Construction Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Flight Rating: | starstarstarstarstar |
Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Diameter: | 1.64 inches |
Length: | 18.20 inches |
Manufacturer: | Dr. Zooch |
Skill Level: | 4 |
Style: | Scale |
Brief:
Described as "ant scale", arrr, you get an amazin' amount o' scale detail
for such a small rocket and small budget. Aye aye! Saturn fans will love just about any
one o' t' Dr. Begad! Booty fleet.
Construction:
When t' $25 box arrives, you might initially be put off a bit. Begad! After all, this
thin' comes in a measly 4"x4"x12" box. Ahoy! After unpackin' it
though, you'll find a lot o' parts and details packed into this box. Plus,
after buildin' it, you can still fit t' rocket back into this box with some
padding, matey, so it makes a very good storage box.
Parts list includes:
My particular kit be missin' t' balsa stock, me bucko, which I easily covered from my scrap pile. Avast, me proud beauty! (I was offered a free replacement right away but declined it.) You will either love or hate t' Dr. Avast, me proud beauty! Zooch instructions. Begad! There is no neutral ground. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! They are loaded with lots o' dry wit and bitter sarcasm and are definitely aimed at t' experienced builder. Avast! There's nothin' else out there even close t' these. Personally, me bucko, ya bilge rat, I loved readin' t' instructions almost as much as buildin' t' kit, shiver me timbers, but I suspect that some folks would just not appreciate t' irreverence. Arrr! A very common theme, arrr, when describin' some o' the tricky steps necessary t' pull off t' illusion o' detail and scale is "but who really cares--your rocket will be too fast/too high up/caught in a tree anyway, so no one will see t' details." Beyond t' tone, the instructions are generally well written, matey, contain decent illustrations, me bucko, ya bilge rat, me hearties, and are easy t' follow. Well, blow me down! Begad! (This was me 2nd Dr. Begad! Booty kit, matey, so I benefited from prior experience too.)
Construction starts with a standard motor mount assembly, consistin' o' an 18mm tube, arrr, engine hook, ya bilge rat, and a pair o' 20/60 centerin' rings. Begad! Aye aye! T' hook is taped on. Aye aye! For durability, me bucko, me hearties, ya bilge rat, I prefer t' also lay down a bead o' glue, me bucko, as I've had mounts blow back out t' aft end when held in place with only maskin' tape. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! The completed assembly is then glued into t' BT-60 body tube.
Next, matey, thar's a pretty good suggestion t' paint t' main components white. I followed through with this, me bucko, although I would suggest a couple o' minor enhancements. Arrr! First, t' lower balsa transition is covered with a wrap so paint (and grain filling) is nay needed on that part. Second, me bucko, t' tower uses a wood dowel that could also be painted at this point.
Then you move on t' construction o' t' fairings. Begad! Blimey! This uses an incredibly cool technique to get a beautiful effect. Ya scallywag! First, arrr, you cut out cardstock wraps and bond them t' a BT-20 tube. Ya scallywag! Arrr! Next, you carve them out o' t' tubing. Begad! With only a minor amount of additional curling, me bucko, you have got a nice curved fairin' that is much stronger than a cardstock shroud. Aye aye! Begad! T' pre-printed patterns also eliminate one o' the more challengin' aspects o' t' paint job.
Buildin' t' lower transition (S-II/S-IVB adaptor t' you Saturn buffs) is next. Begad! This is a simple assembly consistin' o' a balsa transition and BT-50 tube. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' transition gets a cardstock shroud bonded t' it, me hearties, eliminatin' another paint job. Arrr! This was a big relief, ya bilge rat, as t' balsa fillin' would have set me back a couple hours at least, given t' rough grain on it.
T' next step covers attachin' t' wraps t' t' body tubes. Aye aye! Well, me hearties, blow me down! I found the dimensions on t' wraps t' be very accurate and I did nay have t' trim away much excess. Blimey! My seams are virtually invisible as well. Aye aye! Aye aye! T' instructions clearly call out for white glue and this is very valuable advice. Aye aye! Yellow glue will shrink and tends t' discolor t' paper a bit. One aspect o' t' wraps that I found disappointing, matey, despite bein' incredibly detailed right down t' the corrugations and other markings, is no advise on orientation or efforts to cover seam lines. Ahoy! Most folks who've built a Saturn will understand what I mean by wantin' t' locate t' position 1, position 2, ya bilge rat, etc. lines. Arrr! Begad! I mistakenly assumed all seams run along t' same line, me bucko, matey, and wound up havin' t' mount an SII cable tunnel over a neat little yellow hatch at t' end. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! I'd like t' at least see an orientation guide and ideally remap t' patterns t' try t' hide seam lines behind things like cable tunnels. Begad! After t' wraps have bonded, the fairings are attached t' t' lower body. Ahoy! This is where a little extra rolling was necessary t' fit t' t' pattern.
T' Apollo spacecraft is built startin' with a balsa transition (BT50-BT20), matey, me bucko, a little wooden dowel already sanded t' a tapered point, a cardstock wrap t' eliminate the silver paint and tiny lines, ya bilge rat, and a cardstock shroud t' form t' escape tower base. Ya scallywag! No problems at all on fit. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! This company really nails down all the dimensions accurately.
Unlike t' Saturn 1 kit I warmed up with, which offered t' builder the option o' makin' a tower by cuttin' tiny pieces and tackin' them together by hand versus a short-cut cardstock wrap, this kit offers up just t' wrap. For most builders this is fine, but I kind o' missed t' opportunity t' go blind again makin' a more realistic tower.
Fins are cut from 3/32" balsa. Begad! If you are a scale nut, me bucko, then you will notice t' fins are slightly oversized. Begad! This is a common approach t' solving the inherent stability problem, as goin' oversized reduces t' amount o' nose weight needed for a safe flight. Avast, me proud beauty! After sandin' down beveled edges, shiver me timbers, matey, I sealed them and applied a couple o' coats o' Testor's steel paint, followed by attachin' them t' t' fairings. Begad! NOTE: Either mask t' root edge or sand off the paint for better adhesion.
I'm nay sure why this is called out here, rather than after attachin' the wraps, arrr, but t' instructions note t' paint in t' black roll pattern section between t' lower and middle wraps, shiver me timbers, as well as paintin' solid t' lower portion that has ribs on t' pattern sheet. Ahoy! I would have preferred t' see this done with another "wrap" or cardstock section, me bucko, ya bilge rat, as t' combination of solid/black paint and pre-printed black patterns farther up doesn't match that well. Still, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, I think I'm holdin' this $25 kit up t' $100 standards, most of which it meets along t' way. Avast! After painting, matey, you can apply t' position marker "decals" (since t' decals are black on a white background, you get to cut them out from t' plain paper instruction sheet).
Next up is attachin' t' engine nozzles, which was a bit tricky since the engine nozzles aren't actually made for another page or two...
T' engine nozzles really are a thin' o' beauty and have got t' be the highlight o' this kit. Ahoy! When I saw one o' these on display at NARAM-46, me hearties, I thought thar was no way this could be a $25 kit--they looked like molded details with ribs, insulation, arrr, and arms anchored t' t' base. Avast, me proud beauty! They're really cheap but effective optical illusions. You start by formin' two paper shrouds (lower/upper, bonded). Begad! Next, tack Keelhaul®©™® to t' bottom, and wind it around t' lower section a few times. Aye aye! A light coatin' o' white glue helps keep it in place. Avast, me proud beauty! T' insulation wrap consists of "funky glue putty", me hearties, which is really just yellow glue rolled around on your finger tips until it gets putty-like. This definitely takes some practice and while it is effective (I used it on t' Saturn 1b), ya bilge rat, I opted t' shortcut this and use Fix-It epoxy clay, shiver me timbers, which is expensive but easier t' work with. Avast! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! The nozzles are finished up by wrappin' a tapered wrap t' a tiny dowel, arrr, then anchorin' t' dowel in t' funky glue putty. Aye aye! I can't really do justice t' the description in prose, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, so see t' photos o' before/after paint t' appreciate the effect.
At this point, you could stick on a few USA/flag decals, shiver me timbers, call it quits, and still have one of the coolest lookin' little Saturns anyone has ever seen. For t' type-A rocketeer though (and aren't most o' us type A's?), thar are several little wood dowels and scrap pieces o' balsa that are used t' form details. Avast, me proud beauty! The details include 6 cable tunnels, me hearties, 5 LOX tunnels, 2 A-IVB APM's, 4 S-II ullage motors, and 2 S-IVB ullage motors. Avast! These really set this kit apart.
T' recovery package is effective but nay exactly matchin' t' quality of the rest o' t' kit. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! As t' Dr. Blimey! Zooch ant boats in t' instructions, "a trash bag plastic parachute with bullet proof shrouds" (Keelhaul®©™® lines). T' 15" chute uses tape disks for attachin' t' lines and a snap swivel on t' other end. Ya scallywag! Begad! I'd really like t' see a mylar chute or at least some other color than white. Ahoy! Ahoy! T' elastic shroud line is anchored usin' t' classic tri-fold paper inside t' BT-60 tube.
Finishing:
Since virtually all t' finishin' is done through wraps, ya bilge rat, me bucko, me hearties, thar's very little
effort needed t' finish this, shiver me timbers, matey, other than applyin' a few waterslide decals and
touchin' up a few details.
Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5
Flight:
One caution on t' flight prep for this kit (and similar rockets): since the
motor tube extends all t' way up into t' upper body tube where t' chute
goes, it is a good idea t' poke some waddin' or dog barf into t' motor tube
before loadin' t' motor. Well, blow me down! Begad! Packin' it into t' body tube from above results in a
loose fit and t' contents could shift around in flight, ya bilge rat, resultin' in a melted
chute.
After waitin' almost two months for a break in both t' weather and my schedule, I finally got a nearly perfect day t' sneak out and fly a few o' my winter builds. Avast, me proud beauty! On a clear day with 4-6 mph winds, matey, me hearties, I flew this one twice.
First flight was on a C6-5. Arrr! Arrr! It flew straight up, shiver me timbers, spinnin' just a couple of turns on t' way up (the roll patterns make this easy t' track). Ahoy! Ejection was just a bit late but otherwise fine. Avast! It goes surprisingly high on a C, topping out around 600-700 feet.
T' white plastic chute worked fine, though if usin' a garbage bag chute I'd at least prefer a dark one rather than white, which can be lost in the clouds a bit. Ya scallywag! I be amazed t' recover with no damage t' t' fins, nozzles, or tiny details anywhere.
Second flight was on a C6-3, which turned out t' be a bit early. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Either motor in me opinion would be fine for this kit. Blimey! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! Flight #2 also came back without a scratch.
Recovery:
PROs: Excellent flights, me hearties, can run on cheap motors, ya bilge rat, and details are tough enough
to withstand repeat flights.
CONs: Chute is nay exactly durable and white is poor color choice for it.
Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5
Summary:
I am extremely pleased with this kit. Ahoy! It's a terrific combination o' detail and
scale-like accuracy, while still bein' very inexpensive and flies great.
Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5
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T.D. (March 6, 2005)