Scratch SilverBelle Original Design / Scratch Built

Scratch - SilverBelle {Scratch}

Contributed by John Thompson

Manufacturer: Scratch
(Contributed - by John Thompson - 11/16/07)Rocket Pic

Brief:
Built for t' Design This Spaceship Contest. This is a single staged, shiver me timbers, arrr, dual 18mm clustered rocket built from an Estes Baby Bertha kit.


Parts List

Part

Part Number

Quantity

Length

Nose Cone

 

1

 

Shock cord

 

1

18 inch

Parachute

 

1

12 inch

Body Tube

 

1

 

Balsa

 

1

3/16 thick

Balsa

 

1

1/8 inch thick

Engine Tube

 

2

2.75"

Thrust Ring

 

2

18 mm diameter

Centerin' Ring

 

2

18mm t' BT 60

Retainer Clip (Optional)

 

2

2.75"

Launch Lug

 

1

2"

**Note: Engine parts listed here are for buildin' a 2x18mm cluster model. Blimey! Aye aye! Part numbers and quantities will vary dependin' on how you build t' model.

Assembly Instructions

T' followin' instructions are for buildin' t' SilverBelle from an Estes™ Baby Bertha kit. Avast! T' pre-cut fins and engine mount will nay be used, me hearties, unless a single 18mm model is built. Aye aye! Ahoy! T' single engine mount will be replaced using a 2x18mm cluster mount. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, matey, blow me down! New fins will be cut usin' t' fin patterns supplied in these instructions. Arrr! Ahoy!

Engine Mount Assembly (2x18mm Cluster)

Begin t' engine mount assembly by gluin' one o' t' green Thrust Rings into one end o' t' blue Engine Mount tube. Arrr! T' Thrust Rin' should be flush with t' end o' t' engine tube.

Measure ¼ inch down t' engine tube, me bucko, from t' same end as t' thrust ring, and make a mark. Aye aye! Make a small cut through t' tube at this mark usin' a hobby knife. Avast! Begad! Find one o' t' metal engine retainin' clips, me hearties, and place t' end that is bent 90° into t' cut you just made.

Run a bead o' glue around t' middle o' t' engine tube. Avast! Blimey! Find one o' t' black, matey, me hearties, or dark grey, rings, ya bilge rat, slide it over both t' engine tube and engine retainer clip and through t' bead o' glue. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Adjust t' engine clip as needed t' keep it straight. Avast! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Allow t' glue t' dry

Repeat procedure for second engine tube.

Take one o' t' Cluster Centerin' Rings and slide it over t' end o' both engine tubes with t' green thrust ring. T' centerin' rin' should butt up against t' engine retainin' clip. Blimey! Create a glue fillet around both sides o' the centerin' ring. Ahoy! Avast! Allow t' glue t' dry.

Measure 1 inch down on t' opposite end o' t' engine tubes and make a mark. Begad! Ya scallywag! Slide t' second centerin' rin' over both tubes and retainin' clips t' t' mark you made. Create a glue fillet and allow t' dry.

**Note: If you are havin' trouble slidin' t' centerin' rin' over t' retainin' clips, make notches in the centerin' rings t' allow t' rings t' slide over t' clips.

Once t' glue has dried on t' engine mount assembly, place a liberal amount o' glue t' a Q-Tip or a scrap piece of balsa, arrr, shiver me timbers, and spread t' glue, as far as you can reach, all around t' inside o' one end o' t' body tube. Slide the engine assembly inside t' body tube, but nay all t' way t' t' second centerin' ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! Spread a liberal amount o' glue just inside t' end o' t' body tube, and then slide t' mount t' rest o' t' way into t' body tube, me bucko, me hearties, until t' engine tubes are flush with t' end o' t' body tube. Aye aye! Blimey! Create a fillet on t' outside o' t' aft centerin' rin' and allow glue to dry.

Engine Mount Assembly (Single Engine)

If you plan on usin' only a single engine in t' build, ya bilge rat, follow t' instructions included in t' Estes Baby Bertha TM kit.

Fin Installation Instructions

Make three marks on t' body tube, 120° apart from each other, matey, ya bilge rat, on t' same end as t' engine mount, t' locate where t' fins are t' be mounted.

Place t' body tube against a door frame and draw three straight lines up t' tube usin' t' marks as a starting point. Well, blow me down! If you have a Fin Alignment Tool, shiver me timbers, you can use this as well.

Cut t' three large fin set out o' t' material o' your choice. Ya scallywag! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Balsa is used in these instructions. Begad! Spread glue on t' root edge o' one fin and place t' fin on one line on t' body tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Sight down the leadin' and trailin' edges o' t' fin t' make certain t' fin is straight. Well, blow me down! Allow t' glue t' dry and repeat for the other two fins.

Fins Fins 2

Cut t' six small fin set out o' 1/8 inch balsa. Attach one small fin t' both sides o' the large fin, creatin' a sandwich. Make certain t' leave about a ½ inch gap betwixt t' leadin' edge o' t' large fin and t' leadin' edge o' t' small fin. Avast! This will create a "step" look t' t' fin. Repeat for t' other fins. Arrr! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down!

Launch Lug Placement

Attach t' launch Lug t' t' rocket by spreadin' a small amount o' glue on t' bottom o' t' launch lug and placin' it on t' body tube. Blimey! Aye aye! T' launch Lug should be close t' t' center o' t' body tube, matey, and centered betwixt two of the fins. Begad! Sight down t' launch lug t' make certain it is straight along t' centerline o' t' body tube.

 

Shock Cord Mount Assembly Instructions

Cut out t' tri-fold paper shock cord mount and fold it on t' dotted lines. Unfold t' mount and spread glue on the smallest section o' t' shock cord mount.

Place one end o' t' elastic shock cord in t' glue and fold t' mount, with t' shock cord, t' t' second section. Press firmly t' spread out glue. Avast! Spread glue on t' third section o' t' shock cord mount and fold over the second section and elastic shock cord. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Press firmly t' spread out glue.

Once all three sections have been glued t' each other, me bucko, bend t' mount into a U shape so it will be easier t' glue to t' body tube. Tie t' other end o' t' shock cord t' t' nosecone. Secure shock cord t' t' nosecone with CA if desired.

NC Shockcord

After t' glue has dried, spread glue on t' bottom o' t' paper shock cord mount and place it about 2 inches inside t' opposite end o' t' body tube from t' engine mount. Press gently but firmly t' ensure proper adhesion to the body tube.

Parachute Assembly Instructions

Assemble t' shroud lines onto t' parachute accordin' t' t' instructions, if t' shroud lines are nay already attached t' t' parachute. Ya scallywag! Attach t' parachute t' a snap swivel by pushin' t' shroud lines through one end o' the swivel and creatin' a loop. Blimey! Slide t' parachute through t' loop and pull tight. Begad! Ya scallywag! Attach t' other end o' t' swivel to the nose cone.

Paintin' your SilverBelle

T' SilverBelle’s paint scheme is silver with red trim. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! However, matey, you may paint t' rocket any color you wish.

Start out by fillin' t' balsa and tube spirals in t' technique o' your choice. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Prime t' rocket usin' a sandable, shiver me timbers, automotive grade primer. Take some flat black paint and just "dust" t' entire rocket t' give the rocket a "splattered" look. Avast! T' flat black paint will show all t' low spots, spirals, matey, and wood grain. Arrr! Blimey! Allow the primer t' dry for at least 24 hours.

Prime Prime 2

Sand all t' flat black paint off usin' medium grit sandpaper, such as 220 or 240 grit. Clean off all sanding residue and oils from your hands usin' Windex. Ahoy! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Re-prime t' rocket and "dust" it again with flat black paint. Allow t' primer t' dry for at least 24 hours. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Sand all t' flat black paint off usin' fine sandpaper, ya bilge rat, such as 320, 400, or 600 grit paper. Blimey! Blimey! Clean off all sandin' residue and oils from your hands usin' Windex. Begad! Blimey! T' ammonia in Windex will remove most contaminates, me hearties, and will leave t' rocket with a clean surface for painting.

Paint t' entire rocket with a silver base coat. Aye aye! Blimey! Silver paint "runs" easily, me hearties, me bucko, so apply t' paint using light coats. Begad! Blimey! Allow t' base coat t' dry for 24 hours, me bucko, then mask off t' areas t' be painted red.

Painted Painted 2

Scuff t' areas t' be painted a different color with a green scuff pad found in most grocery and hardware stores. "Scuffing" up t' paint creates scratches t' new paint can adhere to. Begad! Well, blow me down! If t' base color is nay sanded or scuffed up, t' paint on top will peal off.

T' paint t' nose cone, you should use tape that will stretch so you get nice curves. Aye aye! I didn't have any on hand so I had t' improvise. Ya scallywag! Once that part is dry, take a touch-up brush and some yellow paint and paint t' yellow trim around red on t' nose cone.

For t' "port holes", ya bilge rat, matey, matey, I just cut out holes in maskin' tape with a razor blade and used a touch-up brush for both t' yellow and black trim. Begad! Aye aye!

Launchin' your SilverBelle

If you built t' SilverBelle usin' only one engine, matey, matey, prep t' rocket as with any other single engine rocket by insertin' t' motor, igniter, arrr, and wadding. Avast! Fold t' parachute accordin' t' your preferred method and insert into the body tube. Well, blow me down! Begad! Slide on t' nosecone and you’re ready t' go.

If you built t' SilverBelle usin' a cluster mount, ya bilge rat, preppin' t' rocket be t' same. Aye aye! Blimey! However, me bucko, you will be using two motors and two igniters. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Insert t' igniters into each motor and use a plastic plug t' hold t' igniters in place. Take one wire from each igniter and twist together. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Well, arrr, blow me down! Blimey! Do t' same for t' other two wires. Begad! Blimey! Attach t' clips t' the igniter wires as you would with a single motor rocket.

(Scratch) Silverbelle (Scratch) Silverbelle

Flight and Recovery:
T' first flight was less than spectacular. Arrr! I prepped t' rocket with two C6-5s and headed out t' t' launch pad. Ahoy! The Range Officer pressed t' launch button, shiver me timbers, t' rocket went up about an inch, ya bilge rat, then sat on t' pad with a beautiful flame comin' out o' each motor. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! T' tips o' t' fins got pretty cooked, and everyone, ya bilge rat, includin' me, got a good laugh. Arrr! The Range Officer asked for t' motor t' check and see if these were from a bad batch.

T' second flight was much better. I loaded up two B6-4s and headed out again. Well, blow me down! This time it left t' launch pad and had a good flight. It weathercocked a bit but recovered fine.

T' third flight was on two C6-5s from another batch. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! It weathercocked again but still had a good flight. The parachute got a little cooked from t' ejection charge and didn't fully open. Aye aye! Arrr! It broke a fin tip on landing.

I have since repaired t' fin tip and have flown it twice more. T' last flight had separation o' t' shock cord from t' body tube. Begad! All parts have been recovered and it is ready for its next flight.

Summary:
T' main pro t' this rocket is its retro style and two engine cluster. This be t' first time I have ever launched a cluster, me hearties, so I be always worried about one motor nay firing. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Luckily, both motors have fired on all flights.

I would say t' main con t' this rocket are t' fins. They extend past t' aft o' t' body tube and will break if thar be a parachute failure. Aye aye!

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