Brief:
For those that want a bit more o' a challenge than t' traditional 3FNC, shiver me timbers, consider t' Decim8, ya bilge rat, which as Nigel Tufnel would say, me bucko, goes t' eleven, ya bilge rat, and that's better than 3, innit? This kit is a challengin' build rated at skill level 4, shiver me timbers, but will reward t' careful modeller with a beautiful futuristic alien battle ship.

Construction:
Numbered kit 44 has been sacrificed for this build, ya bilge rat, matey, as I jumped on this one shortly after it was released. Ahoy! T' part quality is very good. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! My first impression lookin' over t' spread o' parts was "that's a whole lot o' body tubes for just one nose cone".

T' parts list includes:

• BT-50 body tubes--2 18" lengths, shiver me timbers, 2 9-inch lengths
• BT-20 motor/stuffer tube
• BT-60 rin' fin
• BT-2.5 body tube (2)
• Balsa nose cone (1 for BT-55 2 for BT-2.5's)
• 20/50 centerin' rings (4)
• 20/5 centerin' rin' motor block
• Balsa fin stock
• Laser-cut fiber fins (8)
• Pin' pong ball transition
• Wood dowel for trim
• Keelhaul®©™®+elastic shock cord
• Plastic chute
• Waterslide decals

This is one project where you DO NOT want t' open t' bag, read t' directions through, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, then start building. Arrr! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Take me advice and put away all glues. Aye aye! Blimey! OK, me hearties, me bucko, now start workin' through t' directions cutting, me bucko, shaping, arrr, sandin' t' pieces, followin' t' very well written and illustrated directions. Avast! Blimey! You'll spend t' better part o' a weekend afternoon or a few weeknights just creatin' t' various pieces involved. Aye aye! Blimey! Now lay everythin' out, me bucko, dry fittin' subassemblies where possible, and take a good look at t' thing. Avast! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Unless you want t' wimp out and fly it nekkid, or go with a basic 1-2 color paint scheme, you're goin' t' need t' spend a considerable amount o' time gettin' your head around how t' finish this model--which tube spirals t' fill (some inside spirals as well), what t' mask, what t' spray, me hearties, what t' paint by hand, etc. Begad! Blimey! There are so many funky shapes and joints involved in this that you simply can't go about doin' a decent finish job on an already built model unless you have exceptional skills.

That said, this is rated a skill level 4 kit and probably worthy o' that rating, matey, arrr, though t' Fliskits Saturn 1b rates betwixt a 3 and 5 dependin' on level o' complexity modelled, shiver me timbers, me bucko, and I would rate this a good step or two below that in terms o' challenge. Ya scallywag! T' construction and basic build is nay hard at all, me bucko, just a significant amount o' work. The finishin' can be extremely challenging, shiver me timbers, but nay that bad if planned out in advance. Ahoy! Unfortunately, t' instructions are by necessity generalized and walk through construction, leavin' finishin' t' t' modeller, though thar are warnings throughout that consideration should be made t' pre-paintin' where applicable.

Construction starts by workin' on t' pin' pong ball (ppb) transition. Arrr! In other kits involvin' ppb's, matey, you generally use a body tube t' mark a circle, cut it out, then insert t' tube and use t' shadow o' t' tube t' mark the correspondin' circle on t' other half o' t' ppb. Arrr! That technique doesn't quite work in this case, shiver me timbers, because one o' the holes is sized for a BT-20 and t' other for a BT-50, plus one o' t' launch lugs rests against t' BT-50 and goes through t' ppb. Blimey! T' deal with this problem, ya bilge rat, you get a wrap-around template t' slip over t' ppb, markin' both holes and launch lug slot locations. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! It's a little tricky t' work with, especially since circle patterns don't wrap over the surface o' a sphere very well, me bucko, so I cut t' circles a bit undersized on purpose, then sanded them open a bit as needed for a good fit around t' tubes. Ya scallywag! Aye aye!

T' motor tube is a BT-20 with thrust ring, shiver me timbers, me bucko, metal hook, and pair o' centerin' rings t' slide into a BT-50. Begad! It's a fairly long BT-20, arrr, servin' as a stuffer tube t' help build up pressure through t' roughly 36" length o' BT-50 that t' ejection charge would have t' push through t' deploy a chute. That's a bit much for an 18mm motor, thus the use o' t' extended BT-20 t' reduce t' volume o' interior air that needs t' be moved. Arrr! T' BT-20 gets marked for 8 coolant fins via a wrap-around guide, t' be dealt with later. Aye aye!

T' BT-50 also gets marked for t' same 8 coolant fins usin' another wrap-around guide, me bucko, as well as a number of fins. Ahoy! Be careful extendin' lines, as thar are so many lines so closely spaced they can run together. Ahoy! Avast! T' instructions suggest only extendin' t' coolant fin lines up about 2", and t' other fin lines startin' at about 2" and extendin' t' length o' one o' t' BT-50's. Begad! I'll toss out another tip from one o' me D'oh! moments, me hearties, which I believe Jim is addressin' in subsequent runs o' t' kit. Aye aye! When matin' t' BT-20 t' t' BT-50, me hearties, you're supposed t' make sure the coolant fin lines synch up. Avast, me proud beauty! There are 8 lines on each tube, so takin' any one line on t' BT-20 and linin' it up t' a matchin' line on t' BT-50 leaves 8 options, all o' which would work. 2 o' those options would be bad, matey, though. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! As you line them up, pay attention t' where t' engine hook on t' BT-20 sits. Look further down along that line towards the BT-50 and see what fin lines that sits near. If your hook is anywhere near either o' t' two "main fin" lines, rotate t' BT-20 and line up t' a different coolant fin line. This is because t' main fins wind up anchorin' to t' BT-20 and t' BT-50, me bucko, and you don't want one o' them sittin' on t' motor hook, matey, as was t' case with me build. Begad!

I should point out, me bucko, me bucko, matey, by t' way, me hearties, that along with all t' tube marking, thar's plenty o' tube cuttin' involved as well. Ahoy! Avast! There's almost no regular, ya bilge rat, squared end tube treatment on this model. Ya scallywag! I think only t' motor tube and two little BT-2.5 tubes slipped into side pods wind up goin' onto t' model without some level o' scalloping.

In t' case o' t' lower BT-50, shiver me timbers, t' forward end gets trimmed and slotted. Ya scallywag! Avast! T' upper BT-50 gets trimmed and slotted on one end, and if done correctly, ya bilge rat, me bucko, t' two trimmed ends slide together along t' slots, me bucko, ya bilge rat, overlappin' through about half t' diameter. Ahoy! Arrr! That leaves two structural issues--the need for a stronger joint than two slots in t' tubes, and somethin' t' seal off t' air flow t' enable pressurized ejection through what is basically a ducted tube joint. T' structural issue is handled by a pair o' little crescent shaped braces formed usin' laser-cut bulkheads attached t' a cutaway section o' centerin' ring. Avast! T' air seal issue is handled via balsa bulkheads cut t' a roughly parabolic shape, then sanded and trimmed t' fit in t' ends o' t' mated tubes. Avast! Well, blow me down! This is one o' those construction steps where it's critical t' plan t' paint first. Avast! If you build "stock", you attach t' crescent supports t' t' outside o' each tube, slide them together, then cut/trim/glue in t' balsa panels. I wanted a perfect fit for t' panels and wanted t' fill t' grains, so they had to be glued in before joinin' t' tubes together, which meant me crescent supports had t' be premounted on t' insides of t' tubes rather than t' outsides. Avast! Blimey! This probably doesn't make sense readin' it, me hearties, but if you look at t' photos, then imagine tryin' t' mount t' supports externally you'll see thar's no way t' slide t' tubes together. Arrr! Avast!

Movin' along, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, arrr, with t' BT-50's trimmed and mated, me hearties, and t' BT-20 stuffer tube glued into t' lower BT-50, you then slide t' ppb transition over t' BT-20, ya bilge rat, arrr, slidin' t' larger hole over t' BT-50, until t' BT-50 hits t' inside wall o' t' ppb. Ahoy! Avast! Insert a launch lug, me hearties, trim t' ends (another case where this is much easier t' do offline before gluin' on t' ppb), and then mount another lug further up t' line.

With t' ppb in place, shiver me timbers, next up is mountin' t' coolant fins. Begad! These are 8 laser-cut fiber fins that are just amazing. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! They have tiny root feet that mount t' t' BT-50 just ahead o' t' ppb, then they curve around t' ppb and touch down on t' BT-20 that extends out beyond t' aft end o' t' BT-50. Arrr! They then curve back up from t' BT-20 and sort o' hang out a couple inches behind t' BT-20 like t' tentacles o' an octopus. Blimey! There's a small section o' BT-60 that slips inside these tentacles, me bucko, me bucko, perfectly fitting. Begad! O' course, matey, this is probably another one o' those cases where if you want t' ppb, me hearties, coolant fins, BT-20 and/or BT-60 t' be anythin' other than a single color, if you've used glue at this point you're in [deep dudu].

Buildin' up t' lower BT-50 now, ya bilge rat, t' main fins go on. They have long roots, then have arced cut outs t' slip over t' ppb, and very small root sections that reach down t' anchor t' t' BT-20.

Each main fin gets a side pod subassembly attached t' t' tip. Avast, me proud beauty! T' side pods are a very funky assembly o' two pieces of scalloped and sliced BT-50 that slide together, shiver me timbers, with a section o' BT-2.5 slipped inside their seam. Avast, me proud beauty! A balsa nose cone fits t' BT-2.5 finishin' t' subassembly. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! In t' photos, arrr, you can see that in me case, ya bilge rat, arrr, I painted each BT-50 piece independently, ya bilge rat, maskin' off betwixt colors at t' slot where they join together. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! I also decided nay t' actually paint t' tube interiors that would be exposed, but instead used some blue glittery contact paper purchased from Aerospace Speciality Products. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! T' BT-2.5 and cones got black metallic pre-paint before assembly. Try paintin' these subassemblies anythin' other than one main color--I dare ya... Begad!

There's still more t' build out beyond t' pods--each gets a pair o' fins mounted into t' tube seams, with the fins spread out at about a 70 degree angle (aided by a little cut out angle template). Avast, me proud beauty! T' tip o' each o' these fins gets a wood dowel gun, trimmed t' match t' angle o' t' fins.

But wait, ya bilge rat, thar's more. I said thar were 11 fins, arrr, and so far we've only covered 6 (those coolant fins don't count). Begad! Each o' t' pod fin pairs gets another extension type fin tacked into their root joint, shiver me timbers, basically extendin' the main fin line if everythin' has been mounted correctly. Those, me bucko, in turn, arrr, matey, get tiny little guns mounted t' them that are built up from a toothpick, wrapped with paper or tape, me bucko, slipped into an 1/8" launch lug. Avast, me proud beauty!

OK, that's 8. Aye aye! 3 more t' go...On t' "bottom" o' t' lower BT-50 thar are a pair o' cut off arc fins/stabilizers. You'll find very few fins on this use nothin' but straight lines, which had me mutterin' t' myself as I be cuttin' everythin' out. Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty!

Still leaves us with one fin. Avast, me proud beauty! On t' top o' t' lower BT-50 is somethin' called an antenna. Apparently spaceships don't have cable TV, so they need somethin' resemblin' a satellite dish, matey, and for proper reception it has to be raised up a bit t' avoid t' cosmic interference o' t' coolant fins. Ya scallywag! There's one fin actin' as an antenna mount (naturally, shiver me timbers, arrr, with a curved leadin' edge). Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! At t' tip o' this goes a short section o' BT-2.5 (scalloped, matey, arrr, o' course--can't have squared tubes on this beauty). On t' end o' that goes t' antenna, ya bilge rat, which consists o' a rolled paper cone front section, glued t' one o' t' cut out sections from t' ppb for t' back end.

All that's left o' construction be t' nose cone screw eye/anchor, and cutting/makin' t' chute, fairly standard stuff. All told, you've got t' 11 fins, arrr, ya bilge rat, arrr, 8 coolant fins, me bucko, 11 different sections o' body tube (6 o' which are slotted/joined, with 7 different scalloped ends), ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, and a poopload o' other do-dads involved.

Finishing:
T' write-up for finishin' on this could take another couple pages, so I'll grossly abbreviate it and refer you to t' various pics included.

Tubes were all treated with t' usual Fill N Finish, diluted about 20% with water and brushed into t' spirals. T' close-up photos still show t' spirals, me bucko, but that's more a result o' t' paint (to follow). Begad! Blimey! Just about everythin' on this be prepainted offline before assembly.

For t' black and silver, shiver me timbers, matey, arrr, I used Rustoleum metallics. By metallic, I mean t' stuff that has a glittery/sparkling appearance, shiver me timbers, arrr, nay t' stuff that has a smooth mirror-like gloss. Aye aye! Blimey! For example, ya bilge rat, t' black is 7250 midnight black metallic. It's a wonderful paint for certain types o' rockets, ya bilge rat, and this is one o' those. FWIW, I think it's also t' perfect paint for t' Alien 8 and Night Whisper, matey, two other futuristic Fliskit models.

For t' other colors, I used Krylon X-metal paints, which claim t' produce an anodized-lookin' finish. Blimey! They do tend to result in pretty good metallic finishes, though with that sparkle/glitter, matey, nay a mirror shine. Avast, me proud beauty! They require a special primer which is a silver metallic base coat. Ya scallywag! While I do generally like t' finished color, arrr, they are almost translucent and therefore do nay cover well. They also are more prone t' runs than other Krylons and they really hate bein' sprayed in t' cold. Blimey! For most o' this model, I've got two primer coats only lightly sanded, and at least 3, matey, in some cases 5 finish coats. With 5-7 coats o' paint, thar are still some slight traces where you can spot t' pencil lines I drew on t' unpainted tubes. Avast, me proud beauty! You can also see t' spirals, nay because they aren't filled, but because t' filler is a different color than t' tube and took t' paint differently. This is all only apparent at very close examination, though--from a foot away it's a fantastic lookin' model.

There are some waterslide decals included in this. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! They go on easily, but I've got t' pan them a bit as t' weakest aspect o' t' kit. Aye aye! On t' cover, they add some excellent accent trim. When applied t' anythin' other than very light colors, though, they fade into t' background. Avast! On t' black surfaces, they'd be invisible. Well, blow me down! These really need t' be silk screened and/or printed over a base coat o' white, arrr, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, somethin' that I believe is currently bein' considered for t' next batch o' kits.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
After all t' work t' build and finish, I be anxious t' get in t' first flight, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, so I braved t' elements and schlepped out on a cold winter day. Arrr! Highs in t' teens, winds 6-8 mph, 4-5 inches o' fresh snow cover. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! I've got a stash o' C5-3's t' burn down, me bucko, shiver me timbers, so substituted one o' those for t' recommended C6-3.

Boost be straight up in t' moderate winds, with a little bit o' a roll on t' way up, matey, maybe 2 rotations. Apogee was in t' neighborhood o' 300-350 feet, and while t' delay was a little early, that's what you want (versus nose down) in terms o' deployment on somethin' like this with lots o' do-dads stickin' out t' snag a shroud line.

Recovery:
I hadn't realized it at t' time, but this kit apparently features voice-activated dual deployment, clearly another element o' t' advanced alien technology reflected in t' design. When t' ejection charge fired, me bucko, t' chute came out, but as is often t' case with plastic chutes in cold weather, me bucko, it decided t' stick closed. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! T' rocket descended horizontally, matey, arrr, though, ya bilge rat, arrr, so I wasn't too worried, but be jokin' t' t' handful o' fellow flyers watchin' that it was dual deploy. Well, blow me down! At about 75 feet, shiver me timbers, I said "and now is when t' main should be deploying", at which point t' stuck chute decided t' unfurl, arrr, right on cue. Begad! Blimey! Just enough time t' slow it down for a perfect landin' within 25 yards o' the pad.

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
What can I say? This is a wild and cool design and a very enjoyable build, though can be very challengin' t' paint, and it flies great. T' decals are definitely a con, me hearties, though a small one. It has jumped up near t' top o' me favorite Fliskits models, and I highly recommend it for t' experienced modeller.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5