Sunward Aerospace Rocket Glider

Sunward Aerospace - Rocket Glider {Kit} (014) [?-?]

Contributed by Chan Stevens

Construction Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Flight Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Overall Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Length: 14.00 inches
Manufacturer: Sunward Aerospace
Skill Level: 5
Style: Glider

Sunward Aersopace Rocket Glider

Brief:
Slightly misnamed, this is a boost glider, ya bilge rat, nay strictly a rocket glider. Aye aye! Avast! It's a standard boost pod configuration made from laser-cut parts with an easy t' build design.

Construction:
Parts were all good quality and t' laser-cut work was very good with clean cuts and only small areas needed t' be finished off t' free t' parts. Blimey! Blimey! In t' surprisingly large bag I found:

  • BT-56 (8") body tube
  • Plastic nose cone with canopy
  • BT-20 motor tube
  • 20/56 centerin' rings
  • Metal motor clip
  • Balsa win' halves
  • Balsa stabilizer halves
  • Balsa rudder
  • Balsa boom
  • Streamer/rubber shock cord
  • Peel n stick trim decals

Construction is fairly easy on this although is a bit time consuming. Begad! It is rated a skill level 4 kit, however, I think that could be overstatin' t' complexity a bit. Avast! I wouldn't necessarily recommend this as a first glider, but if you have any previous boost glider experience under your belt you'll find this fairly easy.

Sunward's instructions are clearly written and include decent illustrations, shiver me timbers, and if you're so inclined are written in both English and French. Nay knowin' French, I find t' duplication distractin' and would rather see them go t' route that most instruction manuals take these days--written start t' finish in one language (English), me hearties, followed by start t' finish in a second language.

T' pod assembly is quick and easy work: slot t' BT-20 motor tube, slip on t' motor hook, matey, glue on a couple o' centerin' rings, matey, then glue t' assembly inside t' larger pod tube. You'll finish it up by gluin' on t' launch lug and a retainer assembly where t' glider hook slips in durin' boost. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I can understand t' efficiency o' usin' Sunward's stock BT-56 tubin' and nose cone, but for this glider design, t' larger/bulky pod tube is a bit o' a weakness. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Most other boost gliders use minimum diameter tube in their pod design.

T' glider construction is where t' real work takes place. Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! While thar are a few low-effort designs out thar (any Edmonds kit, me hearties, Quest QEZ glider, etc.), ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, most gliders involve a lot o' sandin' and hand work t' properly airfoil t' flyin' surfaces. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I spent a good hour progressin' from 120 grit down t' 400 grit, workin' t' airfoil into me wings and stabilizer. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! For this design, only t' top surfaces are airfoiled.

T' win' halves are designed t' be mounted at an 18 degree dihedral. This is a pretty detailed measure, ya bilge rat, arrr, and I think most builders would benefit by havin' t' math done for them by callin' out t' target height o' t' win' tip from a flat surface instead o' a dihedral angle.

After sanding, me bucko, you can bond t' win' halves, me hearties, stabilizer halves, and rudder t' t' boom. Arrr! Ya scallywag! T' instructions were nay that clear, but if you pay careful attention t' t' drawings, you'll see that t' stabilizer is t' be mounted flat on top o' t' boom. Ya scallywag! I deviated a bit from t' plan, me hearties, and in order t' build a slight incidence into this (generatin' more lift), shiver me timbers, mounted them t' t' side o' t' boom at a slight cant.

Construction wraps up with attachin' t' rubber shock cord via paper tri-fold mount t' t' BT-56. Well, blow me down! (I'm nay big fan o' paper tri-fold, but noticed this pattern appeared a little too small for t' width o' t' supplied rubber.)

Finishing:
Gliders in general should nay be painted. Ya scallywag! T' header card for this one shows an unfinished bird, me hearties, trimmed with a couple red checkerboard pattern decals. That's t' scheme I went with, me hearties, but you could also consider usin' a light thinned dope on this or Japanese tissue or even colored magic markers. Begad! If your glider goes very high or far, ya bilge rat, colorin' can aid quite a bit in trackin' and recovery.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight and Recovery:
T' recommended motors for this are A2-2 (good luck findin' those in t' US), B4-2, ya bilge rat, and B6-3 (or in t' US, me bucko, probably have t' go with a -2).

Prior t' flight, I spent an evenin' hand tossin' and trimmin' t' glider for flight. After followin' t' instructions for glider construction (with noted slight deviation for stabilizer), arrr, shiver me timbers, I found me CG well aft o' t' win' aft edge. Aye aye! As a general rule o' thumb, t' CG o' a glider should be right at t' CP, ya bilge rat, which tends t' be where t' wing's airfoil is (roughly a third o' t' way back from t' front edge). Arrr! Aye aye! I needed t' add 5 BBs for nose weight before I could get t' glider t' fly through a stall.

For t' first flight, arrr, I opted for a B4-2. I got a very good boost, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, loopin' a little durin' coast phase. Aye aye! At apogee, matey, I got a clean transition and t' glider spun around into a decent glide for around 60-90 seconds although it still showed a bit o' a porpoise stall. Aye aye! I added a little clay and flew it a second time, me bucko, after switchin' t' a B6-2. Avast, me proud beauty! T' B6 turned out t' be too much thrust and I lost one win' half durin' boost. T' wings mounted at a dihedral angle are very precariously bonded t' me boom.

Havin' had t' reattach t' wing, I'll now be lookin' at more trimming/adjusting, shiver me timbers, although based on t' first flight, I would rate this a pretty good glider.

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
I would rate this a 4 as a good boost glider although it's nay exactly high performance. It's heavy duty enough t' handle winds o' 6-8mph, ya bilge rat, so you don't have t' wait for one o' those perfect weather days t' fly.

Its main PROs are solid/stable design and it is fairly easy t' build. Begad! Blimey! It's main CON would be t' short, fat pod. Aye aye! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! I'd also consider changin' t' a pair o' tip dihedrals rather than a single win' center dihedral.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flights

Comments:

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H.W.H. (May 8, 2007)
This was a good review. I had good luck, or should I say better luck with my glider after spending some time sanding the wing. I used a flat sanding stick with fine sandpaper glued to it. The wing was sanded for a better airfoil by thinning and tapering the trailing edge of the wing. Then the wing tips were sanded to a thinner section. Finally the edges of the horizontal stabilizer and vertical fin were sanded round. The glider seemed to tighten up in a turn during test glides so extra orange paint was sprayed onto one wing tip to help pull it out of the turn. The next flight was fantastic with a long smooth 1 minute plus glide
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Kirk Greenfield (July 5, 2014)

Thank you for the review and suggestions. I found an old dusty package for this kit at the area hobby shop and invested. I too find the English and French instructions interspersed a distraction, but acceptable.

Noticed this is a skill level 5, somewhat more advanced than I have attempted before, but with about five rockets from level 2 to 3 under my belt, I figure I'm ready to try this. Plus, I got a deal on it, and the hobby shop clerk got to move something that wasn't moving.

I'm curious about where to position the launch lug on the body tube. Should it be at the base, flush with the end of the tub, as the rudder is? The instructions don't say and there is no diagram.

Second, why is there no instruction on how to hold the wings while they are gluing to the boom? So you're supposed to hold them to 18 degrees each. Just how is one supposed to do that AND attach them to the boom? The boom is only 1/8 inch wide on top...that's 1/16 or LESS to adhere to.  Plus, how does one hold it in position long enough for yellow wood glue to dry?  Seems like there has to be a better way to communicate this or SHOW how it is to be done.  I guestimated, and found I have 14 degrees dihedral angle...not the 18 recommended.  I've been told to attempt to fly it this way and add some weight to the nose to trim it.  But the instructions fail to say HOW or WHERE to add the weight other than "use some scrap wood on the nose"...  HUH?  .

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