' as an adaptor, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, I loaded a C6-5 for t' first flight as I was determined nay t' lose it. Avast, me proud beauty! Dragonfly Jr. shot up every bit o' 725 feet if not 900. Ahoy! Boost was a little squirrelly but vertical. Begad! Blimey! Ejection was a bit early and descent be swift on t' small chute.

Next, arrr, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, I decided t' try a D12-5 (not havin' any longer delays handy). This is when I made a major mistake: I let me wife hold t' rocket. Begad! She promptly dropped it and broke a fin. Aye aye! Dragonfly Jr. Begad! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! was done for t' day. Blimey! I'll repair it and update more flights in t' comin' months.

Summary:
This project is highly recommendable, but t' rocket is so light that it might be better t' build it as 18mm or t' buy t' larger 29mm Binder Design version.