Brief:
I purchased three Quest Commander kits on clearance at Hobby Lobby, matey, for a total o' about $8.50. Avast, me proud beauty! Since I had three o' everything, I decided t' use all three body tubes t' build one long Commander. Also, I changed t' fin configuration from 3FNC to, as it turned out, 8FNC.

Modifications:
I assembled t' motor mount accordin' t' t' kit instructions, usin' white glue.

Since t' engine block has a v-notch cut into it for mountin' t' shock cord while still allowin' t' motor mount t' fit into t' BT, I also strengthened t' engine block with thin CA. This is a pretty standard step for me anyway, but it's worth notin' here since t' engine block's structural integrity has been compromised by cuttin' into it. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' motor hook is mounted in t' usual Quest/Estes fashion, by insertin' it into a 1/8" slit cut into t' motor tube just below t' engine block.

I then glued t' motor mount into t' first body tube with white glue, leavin' 1/4" protrudin' from t' end o' t' BT accordin' t' t' instructions. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! This is a near-minimum-diameter rocket, me bucko, so thar are no centerin' rings.

Here's where I deviated from t' stock assembly instructions for t' Commander. Well, blow me down! I took one o' t' spare motor tubes and cut it in half by markin' t' midline with a pencil, then lightly pressin' t' blade o' me hobby knife against t' pencil line while turnin' t' tube several times. Arrr! After a few turns, t' tube be cut nicely in half, me hearties, makin' two body tube couplers. Ya scallywag! Usin' white glue, arrr, arrr, shiver me timbers, I glued one coupler into t' top end o' t' first body tube, matey, me hearties, and t' second coupler into one end o' t' second body tube.

Once those joints were dry, I then used white glue t' glue t' second and third body tubes onto t' couplers, givin' me a 30" long body. Begad! Here's another different technique that I used for t' first time on this model, matey, since t' couplers were fairly short. I fitted half a sheet o' copier paper around t' first body tube and taped it together t' make a snug wrap that could be slid along t' body tube. Arrr! Then at each body tube t' body tube joint, I slid this "alignment wrap" over t' joint until t' glue dried. Aye aye! What I intended be for t' body tubes t' be aligned really well at each joint, and it looks like it worked perfectly. Ahoy! Arrr! Also, matey, t' seams look really nice, ya bilge rat, me hearties, shiver me timbers, too. Nothin' out o' round, shiver me timbers, and no gaps betwixt t' ends o' t' body tubes.

T' Commander's instructions tell you t' feed t' shock cord back through t' motor tube before you glue t' tube into t' body, ya bilge rat, so it won't accidentally get glued into t' body. Avast! Now, since I had a 30" long tube for t' body, me bucko, arrr, I needed t' add two more sections t' t' shock cord. Aye aye! Usin' t' Keelhaul®©™ cords from t' other two Commander kits and tyin' them together and then t' t' end o' t' Keelhaul®©™ cord already attached t' t' motor mount, matey, I had a Keelhaul®©™ cord that extended about 3" past t' end o' t' body, me bucko, once I fed it forward through t' body so I could attach t' elastic shock cord t' it.

I tied a 1" loop in t' end o' t' Keelhaul®©™ and then tied t' elastic cord t' t' loop. Blimey! That way, shiver me timbers, I didn't have 3" o' nice thin Keelhaul®©™ ready t' slice through t' end o' t' body tube. Ya scallywag! For t' elastic part o' t' shock cord, arrr, I tied two o' t' provided 18" lengths o' elastic together. Aye aye! Avast! Blimey! Then I tied t' nose cone t' t' end o' t' elastic per t' standard instructions.

All that was left were t' fins.

T' stock Commander has 3 die-cut balsa fins set 120 degrees apart. Aye aye! Blimey! Two fins are larger and swept forward, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, and t' fin that's shown as t' vertical tailfin on t' packagin' is smaller and swept backward. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I decided t' use 4 o' t' large fins set 90 degrees apart, with two horizontal fins swept forward and two vertical fins swept backward.

Later, after usin' VCP t' find t' CG and CP o' this rocket, I found that it was *extremely* overstable, with t' CG more than 10 body diameters (calibers) in front o' t' CP. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' reduce this, me bucko, I did two things: I reduced t' span o' t' 4 large fins by cuttin' 1/2" off their tips, and I added a set o' 4 o' t' smaller fins from t' Commander kits right at t' CG o' t' rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! Reducin' t' span o' t' large fins didn't really move t' CP very much, although t' model does look better with those fins a little smaller. Begad! Addin' t' smaller fins further forward on t' body did t' trick, though. VCP says that t' CG is now about 3 calibers in front o' t' CP. Blimey! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! Blimey! Now very nicely stable, but nay extremely so, ya bilge rat, so I went with this configuration.

Sandin' and mountin' o' t' fins is standard, although I ran medium CA glue along all fin edges t' harden them, and then sanded t' edges smooth. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! I mounted t' fins t' t' body usin' CA glue and then added fillets o' white glue in two passes t' get decent-lookin' fillets. Avast, me proud beauty! I also used a technique I learned here at EMRR, which is t' punch small holes in t' BT along t' line where t' fins will be mounted, t' strengthen t' bond by creatin' glue "rivets" along t' BT. Begad! This also causes t' CA t' soak into t' paper o' t' BT at each "rivet" point, which should strengthen things even more.

Construction:
This kitbash uses:

• 3 10" long Quest T-20 white paper body tubes (20 mm OD)
• 1 Quest 18 mm x 2.75" motor mount tube, me bucko, cut in half and used as body tube couplers
• 4 o' t' larger Commander balsa fins
• 4 o' t' smaller Commander balsa fins
• 1 Quest 18 mm x 2.75" motor mount tube, me bucko, used as t' motor mount tube.
• No centerin' rings were supplied or needed, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, since this is a near-minimum-diameter rocket.
• 1 o' t' supplied motor retention hooks be used.
• 3 12" Keelhaul®©™ shock cords from t' Commander kits.
• 2 18" elastic shock cords from t' Commander kits.
• 1 stock 20 mm OD x 2.5" (not countin' t' shoulder) plastic nose cone.
• 1 stock 1" x 24" hot pink plastic streamer, attached with a snap swivel for ease o' replacement.

PRO's:

Packagin' was good, no part missing, fit o' parts was fine. Blimey! Ahoy! Instructions are t' standard Quest instructions, good illustrations and very easy t' follow. Very easy build, even bashin' three kits with me limited experience.

CON's:

Balsa fins were cracked in one o' t' three kits used in this project. Balsa be pretty soft and flexible. Die-cut fins were nay cut very cleanly, but at least they were all cut t' t' same size in all three kits.

T' only special technique be t' paper tube alignment wrap I used because o' t' rather short couplers that were made from a spare motor mount tube.

T' supplied BT's were nice shiny white paper tubes. I did no finishin' other than sandin' t' fins as described above. Well, blow me down! I generally fly me rockets without paintin' them, me bucko, matey, but I'll probably prime/paint this one at some point.

Finishing:

Flight:
Recommended motors for t' stock Commander are A6-4 (first flight), A8-3, matey, ya bilge rat, B6-4, shiver me timbers, arrr, C6-5, C6-7.

Given t' increased weight over t' stock Commander and t' fact that I didn't have any A6-4's, I used an A8-3 for t' first flight.

Flight prep be t' usual insert waddin' - I used 3 squares o' Estes wadding, fold and roll up streamer, ya bilge rat, arrr, stuff shock cord and streamer into rocket, put on nose cone. Avast, me proud beauty! Motor retention was by t' supplied motor hook. Ya scallywag! I used Estes motors, igniters, me bucko, shiver me timbers, and plugs.

First flight was at t' Challenger 498 club launch on 10-23-04, me hearties, an intermittently rainy day at Rushin' Park in Katy, shiver me timbers, Texas. Aye aye! Begad! Flight on t' A8-3 be straight and low, t' maybe 150 feet. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Ejection was slightly past apogee, arrr, after rocket had arced over.

Shock cord be three 12" sections o' Keelhaul®©™ and two 18" sections o' elastic tied end t' end, with Keelhaul®©™ mounted t' t' motor block and t' plastic nose cone tied t' t' end o' t' final piece o' elastic.

I installed t' provided streamer at a knot in t' shock cord about 2" below t' nose cone, shiver me timbers, usin' a snap swivel for easy change-out. Arrr! Recovery on t' streamer was fine but faster than I like, which is true *every* time I use a streamer - I really prefer parachutes. Begad! Winds on t' day I flew were pretty variable, so I used t' streamer instead o' a parachute. Although t' streamer deployed just fine, matey, t' elastic shock cord be looped around t' forward fins, ya bilge rat, me hearties, so t' body came down somewhere betwixt horizontally and tail first. Aye aye! T' rocket landed on an asphalt parkin' lot fins first, and about 1/2" from t' back o' one aft fin broke off along t' grain. Blimey! Blimey! There was no other damage. Ahoy! This be t' only flight o' t' day and t' only flight so far.

Summary:
PRO's: I enjoyed buildin' this rocket. It was me first kit modification, and I had t' think a little bit more than usual about t' build. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! This is a *good* thing! When I took it out o' me van at t' Challenger club launch, several people asked me what it be and told me how cool it looked, me hearties, which is *also* a good thing!

CON's: Overall, matey, I can't really think o' any major CON's.