A couple of months ago, shiver me timbers, Charlie, arrr, t' owner o' HobbyTown USA in Brea, arrr, CA told me he was bringin' in PML kits I started gettin' excited. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! I told him t' hold on t' a Pterodactyl Jr. Avast! Blimey! for me (See Kerry's review o' t' kit). Begad! Blimey! When they came in, I opened t' shippin' box for Charlie and pulled out t' Pterry (sorry Kerry). Begad! Blimey! I found t' kit easy t' build and very sturdy. Arrr! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I liked it so much I went out and bought a PML Small Endeavor kit.

T' Small Endeavor is also a straight forward PML kit. Avast, me proud beauty! If you have ever built a kit by this company you will know what I mean. Ya scallywag! It features six precut G10 fins, arrr, pre-slotted Quantum tubing, a very sturdy 38mm engine mount, me hearties, piston ejection, tubular nylon shock cord, matey, and a 30 inch ripstop nylon chute with spill hole. ( I can personally attest t' t' strength o' these kits as last week t' Pterry forgot her ejection charge and tried t' drill for water in the nearby dry riverbed. Well, blow me down! T' only damage was a ruined paint job and a loose fin).

First thin' I did, me hearties, arrr, after checkin' t' make sure that all parts were there, was t' sand t' entire Quantum tube inside and out in t' fin can area t' make sure t' epoxy would adhere properly. I then test fit t' Motor mount and fins to make sure everythin' fit together well. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! I built t' motor mount/ shock cord assembly per t' instructions, with no modifications. Ya scallywag! (To protect t' shock cord from ejection, me hearties, I will put a bit o' waddin' on top o' t' motor tube before loadin' t' piston). Ahoy! Begad! Make sure you don't glue t' aft centerin' rin' on at this time.  At this point, shiver me timbers, I installed t' "T" nuts for the motor retention system. Arrr! I used 6/32 threads as this is standard for most o' my high power models. I have two sets o' t' Giant Leap retention systems and I share them amongst t' different models. Ya scallywag! By installin' t' nuts now, matey, I can screw in t' cap screws now, this makes pullin' t' rin' out much easier later when reinforcin' t' fin joints on t' inside o' t' tube and on t' motor tube. Begad! Begad!

Before epoxyin' t' fins in place you need t' prepare them. First, arrr, sand the root edge area t' makin' sure it is clean, smooth and straight. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Make sure you wipe any dust off. Ahoy! Ahoy! Blimey! Rough up t' area were t' fin will contact t' main airframe too. G10 fins are very thin, matey, me bucko, some people will sand a leadin' edge, me bucko, arrr, but I just rounded t' leadin' and trailin' edges. Again, ya bilge rat, before epoxying, make sure ALL areas are dust free. Well, blow me down! I have discovered that Epoxy, me hearties, fiberglass and plastic shavings and dust LOVE t' stick t' surfaces due t' static. Begad! Blimey! A damp towel usually will dissipate t' static charge and clean t' dust off. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey!

With t' motor mount and forward centerin' rin' epoxied in place, and t' aft rin' in place but nay glued, it is time t' epoxy t' fins in place. I cut a jig out o' thin card board (see t' illustration). Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! I glued each fin in place one at a time usin' 5 minute epoxy, makin' sure t' jig is holding the fin perfectly straight.  After t' epoxy had set, I pulled t' rear rin' out and applied generous Fillets on t' motor tube fin joint and the inside airframe fin joint usin' 30 minute epoxy. Avast, me proud beauty! Finally, me hearties, ya bilge rat, I epoxied t' rear rin' in place makin' sure t' retention screws did nay line up with t' fins.

One o' t' biggest changes was in t' Piston assembly, matey, shiver me timbers, I have heard about short pistons jammin' so I replaced t' 2 inch piston sleeve with a 4 inch sleeve. Well, blow me down! Arrr! (As you can see in t' picture, you may also notice t' rear centerin' rin' with "T" nuts and screws ready t' be installed. The fin jig sits t' one side.)

After installin' t' recovery harness, matey, in is time t' prepare for Paint. Begad! I sanded t' entire model with extra fine sand paper first, then two coats o' Krylon Gray Sandable Primer sandin' in between. Well, blow me down! I like t' give my projects nicknames from good books and this one is named "Rainbow Six" so each o' t' six fins would be a different color o' t' rainbow. Ahoy! I gave t' entire airframe a coat o' Gloss White Krylon, matey, wet sanded then another coat o' white. Finally, ya bilge rat, each fin received a different color. Begad! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! After a quick buff, I put on t' stickers and three coats o' clear and she's ready to go.

I'm goin' t' put her up a 29mm reload t' first time, we'll see how she does. Ahoy! Blimey!

I wonder if I can talk Kerry into a Drag race o' "bullet proof" Pterodactyls, ya bilge rat, then our Small Endeavors?

Brief:
T' Small Endeavour is a simple single stage rocket designed for G - I motors. It is based on PML's Quantum Tube, has a 38mm motor mount, shiver me timbers, uses piston ejection, and sports a cool split-fin design.

Construction:
Parts list:
1 - Pre-slotted Quantum Tube airframe
1 - Nose Cone
3 - Lower G-10 fins
3 - Upper G-10 fins
1 - Piston subassembly, shiver me timbers, matey, ya bilge rat, including
1 - Phenolic piston body
1 - Nylon piston strap (~4 ft)
1 - Slotted plywood bulk plate
1 - Metal D-ring
1 - 30" ripstop nylon conical parachute
1 - 38mm x 10" phenolic motor tube
2 - 3/16" plywood centerin' rings
1 - Heavy elastic shock cord (~ 9 ft)
1 - 1/4" brass launch lug

T' Small Endeavour came packaged in a plastic bag. Avast! Blimey! I immediately checked that all t' parts were present and reviewed t' instructions. What struck me first was t' mirror-smooth finish on t' Quantum Tube. Begad! Blimey! It almost looks too good t' paint! Blimey!

As in many HPR kits, t' instructions are brief. In addition t' t' main instruction sheet, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, thar were individual instructions for t' piston subassembly, preparation o' t' Quantum Tube, and t' chute. Ya scallywag! T' piston instructions included an important discussion on t' amount o' black powder that should be used as an ejection charge. Well, blow me down! On t' down side, t' instructions should have addressed t' fit (snugness) o' t' piston. Begad! I have t' point out that PML provides a lot o' additional information on their WEB site (FAQs, specs, ya bilge rat, matey, motor selection charts, arrr, ya bilge rat, RockSim files) and has a support representative who monitors t' r.m.r. Begad! Ahoy! newsgroup. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! Anyone with web access can get answers to any construction or flight question. I promptly got an answer t' me piston question and have since learned that t' PML kits now include more info from the FAQ and identify t' web address. Ya scallywag! Blimey!

Out o' t' bag, t' nose cone and piston did nay fit into t' Quantum Tube. I sanded t' inner edge o' t' tube and they then fit snugly. Aye aye! Avast! T' CRs and fins fit perfectly. Avast!

I constructed t' MMT as noted in t' instructions except for t' following two tweaks. Blimey! I recessed t' front CR by 1" vs. Avast! Ya scallywag! t' 0.25" noted in the instructions. This way t' leadin' edge o' t' front fin tab rests against this CR. On t' aft CR, I added some small T-nuts for motor retention. Ya scallywag!

As noted in t' instructions, I sanded all areas that had t' be glued, includin' t' inner and outer fin fillets. I then installed t' MMT and fins pretty much per t' instructions. Begad! Avast! T' ensure their alignment, matey, I installed the upper and lower fins at t' same time. I clamped t' pairs o' fins together usin' a plastic ruler and two 3/8" binder clips. Begad! Begad! T' T-nuts provided an easy way t' remove t' aft CR, which be nay glued in until after t' fins (includin' inner fillets) are completed. Begad!

As mentioned earlier t' fit o' t' piston body be very snug. PML recommends that their pistons "should slide easily in or out with just a little push or pull". Ahoy! I sanded t' piston until I thought it met PML's criteria. However, shiver me timbers, t' only way t' know if I sanded it enough is t' try it. Begad! Avast!

I installed Blacksky rail guides in place o' t' provided brass lug. One of the rail guides is installed immediately above t' aft CR and t' other is immediately below t' forward CR.

Finishing:
While thinkin' about painting, me hearties, I noticed thar were no decals in me kit. The PML web site claimed that thar should have been so I shot an email off. Evidently, ya bilge rat, me kit was produced before t' decals were provided. Arrr! No problem - three days later they were here.

In preparation for finishing, arrr, me bucko, I wiped t' QT with rubbin' alcohol, shiver me timbers, lightly sanded it, and wiped it down a second time. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I also filled t' nosecone seams and t' flaws in me fillets with SuperFil from Shadow Composites. Well, blow me down! Blimey! SuperFil is a light epoxy filler that is very easy t' sand. Begad! Blimey! I used 3 coats o' Krylon white primer, me bucko, sandin' betwixt each coat, ya bilge rat, and two cans o' Testors Burgundy Purple Metal Flake applied in four thin coats.

T' self adhesive decals were nay easy t' install. In order t' fit the flames and t' "Small Endeavour" text as shown on t' PML web site, I had t' cut out t' clear decal material from betwixt t' outer legs o' the flame. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! Blimey! These outer legs had t' overlap t' fillets. Also, these decals really grab hold (this is probably a good thin' in t' long run). Begad! Blimey! I didn't get the last section where I wanted it. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Blimey! However, it wasn't too bad and since I was scared it would lift t' paint, I left it where it was.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
I couldn't use t' commercial motor clips that I already had because thar is not enough room betwixt t' motor mount and body tubes. Blimey! Instead, I fashioned a clip from coat hanger wire and some electrical bayonet-style terminal lugs. Well, blow me down! I place t' end o' t' wire through t' barrel o' t' lug and bend a 1/8" section at a 90 degree angle. Ya scallywag! I then bend t' foot o' t' lug t' opposite direction, make t' proper bends so t' wire conforms t' me Giant Leap 29mm - 38mm adapter with a SU G80 installed, me bucko, and repeat t' termination procedure at the other end. Aye aye! T' adapter had t' same shoulder dimensions as a RMS casing. This way t' retainer holds both a RMS casin' and a SU motor in t' adapter. This procedure doesn't always result in t' prettiest retainer, but is easy and has always worked for me.

T' maiden flight was on 3/10/2001 in Middletown, MD at t' NARHAMS launch (my thanks t' t' hosts!). It was quite windy so I opted for a G35-7 t' keep the flight low. Blimey! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! My home-made Igniterman igniter worked perfectly. T' Small Endeavour arched into t' wind and because o' t' trajectory, t' ejection was quite late. However, me bucko, shiver me timbers, t' recovery be perfect and thar wasn't a scratch on the rocket. Begad! T' piston worked fine despite me worries.

I plan t' fly it on a G80 next and then, matey, hopefully, a new H242 "Redeye" reload (turnin' blue while holdin' me breath). Blimey! Watch for updates in t' flight logs.

Recovery:
I decided t' keep t' strap elastic shock cord. Arrr! It is stronger than t' average elastic, it should nay come in contact with t' ejection gas, arrr, and t' rocket is not very heavy. I looped t' elastic over on itself about two inches and sewed it.

T' 30" conical panel chute is made o' heavy rip-stop nylon and has a large (5") spill-hole. It appears t' be o' above average quality for this size chute. Well, blow me down! I added an eyebolt t' t' nose cone and used quick-links t' connect the shock cord t' t' nose cone and piston. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Blimey! Finally, I used a heavy duty swivel that I obtained from Giant Leap t' connect t' chute t' t' shock cord. The added weight should nay be an issue on this rocket and t' recovery components are now removable.

As I said earlier, t' ejection on t' first flight was late. Ya scallywag! Although it was quite windy, matey, t' spill-hole in t' chute kept t' drift down. Well, blow me down! It appeared that a larger chute should be used, shiver me timbers, especially if t' terrain is rough.

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
Overall this rocket went together easily. T' QT and piston took a bit more work than t' other simple HPR kits that I've built, but that isn't necessarily a bad thing. Aye aye! Blimey! T' question is whether these items were worth t' effort. Arrr! The bottom line is that I don't think I have enough experience t' pass final judgment. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' QT provided a great finish, shiver me timbers, but I don't know how it will hold up over time. Begad! Blimey! T' piston worked for me, but I've only lit one motor in it. Nevertheless, here are t' PRO's and CON's o' this kit based on me experience to date:

PRO's:
T' kit used high quality components (sturdy NC, G10-fins, QT airframe). Begad! T' QT provided a great finish. Aye aye! Aye aye! Although t' instructions themselves could have been better, t' excellent online data and support more than made up for them. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! No waddin' needed, easy flight prep.

CON's (all minor issues):
Decals were missing, but they were easily obtained from PML. Piston instructions were unclear. Although t' online FAQ provides guidance, it is not perfectly clear as t' how snug t' fit should be. Aye aye! T' elastic shock cord - however, shiver me timbers, this is a common issue with every entry-level HPR kit I've built.

Overall Rating: 5 out o' 5