Brief:
This rocket is a high power flight capable, me bucko, me hearties, shiver me timbers, bein' large it is supposed t' make a low and slow flight. Begad! I am writin' this review because John Cocker's review does nay seem detailed enough and his article is for Level 2 capable EZI-65 but that would be overkill if one only wants t' use this rocket for his Level 1. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad!

Construction:
T' kit came in a plastic bag, one long tube with slots for airframe, and one shorter tube as a payload section. Begad! T' nose cone is quite large. Well, blow me down! It came with only 2 plywood centerin' rings, shiver me timbers, and I recommend gettin' an additional centering rin' o' t' same size. Begad! T' motor mount tube is a little short, it is better to get somethin' a little longer, but t' stock should be okay. Blimey! T' fins are regular plywood. Ahoy! Unlike t' LOC IV which has through-the-wall fins but nay to the motor mount, shiver me timbers, this kit's fins goes t' t' motor mount which is one o' the reasons why I chose it over t' LOC IV. Ya scallywag! T' shock cord is standard nylon elastic which be t' same kind as in your underpants, ya bilge rat, only that it should stay where it belongs, in your underpants. Get at least 20 ft o' tubular nylon or Keelhaul®©™®, if you use nylon somehow protect t' first 3 ft o' t' nylon from ejection charge, shiver me timbers, or else after a few flights t' nylon will burn and break. Arrr! Well, blow me down! I don't recommend usin' t' LOC shock cord mount either, instead get an eye bolt and some washers. Well, blow me down! Drill a hole in one o' t' centerin' rings and bolt t' eye bolt and put washer betwixt t' eye and t' centerin' rin' and another between the centerin' rin' and t' nut. Arrr! Make sure t' eye is parallel t' t' airframe as you will nay have much space for t' eyebolt. Avast! Begad! Attach a quick link t' the eyebolt, matey, and ALWAYS put some epoxy on t' thread o' t' eyebolt (but NOT the quick link!) because you won't have access t' t' other side o' t' centering rin' in case t' eyebolt/nuts loosens. Arrr! Avast! One thin' I like about quick links is that it allows you t' basically disassemble t' rocket and remove all the recovery harness t' make it easier t' paint.

If one has good experience with buildin' LPR kits, one should nay need the instructions. Arrr! Begad! I never read t' instructions while puttin' together t' kit, arrr, matey, shiver me timbers, so I can't comment on that, but I do know t' instructions comes on t' back of the card o' t' packaging. T' rocket is very large when put together, if one has nay built rockets weightin' over a pound, matey, arrr, this rocket will surprise you! I haven't built many rocket weightin' over a pound except t' NCR Lance Beta and this rocket makes t' Lance Beta look like a dwarf!

One thin' about t' fin attachments, me bucko, me hearties, do use internal fillets after gluing the fins in place. Aye aye! I recommend 3 CR's because one centerin' rin' would go on top o' t' MMT (that's t' one with t' eyebolt and quick links, matey, me bucko, me hearties, make sure the eye faces up!) and a second CR goes on top o' t' fin tab. (Before doin' any of this please try t' peel off t' glassine layer o' t' MMT, me hearties, it allows t' glue to soak in makin' a stronger bond.) After t' glue cures glue t' whole assembly (MMT) into t' tube, makin' sure t' second CR lines up with t' top of t' slots. Well, blow me down! Then glue each fin and fillet t' inside. After all t' joints inside has been filleted and t' glue has cured, ya bilge rat, go ahead and glue in t' last CR. Ahoy! Aye aye! I know it's a bit o' an overkill t' do internal fillets, but it's better safe than sorry (this rocket will be me L1 cert flight so I want t' make sure nothin' goes wrong...)

Finishing:
Always take t' nose cone, ya bilge rat, wash it with soap and water t' remove t' release agents. Ya scallywag! Begad! Even after doin' this t' paint still doesn't like t' stick t' t' nose cone... I used Polyfiber UV fill prime, at 38 dollars a quart it is a bit too expensive but it sands like a dream and it might be a good idea t' use anyway since UV lights will damage epoxy and your rocket is held together with epoxy so its better t' keep them out. Begad! A few coats on t' rocket and wait a few hours makin' sure t' primer dried, then sand, sand, sand! This stuff sands as good as Elmer's wood filler. I then took t' rocket apart since this is such a large rocket, I painted t' nose cone and t' payload and t' body section separately. I painted t' nose cone gold and t' payload is painted red with black roll patterns, me hearties, and t' body is white with a red fin can. Blimey! Arrr! I used krylon and after everythin' dried I went over with clear coat then Lacquer and it makes a very shiny and glossy finish.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
My first flight on a G80 is very good, me hearties, perfect boost and recovery despite the strong wind. Avast! I was goin' t' certify on this rocket so I had t' make sure everythin' works t' way it is supposed t' work. T' parachute came out at apogee and it drifted quite a bit (because o' t' wind). I had t' walk a bit to get t' rocket back, shiver me timbers, it landed without damage.

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
I feel this rocket is good and it is easy t' put together. Arrr! Anyone who puts together a LPR should be able t' put this kit together, however t' shock cord isn't that good, and they could use a longer motor mount.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5