| Construction Rating: | starstarstarstar_borderstar_border |
| Flight Rating: | starstarstarstarstar |
| Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
| Manufacturer: | Cosmodrome Rocketry ![]() |
Brief:
This model is a HPR 1/35 scale model o' t' Vostok launcher used t' put t' first man, me hearties, ya bilge rat, Yuri Gagarin, in orbit in 1961. Blimey! T' model is powered by a H242 reloadable motor and recovers in two pieces via parachutes
Construction:
This kit is intended for t' craftsman builder. Arrr! Blimey! While each step is nay excessively difficult, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, experience with various buildin' techniques is required t' achieve a good finished model.
I ordered this kit almost a year ago directly from Cosmodrome. Ya scallywag! Blimey! There were some difficulties gettin' t' kit (Cosmodrome is a cottage type industry run out o' Mike Kruger's home) but eventually it arrived. Begad! Blimey! Everythin' be packed in a double plastic bag similar t' an Estes style kit. There are a lot o' parts with this kit. Begad! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Almost 160 pcs. Blimey! Blimey! I opened t' bags up and did an inventory. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Everythin' but t' shock cord was there. Ahoy! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! I didn't sweat this too much since I have plenty o' elastic for other scratch build projects. Aye aye! Blimey! And considerin' t' ordeal I went through t' get this kit I figured it be easier t' provide it myself than try t' call Mike and get him t' send some.
T' body tubes are typical kraft type tubes. Begad! They look exactly like LOC/Precision tubes. Blimey! T' nose cones were balsa and probably made by BMS. Well, blow me down! Centerin' rings are also included. They are 1/8" A/C ply and nicely cut. Aye aye! T' fins were pre-cut 1/8" A/C ply. Decals were minimal and self-stick clear label type material with t' letterin' on them. These were most likely done up on a computer then printed. T' wood for makin' t' various struts and details be o' good quality. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! (bass & balsa) There be also music wire (.040 dia) pre-cut for t' various antennae details. Begad! Aye aye! Two parachutes were provided (24" & 35") they are rip stop nylon. Avast, me proud beauty! They are purple in color. I could nay tell who manufactured them since they did nay look familiar t' me. Well, blow me down! They were already assembled with shroud lines attached. There were posterboard pieces supplied as well for t' various shrouds and transition sections. Begad! Patterns t' make these were also included.
T' instructions were several pages long with computer drawn pictures for many o' t' steps. Ahoy! T' instructions were very basic. Begad! I had t' read them several times through and study t' pictures carefully t' make sure I understood what was intended. Begad! I would nay call them t' best but they were adequate. Begad! Aye aye! This is where havin' built a few scratch built rockets comes in handy.
There was also a 10oz lead fishin' weight provided t' glue in t' nose cone t' achieve t' proper CG. Ya scallywag! Arrr! This rocket is designed t' use scale fins only. Avast! There are no clear plastic fins or removable fins for flyin' only. Begad! T' model MUST have this nose weight installed t' fly stable.
I built this kit pretty much per t' instructions. I will hi-light some o' t' things t' keep in mind and some improvements I made.
Paper transitions are easy t' do but they have some drawbacks. A few o' them for me are finishin' and durability. Well, blow me down! I decided t' 'glass' t' paper shrouds and transitions on this model. Avast! I used Z-poxy finishin' resin and 3/4oz glass cloth. Begad! T' weight gain is minimal and I fill t' weave o' t' cloth with lite-weight spackle and sand. Well, blow me down! Ready for paint then. Begad! With this model thar are six paper shrouds t' make. Needless t' say this is time consuming. Well, blow me down! Basically I did all t' steps where I needed t' make t' shrouds and assemble them. Begad! I got all me parts fit and gaps/mismatches filled and sanded smooth. Ya scallywag! T' secret t' a good glass jod is t' prepare t' surface underneath. Ya scallywag! Arrr! A bilge-suckin' prep will show through.
First, shiver me timbers, I built t' strap on boosters completely and glued on t' nose cones. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! This deviates from t' instructions. Aye aye! They have you put t' cones on last after t' boosters are glued t' t' main body. Ya scallywag! This didn't seem right t' me and makes finishin' a lot harder. Ya scallywag! Once t' cones were glued on and t' boosters were ready I glassed them all at t' same time. Begad! Then I glassed t' shrouds on t' main body. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! With all t' glassin' done I could fill and sand everythin' at once. Ya scallywag! Plus I would only have t' make up one batch o' resin and have less waste. Ahoy! Begad! Somethin' else I did was make up details o' t' booster hold down devices on t' main body tube. Blimey! Ahoy! I had several scale resources and I made these pieces up from balsa and sheet styrene. Aye aye! They add a little bit more t' t' overall model and were nay hard t' make.
T' next interestin' area be t' interstage truss frame. Begad! Ahoy! This is made up o' an octagon ply rin' and wood dowels. Avast! Arrr! T' truss is nay load bearing, matey, however. Aye aye! At t' base o' t' upper payload section thar be a centerin' rin' epoxied into t' end o' t' body tube.
T' short bottom tube o' t' upper section, where t' coupler tube is, shiver me timbers, also has a ply centerin' rin' epoxied in place. A long shanked screw eye with a nylon spacer tube separates these two sections. Avast! This screw eye is what provides t' load bearin' capacity. Ya scallywag! T' truss work adds a little but nay much. Aye aye! T' octagon rin' is spaced from t' upper body centerin' rin' usin' modeler shaped balsa pieces. Ya scallywag! There are two markin' guides included t' mark where t' truss pieces are supposed t' line up t' on both t' upper section and t' lower section. Ahoy! Blimey! By takin' your time and makin' sure each piece fits will insure a good lookin' part o' t' model.
T' rest o' t' model assembles pretty straight forward after that. Arrr! Aye aye! There are conduits that run t' length o' t' main body but they are rectangular in cross area and made from balsa. Very easy t' do. Begad! T' Cross support frames at t' base o' t' booster are made from bass wood pieces. There is a diagram in t' instructions on t' size and shape t' make these. Well, blow me down! These should be finished separately since they will be installed after t' individual pieces are painted and then assembled. Ya scallywag! There are various antennae and other details on this model. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! These are all made with wire and balsa. Begad! Avast! You will have t' cut and shape most o' these pieces yourself but thar are pictures provided and all t' cuts are straight with no tricky curves and such.
This model is very similar in construction technique t' T' Vostok in Peter Alway's 'T' Art o' Scale Model Rocketry'
Finishing:
This model needs t' be painted in pieces before assembly. Begad! Blimey! T' four strap on boosters are painted individually as be t' main body and payload section. Begad! Once everythin' was prepped I sprayed a white primer coat and check for blemishes. Arrr! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! When I be satisfied with that I gave all t' pieces a coat o' gloss white. Aye aye! After t' white was dry I masked off for t' green. Begad! I used a leaf green made by krylon. Arrr! Olive drab seemed too dark. In reality t' whole rocket was a green color. Avast, me proud beauty! T' white you see in pictures is actually frost from t' liquid oxygen in a fully fueled rocket. Well, me bucko, blow me down! After t' green dried I painted t' lower portion o' t' booster silver per t' instructions.
Around t' base o' each booster is a silver area as well. Avast, me proud beauty! This area on t' real rocket was stainless steel t' protect it from heat from t' central body motors. It is actually shiny and most silver paints are dull in finish. For this area I used self adhesive mylar I purchased from a local craft store. Arrr! T' kit includes a paintin' template for this area and I used this t' make me mylar pieces. Aye aye! They really add a nice touch.
Once everythin' is painted it is time for final assembly. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Blimey! T' main body has some ply supports for t' booster motors. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! They fit thru slots you cut in t' boosters and provide good support. Well, blow me down! Also keep in mind t' aft truss supports for t' boosters. Begad! This truss surrounds t' main body tube and needs t' be assembled around it before you attach t' boosters. Ahoy! Blimey! Do nay glue this trusswork at this time. It will hold together via friction fit durin' assembly. Ya scallywag! Blimey! This will allow you ti get everythin' lined up. Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! I epoxied each booster individually. Begad! I only put epoxy on t' inside o' t' booster tubes and did nay surface glue then t' t' main body. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Blimey! This is nay necessary. Begad! I aligned everythin' carefully as I went and ended up with a straight assembly.
Construction Rating: 3 out o' 5
Flight:
This model needs a high power motor. Well, blow me down! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! You need t' be Level 1 certified. Begad! T' only motor recommended is an Aerotech H242-S This motor will give this rocket a quick shot off t' pad and get it flyin' right away t' keep it stable. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Remember this is a heavy rocket and it has a lot o' cross sectional area t' push through t' air. Aye aye! In order t' run a simulation I needed t' find t' total cross sectional area. Avast! I summed up all t' sections and found t' area for a single diameter (about 6.375") I ran this on WinRoc and it gave me a projected altitude o' 800' with a recommended delay o' 6 seconds. Ahoy! Well, matey, blow me down! T' H242 is perfect for this bird.
Per t' plans, motor retention on this model used a threaded rod epoxied t' t' side o' t' motor tube. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! After motor installation place a washer and nut on and you are done. This method is adequate and works well. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! However, shiver me timbers, I prefer another set up usin' API's motor retainer. Ya scallywag! Begad! I admit they are pricey but they are slick and easy t' install and use. Well, blow me down! Just bond t' threaded base t' t' exposed part o' t' motor tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! Install your motor, me hearties, screw on t' cap and you are done.
I also ran this model through a descent rate calculator. T' 24" 'chute provided for t' payload section was fine. However, t' 35" 'chute for t' booster was marginal at best. Aye aye! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! T' descent rate was much higher than I liked t' insure a damage free recovery. Begad! I opted instead t' use a 54" TopFlite parachute for t' booster. Begad! Stuffin' this 'chute though would require creative packing. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! T' body tube for t' parachutes is nay all that big. You really need t' know how t' pack your chutes right t' insure a good recovery with this rocket. Begad! For waddin' I used shredded paper insulation. Begad! No problems her. Ahoy! I just got some Nomex® cloth 'chute protectors and will be usin' these in t' future.
First flight day be overcast but no wind. Ahoy! Nay ideal but nay bilge-suckin' either. Arrr! T' no wind was perfect. Avast! At motor ignition t' rocket leapt off t' pad like a shot. No slow lift off here. Aye aye! I boosted straight with no spin or wobble. Avast! I arced over and be at a flat trajectory when t' ejection charge went off and both chutes deployed perfectly. Avast, me proud beauty! T' two pieces drifted down gently and recovered with no damage.
Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5
Summary :
I have flown this rocket several times now. It is always a crowd pleaser. I get many questions and good comments about t' rocket.
Some PROs for this kit:
Some CONs:
Overall I was very pleased with this kit. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! It is a nice sized model with just t' right amount o' detail. Ahoy! Granted I did a few extra things but this kit really is intended for those who have some experience beyond even an Estes level 4 kit. Blimey! Well, blow me down! If you are a HPR modeler and would like t' challenge o' a scale kit, this might be t' one for you.
Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5
Great review! I really like bein' able t' point people t' places that give help with this kit. Two clarifications: 1) t' nose cones were nay made by BMS, I make all me cones myself. Avast! Ya scallywag! 2) t' parachutes were also made by myself (or me wife). Ya scallywag! As with me other kits, t' instructions are bein' updated for clarity and simplification (and in t' case o' t' Vostok, me bucko, some corrections). - Mike Kruger (Cosmodrome Rocketry)
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K.B. (January 1, 2000)