Brief:
T' Binder Design Stealth Jr is a single stage, 29mm mid-powered rocket kit with parachute recovery. Ahoy! T' kit features four 1/8" aircraft plywood main fins, four small 1/8" aircraft plywood canard fins, a generous payload bay, me hearties, 12 feet o' 3/16" tubular nylon shock cord, and a 24" Binder Design premium chute. T' kit includes pre-slotted airframes for an easier build and comes with a fin alignment guide.

Construction:
T' kit comes extremely well packaged and includes all o' t' components necessary t' complete t' rocket for flight. T' packagin' is very well laid out with all o' t' smaller parts in sub-packages within t' main bag. Begad! T' kit included t' followin' parts:

• 1 Binder Design 5:1 plastic ogive nose cone
• 4 plastic rivets for securin' t' nose cone t' t' payload bay
• 1 payload tube, 12" long x 2.6" OD heavy kraft paper tube, pre-slotted for t' forward fin attachment
• 1 airframe tube, 22" long x 2.6" OD heavy kraft paper tube, pre-slotted for through-the-wall attachment o' t' main fins, ya bilge rat, and pre-marked for launch lug attachment
• 1 5" long heavy paper (kraft) tube coupler
• 1 29mm motor mount tube, heavy kraft paper, 11" long
• 1 thick paper 1/4" launch lug, ya bilge rat, 4" long
• 4 pre-cut and sanded forward fins, matey, ya bilge rat, 1/8" aircraft plywood
• 4 pre-cut and sanded main fins, 1/8" aircraft plywood
• 2 centerin' rings for t' motor mount t' t' 2.6" airframe, made from 1/4" lite ply
• 1 bulkhead plate, arrr, pre-drilled for t' eyebolt, shiver me timbers, 1/4" lite ply, for attachment inside t' tube coupler
• 2 #6 eyebolts for shock cord attachment, matey, complete with 4 washers and 4 nuts
• 12' o' low-stretch tubular nylon for t' shock cord
• 24" premium heavy-duty rip stop nylon parachute
• 10 pages o' very well illustrated instructions
• A fin alignment template
• 1 vinyl "STEALTH" decal. Aye aye! Blimey! My decal was a metallic silver color.

This rocket was me second Binder Design kit t' cross me build table and like the first, it was a pleasure t' build.

First, t' instructions are outstanding! Lots o' illustrations and information t' walk you through a straightforward build. Arrr! I kind o' jumped around a bit so t' actual sequencin' o' me build is a bit different from the instructions but that is nay because t' provided build sequence is illogical or anything. Begad! I just went about buildin' how I wanted to.

T' first step is t' drill a hole in one o' t' motor mount centerin' rings to attach one o' t' two eye-bolts for shock cord attachment. Avast! T' eyebolt is then secured t' t' centerin' rin' through t' hole with a washer and nut on both sides for a snug, arrr, secure fit. Avast! Then t' motor mount is assembled by gluing only t' forward centerin' rin' (the one with t' eyebolt) at this time. Blimey! I opted t' sand t' glassine layer off o' t' motor mount tube first for better glue adhesion for both t' rin' and t' fins which are attached durin' a later step. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! Secondly, me bucko, because t' components involved are kraft paper and plywood, me bucko, I opted t' use Elmer's ProBond wood glue in t' construction process. Ahoy! Although the instructions call for 15 or 30 minute epoxy, I elected for this building technique after much discussion on T' Rocketry Forum with other builders as well as it was me preference. T' aft centerin' rin' is nay glued t' t' motor tube at this time so that it can be removed after t' initial tack o' t' fins for internal fillets. Begad! Ya scallywag! This is well spelled out in t' instructions.

T' next step is t' tie t' shock cord t' t' eyebolt. A nice diagram is provided t' describe perfectly t' suggested knot t' be used (a three-wrap "blood knot"). Ya scallywag! T' instructions called t' slather epoxy over t' knot to prevent it from loosenin' later. Blimey! Begad! I found this t' be a good suggestion.

After t' glue on t' forward rin' and t' epoxy on t' knot has set, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, the next thin' t' do is pull t' shock cord down through t' motor tube so that it isn't in t' way, apply adhesive t' t' inside o' t' airframe at t' forward edge o' t' main fin slots, shiver me timbers, me bucko, ya bilge rat, and slide t' motor mount in t' glue t' forward rin' in place. Begad! Again, t' aft rin' is only dry fit on t' motor mount tube and should only be dry fit within t' airframe t' make sure t' tube is centered properly as t' glue sets. Avast! Blimey! T' instructions suggest a nifty "tape-tab" method for removin' t' snug-fittin' aft rin' later. Furthermore, t' instructions point out you must take care t' nay get glue inside t' airframe in t' vicinity o' t' aft rin' so that it can be removed later.

Next, t' main fins are applied. Aye aye! I dry fit t' fins first t' make sure that the slots were cut well and they were a great fit. They were just a shade longer (1/16" o' an inch or so) than t' fin tabs, so I elected t' make them snug against t' aft o' t' fin slots for uniformity. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Before applyin' the fins, me bucko, I sanded t' glassine layer off t' airframes exterior about 1/8" around each fin slot for better glue adhesion. Glue is applied t' t' fin root and they are slid through t' slot for attachment t' t' motor mount tube. Again, care is taken t' nay get glue on t' aft rin' area at this time. Begad! I simply did nay put glue on t' 1/2" or so o' t' fin tab at t' aft to prevent a "squish out" that could become a problem there. The provided fin-alignment template made gettin' them nice and perpendicular a snap!

While t' main fins are drying, t' canard fins can be attached t' the pre-slotted payload. T' builder is instructed t' insert t' tabs on the canards 1/8" through t' slots and then apply good fillets inside and out. I was apprehensive with this at first, arrr, matey, since thar was no interior tube for these fins t' attach to. Avast! In t' end however, shiver me timbers, these fins are relatively small so this be a non-issue. Ahoy! I applied a thick bead o' glue t' each side o' t' fin tab on these forward fins before slidin' them in so that thar would be somethin' for them t' "grab" with and nay fall all t' way through the slot. If any o' this glue beaded up on t' outside o' t' airframe during insertion, I just leveled it out with me finger and chalked it up as part of the filletin' process, which worked great! I used a small (1/16") wooden dowel t' get t' glue in thar for t' internal fillets. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! A dowel that small was not necessary, ya bilge rat, it's just what I had on hand at t' time.

Back t' t' main fins. Arrr! After they have dried t' t' motor mount tube, the aft rin' is removed and six fillets are applied t' each fin. Ya scallywag! Two on each side at t' motor mount tube, me bucko, two on each side at t' inside o' t' airframe, and two on each side on t' outside o' t' airframe. Avast! Ya scallywag! With four fins, that's 24 fillets. Begad! Well, blow me down! Again, arrr, arrr, I used wood glue for this and just slathered it in thar with my little wooden dowel. It took some patience, but I got it done without much trouble. Begad! I did discover that I could fully apply half o' t' fillets on the first pass, me bucko, ya bilge rat, let them set a bit with t' rocket held horizontally, then roll the rocket over 180 degrees and apply t' other half.

While t' fillets were drying, t' bulkhead/payload coupler is built and attached. Ya scallywag! Arrr! First, arrr, me bucko, t' remainin' provided eyebolt is secured t' t' pre-drilled bulkhead plate in t' same fashion as t' other eyebolt be t' t' forward centerin' ring. Arrr! Two washers and two nuts make for a nice fit. Then t' bulkhead plate is glued into t' inside o' t' tube coupler about 1/8" in from one end. Avast! Fillets are added t' both sides o' t' bulkplate t' complete t' assembly. After t' glue has dried enough where t' fillets won't run, me hearties, t' coupler is glued into t' bottom o' t' payload tube with t' bulkhead/eyebolt at the bottom. T' coupler is installed about 2.5" into t' payload tube, ya bilge rat, leaving 2.5" for a shoulder into t' main airframe when t' rocket is assembled. At this point, me hearties, I set t' whole thin' aside for t' evenin' t' let all the fillets cure completely and picked up t' build t' next day.

I started construction t' followin' mornin' knowin' that t' finish line was near and I'd have a finished bird! I started by removin' t' dry fit rear centerin' ring. I opted t' drill it and install a pair o' T-nuts in it for positive motor retention clips before gluin' it in. Aye aye! Begad! I then slathered t' glue on t' inside o' t' airframe and over t' motor tube and slid it in. Avast! It wanted to bind and grab because o' t' wood glue and it took some "coaxing" with a small hammer but I got it in without mishap.

Then t' launch lug is installed. Begad! Blimey! As is mentioned in other Binder Design reviews, t' launch lug is a very tight fit on a 1/4" launch rod. Well, blow me down! I tested t' lug on me rod before gluin' it on and opted t' ditch it in favor of a pair o' shorter 1/4" lugs that I had in t' parts box from Apogee Components. Arrr! I sanded t' glassine off o' t' pre-marked launch lug line as well as t' lugs and put one near t' top o' t' lower airframe and t' other near the bottom.

Then t' nose cone is slid into place and drilled for t' rivets that hold it in, which I feel is a slick method o' makin' sure you don't lose your cone without gluin' it in. Blimey! This enables t' builder t' remove it and actually utilize that big payload bay! First, me hearties, t' nose cone required about 10 wraps of maskin' tape t' get a secure fit in t' payload tube. This is common with Binder Design kits, arrr, and although t' shoulder is loose within t' airframe, the OD o' t' base o' t' cone matches t' OD o' t' airframe very well. Once the nose cone is in, four holes are drilled at 3/4" below t' top o' the payload tube for t' plastic rivets. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! With t' payload tube marked for the provided cuts for t' canard fins, me bucko, gettin' these holes evenly spaced around the tube be a snap. Blimey! After t' four holes are drilled, me hearties, shiver me timbers, t' plastic rivets are simply pushed through t' holes, effectively lockin' t' cone in place until the rivets are removed.

All that's left now is t' tie t' shock cord t' t' eyebolt on t' payload and attach t' chute. Begad! T' shock cord is tied t' t' forward eyebolt in the exact manner as it is t' t' forward centerin' ring. Begad! As for t' parachute, shiver me timbers, the instructions call t' use t' "pull through t' loops" method and attach it directly t' t' shock cord a few inches below t' knot at the bulkplate attachment point. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! I opted t' attach t' shroud lines t' a heavy sampo swivel/clip instead so I could remove it for storage and possible use in other birds. Ahoy! For flight, ya bilge rat, I'd just clip t' parachute t' t' eyebolt.

PROs: Great packaging, wonderfully clear instructions, me hearties, ya bilge rat, good fittin' high quality parts that can be assembled without special buildin' techniques, and no "gotchas" in t' build that I can think of

CONs: T' launch lug is too tight and needs replaced, and thar be no positive motor retention provided (minor detail).

Finishing:
I hardly bother with fillin' tube spirals, especially with mid powered rockets. My experience with rockets o' this class and higher is that people don't look at them with magnifyin' glasses and inspect your fine modelin' skills as when showin' off finely crafted "model" rockets. So, no comment on the spirals from me. I don't find them noticeable, particularly with these tubes anyway. Ahoy! However, arrr, I did use Elmer's Fill 'n' Finish t' patch t' gaps in the forward and aft ends o' t' fin slots where necessary. T' instructions suggest a spot-putty or Bondo type product for this, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, but bein' paper and wood, I thought t' wood filler would be fine. Aye aye! I dabbed it in thar and sanded off the excess which came out great!

For t' fins, I masked t' tube areas off and applied two heavy coats of Folk Art aerosol sandin' sealer and sanded with 400 grit betwixt coats. Arrr! Blimey! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Blimey! This filled all t' grains in t' fins t' a plastic-like, smooth finish. Aye aye! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey!

T' nose cone required minor sandin' t' remove some mold flashin' in addition t' standard sandin' needed on a plastic cone prior t' paintin' for better adhesion.

For paint, me bucko, me hearties, I was happy t' work with a rocket with a single color paint scheme for a change. Blimey! Primer and paint. Arrr! Simple. Aye aye! I gave it two coats o' Krylon gray primer, matey, sandin' in betwixt coats. Ya scallywag! For t' main color, t' kit art appears to be gloss black with a white decal. Begad! Well, blow me down! Since me provided decal be metallic silver, I opted for Rustoleum Midnight Black Metallic. Avast, me proud beauty! This stuff looks splendid, me hearties, dries quickly, shiver me timbers, and goes on smooth.

After t' paint dried overnight, arrr, t' decal be applied. Avast! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! For me, I laid the decal on t' airframe before removin' t' backin' paper t' make sure it would look good in t' designated spot. Aye aye! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! At first, I laid it entirely on t' lower airframe, ya bilge rat, just below t' seam o' t' airframe and t' payload bay. Well, blow me down! Blimey! This just made t' decal look t' low or off-center somehow t' me. Well, blow me down! Blimey! So after thinkin' about it a bit, I slid it forward with t' "H" on t' payload, the "STEALT" on t' lower airframe, and t' seam splittin' the "T" and "H". This looked a lot better t' me. Ahoy! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! So I took great care t' make sure I had t' canard fins and main fins lined up, me bucko, removed the backin' paper, sprayed t' decal and that application spot with soapy water, laid it down, pressed out t' bubbles, shiver me timbers, let it dry, and presto! Blimey! Bein' a stickler for makin' sure everythin' lines up for flight, arrr, me hearties, this decal placement actually helps in t' field. Blimey! Blimey! Just slide t' two halves together and twist until the decal is in alignment. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Ready t' go!

PROs: One color paint scheme and high quality cut-vinyl decal.

CONs: None.

Construction Rating: 5 out o' 5

Flight:
My first flight with this rocket was goin' t' be part o' me first experience actually buildin' and usin' RMS motors, arrr, so naturally I was nervous. With the recommended motors bein' simply "F and G", ya bilge rat, that wouldn't settle for me. I emailed Mike Fisher with Binder Design and he sent me t' RockSim file for this rocket. Well, me hearties, blow me down! I used RockSim t' run t' "non-Level 1" reloads through t' sims t' try and come up with some better suggestions. I had the cases, ya bilge rat, matey, so what t' heck.

My first concern in pickin' motors wasn't so much t' altitudes. Begad! I was lookin' for t' slowest projected velocity at deployment based on me simulation inputs. I printed out me simulation data and be off t' a Tripoli club launch where Tim Lehr, t' "Wildman" from Wildman Rocketry, was t' onsite vendor and be a great help. Begad! Blimey! My first choice was a G64-7 reload but that wasn't available. My second choice was a G54W in me 29/100 case with a RDK-3 short delay. That was t' ticket for t' day.

T' Stealth Jr was me 5th flight o' t' day. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! T' reload was assembled and installed, shiver me timbers, and I clamped down me home grown motor retention clips. Ya scallywag! Then, shiver me timbers, I dropped a couple o' handfuls o' "dog barf" cellulose waddin' in the airframe, looped in that long shock cord, folded and packed t' parachute, and put t' payload bay in place and headed for t' pads.

T' G54W was a perfect first flight. Begad! Begad! Straight as an arrow with a nice quick boost. Avast! The delay change t' t' 6 second delay be even better. Begad! Well, arrr, blow me down! Just as t' rocket flattened out at apogee, t' payload separated at ejection and you could see the big chute unfurl and inflate before that 12' cord uncoiled completely. The rocket gently swung into recovery position and drifted down for a soft landing on t' sod.

T' second flight be a personal launch at a friend's farm. Ya scallywag! Blimey! This time, matey, ya bilge rat, I had gotten a hold o' a G64-7 for me 29/40-120 case. Blimey! Blimey! T' results were t' same, only a much snappier boost and quite a bit higher. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Again, me hearties, a great flight with a sweet looking, sweet flyin' bird.

PROs: What can you say? Stable, arrow straight and looks good on t' pad and in the air.

CONs: A more definite motor selection matrix would be a plus.

Recovery:
T' provided parachute is just beefy. Blimey! Nice heavy shroud lines, and me flights provided a nice, soft deployment and scratch free landings.

I might consider a tubular Keelhaul®©™® protector for t' shock cord for longevity, but I have had no problems with scorchin' or meltin' t' this point. Dog barf works great for me as a wadding, and after two flights t' Stealth Jr is still "good as new."

PROS: My flights recovered perfectly with acceptable drift and no damage.

CONS: Can't think o' any!

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
I really like this rocket! Blimey! Great materials, ya bilge rat, arrr, great packaging, shiver me timbers, me hearties, goes together well, shiver me timbers, and looks really great when you're through. A super solid build that feels light, yet extremely sturdy. Blimey! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! My next flight is planned with an H165R reload for a Level 1 certification flight. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Based on me experience flyin' this rocket and t' simulated altitude o' about 2100' with that reload, ya bilge rat, I'm sure that it will be very doable. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! I'd recommend this rocket t' anyone in t' market for a 29mm powered kit.

Overall Rating: 5 out o' 5