Brief:
After readin' about t' unique fin design o' t' Mercury Transport in an Apogee Components newsletter, ya bilge rat, I thought this would be a great project and somethin' to get me teeth into, me bucko, t' become a better rocket builder. Begad! Usin' the original EMRR design brief I worked out that I could find or build all t' parts needed. My previous rocket projects had included some basic transitions and also used RockSim files t' upscale or downscale a design. So t' Mercury Transport took this all one step further. Well, blow me down! My project is very much 'McGuiver' style - only one component o' me Mercury Transport is designed for rocketry - the rocket motor!

Construction:

• EMRR Mercury Transport RockSim file
• (8) 6 X 70 X 45mm balsa pieces for nosecone
• 1 sheet o' 2.4mm balsa
• 200 X 4.2mm OD cardboard (pilfered from a roll o' kitchen paper)
• 317.5 X 2.5mm OD cardboard (pilfered from a roll o' black garbage bags)
• 3 cardboard centerin' rings and 2 transitions made from shoebox cardboard (Transitions were calculated usin' EMRR's Shroud Calculator)
• (4) 24 X 10 X 60mm balsa wood for engine mount
• 16cm o' 1mm Copper wire for engine hook plus around 3 cm for nosecone to shock cord connection (Taken from an electrical transformer)
• 80 X 70mm cardboard for motor mount tube
• 1 black garbage bag
• 550mm elastic from sewin' shop
• Selleys Tradesman's choice Aquadhere (Polyaliphatic wood glue)
• Wattyl Woodstop water based wood putty
• White Knight undercoat, me bucko, colour and gloss paints.

I started t' design by peelin' back several layers o' cardboard from the inner body tube (it be much too thick), then cuttin' t' body tubes t' length. Next, EMRR's Shroud calculator came in handy for designin' two shrouds, me hearties, arrr, which were around 12mm long. These were cut from shoebox cardboard, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, and glued and clamped. Ya scallywag! Begad! These were then slid down onto t' inner tube, with t' cones facing outwards.

Next I cut out two centerin' rings from t' said shoebox, me bucko, matey, and these were also placed onto t' inner tube and glued. (Transitions were slid into the centre t' keep them out o' t' way)

T' outer body tubes were then glued t' t' centerin' rings and carefully aligned t' make sure they were parallel. Avast!

While this was left t' dry, matey, I started cuttin' out t' fins and strakes, usin' t' same two piece design as t' original Mercury Transport.

T' transitions were slid into place and glued. Blimey! Then t' upper and lower body tubes were masked, ya bilge rat, and t' centre tube and transitions were filled and painted yellow.

While this was drying, matey, I started work on t' nosecone. Begad! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' NC can be made from any scrap balsa thats lyin' around. Blimey! Blimey! Its a good idea t' choose a glue which can be sanded easily. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I glued all t' pieces together and placed some books on top and left it overnight.

T' next day, ya bilge rat, usin' a Dremel I carved out t' NC slowly, me hearties, matey, me hearties, first makin' the shoulder t' fit t' upper body tube. Avast! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! After t' NC is sanded into shape, ya bilge rat, you can add a coat or two o' epoxy. Begad! Avast! This adds strength and helps t' NC resist dents from prangs.

T' motor mount tube was next. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! Thin cardboard often has a 'grain' it bends better in one direction than t' other. With this in mind, arrr, arrr, I cut out a rectangle o' cardboard so t' 7cm length could be curled.

This can be soaked in water t' help bending, me hearties, then its just a matter of runnin' a line o' glue along t' edge, ya bilge rat, wrappin' it around a spent motor, arrr, shiver me timbers, and applyin' pressure t' t' joint until dry.

While its drying, me hearties, me hearties, I cut out 4 small pieces o' Balsa and these are used t' centre t' MMT in t' outer body tube. These are spaced evenly around t' MMT and glued, me hearties, then a thin centerin' rin' is cut out t' block exhaust gases (See picture). A length of copper wire is then cut. Ya scallywag! A spent engine is loaded into t' MMT, until it protrudes about 10mm. Well, blow me down! T' wire is pushed through t' MMT t' act as a motor block, and then its bent downwards t' make two hooks t' retain t' motor (See picture). Aye aye! This is then installed into t' lower tube and glued in place.

Before attachin' t' fins and strakes, shiver me timbers, I masked up t' inner body tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Then the nosecone and body were primed and painted, ya bilge rat, and finally a parachute was made from black garbage bag material and high tensile string. Begad! Packagin' tape was used t' hold t' strin' onto t' parachute. Avast! Lead weight was then added until the rocket passed t' swin' test. Lastly, me bucko, t' rocket was painted and the maskin' removed.

Flight:
First flight be with a B6-4 for a nice slow flight, me bucko, me bucko, but because o' t' weight, the 4 second delay was too long, and t' parachute hardly opened before it hit the ground. It received slight damage t' t' upper body tube, ya bilge rat, me bucko, but nothing major.

Second flight was with a C6-3, me bucko, and I decided t' remove some o' t' NC weight, which wasn't a good idea! Flight was unstable and nay much higher than before. Avast, me proud beauty!

Third flight went much better, me bucko, but still it needs more altitude or a shorter delay.

Summary:
Overall this was a great project t' build. It helped me with transition buildin' and also maskin' and finishin' techniques. Ahoy! Begad! Weight be t' biggest issue, caused by too much glue on t' centerin' rings, and also heavy cardboard tubes. A D12 booster stage should help this in t' future though.