Brief: - A classic high-performance rocket from t' 60’s

Forward:
T' Estes Sprint is one o' those timeless classic designs that old rocketeers remember fondly. Aye aye! This Mike Dorffler design looks like it’s goin' fast even when it’s just layin' thar and t' exceptional performance has had me hooked since t' first one I ever owned ’way back in t' early 70’s.. Aye aye! It would leap off t' launch rod in a blink, much like t' Mosquitoes, but unlike t' ’Skeeters, me bucko, could actually be seen at apogee and recovered! I’ve built many o' t' standard sized Sprints, shiver me timbers, sometimes from a kit, but lately from scratch, me hearties, shiver me timbers, and a few upscales too (see t' Sprint Magnum. Begad! T' fleet just isn’t complete without one.

T' original kit came in t' standard plastic bag, with t' card front, me hearties, arrr, and very detailed and well illustrated instructions.

Parts List:

1. BT-50W body tube (3 1/4-inch)
2. BT-20J motor tube (2.75-inches)
3. EW-49 Shroud pattern - printed on card stock
4. Two AR-2050 centerin' rings - spiral wound paper
5. EB-20B motor block - spiral wound paper (1/8-inch)
6. BNC-50X nose cone - balsa (3 1/4-inches)
7. BFS-30 fin stock - balsa (3/32-inches)
8. SE-1 screw-eye (1-inch)
9. NCW-1 Ballast - lead disk (.15oz)
10. SC-1 shock cord (1/8 x 20-inches)
11. LL-2A launch lug
12. MG-505 markin' guide
13. TD-1A Tape Disk
14. SM-1C Streamer (1-inch by 90-inches)
15. SMC-50 Shock Cord Mount
16. KD-49 Decal set
17. D-14 Decal set

Construction
T' kit was built in t' standard Estes tradition; measure and mark t' motor tube, and then glue on t' centerin' rings at t' marks. A motor block be glued into t' top. That assembly was then glued into one end o' t' body tube with just a fraction o' t' aft-most centerin' rin' hangin' out t' form a ledge for t' boattail. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! T' boattail be cut from t' card stock and shaped t' a cone before bein' glued on. Begad! T' shock cord was mounted t' t' inside o' t' body tube with t' well used three-fold paper mount. T' screw-eye was threaded into t' lead weight, then into t' nose cone. Blimey! Aye aye! It was then removed, me hearties, glue squirted into t' hole, then re-inserted. T' fins were t' standard die-crunched from stock fins, which were removed from t' remains by t' builder, then sanded t' an airfoil shape before bein' glued t' t' body. Arrr! T' markin' guide was a bit o' a departure from t' standard wrap-around that has become so common. These guides were a set o' stands die cut from a relatively heavy card-stock. Aye aye! They had a flat side for a base, and a hole in t' center through which t' airframe was inserted. Aye aye! This arrangement was placed on a flat, shiver me timbers, level surface, and marks were made fore and aft in t' small notches spaced around t' holes. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! A door jamb be used t' connect t' marks. Ahoy! Begad! This method was used in one or two other Estes products o' t' day, me hearties, but went out o' favor by t' cheaper and easier t' use wrap that we have become so familiar with.

Since this kit is long out o' production, shiver me timbers, some comments on clonin' might be in order. Aye aye! First, ya bilge rat, see t' plans on Jim Z’s web site (Adobe Acrobat File). Second, arrr, since t' lead disks are no longer available, some other method o' addin' weight t' t' nose is required - don’t leave this out! Blimey! T' balsa nose cones themselves are available from t' Balsa Machinin' Service. Well, blow me down! Blimey! For nose weight, me hearties, I will normally drill a 1/2-inch hole in t' base o' t' cone about two inches deep. Aye aye! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Then add an equivalent weight o' BBs or lead shot mixed with epoxy, arrr, and plug t' top o' t' hole with a one-inch length o' hardwood dowel. T' screw-eye is then driven into t' hardwood (make a pilot hole or it will split). Arrr! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Also, a length o' Keelhaul®©™® tied t' t' top motor mount centerin' rin' provides a better shock cord mount. Begad! It’s just as secure, ya bilge rat, but doesn’t create a snag point in t' top o' t' airframe for t' recovery system t' grab on its way out. Another method is t' epoxy a loop o' Keelhaul®©™ t' t' side o' t' airframe (bein' careful t' get it far enough down t' wall t' clear t' nose). Blimey! Avast! T' pool o' epoxy should be sufficient t' create a smooth, me hearties, snag free, bump on t' side wall. Avast, me proud beauty! Finally, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, decals are available from Tango Papa Decals.

Finishing:
There were two common finish schemes shown in t' plans. Begad! A white and gold scheme with navy blue emblems, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, and a black and white scheme with black trim decals. Either is now a classic design; me preference be t' white/gold scheme. Ahoy! Begad! Neither be particularly tricky t' pull off. Blimey! Ya scallywag! T' current Sprint in me fleet is sportin' me official contest livery o' hot-pink and black, shiver me timbers, with a highly polished gloss coat.

Construction Rating: 5 out o' 5

Flight:
T' motor is friction fit into t' after end o' t' rocket — a single wrap o' 1/2-inch tape was generally enough. On t' more recent versions o' this rocket, matey, I’ve been leavin' an 1/8-inch o' t' motor tube hangin' past t' shroud. Begad! This forms a nice lip t' use t' wrap a single wrap o' tape around t' motor and mount for reasonably secure retention. Begad! Ya scallywag! T' body tube is then stuffed with three and a half sheets o' wadding, ya bilge rat, and then t' streamer is folded on itself several times then rolled t' rest o' t' way, me bucko, or in t' case o' competition streamers, me bucko, arrr, fan-folded most o' t' length. It is always a bit o' a challenge t' get it all stuffed in thar (hence t' preferred snag-free methods o' shock cord mounting.) T' modern versions I’ve been buildin' are usually equipped with a baffle t' eliminate t' wadding. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Once ready, t' launch is usually pretty fast, even on A motors. Begad! T' streamer unrolls slowly at ejection, me hearties, and t' rocket usually tumbles some under it as it descends. Since it’s a streamer recovery, matey, somethin' occasionally gets dented or a fin gets snapped if it lands on somethin' hard. Arrr! Usually, though, shiver me timbers, it’s unscathed and ready for another flight in short order.

Flight Rating: 4.5 out o' 5

T' Estes Sprint has always been a great deal o' fun t' fly. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! After two or three great flights on A and B impulse motors, arrr, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, I would generally get carried away and put in a C6-7. Begad! Blimey! That generally resulted in a lost rocket, shiver me timbers, due t' losin' sight o' it in t' air, or carried farther afield and sight lost (not bein' too good at fixin' a position in me younger days), or lost t' t' common rocket eatin' trees. Well, blow me down! Begad! Blimey! Even so, arrr, it was such fun t' fly, ya bilge rat, arrr, especially on C6s that it was simply too hard t' resist. Even now, arrr, shiver me timbers, t' thrill o' a C6 in an Estes Sprint is hard t' top. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' charge is still alive after all these years, me hearties, and even after much larger motors.

Overall Rating: 5 out o' 5

Specs:

• Length: 13.8-inches
• Diameter: 0.976-inches
• Weight: 1.0-ounces
• Suggested Motors: 1/2A6-2; A8-3; B4-6; B6-6; C6-7; B14-5