Brief:
If you have ever been at a loss for a giant version o' a model rocket motor t' use as a teachin' aid t' hold up in front o' a class, this is your ticket. Ahoy! This little kit provides a good illustration o' t' internal parts, gives you a model in a good, arrr, usable size, arrr, me bucko, matey, and is easy t' assemble in a couple hours o' total work time. It requires primarily a sharp X-Acto knife and some Elmer's-type white glue.

Construction:
When I first opened t' kit, I be impressed with t' high quality o' t' laser-cut sheet, me bucko, arrr, both t' material and the laser work. Well, blow me down! T' sheet material from which components were cut be a cardboard-type product that was very light while still havin' good strength and stiffness. T' faces o' t' sheet were finished with a "plastic" layer that made me think o' t' exterior o' Estes-style body tubes. Blimey! Begad! T' laser-cut lines were (to me) very narrow (0.1 t' 0.2 mm?) but were straight, shiver me timbers, matey, neat, and without any noticeable scorch marks on t' surroundin' material. Parts were connected to the main sheet by tiny webs that were easily severed with t' tip o' a sharp X-Acto knife. Blimey! Blimey! Parts fit so snugly within the sheet that a little patience and care was needed t' separate them without damagin' t' edges o' t' parts.

Before separatin' any parts from t' laser-cut sheet, it would be good for t' builder t' check and make a clear identification o' all parts before separatin' them. Begad! Builders should note that t' spine is slightly different from the two casin' caps (and may want t' pencil a label on t' parts t' note which is which). Begad! Avast! Similarly, t' four nozzle parts (the half-disc-shaped items down t' center o' t' sheet) should be noted and identified. Begad! Well, me bucko, blow me down! It is nay difficult t' see a difference betwixt t' nozzle 1/nozzle 3 parts and t' others because 1 and 3 have a large center cutout (and if I am not mistaken, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, nozzle 1 and nozzle 3 are t' same size and interchangeable). Well, blow me down! Avast! T' most important difference is that nozzle 2 has a small center cutout and might be mistaken for nozzle 4 if t' builder gets in a hurry.

For Step 2, t' builder must remove t' spine, matey, me bucko, casin' caps, shiver me timbers, and ribs from the laser-cut sheet. Ahoy! These parts should be handled carefully as they are relatively delicate until they are assembled. Blimey! Aye aye! It is easy, for example, t' bend t' long, ya bilge rat, thin, me hearties, me bucko, narrow spine and casin' caps, but they need t' be quite straight for this kit t' work. Well, blow me down! It might be a good idea for t' builder t' separate these parts by cuttin' t' connectin' sprues, arrr, arrr, then place t' sheet on a flat cuttin' surface for support and cuttin' away t' surroundin' sheet material from one end. This makes it much easier t' remove these parts gently from t' rest o' t' sheet and keep them straight.

I found t' four parts needed for Step 2 and checked them for flatness and clean edges. I used only a very small amount o' glue t' assemble each rib t' t' spine; a dot o' glue from t' tip o' a toothpick be enough t' prep each connectin' joint. Ahoy! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Large amounts o' glue are really nay necessary at this point (or at any point in this kit) and would just make a mess. Blimey! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! T' parts are pre-cut with tabs and slots, matey, and t' fit was very good. Ya scallywag! Blimey!

I had no difficulty completin' Step 2 but worked smartly (before t' glue dried completely) and checked for proper part alignment by placin' t' finished assembly upside down on a good flat surface. All six rib tips should sit squarely on t' flat surface. I also used a framin' square (two tablets o' paper could also form a 90 degree corner) and a plastic triangle t' check that t' end ribs were square and t' spine was straight. Begad! I handled this thin' very carefully t' set it aside, me bucko, and let it dry while workin' t' next steps.

In Step 3, ya bilge rat, t' nozzle pieces and t' propellant plate are assembled. Arrr! Again, I used t' tip o' a toothpick to apply glue t' t' joints, shiver me timbers, arrr, me bucko, this time because I wanted t' be able t' adjust them a bit (if needed). Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! I used me plastic triangle again t' check alignment, but t' corner o' a business card or any small object with a square corner could be used. Avast, me proud beauty! It was easy t' clear t' waste material from t' pre-cut slots and I found t' pre-cut tabs fit cleanly and firmly into t' slots. Avast! Ya scallywag! (Jim, me bucko, have you given any thought t' completely cuttin' these slots, ya bilge rat, with no sprues, shiver me timbers, me hearties, so t' tiny little pieces just fallout?) Once these parts are properly assembled, t' builder can add more glue but it really isn't needed.

In Step 5, t' BT-60 is finally glued t' t' inside o' t' rib assembly from Step 4. Ahoy! Ahoy! I think t' best way t' glue this whole thin' together is t' use only small amounts o' glue on t' inside o' t' rib framework for t' initial assembly t' t' BT-60. Aye aye! This way t' glue dries quickly, arrr, and if t' framework needs t' be repositioned, it will nay be as difficult t' cut through all t' glue joints. Arrr! Avast! Once t' rib framework is in place, matey, the builder can add more glue t' all t' joints, shiver me timbers, but more glue should only be added t' t' "framework" side but should be kept clear o' t' opposite side t' make life easier in followin' steps.

For Step 9, t' assembly from Step 5 will be glued into t' wider o' t' two pieces o' BT-70 from t' previous step. In order t' get a good glue bond in t' middle o' this thing, I used an end rib as a markin' guide and made a pencil mark where t' center rib would touch t' inside o' t' BT-70 so I could apply glue while this area was still open. Begad! Well, blow me down! Note the Q-tip that be used t' spread out t' glue.

In Steps 12, me hearties, 13 and 14, follow the directions. Aye aye! Jim already has these well described. I might add that Step 13 is another place where a small amount of glue, applied by toothpick, will be plenty t' attach and hold t' caps onto t' ends o' t' delay plate. Avast, me proud beauty! (And a small amount o' glue gives a second chance t' adjust t' position o' t' caps, if necessary.) Step 14 is another wraparound markin' guide that is sized for t' CPL60 coupler and has uneven marks just like t' guide used for Step 6. Ya scallywag! Avast! Builders will end up with two sections o' coupler that are two slightly different widths...and they are supposed t' be that way.

The CPL60 coupler material was much easier t' cut than I expected (goin' from past experience with Estes coupler material). It is still necessary t' make several light passes and cut progressively deeper each time, shiver me timbers, just as when cuttin' body tube cardboard, me hearties, but t' FlisKits CPL60 material is only slightly tougher t' cut than t' BT-60. Builders should have no trouble completin' these cuts, arrr, shiver me timbers, but should observe all normal safety measures when usin' an X-Acto knife.

In Step 16, one o' t' cut pieces o' CPL60 is glued t' t' delay plate assembly from Step 13. Begad! When I built me preliminary version o' this model kit, this assembly be designed slightly differently from the final production version. Arrr! Blimey! It was still closely representative o' t' delay assembly, me hearties, which is an optional part o' the motor model that represents t' delay and ejection charges and end cap retainer for single stage and upper stage motors. If this assembly is removed from t' model, ya bilge rat, it illustrates a booster motor loaded only with propellant.

And speakin' o' propellant, this be t' point where I inserted t' propellant plate assembly (from Step 3) into the aft end o' t' motor case assembly (from Step 12). Aye aye! Begad! Because t' fit o' these two assemblies was so snug, I was concerned about me ability t' slide them together with glue already applied and get them properly positioned before the glue "grabbed" and locked them in t' wrong position. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! So, arrr, I assembled them dry. Aye aye! I placed t' propellant plate assembly about 1/4 inch forward o' t' aft edge o' t' motor case assembly because most black powder motors have the ceramic nozzle stamp-formed a short distance inside t' back end, nay flush with t' end o' t' motor case. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! I pressed the propellant plate into t' motor case assembly until t' outer face sheet made a flush fit with t' casin' caps. After t' propellant plate was seated where I wanted it, I be able t' apply glue through t' openings in the propellant plate and around t' aft nozzle part. Blimey! I also applied a thin bead o' glue around t' front propellant end cap, me hearties, but builders should avoid usin' a thick fillet at t' front cap so that t' delay plate assembly will be able to fit.

Gettin' close to the end: I think that soakin' a few drops o' CA (cyanoacrylate, or "superglue") into t' outside corners of the motor case model would greatly improve t' durability o' this model. Aye aye! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! If handled with reasonable care, matey, shiver me timbers, this model will probably stand up well t' handling, me hearties, transport, matey, and other demands, but I think it couldn't hurt anythin' t' use a touch o' CA for an extra bit o' reinforcement on t' corners.

Finishing:
I should point out that this model really does nay require any paintin' at all, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, but be me own choice. Avast, me proud beauty! (Yeah, matey, I'm one of those obsessive-compulsive people that likes t' add me own little extra touches.) T' motor model works just fine without any paint at all. Begad! I applied a thin layer o' spackle t' t' "show" face o' me model and sanded it smooth (and mostly removed) before proceedin' with primer and paint. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! I think this just makes t' appearance o' the whole model a little more slick, and it makes a little better surface t' apply paint and paper wraps. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Any sort of normal water-based spackle from t' local hardware store can be used. Use 400 or 600 grit sandpaper t' smooth the surface, wipe any remainin' dust off t' surfaces for better paint adhesion, and use appropriate colors. I ended up usin' a combination o' tan and medium brown t' get an authentic "cardboard" color. I also masked off the areas around t' nozzle and used a gray spray paint t' color t' nozzle surfaces that t' paper wrap would nay cover. In hindsight, all this primin' and spray paintin' be probably more work than it was worth--I will probably just use brown and gray highlighters next time.

T' paper wraps were assembled usin' Duro All-Purpose spray adhesive on t' back face o' t' paper and on the matchin' areas o' t' motor model. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! (There are other brands such as 3M spray adhesive that will also work.) I masked the model t' prevent gettin' t' spray all over areas where I didn't want it, but all I had t' do was mark t' edges o' the area with maskin' tape and then tape on some sheets o' paper surroundin' this area. Ya scallywag! Blimey! As always, arrr, after sprayin' both surfaces with adhesive, you have t' align t' joinin' pieces very carefully before lettin' them touch. Blimey! I thought I got the outer paper wrap just a teeny bit crooked--my wife (an actual full time classroom teacher) said that it be just fine. T' inner paper wrap went on very easily and fit t' nozzle edges well. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! T' paper wrap for t' delay and ejection charge was a little mis-sized for t' model I built, but I think that be because I had a "production" wrap and a "beta" model that were a different size.

Summary:
T' completed motor model is very scale-like in appearance and should go a long way toward answerin' questions from new rocketeers about what is inside t' motor. Ya scallywag! T' wraps are designed with bright colors t' highlight t' important components and also have good labels for internal parts. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! All internal components are separately represented (even the clay cap over t' ejection charge) so thar be somethin' t' point t' when explainin' any part o' t' motor's operation. T' removable delay/ejection part is an excellent way t' show how booster motors function. Avast, me proud beauty! T' model is designed t' a good size that works very well for talkin' around a table or for standin' in front o' a classroom.

Since I made this beta build, arrr, FlisKits has added a matchin' demonstration model o' a model rocket igniter. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! This looks like a great tool for illustratin' t' parts o' an igniter, arrr, how t' use it, matey, and how t' handle it properly.

I don't have one o' these yet but it is definitely on me "go get" list.

Overall, I think part quality and fit is very good in t' new FlisKits motor model. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Instructions are clear and follow a logical approach, arrr, matchin' illustrations are very good, arrr, and beginners and inexperienced modelers should have no trouble buildin' this motor model. Avast! Nay bein' a "flight" model rocket, this kit automatically becomes much more forgivin' o' misplaced (or left out) glues, and does nay require some o' t' more intricate assembly and heavy-duty adhesives o' flyin' rockets. Begad! Well, matey, blow me down! Undoubtedly, some wise guy will insist this kit must be fiberglassed...just wait and see.