Brief
A largish 2.6 inch rocket with a 24mm motor mount. This kit is pretty nice built stock, ya bilge rat, but came out before t' new E9 motor be available. Ahoy! Arrr! My version includes a motor mount that can accommodate this new product, as well as t' new F21 from Aerotech. Aye aye! Begad! It also includes an ejection baffle, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, and fins that go through t' wall made from basswood that are nay a part o' t' original kit.

Construction
T' kit comes in a very colorful box. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! All parts are typical good Estes quality. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! T' balsa is a tiny bit softer than I'd prefer for somethin' this size, matey, me hearties, and t' die cruncher could stand a little sharpening, matey, too. Arrr! More on this later. Begad! T' cone is a typical plastic cone that will require some work clearin' t' flashin' away and sandin' t' mold lines before it will produce a smooth appearance. Avast, me proud beauty! T' 'chute, motor mount parts and shock cord come together in a plastic bag. A very nice bright red decal sheet is also included. Well, blow me down! As always with Estes kits, a well written and illustrated set o' instructions make t' kit complete. Aye aye!

T' balsa fins that come with this kit are perfectly fine and I would have no trouble usin' them and flyin' it that way on even an F motor. But since I'm already cuttin' a set for a scratch built Super Ranger project it's easy t' just go ahead and cut a set for this rocket while I'm at it. Begad! Begad! T' new fins are o' 1/8 basswood, and go through t' airframe and attach t' t' motor mount. Begad! Through t' wall fins are hard t' break off; I like basswood because it isn't a whole lot heavier than balsa, shiver me timbers, me hearties, but it is a lot harder and t' grain won't require so much sandin' and filling. Avast! So a set was cut, complete with a tab t' pass through t' wall and with a notch in t' root edge t' accommodate t' motor hook retainin' tube. T' fins were sanded round on all edges except for t' root and tab.

T' two centerin' rings at t' motor end were glued on per t' instructions except that t' forward motor rin' was a little bit farther forward t' allow for t' fin tab. Ahoy! Since t' new E9 motors are a bit longer than t' D's I located t' motor block 90mm in and set t' hook so that it hangs over t' end 5mm. Arrr! A 95mm motor will now fit perfectly. Well, blow me down! T' hook be nay passed through t' wall o' t' motor tube as shown in t' instructions because it would get in t' way o' t' longer motor. It be bent back on itself instead, matey, me hearties, and hooks on t' retainer tube. Arrr! Begad! A spacer will be required when usin' normal D size motors. This spacer is cut from an expended D12 and goes into t' motor mount ahead o' t' new motor, and is removed when usin' t' longer E9.

T' rocket also uses a pair o' centerin' rings at t' front o' t' stuffer tube t' add strength t' t' two piece airframe. Arrr! This arrangement can be used t' make an ejection baffle with just two additional parts and very little weight gain. Begad! First, t' third centerin' rin' was glued onto t' tube 5" from t' top. Aye aye! Well, matey, blow me down! Then a plug was glued into t' top o' t' motor tube; this plug is simply a stack o' balsa disks glued together. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! A BT-50 size balsa block would also have worked. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! T' block be soaked with CA t' help protect it from t' hot ejection charge. Next, arrr, me hearties, a group o' holes was cut in t' tube betwixt t' plug and t' centerin' ring. Blimey! I'll normally cut t' holes in three rows evenly spaced around t' tube, me hearties, matey, each row havin' three or four 1/4 inch holes. Next, arrr, arrr, shiver me timbers, a 5" piece o' BT-60 was cut from stock and a similar set o' holes be cut in it. T' edges o' t' holes were touched with thin CA on both parts. Ahoy! Begad! T' BT-60 be glued t' t' last o' t' rings. Aye aye! Three equally sized and spaced notches were cut out o' t' edge o' t' rin' - t' remainin' tabs are centered over t' rows o' holes. Arrr! I wrapped one end t' Keelhaul®©™ shock cord around t' top o' t' BT-60 and glued it thar where t' two parts meet. Arrr! Begad! A loop was tied in t' Keelhaul®©™ a couple o' inches above t' baffle and one end o' t' elastic that came with t' kit be tied off there. Avast! T' other ends o' both t' elastic and t' Keelhaul®©™ will be tied t' t' nose cone.

A set o' fin slots was cut in t' body tube t' width o' t' fins. Arrr! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! T' motor tube was then glued into t' bottom o' t' rocket, t' joiner rin' added t' that, shiver me timbers, me bucko, arrr, and t' top part o' t' baffle was glued in and oriented such that t' rows o' holes in t' stuffer tube are centered betwixt t' rows o' t' BT-60. Well, blow me down! Blimey! After all that dried t' top part o' t' airframe was glued t' t' joiner. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! I had a bit o' trouble with t' two halves nay matchin' perfectly at t' joint. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! T' top half is a tiny bit larger in circumference than t' lower half producin' a sort o' hump in one spot. I spent a good deal o' time workin' on this t' minimize t' potential hump back appearance it might cause. Finally, me bucko, t' fins were glued in. Ahoy! Blimey! I used yellow glue for everythin' on this kit, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, except for t' fin fillets wherein I used epoxy. Begad! Blimey! Epoxy produces perfectly smooth fillets but it adds a lot o' weight so it's important t' avoid gettin' carried away.

Rating: 4 This was an easy but fun t' build kit.

Finishing
Finishin' wasn't difficult; I started by sandin' t' mold lines out o' t' nose. Ya scallywag! Next t' spiral groove in t' body tube and t' tube joint line was filled with Elmer's Fill 'n' Finish Wood Filler and sanded. Arrr! T' spiral sometimes takes two layers o' filler in places and I already mentioned t' problems with t' joint. Ahoy! T' whole thin' be lightly sanded and wiped clean before bein' sprayed with a coat o' Rustoleum white primer. T' fingerprints and other minor blemishes could now be seen and were sanded away or filled as needed. Begad! T' whole thin' be then sanded with 400grit paper until all t' parts could just be seen through t' primer. Begad! After bein' wiped clean carefully, me bucko, shiver me timbers, a second coat o' primer be sprayed on and when dry lightly sanded again. Well, blow me down! T' base finish coat was applied and a nice smooth finish be produced. T' rocket stood around for a week or two and then be masked off for a highlight coat. Begad! T' standard color scheme was used, me hearties, matey, except I masked off t' stripes rather than usin' t' stripe decal supplied. Aye aye! Blimey! I did this for two reasons, me bucko, me hearties, matey, t' first was that t' paint may nay match precisely, me hearties, and also I wanted t' rocket t' match its sister Super Ranger. Avast! T' red highlight coat was then sprayed on in two light coats. Begad! Well, blow me down! T' mask was removed as soon as t' paint be dry. Blimey! Unfortunately, me maskin' skills are nay t' greatest and t' edges aren't too sharp. Avast! Arrr! T' name decal was then added. Begad! I've always really disliked t' self-adhesive decals. Blimey! Begad! I've never been particularly good at gettin' them on without a bunch o' fingerprints, and after they are on they are thick and t' edges can be clearly seen. I was pleasantly surprised with these, me bucko, t' substrate is very thin, me hearties, me hearties, and I somehow managed t' get it on straight and I didn't have any real trouble with gettin' bubbles under it or anything.

Overall, arrr, it came out OK. Well, blow me down! It looks great if you are a couple o' feet away, but if you get close you can see t' trouble I had with t' maskin' tape.

Rating: 3 An easy model t' finish - t' decals are OK, arrr, me masks didn't produce a nice crisp edge.

Flight
T' finished weight is in t' 9oz neighborhood. Begad! Ahoy! T' motor listed for this rocket is a D12-3. Begad! That's a good one, me bucko, just be sure t' use a spacer above it before flyin' if you make mods t' t' motor mount. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Add t' that list t' E9-4 or 6, also t' D15-4, ya bilge rat, E18-4, E28-7, me hearties, F12-5, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, F24-7, and F39-6 reloads (again usin' t' spacer). Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! It will be a little slow off t' rod on t' D12 and F12 so you may wish t' use a longer rod. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! It should be a kick on t' new AT F21 when it becomes available.

It was flown t' first time at t' club polar bear launch on January 12, me hearties, 2002. Ahoy! T' flight was OK, despite high winds. Avast, me proud beauty! T' motor was a D12-3 and it left t' rod with an impressive amount o' speed and smoke. Begad! Aye aye! It did weathervane some, me bucko, and ejection was just after apogee with t' nose cone down. Avast, me proud beauty! Because o' t' wind, me bucko, I used an 18" 'chute rather than t' supplied 24" one. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! I misjudged t' angle o' t' wind and it drifted over t' hard top parkin' lot. Blimey! Ahoy! With a smallish 'chute t' rate o' fall was pretty fast and it hit hard. Avast! Avast! One o' t' fins shattered along t' grain and it lost a half inch square chip out o' t' bottom, shiver me timbers, but t' fin did nay break off. Ahoy! Blimey! T' wind also dragged it across t' lot so it has a fair amount o' hanger rash under t' nose cone. Avast! T' fin was easily repaired by runnin' CA down t' cracks and gluin' in a plug t' replace t' missin' chip. Blimey! After sandin' and touchin' up t' paint one can hardly tell.

Overall
This was a very fun rocket t' build and performs much like its little sister. Well, blow me down! It would be perfectly fine built stock. My additions simply make a good rocket that much better. Ahoy! Arrr! A good bang for t' buck.

Rating: 4

Brief:
Rebuildin' a Super Bertha.

Forward:
Most o' me rockets are made with longevity in mind, me hearties, matey, t' t' point o' makin' even t' shock cord easily replaceable. T' relatively new Super Big Bertha seemed t' be experiencin' deployment problems. After two embarrassments in a row it be time t' investigate. Shinin' a light down t' motor tube revealed quite a mess. T' motor tube itself was all twisted, apparently durin' construction, shiver me timbers, and be badly burned. Avast, me proud beauty! There was a red ejection charge cap from t' last Aerotech reload used in it still knockin' around up in thar and trapped past an obstruction.

So it’s obvious that it will never fly again, and nay wantin' t' waste fins and nose cone a rebuild was undertaken (undertaker, please drive slow).. Ya scallywag! Since t' motor mount is sort o' t' core o' t' model, arrr, and since it is locked in with t' fins, shiver me timbers, and also since it is integral t' t' baffle, ya bilge rat, it would be nearly impossible t' get it out o' t' airframe and replace it with another. Begad! Also, arrr, t' top section o' t' airframe is severely damaged anyway. Well, arrr, blow me down! So a complete overhaul be t' best and worst I can do. Ya scallywag! T' first order o' business was t' untie t' shock-cord from both t' nose cone and at t' mount end (the replaceable Keelhaul®©™cord be anchored at t' motor mount). Aye aye! Now t' airframe was cut away t' reveal t' badly twisted and charred motor tube. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! Aha! T' motor tube be damaged durin' construction; it had probably seized when bein' inserted and be damaged by too much force. Avast! OK, matey, now that we have that out o' t' way, t' fins were removed from t' tattered remains o' t' motor tube. Avast, me proud beauty! So now I have a nose cone, me hearties, me hearties, shock-cord, and a set o' basswood fins. So I need t' add some centerin' rings, a motor tube, an airframe tube, and launch lugs! T' airframe came from Totally Tubular as did t' motor tube. Ahoy! Begad! Since I’m rebuilding, I might as well make some “improvements.” How about a 29mm mount so it can be flown with Econojets and some reloads? Sounds good! Rail buttons sound like a good idea, me bucko, me bucko, too.

Construction:
Centerin' rings were cut from some 1/8-inch birch aircraft ply from t' local hobby shop usin' a fly cutter and t' drill press. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I wanted t' add a baffle so I cut four rings; one o' which had six 1/4-inch holes spaced evenly around t' center hole. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' rough edges were sanded and test fit with t' tubing. T' glue and remnants o' t' tubin' still clingin' t' t' fins sanded off until they were more or less smooth. Arrr! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' rail buttons were already on hand, havin' purchased extras from Magnum with me last order. I also just happened t' have an Aero-Pack retainer.

T' centerin' rings were epoxied t' t' motor tube, shiver me timbers, arrr, with t' many-holed one at t' very top, and t' others spaced properly t' match t' fin tabs. Begad! Eight 1/4-inch holes were cut betwixt t' top two rings t' form a baffle. Next, a hard wood plug — one-inch long and 1 1/8-inches in diameter — drilled and fitted with an eye-bolt and matchin' nylon insert nut be epoxied into t' top. Finally, t' aft part o' t' motor tube be roughed up with coarse sandpaper and t' motor retainer fixed in place usin' t' recommended JB Weld.

T' new body tube be measured and cut t' size, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, then cut again at t' 11-inch line. T' motor tube be test fit into t' airframe with a coupler t' verify t' size. Blimey! T' new version will eject at t' center t' form a (hopefully) zipperless design. Well, blow me down! T' lower half be marked up for fins, and t' slots were cut. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! T' parts were again test fit, and findin' them satisfactory t' motor tube and coupler were epoxied into t' lower airframe. T' fins followed in pairs: t' opposin' fins were epoxied at t' same time and a straight edge placed across t' pair ensured they were square with t' airframe (assumin' me slot cuttin' is done well.) Fin fillets followed, me hearties, matey, and I noted that t' airframe tube grabbed one o' t' fins a little and was indented at t' root edge. Ya scallywag! Nuts! Wish I’d seen that while t' epoxy be still wet! Oh well, it turns out that it isn’t too noticeable once t' fillets cured. Well, blow me down! T' rail buttons were placed carefully such that t' screw is driven into t' wood rings. Begad! T' holes were carefully predrilled. Begad! I also opted t' add a set o' 1/4" lugs since a rail isn’t always readily available.

I had some problems with t' coupler. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! It was truly snug on t' upper section which would cause deployment problems later. It was also pretty “fuzzy”. Arrr! T' correct this, arrr, I coated t' whole thin' down t' t' lower airframe with thin CA. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Blimey! It was sanded as soon as t' CA cured until smooth. Begad! Well, blow me down! Blimey! I continued workin' on it until t' upper section fit snuggly, but nay tightly and would slide smoothly. T' coupler is now very hard and smooth.

Finishing:
Several layers o' Rustoleum white primer was laid on and allowed t' cure for a couple o' days. Ahoy! That was then sanded heavily. T' blemishes that were revealed were filled and another layer o' primer was put on. Begad! That was sanded with 400 grit paper and t' dust tacked off. Arrr! A layer o' Rustoleum Satin White was added and allowed t' cure for several days. T' highlight be then taped off with blue maskin' tape and sprayed. Avast! Ya scallywag! I must have been standin' on me head when I masked off t' rings, since t' pattern is upside down! A logo was created usin' t' computer, me hearties, cut into maskin' tape by hand, arrr, then transferred t' t' model and sprayed usin' Rustoleum Flat Black. Arrr! Since this “new” model is sportin' a 29mm mount I decided t' call it Magnum Big Bertha; that’s reflected in t' new logo. Begad! A gloss coat o' clear was planned, but never done.

Flying:
T' weight is kind o' hefty: 12oz. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! T' original version was about 9oz. Avast! T' shock cord is arranged such that t' ’chute will be pulled out by t' shock cord — it’s very near t' eye-bolt on t' lower end. Aye aye! Arrr! T' cord itself is stuffed into t' upper airframe followed by t' ’chute t' ensure that it gets yanked out.

T' first flight be with an Estes D12-3 usin' an Estes plastic ’chute.. Aye aye! I figured it wouldn’t be too spectacular o' a flight since t' maximum liftin' weight o' t' D12-3 is 13oz. Well, blow me down! Blimey! It’s actually a tad over. T' me surprise, me bucko, it was an excellent flight and went a good deal higher than I expected. Avast! Cool!

It was flown again at t' club launch usin' an E28-4 reload and a hemispherical nylon ’chute (hand made by me young lovely). A very nice flight indeed, but t' shock cord roughed up t' edge o' t' upper section. Blimey! Avast! This was smoothed out, shiver me timbers, and t' inside o' t' tube coated with thin CA for about an inch or so. Begad! That was sanded shortly after it stopped smokin' until smooth and until it fit on t' coupler smoothly.

My nephew and I flew it at LDRS XXII in Argonia on an F22-5 reload. Begad! Avast! It was a bit slow off t' rail and arced into t' wind a bit. Arrr! T' delay could have been shorter, ya bilge rat, but it came out OK. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! More motor, be t' cry! We had plans t' slap an F20 in it, me hearties, me bucko, but were so busy with all o' t' things t' be seen at LDRS that we simply didn’t get t' it.

When t' wind is cooperatin' we’ll give an F20-7 or an F23-7 a whirl. It should fly well on F40-7 reloads, arrr, and 24mm F21-6 Econojets, shiver me timbers, too, nay t' mention a variety o' G’s.

This is a pretty fun model t' fly. Well, blow me down! It’s good for relatively low power motors, shiver me timbers, but can accommodate some mid-power motors, matey, too. Ya scallywag! It could handle H motors, too, ’cept it would probably never be seen again!