The Launch Pad Hawk MIM-23A

The Launch Pad - Hawk MIM-23A {Kit}

Contributed by Barry Forrest

Construction Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Flight Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Overall Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Published: 2011-01-01
Manufacturer: The Launch Pad


[Rocket Pic]After constructin' and flyin' a few Estes kits, arrr, ya bilge rat, and buildin' t' Aerotech Arreux, me bucko, I thought I'd try me hand at buildin' a scale missile from T' Launch Pad.  Havin' never tried their kits, I was in for some surprises. Well, blow me down! Upon receivin' t' HAWK kit, ya bilge rat, I opened t' find no decals, thin body tubin' (like Estes), and a small Mylar chute with thread for shroud lines. Begad! Well, blow me down! I decided t' deviate from t' design a bit t' insure what I thought would make t' HAWK more durable.

T' instructions are great, ya bilge rat, all parts included, ya bilge rat, and a nice layout t' outline t' paintin' and detail work.

Construction:

T' nose cone is shaped t' a point by addin' a paper cone t' t' top.  T' instructions say t' "paint" t' paper cone with thin CA t' make it tough and aide against sandin' damage. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! I upgradin' it by fillin' t' paper cone with epoxy just before attachin' t' t' nose cone and coated it entirely with finishin' epoxy. Begad! This would make t' cone easy t' sand and shape, as well as t' insure it would nay be damaged by hard landings. 

T' tail cone is made from paper like t' nose addition. Blimey! After attachin' t' t' main airframe, arrr, I coated with finishin' epoxy and feathered into t' airframe. Begad! Ya scallywag! I also epoxied a length o' stiff cardboard around t' inside o' t' extension t' "beef up" t' inner tube so no damage would occur from hard landings.

T' airframe is supplied in 2 parts with a coupler. Blimey! I used tite bond wood glue t' bond and then coated t' seam with finishin' epoxy.  There is a chute compartment floor rin' (with 8 1/4" holes or a big 1" hole) that is installed later, 6" from t' top o' t' frame so upon launch t' chute will nay slide down and change t' CG.

T' fins are long but are easy t' make (even t' small detail on t' ends) with t' supplied tracin' sheet. Once attached t' t' airframe (I used 5 min epoxy) and filleted (with 15 min epoxy), matey, I coated them with finishin' epoxy. Begad! They are fairly durable but because o' t' balsa core, me hearties, shiver me timbers, a hard impact will make t' epoxy chip off. Aye aye! You could paint them with CA. Begad! Begad! Next time I would fiberglass t' fins and t' airframe t' aide in durability.

Paintin' is easy as it is all flat white. Aye aye! T' letterin' and block detailin' be done with decals I made with Labco decal paper, me bucko, printed from me computer and copier, me hearties, shiver me timbers, and fine pinstripin' tape. Blimey! Well, blow me down! Once applied t' entire rocket was coated with matt finish Krylon.

For recovery, I upgraded t' shock cord from t' 1/4" elastic t' 1/2" elastic and made it 6 feet long. Begad! I attached it with tite bond t' t' inside o' t' airframe tube with t' paper anchor supplied but made t' anchor a bit bigger. Begad! I also attached a Nomex® chute protector from Pratt Hobbies. Arrr! Blimey! I also use a few pieces o' Estes waddin' t' insure no damage t' t' chute. Ya scallywag! I use a 24" nylon chute.

1st flight was with a F24-4W reload. Well, blow me down! It Came off t' pad nice and straight and went about 1000'. Begad! Ejection was perfect at 4 secs. Well, blow me down! Begad! and it landed under t' 24" chute with no damage or scratches what so ever.

2nd flight (or should I say almost) T' tail slide down and wedged it on t' stand off makin' it stick t' t' pad. Blimey! No damage but would use a used motor case on t' bottom o' t' rod next time t' prevent this from happening.

3rd flight. Avast! Aye aye! Blimey! Disaster struck! Blimey! Disaster struck! Blimey! I accidentally loaded and E18 instead o' t' F39-4T. Nay enough initial thrust and was lazy off t' pad causin' it t' weather cock and end up as a ballistic into t' ground sideways. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Nose cone damaged by tearin' out t' bottom and also destroyed t' top 9" o' t' airframe (right t' t' top o' where t' fins attach t' t' frame). Begad! Arrr! Blimey! All fins survived and where slighted chipped in small places.

I guess that teaches me t' mark and bag every reload kit and nay rush t' get that last launch in. 

It's been along 3 months since I started rebuildin' it, but t' HAWK is all fixed and ready t' fly again. It looks just as if nothin' had ever happened. 

CONSTRUCTION: (Ratin' 4) 

Upgrade t' fiberglass airframe, ya bilge rat, fins, me hearties, me hearties, and boat tail. Begad! (I would next time) Add epoxy t' fill paper nose attachment and use finish coatin' t' smooth. (made is VERY durable and easy t' shape) Add stiffener t' inner tail cone tube. (added protection)

FLIGHT/RECOVERY: (Ratin' 4) 

Upgrade t' 1/2" elastic shock cord, 6' long and make paper anchor bigger. Begad! Use Nomex® chute protector. Use 24" nylon chute instead o' 18" mylar supplied.

Motors--
SU motors
E15-4
E30-4
Reload
F24-4W (works best)
F39-4T

DO NOT USE Estes D OR E engines as they will make it crash even in very light wind!

OVERALL: (Ratin' 4)

For under $30 it's a good kit even with t' need for t' 24" chute, upgradin' t' shock cord, and havin' t' make your own decals. Ahoy! Arrr! I plan on buyin' more o' them in t' future. Avast! Currently I've almost finished t' Standard AGM-78 which I've upgraded t' a 29mm motor, arrr, fiberglassed entirely, arrr, and used many HP techniques. 

Flights

Comments:

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M.W. (September 1, 2000)
I built and flew this model exactly per the kit instructions with stunning results. Maiden flight was conducted during a model rocket club meet, on a calm sunny day on an D12-3. Subsequent flight was on an E15-4 and third flight on the day was on an E30-7. The model suffered very minor nose damage which was easily repaired. All flights went straight up, parachute ejection was flawless. Very nice descent. Maximum altitude on the E30 was roughly 800 feet. Very easy to visually track the model. I painted the model olive green and used vinyl decals. Many nice comments from club members regarding the completed product.
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E.C. (January 1, 2001)
It truly was a very nice kit requiring attention to detail, and some challenging techniques. I think, as Chuck Barndt said, that a D or E would be sufficient if the rocket is built stock. I too modified the kit, not because the kit is bad, it's just the way I do things. I've added a longer motor tube and an additional centering ring, a 1/4 inch brass launch lug, a shock cord mount design stolen from Loc, a 3/8 by 16 foot shock cord, a fiberglass covered balsa nose cone tip, a nylon parachute, and made the bottom, outside corners of the fins out of 1/8 inch ply for extra durability. I, like Chuck Barndt, enjoy work that makes something exceptional, and I think this is a great mid-powered rocket, whether it is built stock or modified to your own liking.

It looks like you [the writer] have a rocket to be proud of. I just think that the warning in all caps pertains to your rocket only rather than the majority built. I'm not saying it's a bad thing, but due to your reinforcements, your rocket probably came out heavier than the majority, so, I believe that it is ok, for the lighter, stock Army Hawk's made to fly on D and E motors.

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