For value in boost gliders you'll be hard pressed t' beat AstronMike's saucer tripak. Begad! Begad! T' tripak comes with three sizes o' saucer style boost gliders. Arrr! These sport boost gliders are unique in that that work by ejectin' weight other than t' an engine pod. Well, blow me down! T' key be t' payload section (PS) which, me bucko, ya bilge rat, via a tube coupler, ya bilge rat, fits into t' rest o' t' glider's main engine tube section. This PS has weight installed in t' form o' a permanently glued in spent engine casing. It's this weight that gives each saucer a boost CG forward o' t' saucer section's leadin' edge. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Once t' ejection charge goes off, ya bilge rat, me bucko, t' motor stays and the PS ejects recoverin' via streamer. It's this lost weight that shifts t' CG aft and induces a glide. Well, blow me down! Ahoy!

Unpackin' t' saucers reveals their components. T' three saucer sections are precut from an art and crafts material called ArtCor. This is a lightweight style foam board that has slick plastic sides sandwichin' t' foam. There is no attempt made t' cut these as 'perfect circles'. It's all rough cut. Well, blow me down! Avast! If you require symmetry in your life, arrr, ya bilge rat, arrr, you'll have to clean up t' edges yourself. Begad! T' saucer's dihedrals were prebent by NA. Begad! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! NA also sets t' maskin' taped gluin' surfaces on each. Begad! My tripak also came with engine tube standoffs and launch lugs preglued on. Ya scallywag! T' engine tubes are rough hacked as are t' payload tubes. Aye aye! Cleanin' up t' edges on t' payload tubes is made more difficult because t' "tube couplers" are already glued in.

T' instructions are bare bones and appear t' be written in Windows 95 Wordpad. Begad! There are no diagrams in t' instructions. They are concise but assume prior kit buildin' experience and IMO, me hearties, prior B/G experience. Begad! Blimey! Roundin' out the tripak parts are t' red plastic streamer material, plastic and wood nose cones for t' payload sections, and a long strip o' chrome heatin' duct tape. 

Because NA did so much o' t' work for me, ya bilge rat, it took less than a few hours t' put together t' saucers. Ya scallywag! Most o' that time is spent waitin' for glue t' dry. Begad! You glue on t' fixed engine tubes t' the standoffs on t' saucers. Then you glue t' rudders t' t' masked area on the bottoms, ya bilge rat, and attach t' streamers t' t' payload section couplers. Next you reinforce t' rudder t' saucer joint with t' supplied chrome tape. Arrr! I also put a strip over t' entire saucer, me hearties, standoff, matey, engine tube joint. Begad! Finally you place a strip o' t' tape on t' top aft section o' t' saucer t' keep t' engine flame from meltin' t' saucer. Ya scallywag! I was so impressed with t' holdin' power o' the tape I went out t' Home Depot and bought a roll for me own use! You could put together whole B/G's or R/G's with this stuff! 

Now it's time t' trim t' glider sections. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! I installed burnt engine casings and balanced t' saucers about where NA marked them on t' saucers. Avast! I used flatten lead fishin' sinkers and taped them t' t' forward engine tube edges as needed. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! T' CG is marked about a third o' t' way back from t' leadin' edge of the saucers. Begad! I gave them a toss. Now you learn a drawback t' this design. Ya scallywag! Arrr! If the glider stalls or dives, matey, it hits t' ground on t' engine tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Guess what crumples? Yup. Well, blow me down! T' tubing. It happened on both t' two larger saucers. I wound up replacin' both tubes. Well, blow me down! Arrr! I gave up tryin' t' trim them this way. Avast! Instead I made sure t' boost C/G's were at or ahead o' t' leadin' edges and trimmed them by observin' t' glides durin' actual launches. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! This proved a better tactic though one or two stalls near t' ground can still crumple t' tubing, me hearties, and did. Avast! These were repaired with split sections o' tubin' glued over t' original. O' course this adds weight which means re-trimmin' t' gliders! (lather rinse and repeat)

Once trimmed t' flight characteristics of these sport gliders are nothin' less than superb. Unlike most boost gliders they boost like rockets nay like drunken airplanes. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Blimey! They attain much more height than most gliders. Ya scallywag! Blimey! They are very reliable and have never red-baroned (glider gets caught in t' payload section's (or pod's) recovery system). Ahoy! Their glide is smooth and quite good once trimmed. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! So far my best time has been close t' 40 seconds in dead air with t' smallest saucer on a 1/2A. Ahoy! In good thermal conditions thar be little doubt you can lose them. Arrr! And best o' all they are crowd pleasers! You'll be a big hit at launches as they always draw stares!

I had seen messages from Astron Mike about his flyin' saucers on RMR, arrr, shiver me timbers, but I couldn't quite visualize what he was describin' with text. Begad! Then, he offered a tri-pack o' his saucers for a reasonable price and, since I love boost gliders, I decided to try them out. 

I placed me order with Mike durin' t' week before Christmas and me order appeared within t' week - arrivin' on Monday. Unfortunately, t' Post Awful was nay kind t' t' package. Arrr! T' saucers were pretty much OK, shiver me timbers, although the 13.0" one had some crimps in t' ArtCor material, arrr, arrr, but several o' t' body tubes were crushed. Fortunately, I had some spare BT-20 available t' replace the damaged tubing. Blimey!

T' kit consists o' three saucer wings (7-1/2", 10-1/2" and 13" diameters) with balsa body-tube stand-offs, three booster body tubes (one BT-5 for t' 7-1/2" saucer and two BT-20 for t' 10-1/2" and 13" saucers) and two payload sections (one BT-5 and one BT-20 for t' two larger saucers). Arrr! Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' payload sections are pre-built and use an expended motor for t' joiner with a piece o' Keelhaul®©™® line attached so that it comes out the center o' t' casin' for attachin' a streamer for recovery. Arrr! Blimey!

Mike does nay include engine hooks with this kit. Well, blow me down! Avast! He recommends friction fittin' t' motor with maskin' tape, but I prefer more positive retention and added retainin' hooks. Arrr!

T' dihedral o' t' saucer wings had gotten pretty well flattened out and when I re-creased t' win' center, t' body-tube stand-off popped off. They had been glued with yellow glue t' maskin' tape attached t' t' ArtCor and t' glue did nay hold t' t' maskin' tape. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! I e-mailed Mike and he told me he had attached them that way t' try t' save us (the buyer) some construction time. Since t' joint did nay hold, he advised me t' attach t' stand-off with some epoxy, which seems t' have made a much better connection. Arrr!

Mike included some metal (chrome?) tape with t' kit which I used for attachin' t' rudder and weightin' t' nose o' t' body tube. Blimey! One o' t' other early purchaser's reported some charrin' o' t' saucer wings on launch, so I bought a roll o' t' metal tape at t' hardware store and I'm usin' a strip down t' centerline t' protect t' saucer surface. Ahoy!

Remember t' adjust t' balance and re-test t' glide AFTER you have completed buildin' t' saucer. Aye aye! ;-) So far, me hearties, arrr, I've got t' 7-1/2" and the 10-1/2" saucers adjusted and ready for initial launch. Aye aye! See t' launch reports for how they fly. 

I have only one other minor nit t' pick, which I found on me first launch. T' streamer got pushed up into t' motor-casin' joiner at t' base o' the payload section and could nay deploy. I'll mix some tissue and glue t' fill this in so it won't happen again.