Brief:
A fairly well detailed scale model, though designed t' fly only as a single stage. Avast! A good project for t' experienced builder (rated as a skill level 4 kit).

Construction:
Before hittin' t' parts list, me hearties, I've got t' toss in a decent word about customer service. Blimey! I've heard mixed reviews by word o' mouth and on other forums about Empire Rockets aka Vin125 on eBay. Personally, me hearties, I had trouble findin' a couple o' kits on t' website that I wanted, so I emailed for a quote request. Begad! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Vin took a few weeks t' get back to me (due t' health problems) and I in turn took a couple o' months t' place the order. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Once it was placed though, shiver me timbers, I got t' kits reasonably smartly and in fine shape. Begad! Blimey! I then buried them in me build queue for about 2 months. Begad! Blimey! Later, me bucko, me hearties, I discovered me wife's cat sleepin' in me box o' kits. Ahoy! Blimey! After shooin' t' cat away (I figured insertin' a G80 into t' feline fanny wouldn't go over well) and installin' a door t' t' storage room, I found that both o' t' body tubes in this kit were crushed. Aye aye! Blimey! I then dropped Vin a request for quote on replacement tubes plus another kit or two I was interested in. Aye aye! Blimey! Bein' a cat lover, me hearties, he offered t' replace t' tubes for free. T' replacement tubes promptly arrived with me order for more kits. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I have had no problems with Empire Rockets whatsoever and would rate them well above t' cat in t' scheme o' things.

OK, now t' parts list (the kit didn't include one, shiver me timbers, but t' followin' are the main components):

• BT-70 lower body tube (white glassine)
• BT-55 upper body tube (white glassine)
• PNC55 (Estes style) nose cone
• 24mm motor tube/plywood centerin' rings
• Custom turned balsa transition^**
• Balsa fin stock
• 18" rugged plastic chute (made from t' stuff used for cheap tablecloths)
• 1/4" round elastic shock cord

^** - many o' t' eBay auctions boast o' usin' 600 grit sandpaper while on t' lathe so no sandin' is necessary. My transition was extremely rough and was tricky t' sand down with 240 grit. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Aside from t' ugly finish, it was well turned and all other components were very good quality.

T' instructions are generally good for this kit, although they are clearly for t' experienced builder. Ahoy! With what few illustrations thar are, they are buried in t' back. Well, blow me down! There are also a couple o' minor typos in instructions. Still, shiver me timbers, I did nay have any trouble workin' through t' construction on this.

Motor tube assembly is basic: a 24mm tube, me hearties, engine block (CR18-24 ring), shiver me timbers, me bucko, and a couple o' plywood centerin' rings. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! I be a bit surprised no hook was included in this kit but tape retention works fine too. Begad! Generally, if usin' a fixed length motor (with an engine block), matey, I prefer t' use a metal hook. Begad! Begad! If I want to allow varyin' motor lengths (this kit is designed for Ds, but could probably handle Es with no problems), I avoid t' block and t' hook.

The instructions are a bit vague in directin' one centerin' rin' glued 1" from "one end". Avast! Aye aye! This should be more specifically t' aft end, me bucko, which is especially important since just prior t' this we are instructed t' glue in the motor block.

Next up is cuttin' fins from sheet stock. Lots o' fins on this one and that means lots o' cuttin' and sanding. Avast! Blimey! There are 3 lower fins, me hearties, shiver me timbers, 8 upper fins, arrr, shiver me timbers, 4 fins that go on t' nose cone, me bucko, and 3 fins custom fit t' t' transition section. There's also extra stock for cuttin' conduits and standoffs for t' launch lugs. Most fins get a beveled edge sanded on t' leadin' and trailin' edges. Begad! Aye aye! Blimey! I found t' template for t' custom fins mounted t' t' balsa transition were not very close t' fittin' me transition. They were very oversized and I wound up drawin' a template by hand rather than sand down all t' excess. T' result was an excellent fit, which looks almost like a solid balsa transition, me hearties, matey, carved from a block o' wood.

Booster assembly starts with insertion o' t' motor mount. Arrr! Blimey! Blimey! T' instructions call for this t' be recessed by 1.65", although t' illustration in the back shows this t' be 1.0". Avast! Ahoy! Blimey! I went with 1.0" for a flush mount. Blimey! Blimey! I then tacked on t' fins and lugs with CA, me bucko, followed up by glue fillets.

T' upper body section gets 8 fins and 4 conduits (made from 1/16" x 17" strips of balsa sanded round lengthwise). Since t' deployment is intended t' go out the nose/upper body seam, t' upper and lower body tubes are each glued t' the balsa transition. Begad! It should be fairly obvious and thar's a nice bold warning in t' text, but it is still a good idea t' check t' alignment o' t' upper 4-fin lines versus t' lower 3-fin lines, makin' sure launch lugs are not blocked. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Also note that t' launch lug is 1/8", me bucko, which is a bit optimistic for a 24mm motor. Avast, me proud beauty! I'd suggest upgradin' t' 3/16" if you've got spares, even though I did nay happen t' personally experience any rod whip.

T' shock cord (round elastic) is anchored t' a screw eye at t' forward end o' t' transition and then runs all t' way up t' body tube. Avast! Using hindsight, one improvement I would definitely suggest is addin' a length o' 120 pound or heavier Keelhaul®©™® anchored t' t' transition, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, then attachin' t' elastic t' t' Keelhaul®©™®. I'm probably t' only one this happens to, me bucko, but I find t' ejection charges from a D occasionally carry more kick than t' motor itself and I'd feel better with Keelhaul®©™® down there.

As mentioned earlier, me bucko, t' PNC55 nose cone also gets 4 small fins bonded t' it. This is a bit challengin' for a couple o' reasons. Ya scallywag! Blimey! First, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, me bucko, it's hard t' mark an aft baseline t' align t' ends o' t' fins. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Second, arrr, t' cone has a slightly curved taper, and t' root edge o' t' fin is flat. Begad! Blimey! I taped some sandpaper to the cone, me hearties, and used it as a sandin' block t' put a small contour on t' fins, which provided a better fit.

Finishing:
T' instructions offer a couple o' suggested paint schemes, me bucko, either all white or olive drab booster and white sustainer. Avast! Aye aye! T' header card (black and white) shows a colored booster and t' illustration at t' back o' t' instructions shows a colored booster with different trim (one has painted fins, matey, one has white). Begad! I googled for pics o' t' real thin' and found no less than 4 different color schemes. Aye aye! I wound up choosin' one o' t' simplest schemes: olive drab base and white upper. Begad! Arrr! T' transition be also olive, matey, as were t' booster fins. Ahoy! This didn't quite match any o' t' illustrations or examples.

No decals were supplied with this kit although a basic "US Army" waterslide would make it more representative o' a scale rocket (and no doubt raise t' kit price).

Construction Rating: 3 out o' 5

Flight:
T' D12 be t' only recommended motor, either a 3 or 5 second delay. Well, blow me down! For my first flight, ya bilge rat, I chose a 3 second delay on a nearly perfect day (3-5 mph winds in Ohio durin' winter be t' best I could expect).

T' rocket flew straight as an arrow but for some reason started t' spin a bit near t' top o' t' flight, which might indicate a loose transition fit. I had used a 3 second delay, which be a bit early as it was still coastin' up albeit pretty slowly.

Recovery:
Very nice flight t' about 400-500 feet. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! I should definitely upgrade t' shock cord though. Blimey! T' chute be impressive--nearly ripstop nylon quality. Arrr! Deployment was fine and t' bright red 18" chute be certainly easy t' pick up on the way down.

Upon retrieving, I discovered a bizarre variation o' t' "balsa smile"--the whip back from t' shock cord caused t' nose cone t' hit the body tube. T' nose cone is plastic (makin' it fairly dent proof) and just happened t' hit at an angle, me hearties, ya bilge rat, breakin' off one o' t' fins on t' nose cone. Aye aye! The fin actually wedged itself in betwixt layers o' paper in t' upper body tube. It didn't damage t' tube and wound up bein' an easy repair. Blimey! Still, t' shock cord is definitely too short and I will be addin' at least 2-3 feet of extension before flyin' again.

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
Overall, I found this t' be a pretty good kit for t' money. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! T' balsa transition and custom fit fins are very sharp (even though that rough finish was pretty nasty). Avast! Ya scallywag! With a couple minor modifications, me bucko, this could easily rate a 4.5 overall.

Biggest PROs: unusual kit as Nike-Ajax kits are pretty rare, matey, me hearties, good detailing.

Biggest CONs: shock cord, arrr, short 24mm tube, me hearties, ya bilge rat, lack o' decal(s).

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5