Scratch Snap Dragon Original Design / Scratch Built
Scratch - Snap Dragon {Scratch}
Contributed by Jimmy Yawn
| Manufacturer: | Scratch |
Jimmy gave permission t' reproduce his Snap Dragon webpages on EMRR. Aye aye! Blimey! Thank you, Jimmy.
Snap Dragon
Scratch-Built Model Rocket
Part 1: Intro and Overview
It delights me that one can buy such a vast array o' rocket parts nowdays. Blimey! Ahoy! So many suppliers, me bucko, matey, so much good stuff, so little time. Ahoy! Nose cones, G10, me hearties, phenolic tube that fits standard motors....
And I've learned a lot from buyin' kits and buildin' them. Like how t' put an airframe together. Ya scallywag! How t' design it so that it is stable. Blimey! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! How t' finish paper and balsa so it looks like polished metal.... Every kit has somethin' new to teach me. Begad!
But I have a persistent character flaw that compels me t' do everythin' myself, and then some. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! Good thing. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! My personality is o' t' type that deals with emergencies well. Blimey! So well, in fact, shiver me timbers, that I have developed habits that tend to create them. Aye aye! Unfortunately, that's nay a joke. Blimey! Avast! Procrastination, me bucko, arrr, for instance. It's crude and common, but remains a very effective technique for creatin' emergencies. Blimey! I use it a lot. Ya scallywag! No amateurcrastination forme, I am a pro!
For instance. Well, blow me down! Begad! Back in October I had scheduled a session o' Rocket Science 101 through Community Education. Ahoy! A few days before t' class, me hearties, I went t' t' storage room and finound me box o' Estes Alpha kits. Begad! It was empty. Blimey! Ahoy! I should have ordered another box o' them from Dennis back when I signed t' contract t' teach. Arrr! Ya scallywag! Oh, me hearties, well. I can always go buy them at retail. Begad! What's loot for, me hearties, anyway?
Two days later I went t' Mall Wart and and wound me way t' t' rocket department t' find t' precious Alphas. They had some boxed almost-ready-to-fly kits, shiver me timbers, complete with launch controller and stand, arrr, but when I looked at t' wall where t' not-nearly-ready-to-fly kits had been, thar was other, me bucko, non-rocket stuff. Begad! Blimey! T' kits were gone! Blimey! No Alpha kits, nor anythin' like them on display.
Nay t' panic! (well, maybe a little panic.) I can do this. Avast, me proud beauty! There is a way. Blimey! Blimey! Over t' years I have made a number of model-rocket-like airframes from stuff lyin' around. I had been thinkin' o' consolidatin' t' better bits into a standard model, and here is an opportunity with a pitchfork. Blimey!
These pages are a tribute t' t' students o' that class, arrr, shiver me timbers, who provided me t' motivation t' develop this model, ya bilge rat, a chance t' observe real people buildin' them, and t' test-fly a number o' them with commercial rocket motors. Ahoy! It is a documentary o' some things I learned from makin' these "kits," and even more I gained from t' participants themselves. Arrr! Thanks guys!
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Now t' rocket has a name! Blimey! Ken, o' Delanco NJ made several o' these rockets usin' colored posterboard for t' body tubes. Well, blow me down! His kids chose the colors, and his daughter Kristen gave them a clever and charmin' name. Blimey! So with her kind permission, I hereby christen this rocket model t' "Snap Dragon." Thanks, Kristen! |
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Procedure
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Body Tubes Made from posterboard and spray glue, they are quick, ya bilge rat, cheap, easy, me bucko, ya bilge rat, matey, and sturdy. Can be made lighter, at the expense o' some sturdiness, or heavier, shiver me timbers, for greater strength. Blimey! Avast! This technique is adaptable t' many other rocketry uses, ya bilge rat, me bucko, such as inhibitor tubes, ya bilge rat, case liners, and small motor casings. |
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Nose cone Sure, arrr, it's nice t' have a wood lathe. But you don't really need one t' get started. Ya scallywag! Begad! These cones can be "turned" with agile fingers from a 3x5 card, me bucko, and are reinforced with epoxy. For what they lack in aerodynamics, they make up in simplicity and strength. |
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Fins I use a simple, functional design, subject t' aesthetic and perhaps aerodynamic improvement. Blimey! Includes making and installin' t' launch lugs. |
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Body Covers An easy way t' create a fancy "paint job" for your rocket. |
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Finalizing Thrust ring, arrr, shock cord mount, arrr, recovery streamer, me bucko, matey, arrr, motor retention, ya bilge rat, matey, matey, and launch video. |
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Rocket Science 101 Photos o' t' October class launch, me hearties, shiver me timbers, where this model was tested a number o' times. Begad! Avast! Everyone in t' class assembled at least one rocket, ya bilge rat, some made more than one. Ahoy! On launch day, they were flown usin' Estes motors. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! Except for some ejection failures, they all performed well and proved sturdy enough t' survive a "lawn dart" recovery t' fly again. Blimey! I believe that me new motor retention system will solve t' ejection problem, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, we shall see.... Blimey! |
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Gallery Here's one by Geoffrey Andrews which he has named Moonstone. Ya scallywag! I like that name - it matches t' colors well. Begad! Aye aye! The tube is carbon fiber, arrr, both lighter and stronger than t' paper tubes I am using. This one should really fly. Thanks Geoffrey! |
Part 2: Airframe Body Tube
Made from posterboard and spray glue
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Tubes are made from posterboard, sprayed with glue, and rolled around an appropriately-sized dowel which has been covered with a relatively non-stick material. Arrr! Inside diameter is a little over 3/4 inch, matey, outside diameter just under 1 inch. Ya scallywag! Length is 11 inches, weight is 25 grams. Well, blow me down! It took about 5 minutes t' make these four tubes, arrr, at a total cost o' about 50 cents. |
Materials:
There are three essential materials, posterboard, double-stick adhesive tape, me bucko, and 3M Super 77 spray glue. Aye aye!
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Primary material: posterboard. Ahoy! This kind is easily available here. Arrr! Blimey! I can buy it at t' supermarket for $0.59 per sheet, matey, me hearties, or at t' office supply store in packs o' 10 sheets for about $4.00. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Each sheet is 22 inches wide by 28 inches long. Measured with a micrometer, it is 0.012 inch in thickness. Begad! Avast! One sheet will make four body tubes. Arrr! I have found many uses for this stuff lately, inhibitor tubes, case liner tubes, motor casings, epoxy mixings..... Alternative: One can use plain copy paper t' make tubes like these. It would take 4 or 5 sheets o' copy paper t' make one o' these tubes. When made with Titebond glue, these are very strong, although nay always very straight. |
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3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. Ahoy! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Guess you could have read that from t' can. This is a medium-weight spray glue which works very well with paper and light wood adhesion. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! It costs about $7.00 per can, and is available at most hardware stores here. Begad! Advantages:
Alternatives: I have used white glue and water-based wood glues like Titebond for years in makin' such tubes. Well, blow me down! Arrr! I still use Titebond for motor casings, me hearties, me hearties, as it makes for a stronger tube. 3M General Purpose 45 spray adhesive works OK. Well, blow me down! It's nay quite as tacky as 77 so is a little more difficult t' use for nose cones. Ya scallywag! Well, me bucko, blow me down! 3M High Tack 76 is a much thicker, heavier glue that shoots out o' t' can in stringy blobs. Avast, me proud beauty! It might be good for gluin' plastic laminate onto countertops, me hearties, but it is nay suitable for this purpose. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! Other spray adhesives may work for this project, but these are t' ones I have tested. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! |
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Double-stick tape is sticky on both sides. Begad! One o' its more common uses is for mountin' photographs in albums. Avast! How is it useful here? Well, Super 77 is a contact cement. It adheres immediately. If you spray any part o' the posterboard that will contact t' rollin' dowel, it will glue t' t' dowel and won't slip off without a struggle. Ahoy! So the first turn o' t' roll is secured with tape instead, ya bilge rat, me hearties, matey, then t' remainin' posterboard is sprayed with glue and rolled up. Aye aye! Alternative: You can mask one side o' t' sheet and spray only t' part that needs t' be glued. Well, blow me down! This might actually be t' better technique, see below. |
By t' way... this tube-makin' technique is good for casting/inhibitor tubes as well. I used it in makin' grains for t' Big Sugar launches recently, and in t' tidy tubes for me 38mm loads. Begad!
Doin' it
A few tools are needed, matey, matey, a ruler t' measure, scissors or sharp knife t' cut, matey, and three wooden dowels. A cork-backed steel ruler is really nice, shiver me timbers, as it can be used as a straightedge for cutting, and it does nay slip as easily as most rulers. Begad! Begad!
T' dowels should be a foot t' 14 inches long, shiver me timbers, round, straight, shiver me timbers, and smooth. Blimey! If they are rough, sand them smooth. Blimey!
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Dowel sizes are: 3/4 inch diameter, ya bilge rat, for makin' t' body tubes themselves. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! 1/2 inch diameter, me bucko, for makin' couplin' tubes 1/4 inch diameter, for pre-rollin' t' posterboard T' two larger dowels should be covered with somethin' that makes them less attractive t' glue. Blimey! In t' photo, note that t' largest dowel is covered with Nashua 324 aluminum foil duct tape, ya bilge rat, me hearties, givin' it a metallic look. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' 1/2 inch dowel is covered with red plastic-wrap. Arrr! Ya scallywag! Both work OK. Well, blow me down! T' 1/4 inch dowel is nay covered with anything, arrr, arrr, it just looks that way. Begad! It is painted flourescent pink. I use these as stabilizin' sticks for crude motor tests, and I like t' be able t' find them. Arrr! They are hard t' look at, but easy t' see. |
No doubt other types o' round things can be used. Arrr! Avast! Blimey! I've rolled tubes like this on aluminum rods, shiver me timbers, arrr, steel rods, ya bilge rat, PVC pipe.... As long as it is fairly straight and t' right diameter, shiver me timbers, it should do. Arrr!
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A sheet o' posterboard is cut into four equal rectangles, each 11 inches wide by 14 inches long. Each rectangle, rolled t' long way, will make one body tube 11 inches long. |
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It will resist. Aye aye! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Persist. Avast! Blimey! Get it curved all t' way t' t' edge o' t' paper. A smoothly curved edge now will make a smooth, me hearties, easily-rolled tube, which will nay need t' be rubber-banded t' hold it together. Arrr! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Rubber bands make little ridges. Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! If you don't pre-roll, you will have trouble at both ends. Arrr! Blimey! At t' first end, thar will be difficulty getting the first roll tight on t' dowel, shiver me timbers, and t' tube will nay be size-conformal. Ahoy! Blimey! At t' finish, t' final edge will want to pull away from t' tube, arrr, and you will have t' rubber-band it or somethin' t' make it lay down. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Pre-rollin' pre-empts these predicaments. |
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Havin' done all that strenuous pre-rolling, me hearties, it is time t' unroll one o' t' ends and flatten it a bit. That is so we can put double-stick tape on it. Aye aye! |
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A strip o' double-stick tape is torn off just a little longer than t' width o' t' posterboard. Begad! It is stuck to the edge, me hearties, and t' ends trimmed t' t' edge o' t' posterboard. Avast, me proud beauty! |
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T' taped edge is curled over t' 3/4 inch dowel, tucked in evenly, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, and t' first roll made. Blimey! T' double-stick tape secures t' first turn o' t' tube, shiver me timbers, makin' t' spray-glue operation much simpler. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! Blimey! Note that t' far end o' t' posterboard is nay properly tucked. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! It was t' best I could do and still get a photograph. Rest assured that error was corrected before I actually did t' roll. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! |
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Remove t' dowel from t' tube t' keep it from gettin' glued. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! T' first turn is now secured with double-stick tape. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! It is protected from t' adhesive spray. I guess you could mask t' dowel with tape and nay have t' take it out. Avast, me proud beauty! But I haven't tried that yet. |
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Take t' paper t' a spot you don't like and spray it with glue. Blimey! It doesn't take much, matey, matey, but do strive t' get an even coating. Arrr! Begad! |
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Take it back t' t' flat rolling-board, re-insert t' dowel, me bucko, me hearties, and roll it up. |
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Be especially careful t' get t' finishin' edge o' t' posterboard stuck down evenly and firmly. Otherwise, me hearties, it will peel away and be ugly and non-aerodynamic. Begad! Ahoy! This be t' purpose o' pre-rollin' that edge, me bucko, me hearties, so that it lays down without a struggle and sticks t' t' tube.
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T' finished tube can be worked within a few minutes. Avast! Here I am holdin' it t' a fin-attachment guide, me bucko, which is used t' space out t' fins at t' right interval and t' get them on straight. Arrr! But we are gettin' a bit ahead here. |
Another tube we will need: Thrust rin' tube
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A smaller tube is made in t' same manner, me hearties, except this one is a strip 20 inches long and wrapped around a 1/2 inch dowel. Ahoy! 20 inches o' posterboard makes for a nice fit inside t' 3/4 inch tube. Aye aye! It slides in with just a little resistance, so it will glue in well. Blimey! This tube will be cut into short sections t' make t' motor thrust-ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Such close fits can also be used t' make extended airframes, either as couplin' tubes t' add another 3/4 inch ID tube, matey, or by itself t' make a reduced-diameter upper airframe. Begad! But beware! Long, me bucko, skinny airframes make ejection more difficult, and lawn-darts are common with this model already. |
Alternative gluin' method
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Just in case you don't have any double-stick tape lyin' around, or have a yen for doin' things t' old-fashioned way... You can mask t' side t' be rolled around t' mandrel. Avast! Begad! Just draw a line 2.375 inches (2-3/8ths) from one edge. Pre-roll it and mask it with something. |
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Here I am usin' a scrap o' posterboard and green maskin' tape. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Blimey! Spray t' remainder with Super 77, matey, remove the mask, me bucko, and roll it up! Blimey! Startin' with t' unglued end, ya bilge rat, o' course. Actually, now that I have tried it again I realize that this works very well. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Forget t' double stick tape. Arrr! Make that two essential materials. |
Part 3: Nose Cone
Made from a 3x5 card and 3 kinds o' glue.
At work, I occasionally find myself overcommitteed. Aye aye! Safety committee, me bucko, me hearties, Parkin' Appeals Committee, shiver me timbers, Trauma Response Team, me bucko, hirin' committees, arrr, staff meetings, student organization meetings, special events projects.... Begad! Well, blow me down! So t' avert death-by-boredom I carry a "meetin' survival kit" with me at all times. Arrr! It consists o' a few index cards, a small pair o' scissors, arrr, arrr, and a "stealth" bottle o' Elmer's glue. Begad! With these items I can practice makin' nose cones while pretendin' t' pay attention. Aye aye!
Even if you are nay subjected t' a lot o' meetings, it's a good idea t' practice spinnin' a few trial cones before gettin' serious. Ahoy!
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I start by makin' a mark in t' middle o' one long edge o' a 3x5 index card. Avast! This is where t' apex o' t' cone will be, and t' mark reminds me o' its location. T' get t' angle right, I make a mark on t' other edge 1 inch from t' side, arrr, and draw a line betwixt t' two. Arrr! |
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Sometimes words don't do justice, so here is a drawing. Arrr! Mark t' overlap line as shown. Mask t' card t' the left side o' t' line, me hearties, spray t' other side, and roll. Begad! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! This will make a nicely-proportioned cone for this airframe. |
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T' far edge is pre-rolled on t' 1/4 inch diameter dowel. This gives it a bias toward curving, me bucko, both on the inside and t' outside flaps. Avast! Begad! This will help make a smooth roll once t' glue is applied. Inside curl will help t' keep t' cone round, matey, as a straight flap will tend t' distort t' tube into an ovalish cross-section. Outside curl will help that flap lay flat upon gluing, rather than (un)curl up. |
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Top-left side is bent down t' make a partial fold as shown. This be t' start o' t' cone. Arrr! Aye aye! |
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T' cone is pre-rolled t' somethin' close t' its final form. Avast, me proud beauty! What's wrong with this picture? It was taken before I pre-rolled t' edge. Well, blow me down! Begad! Blimey! Note that t' final flap wants to fly. Begad! Blimey! It must be convinced t' lay flat, arrr, that's why t' pre-rollin' is done. Ya scallywag! Begad! Blimey! |
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Havin' done me pre-rollin' duties, I may proceed. Another card is used t' mask t' first section o' t' nose cone card. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Maskin' is nay absolutely necessary, shiver me timbers, one could just spray t' whole card. I did that on t' first few, but Super 77 is sticky stuff, me hearties, and rather annoyin' t' have on one's fingers. Blimey! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Makes it hard t' let things go. |
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T' cone is rolled again, matey, this time with t' glue. Arrr! Blimey! Since t' final flap has been pre-rolled, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, it lays flat o' its own accord. Be sure t' check t' inside and make sure t' inner flap is pressed firmly against t' inside o' t' cone. |
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T' cone will be mated t' a body tube. Begad! T' give it a better gluin' surface, I sand t' end o' t' tube at an angle which will match t' taper o' t' nose cone, more or less. Blimey! (Hey! a thought.... Arrr! cut t' body tube edge at an angle so that it rolls "stair steps up the ziggurat" with an angle that matches t' cone... Aye aye! Arrr! I haven't yet tried this, me hearties, but will!) |
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Here is that taper I mentioned. Aye aye! It should provide a larger gluin' surface, matey, matin' with t' paper cone better than t' original sharp shoulder would, right? Posterboard does nay sand cleanly, shiver me timbers, but that's OK. Blimey! T' fuzzy stuff is o' no consequence, it will be removed later. Begad! |
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Remember that idea o' cuttin' t' posterboard at an angle? Well I did it, and here be t' ziggurat. Arrr!  |
After sandin' one t' t' point that it fit "right," I measured t' depth o' angled t' edge and found it t' be 1/4 inch. Begad! T' board is cut so that one end is 1/4 inch wider than t' other. It is 11-1/8th inch wide on t' starting end, ya bilge rat, 10-7/8ths inch wide on t' far end. Aye aye! Aye aye! |
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Less sandin' is needed, and t' fit is better. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! I'll keep this idea! |
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T' dunce cap fits nicely on t' tube, matey, and stays put just from friction. Avast! Begad! Here I am markin' t' spot on t' tube where this part o' t' cone comes.... |
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Markin' t' spot where t' body tube will reach. Well, blow me down! I will trim t' cone back just a little short o' that mark. |
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Cone is trimmed t' within 1/4 inch o' t' mark. Better a little too long than too short. It's a lot easier to take more off than t' add it back later. |
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A generous glob o' white glue is applied t' t' end o' t' body tube, me hearties, me hearties, shiver me timbers, and smeared evenly. OK, now don't get upset that we have changed body tubes here. Avast! This is show biz, and these photos were made durin' several different "shoots." My bad for nay usin' a plain white tube every time, matey, shiver me timbers, t' save that much distraction and confusion. I'll tell you all about t' t' pretty tube later. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! |
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Moment o' truth. T' cone is pressed onto t' tube. Arrr! Is is straight? Must find out quickly! |
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Apologies for t' bad photo, me bucko, but this shot is kinda hard t' do. Begad! Sightin' down t' length o' t' tube, me hearties, I noted that t' center o' t' point (bright dot) was nay perfectly centered. Arrr! So I adjusted it a bit. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Get that dot exactly in t' middle! |
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Second test for straightness: While t' glue is still soft, I hold t' body tube loosely in me right hand and spin t' assembly from t' cone tip. Arrr! Notice if it wobbles, shiver me timbers, and how much. Well, blow me down! Adjust until thar be no perceptible wobble, at which point t' cone is straight. Whew! |
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Here is perhaps a better way t' get t' nose straight, ya bilge rat, and doesn't require quite t' motor coordination o' the previous method. Lay t' tube on a flat surface with t' nose cone overhangin' t' edge, get down thar with it, me bucko, me hearties, and roll the tube. Aye aye! If t' nose cone is nay centered, me bucko, t' tip will appear t' bob up and down. Avast! Begad! Nudge it a little towards t' middle. Ya scallywag! Roll it until t' tip points down as far as it will, me hearties, and move it up a bit. Roll it again. Avast! Straighten it again. When t' tip rolls in a straight line, me hearties, leave it alone. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! Let it dry. Here is a video o' me doin' this one. (1.3 meg .mpg file, 15 seconds o' video) |
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There is a bit o' overlap, shiver me timbers, as planned. Arrr! I must confess, I had already started sandin' when it occurred t' me to take this picture - note abrasion on t' left side. |
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Here is an alternative t' t' pre-trimming. You can glue t' whole cone on, shiver me timbers, big flange and all. Arrr! Blimey! Then take a very sharp knife, ya bilge rat, arrr, or a good serrated knife, me bucko, and trim off t' excess by slicin' along t' body tube. This is kinda crude, me bucko, me hearties, but it usually works OK. |
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T' shoulder is sanded with 150 grit or finer sandpaper t' remove what remains o' t' skirt and make it all even. Blimey! |
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More or less even, if a bit rough. Note that t' overlap has been sanded t' reduce its obtrusion. |
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T' magic o' wet-or-dry paper. Begad! Here I am usin' 400 grit t' smooth t' cone and its shoulder. Ahoy! Begad! This will remove the frass and make t' whole thin' pretty darned smooth. |
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But it is still porous. Ya scallywag! Avast! So I smear a layer o' Elmer's glue all over t' cone. Blimey! Well, arrr, blow me down! This will seal and harden the surface. Let that dry for 15 minutes, matey, and smear on another coat. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! That will make it smooth, shiver me timbers, glossy and much stronger. But nay strong enough. Begad! It needs t' third glue! We will get t' that shortly. |
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Now t' nose cone is stuck firmly onto t' end o' t' body tube. Begad! This might be OK for a pyrotechnic rocket that goes up and blows up, me hearties, ya bilge rat, me hearties, but that's nay what this is about. Ya scallywag! Proper recovery is required, and that means t' nose cone must come off t' eject a parachute or streamer. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! So we will separate t' cone from most o' t' tube. Begad! Remember t' silvery dowel? It's t' one used t' roll t' body tubes. I will use it here t' assist in cutting off t' nose cone. |
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T' dowel is inserted into t' body tube until it reaches t' nose cone. This will support t' far end o' the body tube while it is bein' cut. |
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A long, sharp knife is laid on t' body tube about 1/2 inch from t' base o' t' cone, me hearties, and rolled carefully back and forth t' make a groove. Begad! Ahoy! Once a groove is established, ya bilge rat, more pressure can be applied as t' knife is rolled, eventually cuttin' through t' body tube. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Click Here for a movie o' me doin' this with another tube (1.3 meg .mpg file, 15 seconds o' uninspirin' but perhaps informative video) |
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Finally, t' nose cone is set free. Note that t' overlappin' paper has been sanded down and filled with glue-coats until it is barely visible. |
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For now, it is just a thin, fragile paper cone. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Compromised in places by sanding, ya bilge rat, but still intact. We will make it strong with t' third glue, arrr, epoxy. Aye aye! A section o' 3/4 inch dowel is cut t' serve as a base. |
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Some 5-minute epoxy is mixed up, perhaps a teaspoon. Avast, me proud beauty! T' entire interior o' t' paper cone is coated with this glue. I make sure that it coats t' very tip o' t' cone t' seal its small opening, me hearties, and lingers in t' shoulder where the short section o' body tube meets t' 3x5 card cone. Arrr! Any glue left over is dumped in t' cone and spread around the perimeter, preparin' for t' next step: |
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Dowel is inserted in t' cone, with 3/4 inch protruding. Avast! T' picture is deceivin' - I coated t' end o' the dowel with epoxy before insertin' it, arrr, me hearties, t' make sure it is glued really well. |
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T' nose cone assembly is stood upright on its base while t' epoxy cures. Begad! Aye aye! This is so it will drip down, reinforcin' t' shoulder where t' cone meets t' tube and t' paper be t' thinnest. This may cause t' glue at t' tip t' drain down, openin' it up again. If that happens, arrr, give it another drop of epoxy after this first application has set. |
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T' new nose cone assembly should fit t' body tube nicely... Aye aye! that's where it came from! So even if t' cut is uneven, or t' tube is a bit out-of-round, you can rotate it back t' t' startin' point, ya bilge rat, match t' lines up, and everybody should be happy. Begad! Ya scallywag! |
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A screw-eye is added t' give t' shock cord somethin' t' hang onto. Arrr! Avast! This is actually a different cone - note the paper base. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! It has a 1/2 inch wooden dowel for a core. |
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You can argue with t' aesthetics. You can argue with t' aerodynamics. But this is definitely a cost-effective procedure... Aye aye! Begad! once you have bought t' three glues! |
Next: Finishing. You could do t' usual thin' with this kit - smear t' fins with wood filler, let it dry, sand them, apply several coats o' primer with a good sandin' between coats, then give it a couple o' coats o' color, some striping, me hearties, a finish coat, add a few decals and let it dry for a week. You could even paint pretty trees and blue sky on them.
Part 4: Fins
A strip o' modelin' hardwood is selected. Blimey! It is 1.5 inches wide by 3/32 inch thick. Avast! Ya scallywag! T' best wood is maple. Well, matey, blow me down! It is hard and strong. Next best might be basswood. Well, blow me down! Then perhaps poplar. Ya scallywag! If you can't get any o' these, matey, me hearties, balsa will do. It is easy t' work, but nay nearly as strong. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast!
One foot length is needed t' make four fins. Begad! You don't have t' use four fins, me bucko, three are enough for good stability. If you are usin' balsa, a spare fin is a good thin' t' have. Ahoy! Begad! And if you make three rockets, me bucko, you have enough leftover fins for a fourth! No extra charge.
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Mark t' strip at t' halfway point. It will be cut into into two 6-inch sections shortly. Ya scallywag! Mark a point one inch from each end, and one inch from t' centerline on t' opposite side as shown: |
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Connect t' one-inch points with diagonal lines. Arrr! These are t' cut lines. Avast! They are also t' "root edge" which will be glued t' t' rocket body tube. |
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One good thin' about balsa - it can be cut with a sharp knife. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! |
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So can this basswood, but it takes several heavy strokes. Blimey! Blimey! Hey! Blimey! Watch that knife! |
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Isn't thar a better term for what I am callin' t' "Adjacent Edge?" Please inform!
Fin Conformity
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As you can see, ya bilge rat, me hearties, t' fins are nay cut uniformly. Begad! And t' root edge is nay flat. Well, blow me down! That must be fixed, as t' edge must
mate well with t' body tube t' glue well, and it must be squared with t' flat so t' fin will stand up straight..
T' fix is a bit labor-intensive without power tools, but doable. Avast! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! I am t' proud owner o' a cheap little belt sander which does this in a jiffy. Arrr! But it can be done quite well with just a sheet or two o' sandpaper, ya bilge rat, a strong grip, and a few minutes o' reciprocal motion. |
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First, align t' top edges and t' 90-degree adjacent sides as closely as possible. Avast! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! This will minimize t' amount of sandin' you have t' do. Pinch them together and hold them tightly so that they do nay shift in relation t' each other. If you have some small clamps, me hearties, shiver me timbers, this might be a good time t' use them. Arrr! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! |
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Lay a piece o' fine sandpaper sandpaper on a flat surface, me hearties, and rub t' root edge o' t' fin group on it until they
are all flat and even. Aye aye! Balsa won't take long. Blimey! Well, blow me down! Hardwood might take a few minutes. I'm usin' 150-grit here, shiver me timbers, me hearties, but other sizes will work too. If t' fins slip out o' line, arrr, take a moment t' get t' top edges lined up again before sandin' any more. |
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Here they are all sanded pretty much flush on t' root edge. Might want t' check and make sure they haven't slipped, though.... |
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Do t' same thin' for t' trailin' edges, and t' adjacent edges connectin' t' trailin' edges and t' root edges. |
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Havin' been sanded as a unit, matey, they should all now be pretty much t' same size and shape. Aye aye! Now work on one at a time. Begad! Use t' sandpaper t' round all t' edges except t' root edge o' each fin. Here I simply rub t' fin against t' sandpaper layin' on t' counter, ya bilge rat, me bucko, arrr, and change t' angle t' make a rounded edge. Blimey! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! Blimey! Be sure t' leave t' root edge flat. Well, blow me down! Do nay round it. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! T' root edge needs t' stay flat t' maximize contact surface with t' body tube when it is glued. Blimey! |
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If you wish, me bucko, t' trailin' edge may be tapered t' a thin edge. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! This will make for slightly better aerodynamics. Blimey!
Draw it at an angle on t' sandpaper held on flat surface. |
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I found this steel angle iron at Home Depot, cost was only a dollar or so for 3 feet. Well, blow me down! I can't resist any thin' that is both cheap and sturdy, so grabbed one. Blimey! Bad idea. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! It had a garbled bar-code tag. Homer didn't wait around long enough for me t' tell him where it came from, shiver me timbers, and apparently had t' search t' whole store. I waited about 20 minutes while he tried t' find it. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! |
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But it was worth it. Aye aye! This bar is just about t' right size for spacin' four fins around this body tube. Blimey! Begad! So I cut it into 1-foot sections. Ahoy! Rubber-banded t' t' body tube, me bucko, it makes for accurate fin alignment, much better than eyeballing it, me hearties, or usin' a drawn line. |
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Now that t' aligner is in place, me bucko, I can glue a fin. A thin bead o' Elmer's is applied t' t' fin root. Blimey! Actually, it was a thick bead, ya bilge rat, but a finger removes most o' it and spreads t' rest evenly. |
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T' iron channel is used both for spacin' and for fin alignment. Blimey! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Thus t' only thin' I need t' worry about is
for/aft fin placement, me hearties, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, and a pencil mark where t' tip o' t' fin should go makes that pretty easy. Blimey! Blimey! Sometimes I apply candle wax t' t' iron t' keep glue from stickin' t' it. Ahoy! It helps. |
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Hey, me bucko, arrr, look! I have two o' these channels! Isn't that cool. Avast, me proud beauty! As it turns out, shiver me timbers, t' iron channel is much better for alignment than for placement. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Since t' thickness o' t' fins varies somewhat and so does t' diameter o' t' body tube, a distance that is right for one airframe will be wrong for another. Begad! In this case, it's OK, it will fly stably. I could even call it an intentional "X-Fin" design. But it isn't. Ahoy! |
This is a very simple fin design. Ya scallywag! Avast! It is elegant in that it is very easy t' cut and shape, does nay waste material, me bucko, and creates a very stable airframe. Ahoy! Avast! It is also well adapted t' t' "paint job cheat" technique I will describe shortly.
But other designs are certainly possible with this method. Please let me know if you come up with any really good ones!
Launch Lug. Also made from scratch.
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Scratch paper, ya bilge rat, that is. Begad! I cut a piece o' plain copy paper 2 inches wide, 3 inches long, and pre-roll it on a short section o' 1/8 inch brass rod. Arrr! Avast! |
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A dollop o' Elmer's is spread by finger.... |
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...and t' paper rolled around t' rod, me hearties, loosely. No doubt thar be a precise way t' do it, me hearties, shiver me timbers, but this happens to work just fine. |
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Once it has dried, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, me bucko, a long, me bucko, sharp knife is rolled over t' tube which is supported by t' brass rod, allowin' a
nice, me bucko, clean cut t' be made. Blimey! Two sections o' lug tube are cut, matey, each about 3/4 inch long. |
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T' first is glued adjacent t' a fin. Blimey! This gives it good reinforcement, as well as alignment. |
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| After t' first lug has set... Avast, me proud beauty! 30 minutes or so... t' second one can be glued on usin' a bamboo skewer t' make sure they are aligned. Ahoy! Sometimes I use a rubber-band t' hold t' skewer down while t' glue sets. Ya scallywag! In this case I just held it for a minute then gently withdrew t' skewer and didn't touch it for awhile. Avast! Elmer's sets fast on porous stuff, as long as you don't use too much. |
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Thanks t' Flint Hazpirat for suggestin' t' use o' drinkin' straws for t' launch lug. That would certainly save a little time. Avast! Here, matey, me hearties, such straws are usually made out o' plastic, so Elmer's is nay an appropriate glue. Ahoy! So far the hot-melt glue from me glue-gun has worked t' best, shiver me timbers, as Flint also suggested.. |
Next: Nose Cone! No lathe required.
Part 5: Body Tube Covers
"Paint job" and "decals" integral with t' body tube itself.
A Cheap Trick.
I went t' Maine a few years ago, shiver me timbers, me bucko, arrivin' in early October just in time for t' first light snow. Begad! Everywhere I looked it was like a postcard. Sigh. Well, blow me down!
Took along a cheap little 35mm camera. Aye aye! Spent over $100. for film. Avast! Then over $200. for processing. Aye aye! Whew! Makes me appreciate t' digital camera a lot more. Aye aye! Blimey! Many o' them were bad, most o' t' rest mediocre.
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But t' scenery was so good that even t' mediocre shots were appealing, and on top o' that, arrr, ya bilge rat, I accidentally got a
few good. Begad! Scanned t' best ones, shiver me timbers, and used one o' them for me desktop wallpaper at work. Blimey! Arrr! Someone installed a color laser printer and made t' mistake o' givin' me access. Begad! I had t' test it t' see how well it would do photos, and hey! How about this Maine picture? Nice shot o' some tall trees, lake, and mountains in t' background. Ya scallywag! I left it laying around, as is me habit. A few months later, I was scheduled t' give a presentation at conference on psychological type in education (www.capt.org) and wanted t' get folks t' laugh. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! I am willin' t' resort t' t' cheapest o' tricks t' get an audience on my side. |
What I wanted was a video o' a homemade rocket that didn't work. Avast! Dramatically so. Aye aye! Aye aye! So I rolled a few tubes, put crude fins and a nose cone on one o' them, and sprayed it with silver paint. Avast! Well, blow me down! Made a little batch o' propellant, arrr, arrr, wrapped a chunk o' it in aluminum foil with a firecracker at t' far end, me hearties, me hearties, and put it in t' "airframe" where the motor should be. I borrowed a camcorder, and videotaped t' "launch."
Durin' t' part about development o' identity in relation t' career aspirations, I mentioned that: "...when I be in high school, I told all me friends that I was goin' t' be a 'rocket scientist' when I grew up. Blimey! Blimey! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Blimey! If they had known that I would become a career counselor, I might nay have survived.
"Here is one o' me rockets.....
(Play video... Begad! rocket smokes for a few seconds, then explodes. Ahoy! Begad! Audience laughs, as hoped.)
"Well I guess it's good that I went into counseling. Avast! They say people go into helpin' professions because they need help...."
I rambled on and on, shiver me timbers, but nobody left until it was over. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Afterward, a member o' t' audience asked me: "Have you seen that movie about t' boys that made rockets.... Blimey! Blimey! forgot t' name, but it's pretty good." That was the first I'd heard o' October Sky. Arrr! And it started me back into rocketry again. Blimey! Avast! Blimey! So as much as I hate t' admit it, matey, guess I'm a BAR too.
Sprin' cleaning came t' me office, ya bilge rat, me bucko, and I found t' remainin' tubes and t' Maine photo in a heap on me desk. Hmmm. Well, blow me down! Avast! Highly distractable, especially when cleaning, me hearties, I wondered: What if I wrapped t' picture around a tube? Found a bottle o' Elmer's and did so. Blimey! Made a nicely decorated tube. I cut the picture into three strips, and rolled a section around a different tube. Stood up together, this made for a three-dimensional look, almost like real trees. Arrr! I envisioned makin' a lamp out o' them but never did. Arrr! O' course.
By now, I'm sure you know where this is heading. Begad! I could quit right here and you would figure it out. Or you would say "why bother" and go do somethin' else. But that won't stop me, nooooo! I spend most o' me time talkin' t' myself anyway, me hearties, so t' lack o' an audience will nay disuade me. In fact, me hearties, an audience that is nay thar is hardly disuasive at all. Begad!
Thus I continue.
After buildin' several airframes usin' posterboard tubes, I note that me fin spacin' leaves much t' be desired. Avast! Arrr! I have been usin' 1/2 inch angle iron and 1/2 x 3/8ths inch angle aluminum t' provide t' correct spacin' from one fin to the next. Ahoy! Aye aye! These angles are a great help in gettin' t' fins on straight, matey, but variations in t' body tube diameter, matey, and especially in t' fin thickness, make this spacin' incorrect much o' t' time. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' rockets fly OK, arrr, but they look kinda funny. Avast!
I recalled a little helper that came with t' Estes kits - a fin spacing/alignment guide. Ahoy! Blimey! It is printed on the instructions, just a rectangle with some straight lines in it. Arrr! You cut it out, me bucko, wrap it around t' body tube, and mark on t' tube where t' lines are. Avast, me proud beauty! This provides correct spacing, me bucko, and helps (somewhat) with alignment. Begad!
So perhaps I could make such guide for me body tubes? I measure a tube's diameter and figure its circumference, and divide by three. Well, blow me down! Begad! This gives me t' correct spacin' for three fins. Ahoy! I go t' t' computer, create an image file and draw three lines, me bucko, spaced 1/3rd circumference apart. Begad! Blimey! I can wrap this around t' tube, mark t' lines... Hey! I could just glue it on with that fancy spray glue and mount t' fins directly on it! I could even use t' whole length o' the sheet o' paper, it's gonna be wasted anyway. And it just happens t' be 11 inches long. Ya scallywag!
I can print a horizontal line t' show where t' fin tips should reach, shiver me timbers, t' help with fore/aft placement.
So I print out two such guides on one sheet, and cut one o' them off, me hearties, a strip wide enough t' go around t' tube and then some, shiver me timbers, sprayed it with glue, and wrapped it around a tube....
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It worked very nicely! Blimey! T' fins went on straight, matey, shiver me timbers, thanks t' t' angle-aluminum guide. Arrr! They were evenly spaced thanks t' t' longitudinal lines, me hearties, and fore/aft placement good enough that it would stand up on its own, me hearties, thanks t' the end-mark. |
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So I went kinda wild. And soon realized that it is really easy t' do a bad job o' this. Begad! Here are a few examples: |
Note that they are kinda dusky and drab looking. Well, blow me down! These are printed on plain paper. It occurs t' me that I have some expensive glossy photo paper here somewhere..... Blimey! Begad! (sound o' drawers opening, me bucko, cabinets rattling, things falling to t' floor) Hey! I found it! What luck. Avast! Avast!
 Click Here t' open t' Word version o' this graphic |
But if I am goin' t' use dollar-a-sheet paper, I want a better design. Ahoy! So I went online and found Kurt Schachner's
collection o' decal designs for historic Estes and Centuri models,
from which this star-n-bar insignia be obtained. Begad! Blimey! I used Word t' make t' gradient and t' fin covers. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! Yeah, ya bilge rat, why not cover t' fins too, ya bilge rat, save a lot o' sanding, painting, arrr, etc. Arrr! Besides, arrr, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, t' paper serves t' reinforce t' wood, ya bilge rat, so I can use 3/32 inch balsa and it might nay break right away. Here is a Word doc with 3 fin covers on it. Guess I should work up a design that gets 3 fins plus tube cover on one sheet. I have a variation in yellow and blue. |
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T' wrap should be about 3 inches wide. Avast! T' body tubes average about 0.9 inches, so t' circumference would be 2.82
inches. Divide that by 3 and you get 0.94 inches betwixt fins. Since t' paper thickness will add a bit, shiver me timbers, I am usin' a
fin spacin' o' 1 inch here, shiver me timbers, and it is about right. Ahoy! Avast! Fine tunin' may be helpful, me hearties, but this is good enough for a start.
Here I am sizin' up an ugly tube t' see if it can be recovered. Begad! Ahoy! Decided against it, thinkin' t' extra coating of paper might make t' new alignment lines incorrect. Well, blow me down! I made a new tube instead. |
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Sprayed t' wrap with Super 77 and rolled it on. Aye aye! Ahoy! This is easy! But I forgot something.... |
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There were a couple o' gaps in t' final edge. I had failed t' pre-roll t' edge. That be nay necessary with the
plain paper, but this photo paper is much thicker and stiffer. Avast! Elmer's didn't work, it just yawned wide open again. So I tried a little super-glue and guess what! It works really well. Arrr! |
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Note that I'm holdin' t' edge down with a thick plastic bag. Ya scallywag! Gettin' CA'd t' somethin' is funny when it happens to someone else.... Super glue doesn't seem t' stick t' polyethylene baggies at all. |
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So here is another wrapper. Ahoy! Begad! I'm doin' t' pre-roll thin' this time. Glued it on, arrr, and it works great. No loose edges. Well, blow me down! |
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Fin Covers
You might have noticed t' gaily-colored trapezoids on t' printout. Those are fin covers. Well, blow me down! Arrr! We need some fins to cover. Begad!
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Here I'm cuttin' fins from 3/32 inch thick balsa. T' strip is 3 inches wide, so I split it in half. Blimey! Thus each 6-inch section makes 4 fins. Aye aye! T' leadin' and trailin' edges o' these fins will be rounded or tapered with sandpaper, as illustrated on t' Fins page. |
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A colorful trapezoid is cut out, with a lot o' extra paper around t' edges. It is folded directly down t' middle
so that t' colored stripes are symmetrical and even on both sides. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! This is a test-fittin' t' make sure it goes in OK. Begad! It does. |
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Good way t' get stickyfingers. But when I set t' paper down, t' spray blows it over! Guess I could use a clothespin or something. If you want t' bond t' be extra strong, spray t' balsa with glue too. Aye aye! Avast! Fin is inserted into glued paper... |
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...folded in a Ziploc bag, and pressed firmly. Ya scallywag! T' bag keeps me sticky fingers from adherin' t' t' paper. Arrr! Ya scallywag! Don't
want t' leave any fingerprints, do we? This procedure creates a fin packet, me bucko, a colorful fold o' heavy, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, glossy, pretty paper with a balsa fin somewhere inside it. Begad! |
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By pressin' at t' edges with a fingernail, I find where t' balsa begins and lay a non-skid ruler along that line.
Sharp knife is used t' cut away t' excess paper. Avast, me proud beauty! I notice that it is so easy t' cut through t' balsa like this that I don't even notice when it happens. Ruined a fin that way, ya bilge rat, but it suggests another technique, ya bilge rat, t' glue paper to balsa, then cut it out. Well, blow me down! Begad! Blimey! |
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Root edge o' each fin is sanded t' remove excess paper and make t' edge flat and true again. T' remainin' paper
flares out a little. Blimey! Ahoy! I leave this frilly edge on believin' that t' tiny tendrils will make for a better glue joint. |
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T' aluminum bracket is rubber-banded t' t' body tube and aligned with one o' t' fin index markers. Ya scallywag! A dollop of Elmer's is spread along t' root edge, matey, me bucko, and t' fin pressed into place. After about 30 seconds, arrr, t' aluminum guide is moved t' one side so that t' fin does nay get stuck t' it. T' fin is allowed t' dry for a few minutes before adding the next. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! |
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Fallin' Fin Syndrome
When I first glued these fins t' t' body tube, matey, they kept fallin' off! Apparently, me bucko, t' glossy photo paper does not absorb Elmer's Glue as readily as plain paper. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! I feared I would have t' find a different glue. But I left one sittin' for 15 minutes, came back and tried t' pull it off. Begad! It did nay come off easily, me bucko, it was stuck on pretty well. So I left it t' dry overnight, and t' resultin' bond was quite strong. Avast! So Elmer's is fine. One must take a little more care in t' beginning, shiver me timbers, me hearties, and have a little patience in t' middle for a good result at t' end. Aye aye! Begad!
Trailin' Edge Surprise
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Here is a bonus. Avast, me proud beauty! I hadn't planned on this and so did nay do it very well. Instead o' trimmin' t' paper right up t' t' balsa, I left 1/4 inch or so and presed t' edges together. It made a nicely feathered trailin' edge. I'll try t' do it better next time. Well, blow me down! |
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But compared t' t' first o' these I made with a very square end, t' paper taper is grand. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! T' edges can be trimmed with scissors so they are all even. |
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Here is that better job I promised. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! Note that t' fin itself is inside a coverin' o' heavy polyethylene (a Ziploc freezer bag) t' protect t' finish. Avast! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! |
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It worked! T' two on t' left were done with t' clamps, me hearties, t' one on t' right wasn't. It can be fixed with a touch
of super glue, shiver me timbers, but I prefer t' do a good job t' start with. Blimey! I like clamps. Avast! Clamps are good. |
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T' left model uses t' paper nose cone illustrated on that page. Begad! Ya scallywag! It looks kinda awkward. Arrr! It needs a paint job. Aye aye! T' red nose cone is one I turned on a wood lathe. Ya scallywag! |
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Top Coat
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This printed photo paper stays kind o' "sticky" for a long time. Begad! So after drying, I give it a couple of
coats o' clear "top coat" lacquer. Arrr! This makes it much less sticky and more water resistant. Well, blow me down! Blimey! I unserstand that thar are special fixative sprays for inkjet photo-paper. Perhaps I should get some. Ahoy! Blimey! But this Plasticoat lacquer works petty well. |
So far I have this one gaudy design. More a test o' concept than anything. Ahoy! How about some of you rocket artists designin' better ones and sendin' them t' me? I would be delighted t' post any that you submit, with your permission, o' course.
A good startin' point might be Ye Olde Rocket Shoppe which offers a nice collection o' decal designs from historic Estes and Centuri kits, me bucko, as well as plans for many olde and newe rocket designs. Avast!
Deepest thanks t' Kurt Schachner for collectin' these t' decal set from which I obtained the star-and-bar, shiver me timbers, and t' Scott Hansen for puttin' them on t' web.
Next: Finishing up!
Part 6: Finalizin'
Thrust Ring, Recovery Streamer, Motor Retention, Launch!
Thrust rin' and shock cord
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Remember that second tube I made for a thrust rin' way back when? It was 20 inches o' posterboard rolled on a 1/2
inch dowel. Well this isn't it. Avast! I changed me mind. T' reason is that we need a good way t' mount t' shock cord. T' way it was done in t' RS101 class may have contributed t' t' large number o' ejection failures. Begad! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! I think this method will work OK. Aye aye! Blimey! T' new tube is made from 14 inches o' posterboard just like t' airframe. But instead o' bein' rolled on a 3/4 inch dowel, it is rolled on a 1/2 inch rod. That makes it a loose fit in t' airframe tube, shiver me timbers, and that is a good thing. I cut off an inch, and tie one end o' an 18 inch length o' shock-cord elastic around it. |
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This is plain old underwear-type elastic, 1/4 inch wide. Begad! It is available from any fabric store, shiver me timbers, craft shop, me hearties, sewing
department o' a department store, matey, or I guess you could cut some from t' missus' undies, but I don't recommend it. Blimey! The
social repercussions could be dire. Blimey! After tyin' t' elastic, shiver me timbers, matey, t' tube is wrapped with another strip o' posterboard, just enough t' go around t' tube one time plus a little overlap. Blimey! Blimey! I used green posterboard for t' final wrap so you could see it. Arrr! Ahoy! It be sprayed with Super 77 before wrapping, and is secured with rubber bands while t' glue sets. Ahoy! |
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This should provide a smooth fit into t' airframe tube, a solid bulkhead against which t' motor will thrust, and
a secure mountin' for t' shock cord. Avast, me proud beauty! Too bad t' shock cord is so close t' t' motor - it might get burned a bit upon
ejection. Arrr! Oh well. T' shock cord elastic is run through t' body tube, and is danglin' out t' nose end o' the airframe. Arrr! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! In a moment, shiver me timbers, I will put a big glob o' Elmer's in t' airframe, and use a spent motor casin' t' push t' green thingy up t' t' right spot. Ahoy! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! |
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Did you catch that? I had t' move quickly, ya bilge rat, and did nay get a photo. But I did what I said, shiver me timbers, squirtin' a globular
rin' o' Elmer's around t' inside o' t' airframe tube at t' fin end. Avast! Then I inserted t' thrust rin' tube, matey, and used a spent Estes motor casin' t' push t' tube forward about three inches. This leaves t' nozzle o' t' Estes casing about 1/2 inch inside t' tube. Avast! That is good. That's where we want it. But nay for long. I find a stick, arrr, and push out the motor casin' before t' Elmer's has time t' glue it in permanently, and make me potential rocket into a non-flying shelf ornament. |
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T' thrust head has been pushed into place and t' glue is allowed t' set. Begad! Begad! Should be firm by now, so I'll launch it shortly. |
Nose cone and streamer attachment
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Nose cone is tied t' t' shock cord, matey, and a gaudy streamer added. Well, blow me down! My field is kinda small - models usin' parachutes sometimes don't come back. T' streamer is simply surveyor's ribbon. It's primary virtues are that it is cheap and highly visible. Avast! |
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Here is an error t' avoid: When insertin' t' nose cone, make sure t' free end o' t' shock cord does nay get
pinched betwixt t' nose cone and t' body tube. Ahoy! Avast! There were several ejection failures in me Rocket Science 101 class, me bucko, me hearties, and I think this is one o' t' reasons. Avast! Begad! Blimey! T' other is that we were usin' t' traditional method o' motor retention, wrappin' t' motor with maskin' tape until it be a tight fit. Ahoy! Avast! Nay tight enough in some cases, ya bilge rat, me bucko, so here is a better way:
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Positive Motor Retention
One o' t' problems with me original "kit" was motor ejection. When t' motor fired its ejection charge at apogee, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, it was often t' motor that was ejected, in spite o' massive wads o' maskin' tape tryin' t' keep it in. Ahoy! Aye aye! When the motor ejects, me bucko, t' nose cone often doesn't, arrr, resultin' in a lawn dart. We had quite a few o' those on t' RS101 launch, so here I am tryin' t' do better.
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Two small holes will be burned in t' airframe tubing, ya bilge rat, me bucko, me bucko, just past t' motor. A short section o' stiff wire will be
inserted, ya bilge rat, t' prevent t' motor from movin' backwards upon ejection. Blimey! After t' glue has had a few minutes t' dry, me bucko, I put t' casin' back in and measure t' depth from t' end o' t' airframe. Avast, me proud beauty! Usin' me rule o' thumbs t' mark t' depth on the outside o' t' airframe, me bucko, I will burn a hole here soon. Begad! |
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OK, matey, me hearties, so I'm nay really burnin' a hole in t' second photo. Mostly, ya bilge rat, I'm takin' a picture! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! This little tack loses heat very quickly, so if I'm distracted (which is likely!) it will cool down before I get around t' usin' it. Blimey! Blimey! But I did it again after puttin' down t' camera, and made a hole at t' spot indicated. Then I made another one on t' other side of t' closest fin. |
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Here's why. Blimey! I'm goin' t' use a piece o' this paper clip for motor retention. Avast, me proud beauty! |
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Spent casin' is removed and replaced it with a live Estes motor. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Paper clip is clipped, arrr, me hearties, and I am bendin' t' ends so it can't wiggle out. Ya scallywag! Since t' motor is recessed, it's a lot easier t' install t' ignitor before puttin' it in the airframe. Avast! |
Test Launch
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Here it is on t' launch pad, ready t' go. Ya scallywag! Click here t' see the launch (2 meg .wmv file, 27 seconds o' highly compressed video) Summary: Successful launch, matey, matey, good recovery. It will fly again. Begad! |
Other Tests
This model be pretty well tested in t' Rocket Science 101 class launch, where 10 o' these models were flown a total o' 30 times, usin' Estes A, ya bilge rat, me bucko, B, and C motors. All fights were stable. Blimey! Some did nay eject as planned, but survived t' lawn dart recovery with minimal damage. Arrr! Wooden nose cones were used - I had nay developed t' paper verison at that point. Ahoy! Blimey! It is doubtful that paper cones would have held up as well, unless perhaps they were filled with epoxy or some other solid substance. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down!
Please let me know what you think o' this project and t' site describin' it. Ya scallywag!
Praise and adulation are welcomed, matey, but suggestions and criticisms are equally valued.
And if you come up with any good "wrappers," please send them t' me!
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