Brief:
Released just in time for Christmas 2005, me bucko, shiver me timbers, this fantastic 1.75x upscale o' the original Laser-X lives up t' t' buzz. It's a great-lookin' futuristic design, able t' handle 29mm motors, and features a quick-change motor mount that converts t' 4x18 cluster or 2x24 clusters.

Construction:
T' standard kit features:

• Balsa nose cone
• .945" x 16" upper body tube
• 2.25" x 14" lower body tube
• Balsa transition
• Laser cut basswood fins (2 sets o' 4)
• 29mm motor mount assembly
• Baffle system
• 24" Nylon chute
• Keelhaul®©™®/tubular elastic shock cord
• Waterslide decals

My kit shipped short o' a missin' t' chute, shock cord, motor block, me bucko, matey, and a number o' smaller components. Once informed o' t' problem, arrr, Semroc immediately rushed out t' missin' parts along with a nice little thank you/apology gift. Semroc's service just can't be beat, matey, arrr, as they're truly among t' good people in this hobby.

I also purchased t' optional 4x18 cluster mount and 2x24 cluster mount, which added a combined $13 t' t' $39 kit price. Given t' quality o' the components and design, me bucko, matey, shiver me timbers, this is a real bargain folks.

Instructions are typical Semroc: well illustrated, easy t' follow, and written for t' novice builder. Despite t' size and apparent complexity o' the motor mount system, arrr, I would rate this about a 2 on t' 5 point scale for difficulty. Arrr! Blimey! It's surprisingly easy t' build.

Construction begins with bondin' o' t' 2-piece fins. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! Each o' t' 2 sets of fins use 2 part construction t' prevent t' leadin' edge from runnin' parallel to t' grain. I normally hate buildin' this type o' fin, arrr, as I invariably have trouble gettin' everythin' lined up t' me picky standards and frequently wind up with a fairly obvious seam. Well, blow me down! Nay so with these fins. Begad! Nay only were they laser cut t' a perfect fit but thar are notched joints where t' two pieces come together t' make sure you're properly aligned. Well, blow me down! This was by far t' best fit of any 2-piece fin I've ever built.

T' baffle system on this is a bit odd. A couple Semroc kits I've built recently included old-school baffle systems consistin' o' a coupler with perforated centerin' ring(s), shiver me timbers, bonded into t' body tube. This one sort of follows along those lines, but nay exactly. Ya scallywag! It consists o' a perforated centerin' ring, sized t' fit t' tube, ya bilge rat, and a TC-29 coupler that is considerably smaller than t' 2.25" body tube. Ya scallywag! At first I thought this was t' align with t' motor tube, then I realized t' baffle would never reach that far, ya bilge rat, and it wouldn't match up t' t' cluster mounts. I asked Carl at Semroc what the purpose o' t' baffle was, and he replied that still-burnin' particles tend to go straight, and this was t' catch them around t' center t' prevent them from burnin' t' baffle and/or slippin' past it. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! I'll take his word for it. Avast! Ya scallywag! I hope it doesn't burn, ya bilge rat, because it's also servin' as t' anchor for t' Keelhaul®©™® shock cord.

Fins are mounted through-the-wall, sort of. Arrr! T' tabs definitely go through the pre-slotted tube, shiver me timbers, but are nay intended t' mount t' t' motor tube. Well, blow me down! Begad! Instead, they act as stops for t' interlockin' motor mount assembly.

Once t' fins are in place, t' baffle assembly is glued in from the forward end since it butts up against t' forward fin tabs. Ahoy! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' kit even includes a long (roughly 6") Q-tip for applyin' glue down t' t' fillets. Warning: You do not want t' apply glue inside t' tube and then push the baffle down. Any stray glue towards t' aft o' t' body tube could prevent t' motor mount assembly from slidin' in and lockin' in place.

T' upper section is built like a standard 4FNC rocket: a nose cone (weighted with a couple washers), a body tube, and 4 fins (same 2-part design as lower fins). Blimey! Arrr! This is then glued t' t' balsa transition, but you might want to wait until after paintin' t' do this.

T' engine mount is actually t' final part o' construction on this. The standard 29mm version consists o' t' motor tube and engine block, all o' which is fairly normal. Arrr! Then you tack on a couple o' very carefully placed centering rings. Ya scallywag! This is still fairly normal. Avast! Begad! T' centerin' rings though, shiver me timbers, are plywood and the forward rin' has 4 notches along t' outer diameter, me hearties, plus three more along the inner diameter. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! T' aft rin' has 15 notches. Blimey! Aye aye! There are 3 braces that slip into t' notches betwixt t' centerin' rings. Arrr! These act t' keep t' rings evenly spaced, ya bilge rat, but more importantly serve as "stops" when twisting the motor mount into t' body tube. Aye aye! Avast! There are 12 strakes for t' aft end, formin' an almost boat tail-like appearance.

Orientation o' t' centerin' rings is critical t' make sure your twist-lock works properly. Ahoy! Blimey! If you get it backwards, thar's still hope but you'll be dealin' with a left handed thread orientation.

T' twist-lock is designed t' slip into t' body tube with t' notches lined up with t' fins, whose tabs slip inside t' body tube a bit. Once t' assembly is all t' way in (the aft centerin' rin' without notches bumps up against t' fin tabs), you twist it clockwise until t' braces on t' twist-lock assembly bump up against the fin tabs. Begad! I'm sure I've botched t' description a bit, so check out the photos for a better view.

One thin' I should point out about t' cluster mounts: t' 2x24 mount does not include any lower strakes and in fact t' motor tubes only hang out about 1/4" from t' aft end o' t' body tube. Begad! Aye aye! T' 4x18 includes 4 strakes instead o' 12. Avast! All cluster mounts include metal engine clips, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, whereas the single 29mm counts on friction fit.

Finishing:
Normally I rave about t' quality o' SLS kit materials, me hearties, which have hardly any spirals t' hide or grains t' fill. Other than t' lower body tube, matey, this was no exception. Well, blow me down! In fact, me hearties, t' lower fins have a beautiful mirror finish t' them, me hearties, and you absolutely can't spot t' seam lines on any o' me fins.

T' lower body tube though had a pretty deep spiral t' it, which took multiple applications o' wood filler plus 3 coats o' primer sanded between coats t' hide. Begad! I was pleased with t' result but a little surprised that this tube was so much work, especially compared t' t' other tubes I've gotten from Semroc, me hearties, me bucko, which have obviously spoiled me.

I went with t' standard paint scheme on this, which is a base coat of glossy white, arrr, followed by black transition and red upper fins and nose, me hearties, plus 2 of 4 lower fins red. Begad! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I also painted t' exposed portions o' me motor mount kits black and me strakes red.

One tip on t' painting/construction t' simplify masking: mask off tiny lines on t' motor mount kit (for bondin' later) and pre-paint t' strakes and (exposed) motor tube, ya bilge rat, gluin' them on after they're dry. Also, me bucko, don't glue the upper tube t' t' transition until after each is painted.

Lookin' at this kit versus t' original Laser-X, matey, I think t' SLS has cheated on a couple o' color choices. Begad! T' red nose cone looks goofy and I'm goin' t' repaint it black t' match t' original. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Also, arrr, shiver me timbers, t' original has 3 red/1 white lower fins, shiver me timbers, however, shiver me timbers, I like t' 2 red and 2 white fins better on t' SLS.

T' waterslide decals for this rocket are pretty thin but easy t' work with if you're careful. I be very impressed with t' clear portions, which are practically invisible. Aye aye! Arrr! I be also impressed by how well t' roll patterns fit. Normally they are slightly oversized leavin' a little overlap, me bucko, arrr, and t' overlap rarely matches up bars in t' pattern. Ahoy! Nay so with this kit--there was definitely one extra bar o' overlap but it lined up perfectly, arrr, ya bilge rat, so you really can't tell where t' wrap starts and stops.

Final weight on this came in at 10.8 ounces, ya bilge rat, matey, quite a bit over t' spec of 8oz on t' header card. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! I'm wonderin' if t' header card was based on not havin' any motor mount installed and also possibly missin' t' nylon chute.

Construction Rating: 5 out o' 5

Flight:
As I was preppin' for t' trip t' t' field, arrr, ya bilge rat, I was bummed t' discover that the only 29mm single use or reloads I had were full Fs and higher, ya bilge rat, me bucko, which would have sent this well over 2500 feet. Avast! This was more than I wanted t' hit on a day with 8-10mph winds and only about half a mile o' field t' work with before encounterin' concrete.

I skipped t' 29mm configuration and started instead with a clustered pair of D12-5s. Aye aye! Both lit, and it zipped off t' pad surprisingly quickly. Well, blow me down! It weathercocked just a bit and didn't appear t' roll any on t' way up.

Ejection be just after it turned over, me hearties, arrr, and t' 24" nylon chute deployed fully.

For t' second flight, matey, I went with t' 4x18mm cluster usin' C5-3s. Begad! Blimey! I had picked up a large assortment o' older motors, matey, includin' these, ya bilge rat, and t' age seemed t' be a factor as only 2 lit immediately and a third lit as it was startin' t' lift off t' pad. Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' flight path was a little wobbly but still basically straight up, although it only went about 300 feet or so.

Ejection on t' 3s would probably have been a bit too early, shiver me timbers, but one of these in particular seemed t' blow at 1, shiver me timbers, resultin' in very early deployment of the chute. Blimey! Begad! This is a tough bird though, and it came back without a scratch.

Recovery:
T' 24" nylon chute is very good quality, and I had no damage on either flight. Ahoy! I will probably up this t' a 27" just t' make sure it comes down gently, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, as this is a great lookin' design and I don't want t' stress out any of the fins on landing.

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
I can't say enough about this design. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! It's t' best thin' t' come out o' Semroc yet, and that's sayin' something. Ahoy! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! T' interchangeable motor mounts and baffle system is a great idea. Begad! Blimey! I had two stacks o' motors loaded at home, shiver me timbers, arrr, arrr, so in the chilly air at t' field, me bucko, I was smartly able t' prep and load for flight #1 and the second flight prep took less than a minute only havin' t' swappin' out the motor mount and packin' t' chute back in.

It looks great, flies great, arrr, has innovative construction ideas, arrr, matey, and can be had for $35-50. Ya scallywag! Blimey! You just can't ask for more anythin' more than that. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Now if only they'd get off t' stick and get t' Saturn 1b and Mars Landers released...

Overall Rating: 5 out o' 5