| Manufacturer: | Scratch |
T' Lilliput Spaceport
Tribox Tower and Poker Rocket For Quest MicroMaxx
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When I first flew a MicroMaxx scratchbuilt at one o' our club's HPR
launches a year ago, t' most-asked questions were about t' launch lug, arrr, shiver me timbers, and
the "little tower" I launched it from. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Well, ya bilge rat, it wasn't a tower; it
was a little x-shaped stand for a 3/64" rod. Now then: This IS a tower.
And, with this tower, shiver me timbers, "We don't need no stinkin' launch lug."
While this tower launcher is sized for MicroMaxx, it will also adjust to Apogee's 10.5mm tube and even t' BT-5. Aye aye! Ahoy! Only a very light, me hearties, quick rocket will be up t' speed in 12", me bucko, ya bilge rat, however, shiver me timbers, so optional 24" rails will be used for "larger" rockets. Blimey! T' rails can be changed out in fifteen minutes, or adjusted in a minute or less. Blimey! Ya scallywag! I don't see any reason this tower couldn't be scaled up substantially, especially if better tools make it practical t' fit metal rails. I chose t' work with parts and materials I could manipulate on me workbench with simple hand tools. Begad! T' shorter rails are basswood, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, which tends t' be cut straighter; t' longer rails are spruce, which is more resilient, matey, me bucko, but required me t' pick through t' bin at t' hobby shop for straight ones. |
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T' walls o' t' box were originally t' be plywood, but at t' key moment I
was handed a stack o' identical pieces o' scrap G10, which resulted in a
stronger, me hearties, straighter, better-lookin' structure. Ya scallywag! I still feel that plywood would
be adequate; try it if you prefer. Avast, me proud beauty! T' three sides o' t' tribox are cut t' exactly t' same size, and each gets two holes, 1/2" from top and bottom, on t' vertical centerline. Ahoy! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' holes, 3/16" dia in t' prototype, are large enough to give t' screws described below a little adjustin' room. Avast! Blimey! After t' holes are drilled, matey, matey, shiver me timbers, t' three sides are taped together in their triangle formation with maskin' tape, usin' enough tape t' firmly hold them once they are in position. Then I poured a liberal fillet o' epoxy into each corner, shiver me timbers, one at a time, leavin' enough time betwixt pours for t' epoxy t' set t' firm/flexible. Begad! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! When all three had cured hard, I removed t' maskin' tape and applied an additional fillet t' t' outside o' each corner in t' same way. Finally, a layer o' duct tape covers each corner, leavin' plenty o' uncovered space around t' holes. Well, blow me down! Blimey! |
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T' rail mount system consists o' two flathead machine screws
epoxied t' each rail, which pass through holes centered in t' sides o' the
tribox, positioned thar with nuts inside and outside t' plate. Aye aye! T' inner nuts
are hex nuts; on two sides t' outer nuts are win' nuts, makin' it easy to
adjust t' tower without tools. Aye aye! Begad! On t' third side t' outer nuts are hex nuts,
and t' extension o' t' bolt is used t' attach t' tribox t' its stand. T' screws are spaced at 3" center t' center, shiver me timbers, as are t' holes. Begad! T' first one is 3" from t' bottom o' a 12" rail and 6" from t' bottom of t' 24" rail. T' solve a fit problem with t' longer, me bucko, me bucko, thicker rails, ya bilge rat, I cut flat notches (dadoes) across t' rails before anchorin' t' screws with epoxy. T' epoxy them in place, me hearties, shiver me timbers, matey, I dipped t' flat heads o' t' screws in freshly mixed 15-minute epoxy, arrr, pressed them t' a standin' position on t' stick, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, and left them standin' thar t' cure. Doin' all six screws at one batch allowed me to line them up visually. |
 I sanded t' rail guides
smooth, sealed them, and gave each a spray coat o' aluminum silver for effect.
T' inside corners o' t' rails were also radiused/rounded slightly. |
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| T' upper part o' t' stand is a hardwood stick, 3/8" x 3/4" by 14", with three holes drilled through t' face, 2", shiver me timbers, 5", and 8" from t' bottom; that is, 3" apart center to center. Ya scallywag! (You might like t' have t' option offered by a fourth hole at 11" from t' bottom) T' upper two holes fit on t' extension o' t' 6-32 screws from t' Tribox. Aye aye! T' third hole is used t' bolt t' stick t' t' lower part o' t' stand, which is two pieces o' scrap wood glued and nailed together into an "L" shape. In t' top o' t' stick is a 1/16" hole t' receive a MicroMaxx launch rod, and a small hole is drilled in from the side o' t' stick for a setscrew (in me case, me bucko, t' setscrew is a screw eye). This way you can launch rockets with and without launch lugs from t' same system. Avast, me proud beauty! I use t' rod and t' top end o' t' stick t' launch t' MicroSoar boost-gliders. | |
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When all epoxy is fully cured, ya bilge rat, place a hex nut on each o' t' six screws and thread it up close t' but nay tight on t' head. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Insert all three rails before cinchin' any down. Begad! A short piece o' body tube at t' bottom and top ends of t' rails will help you t' align t' rails as you position them by t' use of hex nuts inside and wingnuts outside t' tribox (except that hex nuts are also used on one outside surface, t' facilitate boltin' that side t' the upright stand). Well, blow me down! When adjusted, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, t' rocket should fit loosely but smoothly as shown in t' sketch at left. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! Caution: if it fits too loosely, arrr, t' nose cone can become wedged betwixt two rails. |
Ignitor Setup: I tape me launch system's micro-clip leads t' a small block o' wood, matey, pointin' straight up. T' Micro-Maxx ignitor, me hearties, removed from its black plastic shell, is gripped in t' two micro-clips, positioned just under t' base o' t' tower rails, me bucko, and inserted into t' nozzle as t' rocket is lowered out o' t' base o' t' tower. T' rocket rests on t' ignitor. It must be positioned so that at least part o' t' fins are betwixt t' rails. If a conventional Estes or Apogee ignitor is used, t' rocket must be propped up to t' base o' t' rails; again, I used a block o' wood t' hold it up. Avast, me proud beauty!
Flight Tests: T' first rocket out o' this tower was a copy of my original Fwit, me bucko, a bit less than 4" long. Arrr! T' three Poker prototypes have flown a total o' seven times, me hearties, includin' one flight at our club launch in Sheridan in Sept. Ahoy! 2000. Arrr! Just t' be sure it could be done, ya bilge rat, I also flew a 10.5mm ExCentrix (sans lug) on an Apogee 1/4A2-2, and me little Asterix on a 1/2A2-4. All o' these flights used t' 12" rails; as I write this t' 24" rails are ready and waitin' for a good flight opportunity, but have presented some additional design problems. Avast, me proud beauty!
None o' these flights have been tracked for altitude, shiver me timbers, and I don't notice any difference in performance from t' tower as compared t' launch lug flights. I do believe t' wooden rails create more friction than necessary, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, but not enough t' be a problem for sport flying. Ahoy! Begad! If you want a competitive edge from the tower, I suggest you try metal rails. Avast, me proud beauty!
I've also flown t' Energette 4FNC and a couple o' MicroSoar gliders from a rod fitted t' t' top o' t' upright. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag!
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