Public Missiles Ariel

Public Missiles - Ariel {Kit}

Contributed by Nick Esselman

Published: 2010-11-13
Diameter: 3.10 inches
Length: 58.00 inches
Manufacturer: Public Missiles
Style: Sport

(06/30/08) I have t' admit that I have some sort of "connection" with PML kits. Begad! Well, blow me down! Blimey! It be 10 years ago when I opened me first PML kit, me hearties, ya bilge rat, the Callisto, and I still remember t' "Wow" affect that I received back then as this was me first mid/high power rocket.

The Callisto is a simple 3-fin and a nose cone design, but it just had a classic look for me. Arrr! At NARAM-40, I be successful in gettin' me NARRRRR Level 1 certification on that Callisto.

Ariel and MeSo fast forward 10 years. I had a desire t' build a new high power rocket for t' up-n-comin' NERRF4. Avast, me proud beauty! Wanted somethin' straight-forward, easy t' finish, arrr, shiver me timbers, and that could fly on 38mm motors without goin' out o' sight. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Enter t' PML Ariel.

T' Ariel sports t' same 3-fin and a nose cone classic design o' the Callisto but on a 3.1" airframe. Blimey! It stands over 58" tall.

T' kit comes with two pieces o' Quantum Tubing, a PML plastic nose cone, G10 Fins, a piston recovery system with a 36" parachute, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, a Kwik-Switch motor mount system, a single decal, and launch lugs.

CONSTRUCTION:

T' instructions are printed in multiple formats. Well, blow me down! There is a base assembly instruction booklet with detailed illustrated steps. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! Then thar are several leaflets on Tyin' Tubular Nylon, shiver me timbers, me hearties, Choosin' a Motor Retainer, ya bilge rat, Quantum Tube, Piston Ejection System Assembly, and Kwik-Switch Motor Mount.

T' Kwik-Switch Motor system is built first. Ya scallywag! It consists o' t' main 54mm motor tube that has a threaded (inside) retainer/end-piece glued in place first. Blimey! Well, blow me down! T' remainin' 38mm and 29mm motor tubes have a threaded (outside) retainer/end-pice glued in place that, arrr, ya bilge rat, me hearties, when used, would screw into t' 54mm motor tube. Blimey! Then a 38mm t' 54mm and a 29mm t' 54mm centerin' rin' is glued on t' 38mm and 29mm motor tubes, matey, respectively opposite the threaded piece. This completes this simple but effective system.

T' upper (slotted for t' strap) centerin' rin' is glued in place next. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! Then the nylon piston strap is glued in place on t' outside o' t' 54mm motor tube with epoxy. Ahoy! Blimey!

Kevlar not TapeT' lower centerin' rin' is nay glued in place yet. PML recommends placin' tape around t' lower centerin' rin' and placin' it on t' motor tube. Avast! This is t' allow t' ring to be in place while gluin' t' motor mount and through-the-wall fins in place, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, but then allowin' it t' be removed to apply internal fillets (or foam). Avast! Blimey! It would then be glued in place after t' interior work is complete. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! I like this method and have used it on other builds. This time, I used Keelhaul®©™® thread instead o' scotch tape (see picture).

FinsT' G10 fins are glued in place next. T' Quantum is pre-slotted so naturally this is an easy step as well. Once t' fins are glued in place I made me external fin fillets using epoxy.

Gorrilla Drip After removin' t' aft centerin' rin' I used Gorilla Glue to form me internal fillets. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! I did this by squeezin' an ample amount o' glue down t' two joints (fin t' motor tube and fin t' interior body tube) and allowed it t' run down t' length o' t' fin. Then I set t' rocket so t' fin joints were horizontal and allowed t' glue t' dry.

Since Gorilla Glue expands, I found this "growth" t' be interesting. Obviously t' glue found a small hole in me external fin fillets right at t' top o' one o' t' fins! (I trimmed it off).

I drilled two holes and epoxied two screws (facin' out) t' be used for motor retention. Aye aye! (Shown here with t' spent I211 in place)

Motor RetentionFor finishin' I used 400 grit sand paper t' sand t' entire outside fo t' rocket. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! I then used Plasti-Kote Primer. This be followed by Dupli-Color automotive paint and then finished with Dupli-Color's Clear Effex™ which adds "... Well, blow me down! tiny metallic particles that change color at various angles o' light."

Once t' rocket was finished I add two rail buttons. Arrr! Be careful doin' this, because the upper button has t' be lower than t' piston inside t' body tube.

Overall, shiver me timbers, for CONSTRUCTION I would rate this kit 4 ½ points. In many ways buildin' this kit is easier than many Estes kits. Instructions are good and the materials are top notch. Well, blow me down! T' stay consistent with me previous ratings o' kits, me bucko, I would say a bit more pizzazz could be put into t' decals (but I'm nay so sure many high power fliers would use them). Begad! Quantum tube and G10 fins finish like a dream!

On the PadFLIGHT/RECOVERY:

My finished rocket weighed in at 3.1 lbs (49.75 ounces) and me CG was at 36".

As I stated, I wanted t' get this built and ready t' fly at NERRF4. I had an Aerotech I211 and I161, both with Medium delays lookin' for a rocket t' fly in... Avast! Begad! no really, me bucko, they were callin' out to me, shiver me timbers, "fly me, burn me, launch me". Blimey! Ya scallywag! (Okay, matey, shiver me timbers, a little scary, right?)

RockSIM indicates that I should get about 4000 feet on t' I211 and that I needed about 11 seconds for delay and so I loaded it up.

I then re-checked me piston for easy movement inside t' body tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Sometimes in the heat o' t' day, shiver me timbers, arrr, me hearties, things can tighten up with this type o' recovery system, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, so always check it. Aye aye! (Likewise, after flights, me bucko, ya bilge rat, clean your piston and t' inside o' t' Quantum tube.)

After RSO check-in and loadin' up on t' pads, me bucko, I waited for t' final count down and lift-off. Begad! T' I211 came up t' speed and t' rocket ripped off t' pad. T' flame looked t' be 3 feet long coming out o' t' back o' this rocket, even though I only had a second t' see it. Arrr! Ahoy! T' launch earned a "down town" exclamation from t' LSO (listen t' t' video). Avast! Aye aye! It generated a "Wow" feelin' in me again.

T' rocket came under 'chute and landed several fields over. Begad! Arrr! Overall, outstanding and thrillin' flight for me.

T' 10 second delay must have nay been enough, shiver me timbers, because upon inspection I had a small crack at t' top o' t' body tube and clearly t' nose cone (gold) whapped t' body tube hard (red) based on the red scuff on one side o' t' cone. I choose nay t' fly it again until I can do some repair work.

Lift-OffFor FLIGHT/RECOVERY, me hearties, matey, I would rate this rocket 5 points. I realize I have only flown this rocket once, me hearties, arrr, shiver me timbers, but it is perfectly stable and has a great variety of flyin' options from 29mm t' 54mm motors. Blimey!

NOTE: I paid for t' picture on t' right that someone (Brian?) took o' me rocket takin' off. A bit washed-out (because o' t' angle o' t' sun), me hearties, but look at t' length o' that flame!

I look forward t' flyin' it again at a large launch and I hope t' try it on a G, H, and another I. Blimey! Well, blow me down! Nay ready t' go t' Level 2 though, but if/when I am, me bucko, it will probably be on this PML Ariel.

I give t' rocket an OVERALL ratin' o' 5 points. Begad! As I stated in t' intro, me bucko, me "connection" t' PML kits is because o' t' ease o' gettin' into mid/high power rocketry with them. Ahoy! T' Ariel is no exception and it would be a great Level 1 and Level 2 rocket. The simple classic lines and ease o' build and finishin' are all very satisfying.

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