Brief:
I think t' Apollo Little Joe 2 is probably me favorite rocket o' all time. Begad! I am nay sure why but I liked t' appearance o' it back in t' late '60s when I purchased me first Estes kit durin' me high school days. Avast! I think it be t' Apollo capsule and launch escape system (LES) parked on top o' a stubby, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, brute force rocket o' very basic design. Well, blow me down! T' actual vehicle was a conglomeration o' solid motors assembled in an airframe for acceleratin' t' Apollo/LES combo t' simulate actual Saturn flight conditions for testin' t' LES. Blimey! And personally I like t' early clean versions o' t' rocket better than t' later much more elaborate versions. Begad! I recently built t' Semroc small version and decided it was time t' pull out t' large scale kit that I had purchased from Sheri a few months back but hadn't started yet. Ya scallywag! This kit is definitely a test o' a modeler's buildin' skills and that be part o' me reason for puttin' off buildin' it. Ahoy! But it looked t' be a great scale model and impressive flyin' model o' t' Little Joe.

Construction:
T' rocket came from Sheri in a cardboard box. Ahoy! This kit has a large tube and t' various parts were packed loosely in t' box. Ya scallywag! Avast! Instructions were a copied multi-page manual with pictures o' t' various phases o' construction. Avast, me proud beauty! Parts include:

• Large heavy duty, carpet tube type body tube
• 29 mm engine tube
• Plywood engine centerin' rings
• Plywood capsule base disk
• Sheet o' styrene for t' fins and capsule
• Corrugated plastic body tube wrap (2 pieces)
• Plastruct round tubin' for escape tower
• Plastruct small square trim strips
• Large screw eye and lockin' nut
• Wooden dowel for escape tower
• PVC launch lugs
• Wooden launch lug standoffs
• Small wooden dowel for capsule tip

Lookin' through t' box o' parts me first impression was this was goin' t' be a significant construction task, me hearties, probably more than I had assumed when I purchased t' kit but still manageable. Aye aye! Blimey! Everythin' involved in construction was goin' t' require building, me bucko, arrr, thar were really no pre-made or molded parts other than t' corrugated wrap and launch lugs. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! Blimey! I also immediately noted t' body tube which appeared similar t' t' tubin' you see used for carpet rolls. Avast! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! T' tube had a deep spiral groove, arrr, t' surface be fuzzy and very rough, and t' tube was very heavy which could be considered as much a plus as a minus. Avast! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I suppose I was rather unimpressed by this and realized this tube was goin' t' take some real work t' obtain a smooth surface finish. I actually put off buildin' this model for some months after openin' it once I discovered this durin' me initial inspection.

My first step was t' assemble t' engine mount. T' kit includes a length o' 29mm tube for t' engine. Avast! T' tube was longer than I felt necessary so I cut it down t' about 12 inches in length. Avast! I then epoxied t' plywood centerin' rings about an inch from each end. Begad! After these had cured, me hearties, ya bilge rat, I drilled a small hole in t' forward centerin' rin' and installed t' screw eye and nut for t' recovery system epoxyin' t' nut after threadin' it on t' prevent t' possibility it would come loose in t' future. Avast! I also attached a 15 inch long piece o' braided wire cable I had bought at t' hardware store for attachin' t' recovery system later. Avast! I used a wire crimp t' secure t' braided wire through t' screw eye.

Next up be cuttin' t' main rocket body tube piece from t' cardboard tube. Avast! Blimey! T' cardboard tube be a single piece and t' body tube and nose cone coupler need t' be cut from it. Aye aye! Blimey! Because o' t' thickness o' t' tube t' cuttin' be somewhat difficult. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! A saw was recommended, but I simply used a heavy duty X-Acto knife with a fresh blade. Ahoy! Blimey! It took a number o' rotations around t' tube with t' knife but I managed a good clean cut. Blimey! Blimey! I then epoxied t' engine mount into t' tube so that t' engine tube be flush with t' aft end o' t' body tube. Avast! Blimey! I finished by applyin' epoxy fillets around t' aft centerin' ring.

When this was completed I marked off roughly where t' forward edge o' t' corrugated plastic wrap would come t' on t' body tube. Avast! Well, blow me down! I performed me finishin' on t' body tube only t' a point slightly below where t' corrugated wrap would end which saved a significant amount o' work finishin' t' tube. Begad! I filled t' very deep and wide spiral groove with Elmer's squeeze putty and sanded it smooth after it had hardened. Ya scallywag! I then applied two coats o' Elmer's Fill 'n' Finish mixed in water t' seal t' tube. Ya scallywag! Betwixt each coat I sanded t' rough tube t' a smooth finish. I followed this up with two coats o' Coverite balsa prep sandin' betwixt coats. Avast! Finally I painted t' tube with three coats o' Rustoleum gray auto primer sandin' betwixt coats. Arrr! Ya scallywag! This completed t' tube prep and I had a fairly good smooth finish on t' upper portion o' t' tube.

Next up was applyin' t' corrugated plastic wrap t' t' body. Arrr! Blimey! Because o' t' large diameter o' t' body tube, t' wrap comes in two pieces. Ahoy! They need t' be joined with a thin strip o' plastic that is supplied with t' kit. Avast, me proud beauty! It is a fairly simple task which I performed on me extremely flat kitchen counter. I used Tenex liquid plastic cement and applied a coatin' t' both sides o' t' corrugated wraps and then t' t' plastic couplin' strip. This does need t' be done very smartly since t' liquid glue evaporates rapidly. T' slightly soft plastic strip is lapped across t' two corrugated wraps t' join them. Avast! This worked very well and once t' glue had cured, me hearties, shiver me timbers, t' corrugated wrap was a single piece. T' next step t' prepare for gluin' t' wrap t' t' tube be t' tightly wrap it around t' tube and mark where t' joint will be. Avast! T' corrugated wrap is then cut lengthwise t' make it t' correct diameter for t' body tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! This is fairly simple since t' corrugations provide a perfect markin' line for t' cut. Sheri recommends attachin' t' wrap t' t' body tube with CA glue. Avast! I decided, shiver me timbers, based on doin' plastic wraps previously, ya bilge rat, t' use spray contact cement. Ahoy! Ahoy! I masked off t' forward end o' t' body tube with paper t' protect it from contact cement overspray and sprayed t' cement onto t' lower tube. Aye aye! I then sprayed t' cement onto t' back o' t' corrugated wrap. I had also penciled a lengthwise line on t' body tube t' line up t' wrap with prior t' sprayin' t' contact cement on. I very carefully lined up one edge o' t' wrap t' this line and workin' from that edge around tightly pressed t' wrap onto t' body tube. Arrr! Ya scallywag! This needs t' be done very carefully t' get t' correct alignment and because bucklin' or misalignment o' t' wrap would be very difficult if nay impossible t' fix. Blimey! After t' wrap is on t' body tube I carefully glued down all t' edges with medium thick CA glue. Blimey! T' final step is t' use CA glue t' attach some small strips o' square plastruct around t' top and bottom edge o' t' wrap. This provides a nice clean edge for t' wrap.

In parallel with t' body tube prep, I had also started workin' on t' fins. Arrr! T' fins are built up usin' 0.030 inch thick styrene. Avast, me proud beauty! I cut t' fin template from t' instruction sheet and penciled t' template onto t' styrene for all eight fins. Sheri recommended that a knife be used t' scribe t' styrene and then breakin' t' fins from t' styrene. I found that a good pair o' scissors worked fine and cut all me templates and strips from t' styrene with t' scissors. Avast! Begad! After t' fin panels are cut, matey, me hearties, it be necessary t' cut some strips o' styrene 1/4 inch wide. Avast, me proud beauty! These are used for t' fin edges. Arrr! T' inboard side and bottom are made from t' strip while t' tip edge needs t' be cut t' a triangular shape. Avast, me proud beauty! With all t' parts cut I glued t' fins together with Tenex liquid plastic glue, which was nay too difficult t' use. Arrr! T' Tenex literally melts t' plastic together which provides a relatively strong joint when completed. After readin' Andrew Connor's review I purchased some foam spray insulation at t' hardware and filled t' fins with t' foam. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! If you do this one thin' t' note is that I probably only got one fin completely filled with t' foam, shiver me timbers, t' others were partially filled, but it still made all o' t' fins much more solid and I would recommend it. Ahoy! Finally, I sanded down all t' edges on t' fins t' get a smooth joint.

It was now time t' attach t' fins t' t' tube. I attached t' fins with 12 minute epoxy and once t' epoxy cured, me hearties, I filleted t' joint with medium CA glue. Avast! This provided a fairly strong joint and hopefully t' landings won't break t' fins off. Ya scallywag! If they do, it should be fairly easy t' glue them back on. T' final step for t' fuselage was t' glue t' launch lugs on usin' t' small spruce standoffs. Aye aye! I attached them with medium CA glue and then filleted t' joints with 12 minute epoxy.

T' boiler plate Apollo capsule was t' next step in t' build. Begad! This is a completely do it yourself build, matey, meanin' no molded parts. Avast! It is nay for t' light hearted or craftsmanship challenged. Ya scallywag! It starts with construction o' t' capsule. T' capsule cone is cut from t' 0.030 inch thick styrene usin' t' template. Begad! Aye aye! After cuttin' it a rectangular joiner strip is also cut from t' styrene. Arrr! I then took t' capsule piece and did a bit o' "shaping" by forcin' it into t' cone shape and carefully bendin' in some o' t' shape. Begad! Aye aye! After doin' this I glued t' joiner strip down one side with t' Tenex glue. Begad! Once this had cured sufficiently, ya bilge rat, I applied t' Tenex t' t' joiner strip and t' opposite side o' t' capsule. Aye aye! I smartly joined t' edges and clamped them with some small clamps I have. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! As t' glue started curing, arrr, I pressed t' edges o' t' joint as flush as possible t' get a good even joint. Aye aye! Ahoy! After t' glue cured I had a nice strong joint with only a minor lip and gap. Ya scallywag! I sanded down t' joint t' get a flush surface across t' joint and then usin' Aves epoxy putty I filled t' small gaps. Begad! When this had hardened I sanded t' joint smooth and ended up with a very good smooth joint, me bucko, barely visible t' t' eye. Ahoy! T' form t' tip o' t' capsule Sheri provides a small dowel about a half inch in diameter. I carved it t' t' triangular point and sanded it down t' t' final shape. After completin' this I installed it in t' hole in t' nose o' t' capsule tip usin' more o' t' Aves epoxy putty. Aye aye! When t' putty had cured I strengthened t' internal joint betwixt t' styrene and dowel with a liberal dowsin' o' CA medium glue. Arrr! Ya scallywag! For t' outer joint where t' dowel met t' styrene, arrr, I sanded down t' epoxy t' dowel joint and ended with a fairly smooth joint.

T' tower was next and be a significant scratch build as well. Well, blow me down! Sheri provides pieces o' styrene rods for t' tower structure. Begad! There were two templates provided for buildin' t' tower. Begad! I glued one o' them down on a piece o' thick cardboard for pinnin' t' struts t' as I built. I cut t' plastic rod t' t' sizes o' t' strut pieces and pinned t' two length wise sides into place. Aye aye! Begad! I then cut t' braces and glued each into place with t' Tenex glue. Ya scallywag! I continued this process for t' entire quarter panel. Ahoy! Sheri's directions said t' use t' sheet styrene for t' very bottom strut but I did mine usin' t' rod. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! On this original Little Joe she modeled it may have been sheet metal but I went with t' rod as was used in later versions. Ya scallywag! I had also noted prior t' t' build that t' LES tower was much different in configuration then later Little Joes and t' final LES tower. Arrr! I also believe that this first LJ2 was strictly t' test flight worthiness and did nay fire t' LES rocket so t' LES rocket nozzles were also missing. Arrr! I built t' two halves o' t' tower this way and then prepared t' join them. I cut t' individual tower rods and while holdin' t' tower in place glued a two o' t' horizontal pieces at t' top and bottom into place on each side usin' CA glue. Ahoy! Blimey! Once t' tower structure was solid after doin' this, matey, I started cuttin' and gluin' t' various struts into place. Begad! My method o' doin' this be t' first attach t' strut and lock it into place with CA glue and then t' go back and saturate t' joint with t' Tenex styrene bonder. Ya scallywag! T' Tenex also helps in actually causin' t' styrene t' "melt" and flow across t' joint for a nice flush joint as well as very strong joint. Aye aye! Blimey! This basically completed t' tower.

Next up was buildin' t' escape rocket itself. Avast! A hardwood dowel cut t' t' correct length is included with t' kit. Avast! T' directions are t' carve or cut as necessary one end t' t' shape o' t' LES rocket. I be a bit reluctant thinkin' I might make a mess and destroy t' dowel but figured I could always purchase another at t' hardware store. Arrr! I took me heavy X-Acto knife and after drawin' a line for t' lower end o' t' taper, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, attacked t' dowel. I basically whittled away t' dowel t' obtain t' same general shape as t' actual LES rocket tip. O' course carvin' alone did nay give me what I needed but I managed t' get close enough that with a lot o' elbow grease and sandpaper I actually ended up with a very good tip on t' dowel. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Once this is complete, a disc is cut from t' styrene usin' t' template for t' base o' t' LES rocket. Blimey! I then epoxied t' dowel centered onto t' styrene disc. Ahoy! Ahoy! T' aft tapered shroud on t' escape rocket is then cut from styrene usin' t' template. Blimey! I glued t' shroud together with a small tab o' t' thin' styrene and then fit checked in on t' escape rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! It fit almost perfectly and after a minor bit o' sandin' I glued it t' t' disc with t' Tenex glue and t' t' dowel with medium CA glue. Begad! Blimey! There are also four structural square beams simulated on t' LES rocket tail cone usin' t' square styrene included with t' kit. Avast! I was actually rather pleasantly surprised that it all turned out so well. T' finish up t' LES rocket I gave it three coats o' Rustoleum primer and sanded betwixt each coat t' fill t' wood and joints. Avast, me proud beauty! It looked pretty good when I completed it.

I returned t' t' tower after this and did a bit o' sandin' and gluin' at t' various structural joints t' clean it up. Arrr! I then placed it on t' LES rocket base and marked t' strut locations while centerin' it. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! I then drilled small holes matchin' t' diameter o' t' tower struts at each marking. Aye aye! Blimey! Next up be carefully locatin' t' tower struts into these holes and while makin' sure everythin' was level and aligned, I used medium CA t' permanently attach t' tower t' t' rocket. Begad! T' assembly turned out t' be good and strong. Aye aye! At this point I decided since t' tower and LES rocket are white and t' rest o' t' LJ2 is aluminum I would first paint both before attachin' t' tower t' t' capsule.

A coupler is needed t' mate t' capsule t' t' body. Well, arrr, blow me down! There was nay a pre-made coupler included so this required buildin' as well. I have done this with regular type tubes in t' past but this one be a bit more difficult. Sheri's directions build one from a two-inch length o' body tube which is what I did. Arrr! I first cut t' piece from t' remainin' body tube. I then sliced it vertically so it could fold on itself. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! It was then inserted into t' body tube and marked so that it could be cut t' match t' inner diameter o' t' body tube. After this is completed, arrr, it is joined with a tab cut from t' body tube as well. Well, blow me down! You then effectively have a self-made stage coupler which is then epoxied t' t' base o' t' capsule.

Once I had completed t' paintin' o' t' capsule and tower, I fitted t' tower t' t' capsule. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Sheri provides a template which fairly closely matched t' base o' me tower but I decided t' simply align t' tower on t' capsule and mark where t' struts touched t' capsule. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! After doin' this, I carefully drilled holes in t' capsule for t' struts. I then placed t' tower struts into t' holes and aligned t' tower t' be as vertical as I could determine. Ya scallywag! Blimey! With t' tower in position, I used medium CA glue again t' permanently glue t' tower into place. Begad! Blimey! After it was securely held in place, arrr, matey, I carefully filled any gaps in t' tower t' capsule holes with medium CA glue and permanently glued t' capsule into place. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! While this capsule/tower assembly be a tedious and difficult build, arrr, it actually turned out very nicely and I be rather proud o' me accomplishment.

At this point t' only thin' remainin' be t' install a recovery system. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Sheri did nay include anythin' in this department so I purchased 12 feet o' tubular nylon cord so that I could prevent any rebound causin' damage t' t' rocket, particularly t' LES tower and t' fins. Arrr! Ya scallywag! I also used a 60-inch cloth chute from another kit and will purchase a dedicated chute later.

Finishing:
I wrote a bit about finishin' this model in t' construction section. Arrr! I will therefore highlight some o' me specific thoughts. First off was finishin' t' body tube. Aye aye! It had an extremely rough and porous surface as well as a deep spiral groove. Blimey! I filled t' groove first with Elmer's putty and then put a couple o' coats o' water diluted Elmer's Fill 'n' Finish on it. Aye aye! Blimey! After this and a good sanding, me bucko, ya bilge rat, I applied two coats o' Topflite balsa finisher. Well, blow me down! I also only performed this process on t' upper section o' t' tube that t' wrap did nay cover t' minimize t' work. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! Overall it produced a reasonably good surface although nay perfect. Begad! T' remainder o' t' rocket was made o' t' styrene sheet material that required no paintin' prep. Well, blow me down! T' hardwood LES rocket was given a couple o' coats o' Rustoleum gray primer and sandin' betwixt coats produced a sealed surface for painting. Aye aye! I painted t' overall rocket with Kyrlon flat aluminum paint and t' LES rocket and tower with Krylon white. Ya scallywag! T' tower was attached after paintin' since paintin' t' cone and tower as one piece would have been basically impossible.

T' decals were next. Sheri provided t' United States letterin' for t' side o' t' rocket as decals. These were fairly simple t' apply although when dryin' one off, arrr, me hearties, it came free o' t' rocket and was destroyed. Avast! Ahoy! Sheri kindly sent a replacement. I used decal solution t' get t' decals t' conform better t' t' corrugations on body wrap. T' block patterns on t' forward end o' t' rocket came as very thin stick-ons. Aye aye! I did nay really want t' use these as I was concerned as they aged they would start t' peel. Ya scallywag! I therefore used t' stick-on blocks t' layout t' pattern on t' rocket and then masked and painted t' block patterns usin' Krylon black paint. Overall t' paint scheme was duplicated and I was very pleased with t' results.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
T' engine mount is a 29mm diameter so it limits t' selection o' engines and bein' a rather heavy rocket a minimum o' a medium power G should be used. Ahoy! Sheri recommends t' single use Aerotech G40-4 engine for flyin' t' LJ2. I could have bought one o' these but had in stock an Aerotech RMS G64-4W. Begad! Also t' G64 costs less t' fly and has 12 Ns greater impulse than t' G40. Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! I flew t' LJ2 for t' first time at t' 2008 Bunnell Blast in Florida. Nay havin' an engine lockin' system installed, I wrapped maskin' tape around t' engine for a tight fit and then also threaded a screw into t' wooden centerin' rin' next t' t' engine tube with t' lip o' t' screw over t' notch in t' reload casing. Well, blow me down! I didn't want t' have a possible misfire, which in t' past I frequently had usin' Copperhead igniters, me bucko, arrr, so I used a small electric match t' light t' engine. Begad! I packed a 60" chute from me PML Black Brant as Sheri recommended and used a Nomex cloth parachute protector t' protect t' chute from t' ejection charge. Begad! Begad! T' rocket flew off a quarter inch rod about four feet long. Ahoy! Blimey! T' wind be blowin' about 5 mph at liftoff and t' rocket weather cocked slightly into t' wind at about a 20 degree angle off vertical but flew t' about 250 feet. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! It descended a bit more than I liked prior t' t' ejection charge goin' off, ya bilge rat, a bit typical o' AeroTech engines, but t' chute then popped and blossomed immediately. Arrr! It floated gently t' t' ground with one fin joint fracturin' at touch down. Avast! I will fly it again and probably use t' same engine. Well, blow me down! Begad! T' engine mount tube is long enough that I might consider a longer reloadable 29mm engine in t' future as well.

Recovery:
As noted previously I used a 60-inch parachute from me PML Black Brant. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I plan on buyin' a 60-inch chute t' permanently assign t' t' LJ2 in t' future. Aye aye! Begad! Sheri did nay include a chute or shock line system so I also installed a 12 foot length o' LOC tubular nylon cord for t' shock cord system which I tied t' t' braided wire I had previously installed in t' rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Durin' t' flight, t' shock system worked perfectly and t' chute blossomed almost immediately after deployment. Arrr! T' rocket is a bit on t' heavy side weighin' over 2.5 pounds for flight and t' 60-inch chute worked perfectly.

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
While bein' a bit let down upon me initial look at this kit when I opened t' box and saw t' parts, I ended up quite happy with t' finished rocket. It was a true builders rocket as you can tell from t' article. Avast, me proud beauty! About t' only pre-made part be t' corrugated wrap and that required a bit o' work as well. Begad! I personally actually like rockets like this as I enjoy buildin' probably more than flying. Well, blow me down! I did spend a good amount o' time buildin' this rocket but t' finished bird was well worth it. Ahoy! I got a few nice compliments at t' launch site and had a good first flight. I think t' big thin' now is I hope I never get a bad flight and crash it, me bucko, nay because o' t' cost involved in cash but because o' t' time involved in building.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5