Brief:
This is a 29mm aluminum motor casing, arrr, ya bilge rat, for motors with 40-120 Newton Seconds total impulse (rangin' from E t' G). Ahoy! Begad! It is a bit pricey at $50 for t' casing, but a G motor costs only $10-12 instead o' $20 or more for a single use motor o' t' same total impulse.

Construction:
T' casin' is only three pieces, a long casing, a forward closure, and an aft closure, me bucko, matey, both o' which screw into place in t' casing.

A reload kit though, matey, me bucko, contains many different parts however. Ahoy! Each reload kit has t' followin' parts:

• 1 nozzle
• 2 29mm x 1/16" rubber O-rings
• 1 liner tube
• 1 propellant slug
• 1 spacer tube
• 1 forward insulator ring
• 1 delay liner
• 1 delay spacer (for motors with delays shorter 10)
• Delay material
• 1 thick O-rin'
• Ejection charge
• Copperhead igniter

Construction is quick and simple. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Just follow t' reload assembly instructions carefully and you shouldn't have a problem. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! T' first step is t' apply grease on each O-ring, matey, and push t' smaller one into t' front o' t' forward closure. Aye aye! Put t' larger diameter O-rings aside. Ahoy! Then slide t' delay material into t' delay liner and push t' spacer into place under it (and don't get grease on t' delay assembly). Blimey! T' spacer part should be face down. Well, arrr, blow me down! Put this assembly aside. Blimey! Then take t' propellant slug, t' spacer tube, arrr, and t' liner tube, shiver me timbers, and put t' spacer and propellant into t' liner. Ahoy! T' only step I did nay like is for E and F engines maskin' tape needs t' be put at t' top o' each propellant slug so that t' igniter does nay go all t' way inside t' engine. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! Put this assembly inside t' main casing. Ahoy! Put t' insulator rin' on top and then a greased 29mm O-ring. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Screw t' forward closure on top o' this tightly. Arrr! Then, matey, me hearties, flip it over and place t' nozzle into t' motor. Avast! Put t' last O-rin' on t' bottom o' t' nozzle and screw t' aft closure into position. Well, blow me down! It should be tight. Begad! Next, take t' delay charge and put it on top o' t' forward closure so that it snaps into position. Aye aye! Insert t' igniter and either tape it or used t' supplied nozzle cover t' hold it in position. Well, blow me down! I prefer t' cover piece, although that requires a small vent hole t' be cut in it. Blimey! Avast! Construction is extremely simple and will work if instructions are followed and all t' rings are in t' right position.

Finishing:
No finishin' had t' be done for this, ya bilge rat, but it comes all black with t' words Aerotech Aerospace painted in gold on t' side, me hearties, me bucko, and t' aft closure is gold.

Flight:
T' countdown for your first reload will be t' longest 5 seconds o' your life. My first flight be me LOC Onyx on an E23-5T. Begad! It lit up almost instantly and shot off t' pad t' around 600 feet. Begad! Ya scallywag! Perfect flight and recovery. Avast, me proud beauty! After waitin' a few minutes for it t' cool off, which was much faster than I expected, me hearties, me hearties, I unloaded t' engine by simply screwin' both closures off and pushin' out t' assembly. Arrr! I cleaned out t' inside o' t' casings and closures with Wet Wipes and then dried them with paper towels. Next I loaded a F40-4W for me LOC Forte, which I call t' Pirate Rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! It flew, matey, matey, but only after about 4 tries t' light it with a Copperhead igniter. It finally lifted off and flew perfectly. Begad! T' chute didn't open, arrr, so it came down hard. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! T' nozzle be pushed up inside t' casing, but thar be no damage t' either t' rocket or casing. Well, blow me down! T' third flight o' t' day was a G64-4W in me LOC-IV. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! This is a great motor this rocket. Blimey! Ahoy! It lit on its first attempt and roared off t' pad.

Summary:
This is great system t' save loot on mid power engines. Begad! Just follow t' instructions and it should work. Make sure all t' O-rings are in t' right place and nothin' will go wrong. Ya scallywag! People always talk about all t' failures they have with RMS motors, but they are easy t' avoid if all t' directions are followed.

Overall Rating: 5 out o' 5