G-whiz is a LMR/MPR/ low end HPR 3FNC/Payload design with one good idea at each end. It was intended t' be a testbed for an as-yet unbuilt rocket called I-whish ('cause I wish I could afford t' build it now), but two ideas define t' design for me: Replaceable fins and a double-wall payload section that extends forward into t' hollow plastic nose cone. Arrr! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty!

Bein' able t' replace t' fins means: (1) you can change t' shape, me hearties, size, and material, ya bilge rat, either t' experiment, arrr, arrr, or to suit t' payload and motor combination, ya bilge rat, or just for looks; (2) t' rocket packs for storage and transport in a much smaller box; and (3) t' fins are anchored t' t' inside o' t' body tube; t' fin mountin' pylon doubles as a gusset for t' motor mount, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, matey, and is epoxied t' t' MMT, t' airframe tube, and t' forward and aft centerin' rings for a rock-solid motor mount. Aye aye!

Double-wall payload construction means: (1) A cozy, well-protected environment for electronics or other payload; (2) payload tube extends into hollow nose cone, shiftin' weight and capacity forward into otherwise wasted space; and (3) adjustable ballast can be placed far forward in t' nose cone, requirin' less than if it were attached at t' base, and safer than if it were cast into t' tip. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! (4) T' real reason I did it, though, me bucko, was t' adapt t' an electrical stagin' arrangement in a project I call Hop on Pop -- which, arrr, when it flies, will launch a tiny dartlike sustainer powered by an Apogee B2-9. Begad! Arrr!

While G-whiz be envisioned for t' AeroTech G40-7 motor, me hearties, me bucko, it is HPR capable and its first flight was a perfect one with H238T-M(10). Ya scallywag!

G-whiz is nay related t' t' Pratt Hobbies altimeter called G-wiz, though it may someday use one. Avast!

Fin Material Selection: My fins are made from 1/16" fiberglass printed circuit board (PCB) material, which I bought from an electronics surplus outlet. Ahoy! T' copper can be etched away usin' Ferric Chloride etchant available at Radio Shack, which also sells sheets o' PCB if you can't buy it as junk. T' other basic option is 1/8" aircraft plywood. Avast, me proud beauty! Pylon and Fairin' Cores referred t' below can be o' any material but must be at least as thick as t' fin. Avast! Ahoy! (If you use a fin thinner than your pylon core, it can be shimmed.) Pylon and fairin' shells are 1/16" plywood which can be reinforced with fiberglass if desired. Ahoy! Well, arrr, blow me down!

Remainin' parts list:
LOC 2.14" tube, shiver me timbers, me hearties, arrr, cut t' 18.75" (booster tube) and 8" (payload shell)
LOC 1.52" tube, cut t' 15.25" (payload core)
LOC motor mount adapter kit, shiver me timbers, 1.14" in 2.14", shiver me timbers, consists o' 7.75" MMT(will be used), 6" coupler and two centerin' rings
LOC motor mount adapter kit, shiver me timbers, 1.52" in 2.14", consists o' MMT (not used), arrr, 6" coupler and two centerin' rings
Two 3/16" thread eyebolts, me hearties, two washers and four nuts t' fit
One plywood bulkhead t' fit 2.14" i.d. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! tube (Screw eye may be included; use this or eyebolt listed above)
One plywood* bulkhead t' fit 1.52" i.d. Begad! tube
One LOC 2.14" blow-molded white plastic nose cone
1/4" x 6" launch lug
Six , ya bilge rat, 2mm x 10mm oval head machine screws with nuts; use 12mm if pylon cores are 1/8" thick
Two inner thread, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, 1/4" o.d. Well, blow me down! T-nuts for motor retention, and oval head screws t' fit
Recovery harness and approx. 20" hemispherical or 26" flat cloth parachute
One sheet any color Trim Monokote for edge reinforcement and nose cone retention

Five minute epoxy, ya bilge rat, yellow glue, and/or C/A for quick assembly; 15 min. or 30 min. epoxy for fillets; razor saw; hobby knife; sandpaper; vise or clamps; approx. 6" piece o' metal angle stock; hack saw and file for cutting fiberglass sheet.

(1) Begin by preparing individual parts. Blimey!

From t' two 2.14" o.d. Ya scallywag! couplers cut three pieces: 1/2", 3" and 4" long (to match prototype; the 4" piece could just as easily be full 6"). Aye aye! Epoxy t' two 1.14" centerin' rings flush with one end of the 1/2" and 3" pieces, workin' epoxy into t' end layers o' t' coupler as you do so. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag!

Refer t' t' pattern layout and cut out pieces as follows: Three fins from your chosen material; three pylon cores and three fairin' cores from balsa or plywood stock at least as thick as t' fin; six pylon shells and six fairin' shells from 1/16" plywood. Aye aye! Avast! Stack all six pylon shells, me hearties, matey, clamp together, and drill t' two holes shown on the pattern, usin' a 1/16" drill. Begad! T' 2mm screws will thread through these but nay slide through. Begad!

Assemble t' three fairings and t' three pylons usin' 5 min. Well, matey, blow me down! epoxy, arrr, yellow glue, me bucko, or C/A. Ya scallywag! Begad! I used yellow glue and clamped each set betwixt two blocks o' wood until dry. If you glass t' pylon shells, you will need t' assemble them with epoxy. Well, blow me down!

Mark t' main booster tube for three fins. Arrr! Make an additional mark clockwise from each mark by t' thickness of the assembled pylons. Well, blow me down! Mark 1" and 3.75" from t' aft end o' t' tube. Avast! Arrr! Usin' t' metal angle as a guide/ruler and a very sharp hobby knife, matey, cut t' three slots, shiver me timbers, which will each be 2.75" long, shiver me timbers, me hearties, ya bilge rat, either 3/16" or 1/4" wide, arrr, and 1" from t' aft end. Avast! Ahoy! Clean up t' edges o' t' cut slots, me hearties, arrr, especially inside. Begad! Followin' steps will be easiest if each pylon fits just snugly enough in a slot t' hold its place while you work.

Slide t' 3" coupler into t' tube from t' front, centerin' rin' aft. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! Fit t' three pylons through their slots from t' inside, arrr, sandin' t' shoulders o' t' pylons as needed t' make them sit squarely in position. Well, blow me down! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! Push t' coupler down against t' pylons from t' front. Arrr! Test-fit the 2.14" i.d. Aye aye! Arrr! x 7.75" motor mount tube through t' pylons t' and through t' centerin' ring, and then slip the short coupler and rin' assembly over t' MMT and into t' aft end o' t' main tube. Ahoy! You want all three pylons t' rest against but nay dent or damage t' MMT. Well, blow me down! Carve or sand until this be t' case. T' short coupler should be flush with the aft end o' t' body tube. Remove everythin' (except t' 3" coupler may be left inside t' forward part o' the tube; move it several inches out o' position). Begad! Ya scallywag! Note and mark which pylon fits which slot; they are unlikely t' be identical. Aye aye! Ahoy!

Place t' aft centerin' rin' assembly (with 1/2" coupler) rin' side up. Avast! Blimey! Drill two 1/4" holes in the plywood ring, on opposite sides, shiver me timbers, so that t' holes just touch t' cardboard coupler at t' outer edge. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Test fit the T-nuts, ya bilge rat, arrr, then epoxy them into place from t' centerin' rin' side o' t' assembly. Avast, me proud beauty!

(3) Final assemble t' motor mount and fin canister. Ya scallywag!

Put a dab o' 5-minute epoxy or yellow glue on t' "shoulders" o' one pylon and glue it in place from the inside o' t' tube, shiver me timbers, alignin' it carefully. Avast, me proud beauty! When it has set, me hearties, shiver me timbers, use a dowel or stick t' generously spread slow-cure epoxy in t' area where t' 3" coupler will rest; push it down into position, arrr, pausin' when it is a half-inch from the pylon. Aye aye! Use t' stick t' spread epoxy generously on t' face o' t' centerin' ring, shiver me timbers, bein' careful nay t' get any on the inside surface o' t' ring; they fit quite tightly as it is. Now push t' coupler down against t' first installed pylon. Begad!

Again usin' t' fast-curin' epoxy (C/A if you prefer) tack t' other two pylons in place. When t' fast-cure epoxy is quite tacky but preferably still flexible, ya bilge rat, install t' MMT t' t' forward centerin' rin' by coatin' the outside surface o' t' tube and pushin' it in from t' rear. Aye aye! Be sure t' coupler stays in place against t' forward end of t' pylons! Hold t' MMT in place with t' aft centerin' ring, shiver me timbers, but do nay attach it yet! Push t' MMT forward until it projects from t' aft end o' t' body nay more than 3/8". Aye aye! Adjust everythin' for best possible alignment and allow it t' cure.

Remove t' aft centerin' rin' assembly. With a dowel or other stick, me bucko, ya bilge rat, fillet t' pylons inside t' main body and at t' MMT. Aye aye! It helps t' do one o' t' three cells at a time. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down!

When all fillets are firm, me hearties, apply epoxy around t' inside lip o' t' body tube and t' t' aft ends o' t' pylons; press t' aft centerin' rin' assembly in place. Ya scallywag! Allow t' cure. Arrr!

(4) Shock Cord Mount.

Note: this describes t' system in place in me prototype, arrr, which uses braided elastic for t' shock cord. If you use tubular nylon it might be better t' epoxy t' end o' it t' t' inside o' t' 3" coupler before installing that; in this case, omit t' plywood bulkhead. Ya scallywag! Blimey! This would have t' added advantage o' allowin' a longer motor casing such as t' 29/240. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad!

T' 2.14" plywood bulkhead disk gets three holes: a 3/16" hole in t' center and a 1/2" hole on either side o' it. Blimey! T' two larger holes are t' pass ejection gas and should be out toward t' edges o' t' disk. Ya scallywag! One of the eyebolts goes in t' center hole. Ahoy! Blimey! Put a nut on t' eyebolt, me hearties, then t' disk, then a washer, me hearties, then another nut. Ahoy! Coat the nuts, bolt threads, me bucko, and washer with epoxy and cinch down t' nuts on both sides o' t' bulkhead. Well, blow me down! Epoxy this t' the forward end o' t' 3" coupler which you installed earlier as part o' t' motor mount, ya bilge rat, with t' eyebolt facing forward into t' recovery bay. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! Fillet t' edges o' t' bulkhead with slow-cure epoxy. Ahoy!

(5) Fin Fairings

Sand t' leadin' edge o' each fairin' assembly round. Arrr!

Test-fit t' fins and be sure each fin will sit firmly in one o' t' pylons. Begad! Ahoy! Mark them, arrr, if necessary, t' assign one particular fin t' each pylon. Begad!

With a fin in place, arrr, me hearties, test-fit a pylon t' t' front o' it. T' tabs on t' fairin' shells should just touch the tabs on t' pylon shells. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Trim or sand as necessary for best fit. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Blimey! Glue/epoxy t' fairings t' t' BODY TUBE ONLY, arrr, nay to the fin! Blimey! You may wish t' tape t' fairin' shell tabs t' t' pylon tabs while glue dries. When dry, remove t' fin and fillet t' fairin' and fin pylon tabs with a single application o' epoxy. Arrr! At this point I also worked a coat o' epoxy into t' entire surface o' t' fairing, matey, especially t' leadin' edge. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Allow t' cure.

Re-install each fin and mark with a pencil where t' screw holes will be. Arrr! Drill slightly larger holes in the fins: I used a 3/32" bit. Now you can test fit t' nuts and bolts. Begad!

(6) Launch Lug

Prototype's 1/4" i.d. Ahoy! x 6" long launch lug is centered betwixt two fins but farther forward, ya bilge rat, with the aft end about 2" forward o' t' tips o' t' fin fairings. Ahoy! Blimey! Since t' CP (as drawn) is near t' forward tip o' the fairings, t' rocket will be stable if t' balance point (CG) is within t' length o' t' launch lug. Ahoy! If you prefer, you can use two short lengths o' launch lug, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, me bucko, one at t' aft end o' t' body and t' other anywhere forward o' t' CG.

(7) Nose Cone

Saw t' conical aft end off t' nose cone, matey, leavin' about 2" o' shoulder. Arrr! Clean up t' cut end and sand the edge slightly rounded on t' outside. Begad! T' payload core tube will extend up into t' hollow nose cone. Avast!

(8) Payload Tube Assembly

a. Begad! Ahoy! Use t' coupler and rings from t' 1.52 in 2.14 motor mount. Begad! In place o' t' tube supplied, use a 15.25" piece o' 1.52 (or other 38mm) tube. Arrr! Epoxy t' two rings into t' coupler 1/8" from each end. Blimey! (In t' prototype, the coupler has been shortened t' 4", me hearties, shiver me timbers, which is unnecessary; I had used 2" o' coupler in another project.)

b. Blimey! Venting. T' payload core tube must be vented t' t' outside. Begad! Arrr! T' achieve this, holes are cut before assembly of t' payload. Aye aye! Ahoy! First, drill a 1/4" hole in t' side o' t' 1.52" core tube at least 2" and nay more than 3.5" from t' aft end. Avast! Use a paper punch t' make a neat hole about 1/2" from t' aft end o' the 2.14" outer tube. Begad! Test-fit t' coupler with 2" projectin' from t' main tube and mark on t' coupler where the hole falls. Begad! Remove t' tube and cut an openin' in t' coupler around t' mark. Blimey!

c. Ahoy! Blimey! Assembly: Epoxy t' 1.52" tube into t' coupler and rin' assembly, so t' aft ends are flush. Blimey! T' hole in t' tube must be betwixt t' rings inside t' coupler. When epoxy is set, matey, arrr, apply generous fillets in t' recesses at each end o' t' coupler, one at a time. Begad! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Then epoxy t' outer tube onto t' coupler, ya bilge rat, matey, matchin' up t' holes you made and leavin' at least 2" o' coupler exposed as a matin' surface. Begad! Well, me bucko, blow me down! Blimey! Be sure t' core tube is centered in t' front end of the outer tube; use wedges if necessary t' keep it in position until t' epoxy sets. Well, blow me down! Blimey!

d. Arrr! Aye aye! Bulkhead: Prepare a 1.52" bulkhead with eyebolt. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! In t' prototype, this bulkhead is made from an aluminum "silver dollar" token from Reno, which fit perfectly. Begad! Epoxy t' bulkhead inside t' 1.52" tube, recessed an inch or two but NOT forward o' t' vent hole made earlier. Blimey! T' recess allows any hardware -- such as quicklinks -- used t' attach t' shock cord t' be out o' t' way. Avast! Ahoy! Hint: If you plan t' use a quicklink, it will be easier t' install if t' eyebolt is about 3/8" off center with t' hole facin' center. Ya scallywag!

e. Ya scallywag! Finishing: T' payload tubes may be finished and painted before assembly. Mask off and do nay paint t' aft 6-1/2" o' t' core tube. My payload is finished only with Trim Monokote.

T' nose cone will be fitted over t' core tube and plugged into t' outer tube. It can be secured with screws through t' outer tube if you wish, me hearties, arrr, but I used plastic electrical tape t' secure it. Ahoy! Arrr! T' protect t' finish, I applied a trim stripe o' Trim Monokote t' t' forward end o' t' payload. Well, me bucko, actually, t' whole payload section o' my prototype is covered in Trim Monokote, matey, as are t' fins and t' forward 2" o' t' main body tube.

(9) Motor Retention:

"Kaplow Klips" can be anchored in t' T-nuts described earlier, matey, or t' motor can be taped t' t' aft end o' t' MMT. Avast, me proud beauty! I have done both on this rocket.

(10) Parachute Size

RockSim specifies a 34" parachute for this rocket, which will nay fit in t' recovery bay unless you modify the design by extendin' t' body at least 4" (which will nay hurt it, shiver me timbers, btw). Blimey! Three flights, however, confirm that a 20" hemi cloth chute is adequate and does fit. Blimey!

(11) Mods, or "what I would do if or when I do it again:" Some are mentioned above. Avast! Arrr!

a. Ahoy! Body tube length: Originally both main body and payload were set at 15.25" for no better reason than the rocket, disassembled, would fit in me briefcase. I added 3.5" when it obviously needed more parachute space, givin' up t' briefcase idea. Arrr! Begad! In hindsight I would have made t' main body about 24" long. Well, blow me down! This will move both the CP and CG forward, but will nay hurt t' design overall, arrr, me bucko, and would facilitate use o' t' 29/240 hardware. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad!

b. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Fin thickness: My fins are 1/16" thick, ya bilge rat, and only t' fiberglass ones are strong enough at that thickness. Begad! I suggest in t' instructions above makin' t' fin mount cores 1/8" thick. Begad! PCB fins would still work with shims. Well, blow me down! Blimey!

c. Ahoy! Inside bulkhead and shock cord mount: T' bulkhead in t' prototype was part o' a baffle arrangement that did not work. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! T' centered eyebolt works well with me elastic shock cord. Begad! Ahoy! However, shiver me timbers, if I started today I would omit the bulkhead and use a tubular nylon harness with t' end epoxied t' t' inside surface o' t' coupler before assembly.

d. Reinforcement: I would suggest laminatin' t' pylon shells with a layer o' 2oz fiberglass before assembly, and also layin' a coverin' o' fiberglass over t' fin fairings after assembly.

In case you wondered: T' blue-bordered picture you see at top left be t' second flight o' Gwhiz, about an hour after t' first. Ya scallywag! It had a different set o' fins and t' 1.52" nose cone, which made it look quite different. Begad! The photo taken in me livin' room has yet another set o' red fins, which I haven't used in flight because they're t' same material as t' ones that shredded.
(the benefit o' reconfigurable fins - ed.)