Brief:
This is a mini engine powered downscale o' t' Centuri ESS Raven contructed out o' cardstock, featurin' streamer recovery. Avast! This be one o' me favorite designs o' me younger days that I never got a chance t' build. T' two plan sheets give you all t' parts needed and then can be assembled usin' t' plan set from Jim Z: http://www.dars.org/jimz/cen5312.htm

Construction:
Components consist o' two plan sheets that should be printed on 65 lb. Begad! Ya scallywag! Blimey! paper. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Blimey! (Plan Sheet 1 - 892K; Plan Sheet 2 - 371K) There is a lot o' unprint area on t' sheets and that will be used t' laminate t' parts t' make them sturdier. Ya scallywag! Blimey! In addition a 12" length o' 1/8" elastic be used for t' shock cord, a 1" X 10" streamer cut from a plastic tablecloth, and a small ball o' clay for nose weight..

T' parts were cut out and t' wings, ya bilge rat, matey, main fins, matey, matey, stabilizer, ya bilge rat, win' support, arrr, stabilizer support, landin' gear, me hearties, sensor pod, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, and scoop were glued onto t' excess cardstock and placed betwixt wax paper on a flat surface under a heavy book until dry.

T' body tubes were pre-rolled by placin' them printed side down on a mouse pad and rollin' a dowel over them until they started t' take shape. Begad! Expended motor casings were used t' roll t' body tubes. Blimey! I rolled t' tube until it just started t' overlap and then spread Elmers white glue over t' exposed tab with a Q-tip and finished rolling. If you're careful, me bucko, t' edge should just match t' color seam line. Well, blow me down! Place them aside t' dry.

I pre-rolled t' body tube coupler, shiver me timbers, nose cone shoulder and engine block and placed them inside t' completed tubes t' check for size before gluein' them.

When t' flat parts are dry, me hearties, cut out t' parts and glue together t' top and bottom win' parts, left and right main fin, arrr, top and bottom stabilizer, scoop support and place them back under t' book t' dry.

T' nose cone is formed by rollin' and gluein' t' shroud piece, rollin' and gluin' t' shroud doubler inside, arrr, and formin' t' cone section. Ahoy! T' cone section is glued t' t' shroud, me hearties, linin' up t' printed cockpit, me bucko, and t' shroud glued t' t' short forward body section and t' nose cone shoulder glued into t' body tube leavin' 3/4 o' t' length outside t' tube.

From this point, me bucko, t' downloaded instructions can be followed. Well, me hearties, blow me down! Make sure t' put a launch lug on before gluin' t' nacelles. Ahoy! When attachin' t' wings, line up t' pre-printed markings. Blimey! This model uses an engine block. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Glue is smeared in t' body tube about 1 1/2" inside t' aft tube with a Q-tip and t' block pushed in with an expended motor until 1/4" is exposed. Ya scallywag! remove t' motor immediately.

T' prototype required 4 grams o' clay nose weight.

Finishing:
T' finishin' o' this model couldn't be easier. Aye aye! Everythin' is pre-colored and I used a couple coats o' gloss clear t' seal t' ink.

Flight:
T' model is light enough t' use 1/4A through 'A' 13mm mini engines. Avast! There really is no need t' use A10-3T's in this light a model as t' A3-4T has plenty o' power. I used a 1/2A3-4T for t' first flight. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! T' motor is a friction fit usin' maskin' tape. Aye aye! I used two squares o' waddin' but cut each square in half because o' t' small body tube. Aye aye! T' launch be straight and fast. Arrr! I almost lost sight o' t' model against t' overcast sky. I be able t' pick up t' streamer in t' air for a successful recovery. Well, blow me down! T' streamer really isn't needed and is thar t' help spot it. Avast! T' second and third flights were repeats o' t' first.

Recovery:
T' streamer probably isn't needed but helps in locatin' t' model both in t' air and on t' ground. Ya scallywag! There is nay a lot o' room in t' body so packin' t' shock cord and streamer must be done carefully.

Summary:
I really enjoyed makin' this. Begad! Begad! Blimey! T' model looks a lot like t' full size Raven.

Pro's - good looking, uncommon model. Inexpensive t' make and fly. No paintin' except clearcoat.

Con's - small body tube is difficult t' pack.

Other:
This be one o' me first attempts t' recreate some o' t' classic models in a small easy t' handle size.