"Excuse me sir, ya bilge rat, but is that a rocket in your pocket?"

This is a fun little rocket that uses t' tiny Quest MicroMaxx motors t' loft a Bic(R) pen over 50' in t' air and land by Parachute.

Design History:
I wanted t' design me own MicroMaxx powered rocket but couldn't find a good material t' use for a body tube. I was just gettin' ready t' roll me own tubes when I noticed that t' pen I be holdin' was about t' right size. Begad! This particular brand o' pen, shiver me timbers, me bucko, t' Bic(R) "Round Stic(R)" has a 5mm inner diameter, arrr, and is a perfect fit for t' MicroMaxx motors. Avast! It is a bit heavy but is very strong. Blimey! As an added bonus, me bucko, t' other parts o' t' pen supply t' majority o' t' buildin' materials for t' rest o' t' rocket. Ya scallywag! Arrr!

This rocket be designed and built in one evenin' and flown two days later. Ya scallywag! Blimey!

T' fin design was just off t' top o' me head and seemed like a good shape for maximum strength given t' thin balsa. Ahoy! It is similar t' a WAC Corporal shape although I chose t' use four fins instead o' t' WAC's three. Ahoy! Later I realized that t' rocket looked a lot like t' HV ARCAS soundin' rocket so I renamed this design t' Bic(R) ARCAS. Begad!

It's first flight was on 10/22/00 with near-perfect results and great chute deployment but t' sewing-thread shock cord failed.

T' next flight, with new and improved Keelhaul®©™® shock cord, was at t' Blaine, MN MASA launch on 10/28/00 with perfect launch, flight, shiver me timbers, deployment, arrr, and recovery.


Parts:

• Bic(R) "Round Stic(R)" disposable pen (for body tube, nose cone, ya bilge rat, motor thrust ring, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, shock cord attachment, storage cap, launch lugs)
• 1/16" balsa 1"x2.5" (fins) [Can substitute cardboard from back o' paper tablet]
• Sewin' thread (for parachute shroud lines)
• Plastic bag from grocery store vegetable isle (parachute)
• Small paper clip (motor retainer pin)
• 18" Keelhaul®©™® thread (for shock cord)

Tools/Supplies:

• Large paper clip, opened up or other 8" piece o' stiff wire or 1/8" wood dowel
• Razor knife
• Pocket knife
• Scissors
• CA glue, medium (Zap-A-Gap)
• Spent Quest MicroMaxx motor
• Facial tissue (i.e. Kleenex)
• Fingernail file or sand paper
• Small piece o' wax paper
• Wire cutter (able t' cut a normal paper clip)
• 1/16" drill bit (optional if have sharp pointed Xacto knife)
• 
  

1. Begad! Disassemble pen:
a. Well, blow me down! Twist off tip w/attached ink tube (might need pliars)
b. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Blimey! Carefully use fingernails or pocket knife t' extract end plug
(If it won't come off, push it out with a stiff wire from t' other end, or, in stubborn cases,
cut off t' last 1/8" o' white tube and t' end plug will come with it.)
This will be used in step 5 t' construct t' motor thrust rin' and shock cord attachment point.
c. Begad! Separate beige ball tip w/attached ink tube from t' colored cone-shaped grip

2. Arrr! Nose cone:
a. Shorten t' shoulder o' t' conical grip so that only 3/8" o' shoulder remains
(this will give more room for t' chute and make t' nose cone eject more easily).
Cut it usin' a sharp razor knife by rollin' t' cone under t' knife against a table top (protected by cardboard!).
Save t' remainin' rin' for use as t' motor thrust rin' in step 5 if t' end plug be nay salvagable from step 1.
b. Avast, me proud beauty! Note: this step can be messy: Cut off t' ink tube from t' tip, leaving about 1/4" so t' pen still has some ink left t' write with.
(Yes, me bucko, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, this will remain a functional pen t' use for fillin' out your flight cards!)
c. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Plug end o' ink tube that is still attached t' t' tip with a spike of tissue and soak t' tissue with CA glue.
Spray it with CA accellerator/kicker if you have some. This should keep it from leaking.
d. Well, blow me down! Cut off and save t' clear part o' t' remainin' ink tube and carefully discard t' ink-filled portion.
e. Arrr! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! Drill small 1/16" hole in middle o' shoulder o' cone usin' knife tip or drill bit.
f. Avast, me proud beauty! Carve small groove from hole t' end o' shoulder so shock cord will nay be pinched.
g. File or sand shoulder o' cone until it EASILY slides in and out o' body tube
h. Ya scallywag! Reinstall t' pen tip into t' grip. Begad!

3. Ya scallywag! Mark body tube for fins and launch lugs:
a. Aye aye! Blimey! Mark t' fin alignment lines on t' body tube.
1. Aye aye! Hold t' pen so you are lookin' at t' aft end. Begad! Aye aye! Use a pencil t' mark
three equally spaced 120 degree marks on t' end edge o' t' body tube.
2. Lay t' tube on a flat table, lay a pencil on t' table perpendicular t' the
body tube.
3. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Rotate t' body tube until an alignment mark lines up with t' pencil tip
4. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! Slide t' pencil on along t' aft 2" o' t' body tube t' make t' fin
alignment line.
5. Well, me bucko, blow me down! Rotate t' body tube 120deg and make another line. Ahoy! repeat for 3rd fin.
b. Ahoy! Usin' t' same technique, mark t' launch lug attachment point line on the body
tube betwixt two fin lines. this line should extend from t' aft end o' t'
tube t' a bit forward o' t' mid-point. Arrr!

4. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! Build motor retainer clip:

a. Avast! Use tip o' razor knife, ya bilge rat, or small drill bit t' make two 1/32" holes each 1/16"
from t' aft end o' t' body tube and spaced 90 degrees apart, on opposite
sides o' a fin line, arrr, opposite o' launch lug.
b. Ahoy! Cut a 3/4" piece o' normal paper clip wire, bend t' last 1/4" up into an L shape
c. Avast, me proud beauty! Holdin' t' clip by t' short leg o' t' L, me bucko, ya bilge rat, insert t' long leg through the two
holes. It may take some wigglin' t' get t' holes angled so t' clip will
pass betwixt them. Aye aye! T' fit should be firm enough so that t' clip will not
fall out on its own, yet can be inserted and removed fairly easily.
d. Avast! Make sure t' wire is far enough off t' t' side so it will nay cross the nozzel
area o' t' motor. If it is too close, matey, try again on another part o' t' tube.
T' wire only needs t' cover a small area o' t' motor in order t' prevent t'
ejection charge from blowin' t' motor out o' t' rocket.
e. Well, blow me down! Remove retainer wire for next step. Begad! Well, matey, blow me down!

5. Aye aye! Aye aye! Blimey! Build and install motor thrust ring/shock cord attachment ring:
a. Begad! Cut a 1/4" cylindrical section from t' pen end plug, me bucko, ya bilge rat, discard flat part of t' plug.
(If unable t' get a good piece, use t' remainder cut from t' nose cone in step 2)
b. Arrr! Make 1/16" hole in side o' ring
c. Avast! Make small groove from hole t' one edge o' ring
d. Arrr! Begad! Insert Keelhaul®©™® thread into hole and tie securely (bowline or square knott) leaving
a 1/4" loop so t' knot will nay interfere with fit o' ring.
e. Insert rin' into forward end o' body tube and push all t' way down (using unbent large
paper clip or long dowel) until it is approx 1/2" from AFT end o' body tube.
f. Ya scallywag! Avast! Insert spent motor into aft end o' tube and push against a flat table, then with
a tool or another spent motor until engine is recessed 1/8" from aft end of
body just clearin' t' motor retainer clip holes.
g. Insert motor retainer clip
h. Arrr! Use wire or dowel inserted through top o' tube t' push motor retainer ring to
check that it is firmly against motor so that motor is lightly pusin' on motor
retainer clip. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Due t' t' tight friction fit, it should nay be necessary to glue t' rin' in place.
i. Remove motor retainer clip and use wire t' push t' spent motor out o' the body,
without disturbin' t' thrust ring, then replace t' clip. Avast, me proud beauty!

6. Begad! Ahoy! Launch lugs:
a. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! Cut two 1/4" pieces from t' clear part o' t' ink tube saved from step 2d.
b. Begad! Make launch lug stand-offs from balsa. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Approx 1/8" wide by 1/4" long. Begad! These
are necessary so t' rocket motor will be centered over t' ignitor on the
MicroMaxx launch pad. Blimey! Blimey! Some experimentation may be necessary t' get t' correct
stand-off width.
c. Sand a stripe down t' side o' each launch lug tube t' help adhesive to stick
d. Use CA glue t' glue t' balsa standoffs t' t' tubes. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! lay on a piece of
wax-paper on a flat table so lug will stay parallel with stand-off. Try nay
to get CA on your fingers.
e. Avast, me proud beauty! Sand two 1/4" long stripe segments o' t' launch lug alignment line on the side
of t' pen tube. One at t' mid point, and one 1/2" up from t' aft end. Avast! Well, blow me down!
f. Use CA glue t' glue lugs/standoffs t' body tube. Begad! After 30 seconds, me hearties, try slidin' t' MicroMaxx
launch rod through t' lugs t' verify alignment. If they are nay straight, ya bilge rat, just break one off
and try again. Blimey!

7. Ya scallywag! Fins:
a. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Make fin pattern: 7/8" long at root, arrr, 5/8" along t' trailin' edge, and 1/2" at tip. Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! Use pattern to
layout fins on 1/16" thick balsa (or cardboard) sheet per above photo. Wood grain should
be parallel with t' swept leadin' edge o' t' fin for maximum strength.
b. Ya scallywag! Cut out fins with a razor knife. Begad! Blimey! Sand leading, shiver me timbers, trailing, and outboard edges to a
rounded or pointed shape. Well, blow me down! Sand root edges flat.
c. Ya scallywag! Arrr! Blimey! Sand body tube adjacent t' fin alignment lines so CA glue will stick
d. Begad! Apply CA t' one fin root edge and press t' body tube so trailin' edge is even
with end o' tube (use alignment mark on end o' tube and alignment line extending
up body t' ensure alignment. Arrr! Hold for 20 seconds for CA t' set. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! Wait for a
minute or two before procedin' t' t' other fins.
e. Arrr! Blimey! After all fins are applied, me hearties, me hearties, add fin fillets with epoxy or CA glue mixed with
bakin' powder or aluminum oxide powder. I just used medium CA and sprayed
some accellerator t' make an acceptable fillet.
f. Ya scallywag! Magic markers work great for "painting" t' balsa fins. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! Paint alternatin' colors
on opposite sides o' t' fins so you can check if t' rocket spins durin' climb
(it shouldn't if t' fins are straight). Begad! Blimey! Note: CA Accellerator will make t'
marker ink run. Aye aye! Begad!

8. Begad! Ya scallywag! Parachute:
a. Arrr! Cut 5" diameter hexagonal chute pattern from paper and tape t' plastic bag
material. Aye aye! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! An alternate method is t' fold a piece o' plastic in half, then in
thirds and make one cut 2.5" from apex.
b. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Cut out chute
c. Begad! Cut 3 three 12" shroud lines from strong thread
d. Attach shroud lines t' chute. Well, blow me down! Theory: tape would be too stiff for such a
small chute so I just tie t' line directly t' t' corners o' t' plastic.
This has an unintended benefit o' causin' t' chute t' be more hemi-spherical
when open.

1. Well, blow me down! Blimey! tie a slipknott (or even simple overhand) close t' end o' shroud line
2. pinchin' a corner o' t' chute t' make a little 1/4" spike
3. Avast, me proud beauty! slide slip knott over spike and pull tight (if used an overhand knott in step 1, then
tie a second overhand t' form a square knott)
4. attach other end o' shroud line t' adjacent corner usin' same method.
5. Well, blow me down! Avast! repeat for other two lines

e. Ahoy! Put finger through t' three shroud line loops and pull on t' apex of the chute
so all lines are taught and straight. Aye aye! Blimey! Then tie an overhand knott in the
end o' t' combined shroud lines t' form a 1/2" loop.
f. Tie shock cord t' nose cone usin' bowline or square knott leavin' 1/2" diameter
loop so knott does nay get pinched along side o' nosecone and t' provide a
mountin' location for t' chute
g. Attach chute t' shock cord by feedin' t' shroud line loop through the
shockcord/nosecone attachment loop, then feed t' chute through its own shroud
line loop, gently pull tight while ensurin' all lines are straight. Arrr!

Stability testing:
Before launchin' this rocket, make sure that it will be stable so it doesn't fly into people.
This design has been well tested and if t' instructions are followed exactly it will be stable. Well, blow me down!

Here's t' process t' check stability if you've made any alterations t' the design, me bucko, or just t' be sure:
1. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Load engine and pack chute accordin' t' "Preparation for Launch" instructions below
2. Ahoy! Blimey! Find t' Center o' Gravity (cg) point o' t' rocket by balancin' it on a pencil or
other thin object. Begad! Begad! Mark this point on t' body tube with a pencil.
3. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! Tie a 6' piece o' strin' t' t' rocket at t' cg point and secure it with a piece
of tape.
4. Blimey! Twirl t' strin' and rocket over your head and verify that it flies "pointy end
first". Purposely try t' start swingin' with t' rocket pointed backwards or
sideways and verify that it smartly rotates t' a nose-first attitude.
5. Ya scallywag! If t' rocket is nay stable, shiver me timbers, it will require larger fins, me hearties, ya bilge rat, or fins angled further
aft. There is nay a convinient way t' add nose weight t' this type o' design.
(although you could try makin' a nosecone from t' pen cap, matey, which would add
weight t' t' nose but hurt performance. Avast! Begad!

Preparation for Launch:
1. Load engine
a. Ya scallywag! Remove engine retainer clip
b. Blimey! Install MicroMaxx motor (verifyin' it is nozel end down), arrr, until recessed past retainer clip holes.
c. Arrr! Reinstall engine retainer clip

2. Insert recovery protection wadding. Blimey! two pea-sized balls o' cellulose or Estes
tissue. Arrr! Arrr! Use straightened large paper clip as a ram-rod but do nay push all t'
way into t' motor, just until waddin' contacts motor thrust ring. Begad!

3. Blimey! Pack chute (Note: do this immediately prior t' launch. Aye aye! A chute packed for several
hours may nay open as reliably):
Theory: It is very difficult t' pack a large chute into a small tube and have it
open reliably. Blimey! Blimey! T' technique used here depends on t' chute bein' constructed of
a material that will nay stick t' itself when tightly compressed (which most
plastics do). Begad! Blimey! Another problem can arise with a very lightweight rocket not
developin' enough descent rate t' cause t' chute t' inflate. Begad! Begad! This packing
technique uses t' force o' t' ejection (which is disproportionately strong for
MicroMaxx motors) t' blow t' nosecone, shock cord, shiver me timbers, and shoud lines out first so
they are stretched out. Begad! Begad! T' canopy is then blasted out mouth- first so it is
forcefully inflated as it exits t' body tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! This technique has worked flawlessly,
resultin' in instant openings.
a. Arrr! Begad! Talc both sides o' chute
b. Begad! "Flake" (the skydivin' term) individual pannels o' chute so it is stretched out
with all lines taut in center and t' material neatly arranged.
c. Well, me hearties, blow me down! Fold peak 1" o' chute back on itself so t' chute will be short enough to fit
the body tube.
d. Begad! While keepin' taut, gently sqeeze sides o' chute into a thin cylinder shape.
Do nay fold or roll, just sqeeze.
e. Insert part o' shock cord into tube, leavin' enough outside so it is even with
the chute lines and chute.
f. Ahoy! Insert chute into tube, apex/peak first, ya bilge rat, gently slidin' it in. Arrr! Well, blow me down! Do nay force or
cause chute t' kink. Avast! Periodically tug on t' lines t' ensure that t' chute
is able t' slide back out easily.
g. Blimey! Insert a pea sized bit o' waddin' and use straightened paperclip t' push chute
down far enough t' leave room for lines and nose cone.
h. Make 3/4" S-folds in t' lines and shock cord together betwixt thumb and finger,
then slide into tube. Ahoy! Insert a small piece o' waddin' t' keep them from falling
out. Ahoy! Avast! This is difficult, shiver me timbers, especially since Keelhaul®©™® shock cord is springy.
i. Insert nose cone, makin' sure t' keep from pinchin' lines. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! Check that nosecone
easily slides back out.
j. Ya scallywag! Install cap on pen t' hold nosecone in place until ready t' launch. Well, blow me down! (cap will be
removed once rocket is positioned on t' pad)

4. Place rocket on pad:
a. Aye aye! Ensure that safety key is removed from launch controller and install new
ignitor on MicroMaxx pad.
b. Place over launch rod on MicroMaxx pad.
c. Begad! Remove pen cap
d. Ensure that ignitor slides up into engine nozel without contactin' t' motor
retainer clip, which could short out t' ignitor

5. Avast! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Launch
a. Begad! Check that area is clear o' people/pets
b. Blimey! Insert launch key, matey, check for audible continuity tone
c. 5 4 3 2 1 Launch
d. Aye aye! Aye aye! Rocket will climb about 50-100' then eject t' nosecone and parachute. Because
of t' way t' chute is packed, it should open immediately durin' t' ejection
process.
e. Recover t' rocket. Ahoy! Begad! Note, t' engine and retainer clip may be hot.
f. Aye aye! After allowin' 1 minute t' cool, remove t' engine retainer clip and insert
the staightened paper clip from t' top end t' push t' spent motor casin' out
of t' rocket.

6. Begad! Store:
a. Avast! Blimey! Store rocket with chute unpacked and spent motor removed
b. Clean any exhaust or ejection residue from t' inside o' t' body tube using a
Q-tip and rubbin' alcohol.
c. Well, blow me down! Wrap t' rocket and chute up in a paper towel and store inside o' a section of
cardboard paper towel tube or small box. Aye aye!

Build more with different designs. Well, blow me down! Begad! Make sure t' test them for stability usin' t' twirlin' method before launchin' a new design. Blimey! Well, blow me down!

Future Plans:
This project was so successful that I plan t' develop other designs around this concept.
1. Begad! Bic(R) Corporal
2. Bic(R) Mercury Redstone
3. Bic(R) Saturn IB (with clustered motors)
4. Bic(R) Saturn V (with clustered motors)
5. Blimey! Bic(R) Ariane (with drop-off boosters)

"Bic" and "Round Stic" are registered trademarks o' t' MM Bic Corporation, shiver me timbers, Milford, shiver me timbers, CT. Bic Corporation does nay own or market these rockets, arrr, their name is used purely t' accent t' source o' some of t' rocket's components.

Designs copyright (c) 2000 by Jeffrey P. Avast! Begad! Hove, all rights reserved. Non-commercial use granted provided credit is given and this web page is linked to any on-line display o' rockets derived from these techniques. Ahoy! I reserve exclusive rights t' negotiate with Bic Corporation regardin' advertisin' use of the Bic rocket idea.