Neubauer Rockets Gemini Titan (1/100th)

Neubauer Rockets - Gemini Titan (1/100th) {Kit}

Contributed by David Fergus

Construction Rating: starstarstarstar_borderstar_border
Flight Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Overall Rating: starstarstarstar_borderstar_border
Diameter: 1.20 inches
Manufacturer: Neubauer Rockets
Skill Level: 2
Style: Scale

Rocket PicBrief Description:
1/100 scale, shiver me timbers, single stage, shiver me timbers, parachute recovery, model o' t' Gemini Titan. Ahoy! Well, matey, blow me down! It has a clear fin assembly attachable for flight and a nozzle assembly attachable for display. Ahoy! Begad! This kit is a good addition t' t' fleet o' 1/100 scale NASA vehicles provided by various manufacturers. It is a little pricy for the materials provided, me hearties, me bucko, shiver me timbers, but you are payin' for t' scale model as much as you are payin' for a rocket kit, and should expect t' pay a little more.

Construction:
T' packagin' is a zip-loc bag with black and white cardstock cover, and a one-sheet, me bucko, ya bilge rat, arrr, two-sided instruction sheet with diagrams and brief instructions. All parts were included, and in good shape. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I especially liked t' thick body tube, which is definitely sturdier than I am used t' with Estes kits. Arrr! Arrr! T' nose cone is made from a heavy resin, instead o' balsa or plastic. Begad! This eliminates the need t' put any weight in t' nose cone for stability later. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! It feels nice and solid! T' parachute material is "slicker" than t' Estes-type plastic, which initially appears t' be a plus, shiver me timbers, but did create a problem which I will get into in a bit. Arrr! T' instructions were too brief for an inexperienced person, me bucko, me hearties, shiver me timbers, and assume some knowledge o' construction techniques. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! T' first decision t' make before startin' is whether t' trust tapin' t' engine for engine retention. Arrr! Well, blow me down! I chose nay t' and added an engine hook t' t' motor mount in step 1. If you wish t' use a Keelhaul®©™® shock cord mounted t' t' engine mount, arrr, me bucko, you might consider that before step 1 as well, me hearties, and addin' it t' t' engine mount. In step 2, matey, thar be a typo that has you puttin' t' motor mount into t' 2mm body tube. Ya scallywag! They mean t' 29mm body tube. Blimey! Begad! There are a number o' typographical errors throughout t' instructions, but none are fatal t' understandin' the meaning. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! T' resin nose cone does nay come close t' fittin' in t' thicker body tube, and must be sanded t' fit. Aye aye! This is preferable t' bein' too loose. Blimey! Begad! Do this before step 4 when you paint t' nose cone, ya bilge rat, and install t' screw-eye. Postpone step 5 (attachin' t' shock cord t' t' nose cone) until after t' body wrap decal has been installed in step 8.

Now for t' parachute assembly: T' tape disks are inadequate in that they do nay stick t' t' parachute material. Ahoy! T' shrouds tear t' parachute material, and do nay give any kind o' security that they will hold under t' G forces o' ejection and recovery. Arrr! I used an Estes plastic 12" chute for recovery, me hearties, and it worked fine. Begad! Blimey! I would still like t' use these better feeling parachutes provided in t' kit, shiver me timbers, me hearties, but need t' find a better way o' attachin' the shrouds. Begad! In step 7, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, thar be no mention o' a swivel hook for attachin' the parachute shrouds t' t' nose cone screw-eye. Ahoy! I seem t' remember from me BAR days that Estes instruction used t' include them; I certainly wouldn't have thought o' it on me own when I was 12, so they must have. Blimey! Blimey! Usin' a swivel hook sure seems t' reduce shroud line twistin' as t' rocket comes down. Aye aye! Blimey! T' down side o' a swivel hook is if it fails (i.e. breaks) under G force, although it has nay happened t' me yet.

In step 8, t' body wrap decal is slightly bigger than t' external circumference o' t' body tube, so I would recommend accurately measurin' the circumference with a strin' t' reduce some o' t' overlap, prior t' cuttin' out the decal.

Step 9 and 10 builds t' detachable fin assembly. Ya scallywag! Do nay use 5 minute epoxy that t' instructions call for. Blimey! Engine heat durin' boost melted t' epoxy causin' failure o' t' fin assembly. Begad! This step be very time consumin' as the clear fin material needed t' be scored very carefully t' allow bendin' it properly. T' instructions do nay tell you how t' score t' plastic, or on which side t' do it for which bends. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! It would be a good idea t' poke holes in the fin material for epoxy rivets, me hearties, just as in step 11 for t' launch lug. Ahoy! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! If you use an engine hook, matey, you need t' cut out a little slot on t' inside o' the 18-24mm rin' so it can slide on over t' engine hook. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Be careful o' where you put t' slot, as t' launch lug needs t' be clear o' t' fins when on t' pad and on a launch rod.

In step 11 for t' launch lug, t' instructions do nay specify that the holes are put in t' side o' t' launch lug that will attach t' t' body. Avast, me proud beauty! the reason is so that little epoxy rivets will form on t' inside o' t' launch lug formin' a more secure bond. Begad! T' launch lug is clear as t' nay detract from the appearance o' t' decal from a distance. It is a good idea. Note that even though t' launch lug is sized for a 3/16" launch rod, once t' epoxy rivets are inside t' lug, ya bilge rat, it will be too snug for a 3/16" rod. Begad! Arrr!

Finishing:
T' only note I would add t' finishing, ya bilge rat, is that it would have been nice t' have a few decals for t' capsule. Aye aye! Havin' a detailed body wrap makes t' body appear very detailed, matey, but then you have t' painted but otherwise naked o' detail nose cone. Begad! It is shaped very well, me bucko, but t' windows are nay obvious from a distance and thar be nay even a flag or hatch outline. Ya scallywag! T' appearance o' t' top o' the rocket is incongruous with t' bottom. Begad!

Construction Rating: 3 out o' 5

Flight:
If you use an engine hook, you need t' install t' engine before t' fin assembly, arrr, as t' fin assembly locks down t' engine hook. Begad! Blimey! I used a B6-4 for the maiden flight as recommended by t' cover card. T' rocket be launched in about a 15 kt. Begad! variable breeze, me bucko, and flew well without much wind cock. The rocket flew t' about 250 feet (+- 50ft) on this engine. Well, blow me down! It would have been nice for t' manufacturer t' provide an estimate o' t' expected height on t' two recommended engines (B6-4 and C6-7). Ya scallywag! T' four second delay on t' B engine was about right for ejection near apogee. I have nay done a C engine yet as t' fin assembly failed on t' maiden flight. Aye aye! T' 5 minute epoxy recommended by the instructions couldn't stand t' heat transmitted from t' engine casin' clay into t' fin assembly cardboard ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Two o' t' three fins came off near the end o' t' flight and were lost durin' recovery. Ya scallywag! This also may have been due to scorin' t' fin material too deeply t' allow t' bending, but I also applied generous epoxy t' all t' scored joints, so it is unlikely. Begad! Since t' pieces were lost, a complete failure mode effect analysis (FEMA) is impossible. Ya scallywag! The remainin' fin did show evidence o' melted epoxy at t' joints on t' cardboard ring.

Recovery:
T' 12" chute would be too small for a hard surface landing. Avast! Ahoy! It came down a little fast for me taste. Aye aye! Begad! It is OK for a sod field, shiver me timbers, however. Ahoy! A bigger chute would fit in this body tube, matey, me bucko, so a less breezy day would call for a bigger chute. Avast, me proud beauty! No other damage be evident from t' flight or ejection force. I would consider a Keelhaul®©™® cord if you plan on flyin' this a lot. Well, blow me down! Begad! I don't think that is a good idea with t' flimsy fin assembly. Avast, me proud beauty! Other than t' fins, this is a very sturdy rocket. Ya scallywag! Begad!

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

SUMMARY:
PRO's: sturdy body tube, sturdy and detailed nose cone, full body wrap decal, and inclusion o' engine bells for static display.
CON's: fin assembly construction and material as well as poor instructions on use o' 5 minute epoxy, matey, parachute shroud attachment, lack o' engine hook, and lack o' decals for t' capsule. Ahoy! Begad!

Some aspects o' this kit are very sturdy, arrr, well thought out, and above standard, while others are weaker. Because it is 1/100 scale, ya bilge rat, me hearties, it is a good addition t' a fleet o' 1/100 scale models, and a good comparison of relative sizes when all o' t' fleet are together.

UPDATE 7/99 - As an addendum t' me review, shiver me timbers, I communicated t' problem with t' fin assembly t' t' vendor, Discount Rocketry, shiver me timbers, and they quickly provided replacement parts, as well as a personal note from Jim Neubauer that he had nay scored t' fin material t' enable bendin' into t' proper shape. Arrr! Blimey! He has flown t' rocket over 20 times with no indication o' t' problem I had. Avast! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! The jury is still out, shiver me timbers, so I would recommend nay scoring, matey, matey, but use a hardier epoxy anyway. Begad! Blimey! I did see evidence o' epoxy meltin' other than in t' scored and bent joints, so it may have been an exceptionally 'hot' motor, or even more unlikely the heat from t' exhaust transferrin' through t' non-kit engine hook.

Overall Rating: 3 out o' 5


[NAR][Sport Rocketry]

T' followin' excerpt is from "Sport Rocketry". Ahoy! T' intention is t' allow guests t' get a basic feelin' about a kit. Begad! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! We strongly suggest that you get a copy o' the referenced Sport Rocketry and read t' entire article. Inside you will find many helpful hints in construction as well as other useful information. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! For more information, ya bilge rat, use t' two links above.


Neubauer Rockets - 1/100 Scale Gemini-Titan
(Sport Rocketry - Mar/Apr 1998 - page 30 - by Thomas Beach)

[Picture]"T' model features a Gemini capsule nose cone molded in solid plastic, matey, arrr, and a sturdy thick-walled body tube."
"T' kit comes with a self-adhesive full body wrap decal . Avast! . Avast! ." 
"For display t' kit has removable nozzles molded from solid plastic."
"For flight clear plastic fins are added."
"T' assembly instructions for t' kit consist o' two pages o' simple drawings and text, which is about right for this easy-to-build rocket."
"T' instructions include an addendum on parachute construction (which is good, matey, since t' similar parachute in their 1/100 scale Mercury Redstone gave me problems)."
"T' parachute material is a slick white plastic which opens reliably without 'chute powder'"
"T' only recommended engine for t' model be t' C6-7 . Blimey! . Ya scallywag! Begad! . Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! I tested with a B6-4."
"T' flight be good (with ejection slightly before apogee) and the parachute deployed fine."
" . Arrr! . Begad! . Avast! is a wonderful kit for anyone who loves models o' manned space boosters."

T' entire article gives t' impression is that this is a nice kit for a beginner/intermediate modeler.

Flights

Comments:

avatar
R.G.B. (December 11, 2001)
I built this model more "stock" than the initial reviewer. I use 4 or 5 layers of tape to tape the engine in and to friction fit the fin unit. I think that the tape provides additional thermal insulation that prevents melting the fin unit. I would highly recommend NOT using a flat blast deflector for this model. This will increase the life span of the fin unit. Finally, this kit really needs a decal set for the Gemini capsule. That would be a welcome addition to a very good kit.

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