Brief:
This is a very cool lookin' futuristic mini-roc based upon t' FlisKits Herc-5 and features many o' t' same design features such as scalloped/nested tubes, arrr, sci-fi command ship styling, and fantastic graphics/decals.

Construction:
As is typical o' t' Micro-to-the-Maxx line, me bucko, t' kit comes packed up in a small plastic bag. Well, blow me down! Begad! Parts were very good quality although t' balsa nose cone was a tad rougher than be t' norm from FlisKits. Blimey! Parts list includes:

• Balsa nose cone
• BT-3 tube (forward compartment)
• BT-2 tube (forward tube)
• BT-2.5 tube (main/aft tube)
• BT-20s (tube fins)
• Balsa fin stock
• Toothpick (trim)
• Centerin' rings/motor block
• Keelhaul®©™ thread shock cord
• Plastic streamer
• Waterslide decals
• Pattern sheet

T' instructions are written mostly on one side o' a letter sized sheet o' paper with helpful illustrations. Well, blow me down! T' back side o' t' sheet includes a couple finishin' steps as well as tips/techniques for launch preparation for those nay familiar with t' unique challenges o' workin' with 6mm motors. Ahoy! T' kit is rated as a skill level 2.5, shiver me timbers, which strikes me as about right, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, given t' intricate tube shapes involved. I'd estimate me total build time be about 4 hours plus finishing, matey, but that involved some issues unique t' bein' among t' first t' build this product.

I strongly advise a careful readin' o' t' directions before t' build and even more closely readin' them durin' t' build. It's nay that this is that complex, shiver me timbers, but it is a far enough departure from typical 3FNC construction that you'll be on unfamiliar ground, and very little about this construction falls under t' instinct/that-looks-about-right approach.

A BT-2.5 tube serves as t' motor tube and main body tube. Begad! Ahoy! There are a pair o' BT-20s that get scalloped (tapered) on each end and slotted. Aye aye! Aye aye! T' two BT-20s then slide together through t' slots, and t' assembly slides over t' BT-2.5. Avast! This process is one o' those phases where it's critical t' pay attention t' t' illustrations and instructions. On me kit, t' BT-20s were too short, but I understand this is bein' corrected.

T' forward tube subassembly is a bit easier. Aye aye! Avast! It consists o' a BT-2 tube and a pair o' centerin' rings at t' forward end, shiver me timbers, which serve as an anchor point for t' Keelhaul®©™ thread. Well, blow me down! A scalloped BT-3 tube then slides over t' centerin' rings, and t' subassembly slides into t' forward end o' t' lower BT-2.5 tube.

There are a couple o' fins hand cut from balsa stock, which go in t' gap betwixt matin' BT-20 tubes. These each get little toothpick guns as trim.

T' nose cone is attached t' t' shock cord via a little brad, ya bilge rat, however, I personally prefer t' just use t' brad t' make t' hole, shiver me timbers, me bucko, me bucko, which I then fill with glue, matey, and then use t' brad t' poke a knotted end o' cord into. Aye aye! T' glue tends t' grab t' cord a lot better than a metal nail.

Finishing:
I'll admit I was a bit lazy with this one, ya bilge rat, since I was buildin' it on t' road in hotel rooms, so I skipped t' usual spiral and grain filling/sandin' festival. Instead, I hit it with a couple coats o' black primer, sanded down a bit, then two coats o' Rustoleum sparklin' metallic silver. Blimey! T' black undercoat really helps give t' silver metallic a kick.

T' decals really help make this a fantastic lookin' model, shiver me timbers, matey, but they are a bit o' work. Blimey! Each has t' be carefully cut from t' sheet, and they're tiny. I used tweezers t' apply them, then a little Microscale settin' solution t' make sure they grabbed.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
When dealin' with t' MTTM line, shiver me timbers, you aren't exactly goin' t' have t' put much thought into motor selection--it's just Quest MMXs. Just be sure you use one with an ejection charge, me bucko, as they now offer an "NE" version with no ejection that looks identical t' t' regular motor.

In any case, I loaded up t' MMX and wound up havin' t' cut away about 6" o' t' streamer in order t' get it loose enough that I'd trust it t' deploy. Well, blow me down! I think this could tumble safely, me bucko, but I was goin' t' be flyin' adjacent t' some dense/tall growth (18-24" tall), ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, and really wanted t' make sure t' red streamer was deployed for recovery help.

I dropped t' HEMV-4 onto a standard Quest launch pad (for MMXs), hooked up me 12V leads, and fired away. Ahoy! Blimey! It lit on first attempt and had a nice gentle flight t' about 60-80 feet apogee. Most micros zip up so fast they're difficult t' track, shiver me timbers, matey, but this one be slow enough t' follow t' whole way.

Recovery:
T' streamer deployed fine, although with t' -1 delay (the only choice available), me bucko, matey, shiver me timbers, it was definitely too early. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! It had another good 1-2 seconds o' coast left in it.

T' streamer is more decorative (and supports findin' it on t' ground), matey, me hearties, and t' mostly tumble recovery was just fine. Begad! T' model be recovered with no flaws.

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
This is another cool addition t' t' Micro-To-The-Maxx line. PROs would be cool stylin' and slightly challengin' build techniques involved. Avast! T' only CONs I can offer up are t' sure-to-be-corrected body tube gaffe and t' oversize streamer, which is easily handled if it remains t' current length.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5