Presented with written permission from RocketyPlanet:

Product Review by Darrell D. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Mobley
Thursday, December 18, ya bilge rat, 2008

T' Crossbow comes with a whole box full o' goodies, arrr, and promised t' be a lot o' fun.

Recently, I had t' opportunity t' get me hands on Giant Leap's new Crossbow, a 4" diameter rocket with what looks like a Talon-inspired theme. Arrr! In reality, me hearties, shiver me timbers, t' Crossbow is more akin t' its cousin, t' Nuclear Sledgehammer, with three fins plus a pair o' mini-wings and forward canards.

At any rate, t' Crossbow looked liked somethin' I would enjoy buildin' and I was happy t' get me hands on this kit. Begad! Begad! Blimey! In September, t' UPS man arrived and I was off t' t' shop.

T' Crossbow comes standard as a 55-inch long kit carryin' a 54mm motor mount with a dry weight o' four pounds, arrr, and t' list o' standard features makes it well worth t' price. Avast, me proud beauty! Standard on t' kit is:

• Pre-slotted phenolic airframes
• 5-to-1 Pinnacle nose cones and tail cone
• Keelhaul®©™ recovery harness protector sleeve
• Keelhaul®©™ parachute protector
• Slimline 54mm motor retainer
• Dual ACME rail guides
• 48" Spherachutes parachute
• Pre-sewn nylon shock cord
• G-10 fins, ya bilge rat, wings canards
• All necessary hardware
• Crossbow decal

Also available are a number o' upgrades, includin' a dual deployment option which includes an avionics bay, me bucko, shiver me timbers, an additional shock cord, a drogue parachute, ya bilge rat, all mountin' hardware, shiver me timbers, and a 24" phenolic payload airframe; as well as a Dyna-Wind single or dual deployment version; along with several recovery options and an optional 38mm-to-54mm motor adapter t' fly t' Crossbow on 38mm motors.

T' variety o' jig and templates I came up with helped get t' fins on straight. After t' fins were in place and t' airframe attached, it was time t' fillet t' fin joints. Ya scallywag! T' Crossbow really has a sexy shape t' it, with all those fins and wings. T' forward canards were moved from t' main airframe tube onto t' payload bay tube.

Recommended motors are 38mm and 54mm I and J motors - t' standard single deployment Crossbow comes with a warnin' nay t' exceed a specified motor size (an AeroTech 54/852 motor or equivalent) without addin' additional nose weight t' increase stability. Well, blow me down! T' kit includes lead shot t' put in t' nose cone, arrr, but Giant Leap recommends addin' more if you want t' fly larger motors. Avast! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! My recommendation is t' get t' dual deployment option and eliminate t' issue, which is what I did, arrr, me hearties, as additional nose weight isn't needed in t' longer dual deployment version - it is plenty stable due t' t' increased length.

One o' t' first things I did after openin' t' box and fondlin' all o' t' parts was t' get right into t' directions and read them from cover-to-cover. Arrr! Well, me bucko, blow me down! Somethin' that has always impressed me with Giant Leap kits was t' extremely thorough, me hearties, well illustrated, matey, instructions that comes with their kits. Ahoy! But I have a known aversion t' leavin' well enough alone and wanted t' see what was in store for me in t' days ahead.

Because o' t' tail cone and t' number o' fins, arrr, I had a little apprehension about makin' sure t' fins were well attached, arrr, so I studied this part o' t' instructions really well, while dry-fittin' t' parts and seein' if thar were areas I could make adjustments t' achieve a better end result. Begad! Well, blow me down! I have t' tell you, I actually cringed when I saw t' illustration o' a perfectly good Slimline retainer gettin' roughed up and covered with JB-Weld! I have always been a proponent o' installin' t' beautifully anodized motor retainers after t' rocket was painted, arrr, as an accent t' t' finish, matey, ya bilge rat, and gluin' it into t' rocket right off t' bat went against me grain. Ahoy! Somehow though, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, I knew I would figure somethin' out.

That is nay t' say you shouldn't follow t' instructions, matey, this is just a quirk o' me own. Avast! Avast! Followin' t' instructions will give you excellent results that you will be extremely satisfied with. What I propose t' do here, me bucko, though, arrr, me hearties, is give you an alternative method if you would like it, and then you could decide which way you liked best and apply it t' your own build.

T' instructions call for attachin' t' Slimline retainer t' t' motor mount tube, attachin' t' forward pair o' centerin' rings, me bucko, installin' t' motor mount tube in t' tail cone and mountin' all o' that t' t' airframe before attachin' t' fins. Avast, me proud beauty! That's a lot t' accomplish in a short amount o' time and t' instructions expressed due concern about gettin' it all just right. Begad! Well, blow me down! In me mind this would also require me t' have great faith in me fin-tab-to-motor-mount-tube epoxy joints, and with t' motor mount tube completely enclosed in t' tail cone, matey, thar be no way I could get inside t' fillet t' joints. Well, blow me down! Without knowin' it, I had encountered what Kent from Giant Leap later described succinctly as t' "Talon Syndrome."

So I created an alternative tail cone assembly process and submitted a copy t' Giant Leap for future use if they so desire, ya bilge rat, and I will describe that assembly process here for you t' use, shiver me timbers, me bucko, too, if you like. Avast, me proud beauty! My process allows you t' build t' motor mount tube, install it into t' tail cone, then install t' fins before installin' t' forward centerin' rings, arrr, all in individual steps rather than one quick step. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! In doin' it this way, matey, you can fillet t' fin tab joint where they meet t' motor mount tube.

You can also optionally decide with this process, shiver me timbers, matey, as I did, t' foam t' inside o' t' fin can after t' fins are installed and filleted. Begad! I did this because, in me thought process, matey, me bucko, t' foam would add a stable backin' at t' fin-to-tail-cone joints, and prevent t' fins from potentially separatin' from t' tail cone if t' tail cone were ever depressed inward around t' fins.

On t' forward end o' t' tail cone, t' motor mount tube is centered in t' 4" openin' by a pair o' 54mm birch plywood centerin' rings. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! T' length o' t' motor mount tube is based on t' length o' t' tail cone, t' shoulder o' t' tail cone, shiver me timbers, t' thickness o' t' two centerin' rings and t' placement o' t' Slimline retainer flush with t' aft end o' t' tail cone.

When I lined up t' holes for t' electronics sled, matey, t' bulk plate disks were off center. When I centered them, t' holes didn't line up. Aye aye! What t' do? When inserted t' t' eyebolts into t' electronics bay end caps, shiver me timbers, matey, t' eyebolts were too short if I used a nut and washer on each side. Avast, me proud beauty! What do do? Rotatin' t' end cap bulk plate disks 90 degrees and recessin' t' washer holes worked out great. Recessin' t' washer holes really made a lot o' sense when I saw how well they turned out. T' removable electronics sled sits snuggly betwixt t' two end caps. My "receiver hitch," which holds t' electronics bay into t' payload section. Ya scallywag! Arrr! T' all-thread screws into t' two T-nuts, ya bilge rat, t' "keyhole" clears t' main chute ejection charge, t' recovery harness passes through t' middle.

I replaced t' rear-most o' t' two forward centerin' rings, me bucko, shiver me timbers, which are standard 4-inch-tube-to-54mm rings, ya bilge rat, with a 4-inch-coupler-tube-to-54mm ring. Arrr! Begad! I did this so I could make a "stepped" forward centerin' ring, slippin' it in place, dry, ya bilge rat, while I attached t' fins. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Then I could remove it and fillet me fin joints, me hearties, and then epoxy it in place permanently when t' fins and tail cone assembly be complete.

In t' kit, t' Slimline retainer basically forms t' aft centerin' ring, because t' tail cone tapers right down t' t' outside diameter o' t' motor retainer. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! But because I wanted t' install t' Slimline after paint, arrr, matey, ya bilge rat, I decided t' put an additional centerin' rin' at t' aft edge o' t' three rear-most fins, me bucko, ya bilge rat, t' allow me t' leave t' Slimline out until it was completed. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! And, arrr, because I had made one o' t' forward centerin' rings so that it fit inside t' tail cone with me stepped design, I took advantage o' this additional 1/4" o' motor mount tube length t' move me Slimline retainer out o' t' tail cone by that same distance. So rather than sittin' flush, me retainer hangs out t' back a little bit, which I hoped would reduce t' potential for t' motor's flame t' toast t' aft o' t' tail cone's finish.

Here's how I did it: I cut a 2-7/8" centerin' rin' from 1/4" birch plywood with a 54mm motor mount hole in it. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' centerin' ring's outer circumference was tapered t' fit t' inside curvature o' t' tail cone and was designed t' mount flush with t' openin' o' t' three tail cone fin slots. Begad! Blimey! For me application, arrr, this centerin' rin' was mounted with 15 minute epoxy 1-5/8" up from t' aft edge o' t' motor mount tube. In this manner, t' fins butted up against t' centerin' ring. Ahoy! Blimey! Your measurement may be different, so measure twice, ya bilge rat, glue once.

I cut a 1/4" birch centerin' rin' with a 54mm motor mount hole in it that would fit inside t' forward openin' o' t' Pinnacle tail cone. Begad! Ya scallywag! You could use a regular 4" coupler bulkhead plate, ya bilge rat, but t' Pinnacle tail cone's shoulder is thicker than a phenolic coupler, so you would have t' sand it down some and then cut a 54mm hole in it.

This new centerin' rin' was epoxied t' one o' t' original forward centerin' rings. No matter which way you build your Crossbow, matey, make sure t' check t' see if your eyebolt/nut/washer combination clears t' tail cone. Aye aye! I noticed mine be hittin' and had t' grind an area out so it would sit flush and nay push t' tail cone shoulder out o' round.

With t' epoxy on both parts dry, ya bilge rat, I roughed up t' inside o' t' aft end o' t' tail cone where me new centerin' rin' would contact t' cone with 80 grit sandpaper. Avast! Ya scallywag! I also sanded t' motor mount tube where t' Slimline would be placed and where t' fins would mount. A liberal amount o' epoxy be applied t' both t' inside o' t' tail cone where it met t' aft centerin' rin' and around t' circumference o' t' aft centerin' ring. T' motor mount tube is slid into place, t' forward "stepped" centerin' rin' is slid on t' temporarily into hold t' motor mount tube in t' proper position and t' assembly is allowed t' dry.

Once dry, arrr, and without takin' t' forward centerin' rin' off, it was time t' mount t' fins. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I used some additional 54mm phenolic couplers and motor mount tubin' I had layin' around t' extend t' motor mount tube temporarily, me hearties, givin' me a method t' position t' tail cone assembly horizontally where I could attach t' fins. Arrr! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I wanted t' mock-up t' be as close t' level as possible t' help me align t' fins better.

I used a pair o' "V" blocks I had built t' lay this in, matey, which would let me rotate t' tail cone as I installed t' fins. Begad! Well, blow me down! Combined with additional jigs cut from luaun door skin plywood t' properly position t' fins at t' right angles, me tail cone looked like a contortionist's day dream when t' fins and jigs were in place. T' bottom line is if you take you time and use your head, shiver me timbers, me bucko, you can come up with t' means t' get your fins in t' right places.

Once t' fins were dry, I removed t' forward centerin' rin' which be temporarily holdin' t' motor mount tube in t' centered position. I mixed up one or two squirt o' West Systems 105 epoxy and hardener and poured it into t' tail cone. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! Blimey! I then spent about 10 minutes rotatin' and rollin' t' tail cone around t' distribute t' epoxy all along each fin's intersection with t' motor mount tube and t' tail cone. Blimey! Blimey! I kept this up until it started t' gel and then repeated t' process again, arrr, makin' sure I had great coverage. Begad! Aye aye! Blimey! I now felt very good about t' fin-to-motor-mount joints.

My next step was t' fill t' area with two-part urethane foam. Avast! Giant Leap sells a version o' this that would be a perfect fit here. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! After t' foam was cured, I installed t' forward centerin' rin' for t' final time, ya bilge rat, arrr, but nay before I drilled t' necessary hole for t' recovery attachment point and bolted it securely into place.

To finish t' airframe assembly, all I had t' do be epoxy t' airframe tubin' t' t' tail cone assembly and admire me work. Somethin' that jumped out at me was that with t' dual deployment option, t' rocket's perspective with regard t' t' forward canards was askew. On t' standard rocket without dual deployment, me hearties, t' canards are mounted on t' main airframe, right below t' nose cone. Begad! Avast! Blimey! With t' dual deployment option, me hearties, t' 24 extra inches o' airframe that makes up t' main recovery area, or payload bay, shiver me timbers, me hearties, makes t' canards looks orphaned "way back there."

So, me bucko, I "fixed" it - I epoxied up t' canard slots in t' main airframe and cut new ones at t' base o' t' main chute compartment, placin' t' canards right above where t' rocket splits at apogee. Avast! I thought it looked a lot better this way for t' dual deployment version and is a simple change if you want t' do yours that way. Ahoy! Aye aye! Because o' t' canards bein' mounted in t' area, where t' coupler that would be housin' t' dual deployment avionics bay is located, I opted t' mount t' canards by tapin' t' inside o' t' slots and slidin' a coupler in place t' support t' canards until t' epoxy set. Ya scallywag! If you want t' move your canards and don't use a removeable electronics bay setup, matey, you can glue in your coupler and then glue t' canards in place.

T' Crossbow turned out just great, and t' red and black accents certainly work well with t' Chrome Yellow paint. Red and black self-adhesive Monokote simplifies t' addition o' trim accents, and t' colors work well together. This closeup shows t' extended Slimline retainer peekin' out from t' rear, ya bilge rat, as well as t' great lines o' t' fins. Avast! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty!

Some o' you observant readers may notice that me bare airframe shots look like t' tubes have fiberglass on them. Blimey! Good catch! I have gotten too old t' enjoy airframe repairs after completin' a rocket, and I have found that fiberglassin' t' airframes be t' best insurance against this. Ya scallywag! I could have gotten t' Dyna-Wind version, shiver me timbers, and highly recommend it for those who want t' additional strength without resortin' t' doin' it yourself, me bucko, but I opted t' glass me tubes myself. Begad! I did this before startin' construction, usin' one layer o' fiberglass sleevin' and turnin' t' tubes on a wood lathe t' sand them smooth. Ahoy! Just remember, fiberglassin' will add t' t' overall weight, me hearties, shiver me timbers, so you have t' choose motor accordingly.

With t' airframe assembly completed, arrr, me next step was t' fillet all t' external fin joints. T' additional fins meant a couple o' extra steps but t' end result be startin' t' materialize from this box o' parts, me bucko, and I was likin' what I be seeing. It be time t' concentrate on me avionics bay, since I had t' dual deployment option and I would use Giant Leap's dual deployment kit t' build one o' me standard electronics bay designs.

With t' dual deployment version, me hearties, you get all o' t' necessary hardware t' create a nice avionics bay. T' 4" version uses very stout 1/4"-20 threaded rods, shiver me timbers, me hearties, .062" G-10 for t' altimeter mount, ya bilge rat, and dual 1/4" end caps that make up a solid 1/2" thick cap for each end. One thin' I noticed however was that t' end caps seemed t' have mismatched holes in them - if I matched up t' holes, matey, t' inner cap wasn't centered on t' outer cap. Aye aye! Ahoy! Blimey! If I centered t' inner cap on t' outer cap, t' holes wouldn't line up. Ahoy! T' center hole would line up, but t' holes for t' electronics sled didn't. Aye aye! Begad! Blimey! What t' do?

My solution: I just rotated t' holes 90 degrees, applied epoxy, centered t' inner cap over t' outer cap and bolted it together with a 1/4"-20 bolt in t' center hole until dry. Begad! I then could redrill me electronics sled holes and go on.

Another thin' I noticed was that if I put a nut and washer on t' eyebolt and stuck it through t' end cap, thar wasn't enough room for a washer and nut on t' other side. Blimey! Begad! I couldn't do without t' washers, me hearties, ya bilge rat, which help spread t' load o' t' recovery event, arrr, so what t' do?

My solution: I took a couple o' flat-bottomed spade bits, one t' diameter o' a regular 1/4" flat washer and t' other t' diameter o' a 1/4" fender washer, and used them t' recess t' holes in t' center o' t' end caps by t' thickness o' t' washers. Begad! T' result be a flush mounted washer on both sides, shiver me timbers, a cleaner solution that doesn't protrude into t' electronics bay area. I was very happy with t' solution.

T' dual deployment kit comes with a regular coupler, which is about 1/2" longer than t' supplied G-10 electronics mountin' board even when you take into consideration that t' end caps protrude into t' electronics bay 1/4" on each end. Well, blow me down! Arrr! I do nay prefer a 1/2" o' slack in me electronics bays, ya bilge rat, as I do nay want me electronics bein' able t' bang around. I like them mounted securely with little movement.

T' removable electronics bay allows for easy access t' t' electronics inside. With t' hood up, you can see t' Cannonball Works RRC2-Mini and quick disconnect for t' drogue charge. On t' back side, t' Newton's 3rd 9V battery holder is easy t' get to, me bucko, matey, t' main charge holder tube in t' upper left. Arrr! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! T' ability t' take it all t' way apart makes access easy and service simple. T' "receiver hitch" is what holds it all together. Arrr!

In me design, shiver me timbers, t' G-10 mountin' board runs from one end cap t' t' other, me bucko, and I cut down t' coupler tube t' make it t' length t' fit this space. Begad! T' piece o' coupler tube I cut off was then used t' make a "receiver hitch" which is mounted permanently in t' payload tube.

I replaced t' short brass tubes that come in t' dual deployment kit that are used t' mount t' electronics mountin' board with carbon fiber arrow shafts. Well, arrr, blow me down! My new tubes extend 1/4" longer than t' G-10 mountin' board on each end. Begad! Begad! This allows them t' be fitted into t' inner end cap bulk plate on each end, matey, addin' strength t' a collapsible design that comes completely apart. Avast, me proud beauty! So where you see t' black carbon fiber tubes in t' accompanyin' photos, me hearties, ya bilge rat, they extend halfway through each end cap - t' holes in t' end caps are sized accordingly, larger on t' inside, arrr, ya bilge rat, smaller on t' outside. I attach t' G-10 t' t' carbon fiber tunes with medium CA, full length, both sides. T' tubes or G-10 are nay glued t' either end cap.

T' "receiver hitch" is made by cuttin' a 4" coupler tube bulkhead plate, addin' a 29mm hole in t' center. Arrr! T' this is added two holes which correspond with t' holes in t' electronics bay end caps. Blimey! These holes will have two 1/4"-20 T-nuts inserted that t' electronics bay all-thread will screw into.

This bulk plate is epoxied into t' cut-off piece o' coupler tube previously mentioned and will mount permanently inside t' payload tube, me hearties, t' receive and hold t' electronics bay. Arrr! Aye aye! Before doin' that, matey, a "keyhole" recess is cut t' one side o' t' 29mm center hole, as shown in t' accompanyin' photos, me bucko, t' clear t' main ejection charge holder tube, arrr, which mounts in t' forward end cap.

I make me ejection charges for this rocket out o' 1/2" launch lugs housin' flash bulbs. T' main ejection charge holder tube is a 3" long piece o' 3/4" aluminum tubing, 1/16" wall, with a 1/4" thick plywood aft plug, epoxied into t' "back" side o' t' forward electronics bay end cap. Avast! T' "back" side is identified as t' side opposite o' t' carbon fiber tubes, ya bilge rat, and is pointed out in an accompanyin' photo. Begad! T' "front" side has an aluminum bracket fashioned from 1-1/4" wide, 1/16" wall, me hearties, aluminum strap and holds t' altimeter switch. Aye aye! T' opposite end 0cap used a regular electronics terminal wired through t' cap t' connect t' t' drogue ejection charge.

Access t' t' electronics bay power switch is through a 1/4" vent hole, which is placed directly over t' switch. Arrr! Arrr! Blimey! Careful measurin' and drillin' will put your holes in t' correct places. Another matchin' 1/4" vent hole is placed 180 degrees on t' aft o' t' payload compartment.

For recovery, I would be usin' t' new Cannonball Works RRC2-Mini, a wonderfully simple t' use altimeter with a small foot print. Begad! Housin' t' 9 volt battery that powers t' altimeter is a Newton's 3rd 9V battery holder. Well, blow me down! I like this holder because it sits up off t' backin' plate, me bucko, which allows you t' slip a nylon wire zip-tie under and around t' battery t' secure it in place.

Field assembly o' t' electronics bay is a snap, ya bilge rat, access is wide open, and you can replace any o' t' parts without havin' t' majorly rebuild any part o' your electronics bay. That is what I like about this design. Blimey! No hatches, doors, me bucko, external switches, screws, etc., matey, matey, me bucko, are needed. It's just a clean and simple design that works.

With t' electronics bay completed, ya bilge rat, it was time t' turn me attention t' gettin' t' Crossbow ready for paint. Aye aye! Avast! I had previously decided t' paint t' rocket usin' NAPA's Martin Senour Crossfire automotive acrylic enamel paint with urethane hardener, matey, and settled on a bright Ford color called "Chrome Yellow."

T' rocket was prepped with Martin Senour automotive gray primer, shiver me timbers, arrr, and t' cycle began: prime, me bucko, sand, matey, repeat. Blimey! I wanted t' get a smooth finish, shiver me timbers, but more importantly, I wanted t' get a seamless surface where t' tail cone met t' airframe tube. Aye aye! T' only way t' do that is t' prime and sand usin' a flat sandin' block. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! It may be a lot o' work, but t' end result is worth it.

I painted t' rocket outdoors, behind me shop, ya bilge rat, on a bright clear October day. Well, matey, blow me down! Even with t' still winds and clear skies, thar were still a couple o' kamikaze bugs who wanted t' spend their lives ridin' rockets. Fortunately, all that got embedded seemed t' be feet and legs, and some polish and wax got most o' that out.

Over t' bright yellow finish, I added red and black self-adhesive Monokote trim accents that I cut out myself, along with t' Crossbow decal that came with t' kit. Blimey! When you install t' decal, use an Exacto knife t' remove t' excess clear tape outside o' t' lettering. Well, blow me down! Next was t' Slimline retainer and t' ACME rail guides.

T' author poses with t' Crossbow, matey, both sportin' loud yellow wrappings. Ahoy! Begad! T' Crossbow is loaded with a J260 Skidmark demo motor, ya bilge rat, made for t' CTI Pro54 2 grain casing.

Every star wants t' pose for a glamour shot. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! T' Crossbow takes flight on a column o' sparks. T' Crossbow's J260SK maiden flight.

I have t' tell you, I did nay follow t' directions on how t' attach t' rail guides and I popped one on t' first launch. On previous builds, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, I have tried t' use t' sticky tape that comes with t' ACME guides, but it would get hot and fall off! This time, I just CAed t' guides right t' t' rocket, and it snapped off, clean as a whistle. Ahoy! I am seriously thinkin' about just takin' a countersink and drillin' a small hole right in t' middle o' t' guides and usin' short screws t' attach them. Aye aye! So pay special attention t' t' ACME guides if you use them, me bucko, they require special attention t' get t' stuck and keepin' them there.

T' bright yellow Crossbow got a lot o' attention at Bunnell Blast, held on Saturday, matey, November 8th and hosted by t' North East Florida Rocketry Association in Bunnell, Florida, ya bilge rat, just northwest o' Daytona, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, arrr, Florida. Aye aye! Blimey! NEFAR enjoys acres o' beautiful sod as a launch site, and are t' best group t' launch with you can find.

For t' maiden flight, shiver me timbers, I be offered t' opportunity t' also make a maiden flight o' a CTI J260 Skidmark, matey, a new two-grain motor configuration cooked up by t' guys north o' t' border. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! I can't say enough about t' ease o' use CTI motors offer t' users. Assembly be so simple, just stick in t' parts and screw on t' closure. Begad! Cleanup was just as easy.

T' weather was as perfect as I have ever seen at a launch, me hearties, matey, with nothin' but clear skies, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, matey, light winds from t' north, me bucko, and lots o' sunlight. Arrr! I prepped t' motor and put it in t' Crossbow, ya bilge rat, and then prepped t' recovery and electronics. Avast! With me electronics bay design, arrr, access be very easy, arrr, matey, which is what I like about 4" rockets - you can get your hands in there.

On t' pad, after t' obligatory creator-creation photo op, arrr, t' Crossbow just looked majestic sittin' there. It was a very nice design and got lots o' comments from people walkin' t' flight line, and now was t' moment o' truth. Continuity was checked, t' altimeter armed, and then back t' t' LCO desk.

At ignition, matey, t' big J Skidmark roared t' life and took off for t' north, appearin' t' cone a little. I couldn't decide if it was tryin' t' fly on t' wings or if I got a weird thrust vector. Arrr! Begad! I would later learn that me aft rail guide snapped off on t' way up and contributed t' t' off-vertical launch. Ahoy! T' Crossbow would streak t' 1974 feet before landin' safely in a pasture across Bunnell Road.

My initial review upon reachin' t' landin' site was t' Crossbow was in excellent condition, with just a few cosmetic cuts and contusions. Ahoy! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! One o' two things occurred at deployment, either t' recovery harnesses needed t' be longer or t' ejections charges were too large. Ya scallywag! I subscribe t' t' school o' blow 'em up or blow 'em apart, so it could very well have been t' latter. Aye aye! At any rate, ya bilge rat, it was a beautiful flight and t' Crossbow performed admirably.

Loaded with style and grace, shiver me timbers, t' Crossbow will be sure t' generate a lot o' ooos and ahhhs from onlookers. Arrr! It is an excellent kit for those who like that winged look, those who are desirous o' more than 3FNC, matey, or those who enjoy somethin' out o' t' ordinary. Arrr! I heartily recommend it and think you will enjoy t' build. While I am at it, I also recommend t' dual-deployment version, shiver me timbers, as it reduces t' typical instability issues o' shorter rockets with large motor mounts, arrr, ya bilge rat, as you are goin' t' most certainly want t' put larger and larger motors in it just t' see t' results. Begad! Blimey! T' Giant Leap web site says this rocket is nay for t' faint at heart, but it really wasn't that big o' a deal if you are able t' read things through and follow instructions, or know what t' do should you want t' try somethin' different. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! If you are up t' t' challenge, me hearties, give t' Crossbow a shot.