Brief:
I saw that Chan Stevens, me bucko, a top-notch builder and reviewer, already reviewed this kit but I wanted t' add t' it by goin' a little further into t' construction and offer more construction details. Begad! Blimey! It’s nay a “second opinion” review, me bucko, rather one t' complement Chan’s review.

Construction:
Engine Mount: Right o' t' bat I chose t' make a modification t' me build. Ya scallywag! Since this was a larger model, matey, matey, I chose t' install an Estes motor hook capable o' acceptin' an Estes E engine. Begad! If you do this, it also means that you’ll need t' do three things: add a slight bit o' nose weight, matey, build it strong, matey, and use a spacer t' use the recommended D engines. T' use an E engine clip, matey, make t' engine mount exactly as shown except move t' cut for t' hook from 2.50” t' 3.25” from t' rear.

Belly Fin Assembly: I sanded t' inside edges o' t' fins t' make them fit t' t' body tube better and give it a cleaner look. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! T' downside t' doin' this is that t' two side pieces sit slightly lower causin' you t' sand some o' t' surfaces so that they align up again. Blimey! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I used a small drum sander on a Dremel t' sand t' assembly after it was glued t' t' body tube.

T' other modification I made here was t' t' antenna dish. Since t' antenna is mounted on an angle and the notch for t' antenna is cut straight, ya bilge rat, it doesn’t fit well t' t' antenna dowel. T' solve this, I sanded t' notch in t' antenna dish on an angle. I then chose t' sand an angle in t' antenna dish for a neater, more antenna-like appearance. Ahoy! If you chose t' do this, only sand t' backside. You need t' leave t' front flat because a decal is placed here later.

Once t' belly fin assembly be mounted t' t' body tube, I sanded t' antenna sides t' fit in t' hole. The antenna is slightly wider than t' hole in t' fin assembly.

Top and Side Decks: T' plywood used in this kit is made from basswood. This strong yet light material is prone t' warping. Mine was fine when it came out o' t' kit, shiver me timbers, matey, but over t' few days it sat on me bench, it warped. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! The side decks were a particular problem because t' warp in t' wood would nay have allowed me t' keep them straight along the centerline. Begad! Luckily thar be a quick and easy fix for this. Aye aye! Ahoy! T' property o' bass wood that makes it warp, ya bilge rat, is the same property that makes it easy t' straighten it out. Avast, me proud beauty! Slightly moisten t' inward side o' t' warped piece. Begad! Don’t wet it, you just need a slight amount o' moisture. Blimey! Ahoy! This causes t' wood t' swell on t' moistened side. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! This swelling will cause that side o' t' wood t' expand and force t' wood back. Blimey! If you use too much moisture, you’ll warp it too far or cause it t' twist. Begad! Aye aye! T' before and after pictures show t' results. Once it is straight, glue it t' the rocket.

I had t' same problems with t' top deck, but I chose nay t' try t' fix it. Well, blow me down! This piece is so long that I didn’t want t' chance it. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! Instead, shiver me timbers, I used t' slight warp t' me advantage. Ya scallywag! I chose t' mount t' side up that would cause t' two ends t' be in contact with t' tube. I then only needed t' hold down t' center until t' glue set.

Pods: T' most important thin' here is t' take your time. Avast, me proud beauty! This is a difficult part o' t' build and is the coolest part o' t' kit. Make them look nice! I started mine much sooner in t' build than t' directions told me to. This allowed me t' work on them for a while and then continue t' go back t' them rather than spend t' whole build waitin' on this step. Ya scallywag! Since nothin' in t' build actually needs t' be done before you do these, doin' it this way works well. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! You’ll want t' get them just right before you cut t' slots for t' fin.

T' instructions give you some options when buildin' t' pods. Well, blow me down! Chan took t' harder, arrr, more time-consuming approach. Begad! It looks like his efforts were well rewarded. Ya scallywag! I was nay able t' get such a nice fit.

I chose t' make each pod, me hearties, start t' finish, matey, separate from t' other hopin' I would learn from doin' t' first pod and make it easier for t' second pod. Blimey! Blimey! It’s very difficult t' know where t' cut t' pods when removin' them from the sheet. I ended up cuttin' a bit too much on me first pod.

Once you have t' pods t' your liking, ya bilge rat, you need t' glue t' inner tube assembly t' t' inner side o' t' pods. Avast! Aye aye! I chose t' use an epoxy paste for this. Aye aye! Avast! Make sure you get some glue around t' area for t' fins or t' plastic will be loose after you cut them. Aye aye! Since you want t' tubes in full contact with t' inside surface o' t' pod, I chose t' lay a thin hardcover book on them while drying.

Once t' pods are dry, you’ll need t' start sandin' them. Aye aye! Sandin' t' seam down flat worked pretty well at this point. Next I wicked some thin' CA into t' seam. This ensured a good bond along t' seam and started fillin' in the gaps. Avast! While drying, there’s a point where t' CA sands t' same as t' styrene. Ya scallywag! If you wait too long t' CA will become harder than t' styrene and will be difficult t' sand. Aye aye! Blimey! I used t' styrene sheet provided t' finish off the seam.

One o' t' tools I use for detail sandin' is emery boards. Blimey! I buy packs o' them at t' dollar store. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! T' grit is about right for detail work and their straight flat shape works well in many instances. Blimey! Aye aye! Sandin' t' seam on t' pods is a perfect application for them.

I covered t' end o' t' pods with a piece o' t' styrene sheet. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Cut a piece from t' supplied styrene sheet and bend a crease as shown. Ahoy! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Usin' model glue, matey, ya bilge rat, glue t' piece t' t' end o' t' pods. Ahoy! Blimey! Once t' glue is set, matey, trim and sand for a seamless fit.

Finishing:
T' kit comes with a balsa nose cone. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! T' one that came with t' kit is as nice as they come, me hearties, but I don’t like balsa nose cones. Arrr! My problem with them (especially t' larger ones) is that you seal, arrr, sand, me bucko, prime, sand, fill, matey, me hearties, sand to get a good finish. Begad! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! After all that work, me bucko, ya bilge rat, a slight bump dents it. Ahoy! T' other thin' is that you can never get t' shoulder as nice as a plastic one. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! I replaced it with an exact replica made from polystyrene. This also gave me some space to add t' nose weight need for E engines.

I was in t' same boat as Chan when it came t' findin' t' gray paint, ya bilge rat, so I did go with white. Begad! Begad! This turned out to be a mistake. Well, blow me down! Some o' t' decals are very slightly gray in color themselves. This causes t' clear areas t' be noticeably different than t' paint. Aye aye! Be sure t' trim t' decals as close as possible. Blimey! Ahoy! Some o' t' decals just barely fit on t' surface where they are t' be placed.