Manufacturer: | Scratch |
Brief:
Twice Removed from Yesterday is a 4" diameter, ya bilge rat, 38mm rocket that
features two LOC plastic transitions. Arrr! Begad! Although these transitions largely define
its external looks, arrr, t' main thin' that is different about its construction (at
least in me fleet) be t' motor mount. Avast! T' motor mount includes a LOC baffle
and a homemade retainer made from a PVC fitting. Begad! Begad!
Construction:
This rocket is largely a conglomeration o' various LOC components from a
humongous parts bonanza that I won in one o' t' r.m.r. Begad! Descons.
These LOC components used included:
As you can see, most o' t' rocket was free. I also borrowed t' following from other existin' rockets in me fleet: a 54mm cone, a ¾" tubular nylon shock cord, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, and me Rocketman R7 chute.
What I bought for t' project is two eyebolts, shiver me timbers, a PVC fittin' (male and female parts), a small piece o' 38mm tubin' for t' future addition o' an altimeter in t' larger transition, and t' wood for t' fins (6 small sheets of 1/8" ply from Michael's).
I really wanted t' try t' baffle and t' PVC fittin' and somewhat threw the rocket together. I plan t' return t' nose cone t' t' original rocket and to reuse t' smaller transition on another project. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Thus, arrr, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, this rocket may only fly once in this configuration. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! I will most likely add a longer 3" tube and some sort o' 3" nose cone. Avast! But I digress...
T' components o' t' motor mount are laid out in the
accompanyin' photo. T' smaller parts on t' left comprise t' LOC baffle. Begad! The
rings and body o' t' retainer are dry fit at this point. Avast! Aye aye! T' 54mm rin' will
reside on t' end o' t' mount and will be epoxied t' t' main tube. Well, blow me down! The
retainers cap fits through t' 54mm hole, matey, but t' tabs on t' PVC body do
not. Well, blow me down! Well, arrr, blow me down! Thus, me bucko, this will provide a little insurance in case JB Weld doesn't hold
well t' t' PVC.
I used a Dremel t' ream out t' inside o' t' female portion of
the PVC fittin' so it would fit over t' 38mm tube and also trimmed t' other
end t' accommodate t' aft closure o' a Dr. Begad! Rocket case. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! This was nay too
difficult, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, and t' me surprise, me bucko, I didn't ruin t' thing. Avast, me proud beauty! I made this so long ago
that I forgot t' size o' t' fittings used, but this should be obvious if you
take a section o' tubin' with you t' t' hardware store. Begad!
T' LOC baffle consists o' a piece o' 29mm coupler tubing, arrr, ya bilge rat, a 3/8" retainin' rin' that fits in this coupler, a chunk o' thick wire mesh, me bucko, a 38mm OD centerin' ring, ya bilge rat, me bucko, and a small piece o' 38mm coupler tubing. Begad! You first epoxy t' retainin' rin' into one end o' t' 29mm coupler. Begad! Blimey! This rin' keeps the wire mesh from blowin' out t' top o' t' baffle. T' mesh is then folded tightly and inserted into t' coupler tube. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' 38mm rin' is glued t' t' 29mm coupler and t' 38mm coupler is then glued above that. Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! Finally, arrr, matey, t' baffle assembly is epoxied in t' motor tube. Aye aye! Avast! Blimey! T' baffles instructions say that it should be a minimum o' 10 inches above t' end o' t' longest motor. Ya scallywag! Blimey! It so happens I had a 20" piece o' motor tube, so that seemed like it should work fine.
T' five components o' t' nose section are all held in by maskin' tape and friction. Even though t' transitions have long shoulders, ya bilge rat, I was a little worried about it comin' apart at ejection. Blimey! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! So, I added some internal tethers to make sure t' pieces stayed connected in t' event they separated. Begad! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! As I said earlier, ya bilge rat, this rocket probably will be scavenged. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! If I were t' keep this in my fleet, me hearties, I would add some small screws t' attach t' components while keeping them removable. I also didn't trust t' molded eyelet on t' lower transition so I installed an eyebolt. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' access t' inside o' t' transition, matey, I cut a small square from t' its shoulder.
T' fins are made from layered pieces o' 3/32" ply. This is nay the best method o' fin construction, me bucko, me hearties, but I had much o' t' materials on hand. Even with thru-the-wall mounting, this material was way too flimsy, matey, so I grabbed some more coupons and bought more 3/32" ply t' add t' outer sections. Once laminated together and well filleted, these seem OK. Aye aye! T' results o' this "experiment" will appear in t' Flight section below.
T' shock tether will connect t' eyebolts on t' top CR and t' lower transition usin' quick links. Ahoy! T' R7 will also be attached t' t' transition.
Finishing:
I couldn't decide on a scheme for this rocket so all it got be a lot o' white
primer. Aye aye! Ahoy! This may be a good idea anyway, me hearties, since I want t' scavenge pieces for
another project. T' cone was already bright red.
Flight:
I flew t' TRFY on an I357T-10. Begad! T' sim said t' optimal delay was 9.65,
so t' -10 is about right. Prep included attachin' t' shock tether and chute.
T' PVC retainer made motor retention simple--a poor mans
"Aeropack".
Recovery:
T' flight was quick and deployment occurred just after apogee. Well, matey, blow me down! Blimey! Recovery was
perfect.
Summary:
T' flight and t' rocket were a success. Blimey! I like t' try out different things
and t' baffle, matey, homemade retainer, and "sandwich" fins all worked out
fine. I just may end up paintin' this rocket and buyin' an I600!
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