Brief:
T' PML Matrix is a sport rocket advertised as a meteor defense weapon with a futuristic look about it. Begad! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! T' kit is a 3” diameter model made for H and I high-power motors and uses a 3 fin configuration, although thar are twelve fins total for t' model.

Construction:
T' kit came in a bag and included all t' necessary parts; 3” diameter “Quantum” body tube (1/16” thick semi-flexible plastic tube), ya bilge rat, a 12” long payload tube section, shiver me timbers, matey, arrr, nosecone, twelve G-10 fiberglass fins, bulkhead, shiver me timbers, piston assembly, ply centerin' rings, ya bilge rat, 38mm motor mount, 36” parachute, all t' necessary hardware, matey, me bucko, a nice set o' decals and detailed assembly instructions. T' payload tube was dado-slotted for t' six upper fins (not slotted all t' way through) while t' main body tube was pre slotted for through t' wall main fins and dado-slotted for t' long stabilizer fins. Begad! As usual, me bucko, this is a typical high quality PML kit usin' some o' t' best materials available. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Component Rating: 5 o' 5

I used 15 minute epoxy throughout t' construction, which gave me a little extra workin' time with t' materials. Aye aye! Tip: Use 80 grit sandpaper for roughing up all surfaces prior t' gluing; it has more bite than t' recommended 120 grit and will create a stronger bond t' t' surfaces.

You begin by buildin' t' Motor Mount assembly. Arrr! Once you have glued the black shock cord t' t' side o' t' motor mount tube, matey, GLAZE t' top o' the strap with epoxy for added strength. Avast! Be careful nay t' install t' mount with the strap area under a fin slot; position t' shock strap area betwixt two of the fin slots. Begad! Blimey! Also, matey, arrr, do nay use t' scotch tape method on t' aft motor mount, as it just breaks off. Avast! Instead, ya bilge rat, push t' aft centerin' rin' on, arrr, then once the forward centerin' rin' glue joint has set, use a 6” metal ruler through the fin slots t' push t' aft centerin' rin' back out o' t' body tube. Ya scallywag!

PML uses a piston ejection system which works very well and eliminates the need for wadding. Once t' piston assembly is built, glaze t' inside and outside wooden surfaces with epoxy. Avast, me proud beauty! This adds strength t' piston and waterproofs t' wood, me hearties, so you can easily clean t' rocket after t' day’s flight. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! There is one problem t' note; t' PML 3” kits all tend t' come with an oversized piston. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! I have nay seen this problem with t' 2” or 4” kits, ya bilge rat, but, me hearties, me hearties, right out o' t' bag, shiver me timbers, t' 3” piston fits very tight inside t' Quantum tube and requires a TON o' sandin' t' get it t' move smoothly. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! I have seen t' 3” piston completely shred on an ejection with another friends PML kit, even though t' correct powder charge be used. This was probably due t' t' fact that t' walls o' t' piston were so thin from sandin' it t' fit that it couldn't withstand t' ejection. I resolved the problem by purchasin' a 3” PML body coupler tube as a replacement. Avast! Ahoy! The Coupler fits better and gave me t' extra material needed t' “Double” the wall thickness o' t' piston. I made a new Piston by cuttin' t' coupler to the length o' t' original piston. Blimey! Ahoy! Next, t' wooden face be glued into t' new piston followin' t' directions from t' instruction manual. Aye aye! Finally, I cut another “inside sleeve” from t' remainin' coupler material. The inside piston sleeve was then cut lengthwise and sanded at t' cut area until it could be squeezed together and easily fit inside t' original piston. Well, blow me down! This sleeve was glued inside t' piston usin' epoxy and I made sure it was pushed all t' way forward until it made contact with t' inside wooden piston face. T' final product was a very strong, me hearties, double thick piston that works like a charm. Just somethin' t' try if you experience t' same problem. Aye aye! Ahoy!

Next came t' assembly o' t' bulkhead into t' payload tube, matey, however, ya bilge rat, there were two modifications that were made t' t' payload area. Aye aye! I used a 1 ½” U-Bolt instead o' t' eyebolt supplied in t' kit because eyebolts have a tendency t' eventually pull apart. See t' picture for me U-Bolt installation. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! T' other modification made be t' installation o' an altimeter bay. Aye aye! I already had a CPR 3000 ready rocket with mounts on me altimeter, me bucko, matey, so I just needed t' duplicate t' altimeter mountin' bay for t' CPR. I purchased two 3” x 1.5” centerin' rings, along with a 1.5” motor mount tube (38mm sized). T' Motor mount tube was cut t' a length o' 6 ½” and a 1/8” wide slot be cut in t' tube t' a length o' 1” so the altimeter could “breathe”. Begad! T' two centerin' rings were glued t' the motor tube; t' top rin' was mounted flush with t' end o' t' tube and the lower centerin' rin' was mounted 2 ½” from t' other end o' t' tube. This assembly be glued into t' payload section with t' top centerin' ring recessed 4 ½” from t' top o' t' body tube. Aye aye! Begad! Three 3/32” holes were drilled through t' payload tube, shiver me timbers, which allow t' altimeter t' sense outside pressure. Avast, me proud beauty! Finally, me bucko, I inserted a piece o' 1/2" hobby foam on top of the altimeter and used t' nose cone for retention, since it is attached with screws. Aye aye! See t' pictures for t' altimeter mount and installation. Well, blow me down!

T' lower fins were glued on next; I put a small amount o' epoxy on t' edge o' a fin, me hearties, then inserted it through t' fin slot and used maskin' tape t' hold it down on t' motor tube. Well, arrr, blow me down! Once t' three main fins were glued, I cut 1 ½” wide strips o' 2oz fiberglass cloth to t' length o' each fin, me bucko, then glassed t' space from t' motor mount t' the fin t' t' inner body tube. Begad! Begad! I soaked t' cloth in epoxy then folded it around a ½” wide stick, which allowed me t' insert it into t' tube. T' stick was then used t' make sure t' cloth was pressed down on all surfaces. Aye aye! Arrr! This adds strength inside t' body tube area, shiver me timbers, especially where t' fins are glued to the mount. Our club does a lot o' cold weather launches, so I glass all me fins inside and out for added strength. Follow t' directions for mountin' t' long stabilizer fins, me bucko, which I installed after t' lower fins were set. Once t' stab fins are in place, glue t' upper fins t' t' payload tube. Install three fins at a time, me hearties, then turn t' payload tube and re-use t' main fins for alignment o' t' last three payload fins. Blimey! Note: even though this kit has 12 fins total, shiver me timbers, matey, t' assembly was very easy. Avast! You don’t see many o' these kits out there, probably because o' t' amount o' fins on t' model. Begad! Don’t be intimidated! It’s very easy t' build and looks great when finished. Ahoy!

In addition, matey, me hearties, me hearties, I fiberglassed t' lower fins usin' 1 ½ oz cloth and 15 minute epoxy, then I applied small fillets t' t' upper and long stabilizer fins and larger fillets t' t' launch lugs and lower fins since they would be absorbin' t' majority o' t' shock from landing. Finally, arrr, three holes were drilled and tapped in t' bottom o' t' model for t' PMR motor retainer, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, a few drops o' medium CA applied, then t' threaded retainer plugs were installed. Construction Rating: 4 o' 5

Finishing:
White Krylon primer was applied prior t' t' first sandin' and I used 100 grit to cut away any excess epoxy resin left from t' fiberglassin' and t' blend in the cloth seams. Begad! I used an electric sander in t' glassed area, matey, which helped cut t' work down considerably. A few more coats o' primer were added, ya bilge rat, then I wet sanded with 220 grit. Well, blow me down! Finally, ya bilge rat, a few more coats o' primer were added and I started with 400 grit and finished it up by wet sandin' with 600 grit. Dark Red Glossy Krylon paint was used on fins, while t' nosecone and body tubes were done in Testors Chrome. Arrr! Begad! T' colors were picked by me son, arrr, Thomas, and I must say it really looks good once painted. Avast! It was a bit tricky applyin' t' paint the way I wanted though; I knew t' Chrome was very sensitive t' touch, so I sprayed it last. Aye aye! Ahoy! T' tricky part be maskin' all t' fins after they were painted, arrr, but it turned out well. Well, blow me down! Begad! I used Testors Clear Glosscoat t' protect the finish, since t' chrome paint has a tendency t' mar very easily. Aye aye!

Decals were nay applied until later on and are nay shown in t' launch pics. As a last step, t' shock cord and parachute were attached per the instructions. T' 36” parachute deviates from t' yellow/purple PML standard and is red/white in color, me bucko, shiver me timbers, which I believed attributed t' t' color scheme decision. Arrr! I did add a 1” link, matey, arrr, which allows me t' attach the parachute, then remove it later for cleaning. Don’t forget t' tack glue the shock cord knots with a drop o' epoxy as they can work their way loose. Finish: 5 o' 5

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
My son and I went t' t' last launch o' t' sprin' season for our Tripoli Mid-Ohio Club. Ya scallywag! Everyone out thar helped set up, me bucko, then it was time t' get some rockets on t' pads. Avast! Begad! It turned out t' be a beautiful day with temperatures in the 70’s with a decent, but manageable breeze. Well, blow me down! Our first launch o' the Matrix was on a 38mm H123W with a short delay. Well, blow me down! T' rocket be carefully prepared and placed on t' pad. Ya scallywag! It was a real thrill seein' t' look on my son’s face when he observed his first HP launch! T' launch was spectacular for such a small load; It traveled a nice straight line leavin' a really cool trail o' white smoke behind. Blimey!

Recovery:
T' parachute ejected at apogee and t' rocket drifted safely t' t' ground. T' design o' t' long stabilizer fins on this model works well and t' stab fins never touch t' ground durin' landing. Begad! It be such a good flight that we had t' do it again. Blimey! We launched twice more, me bucko, once on a I161W-medium and once on another H123W-short. Ya scallywag! Both flights went as planned, ya bilge rat, but t' I161 really gets it off t' pad in a hurry! On t' final flight, shiver me timbers, one o' t' lower fins stuck in the ground like an axe durin' landin' and was suspendin' t' upper part o' the rocket in t' air. Aye aye! After checkin' t' model for damage and realizin' it was fine, it proved t' me yet again that fiberglassin' fins really pays off! We did get it a bit scratched up in t' field, arrr, but nothin' that cannot be touched up. That’s just rocketry! Flight/Recovery: 5 o' 5

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
T' PML Matrix really is an excellent model and, even though it has quite a few fins, me hearties, it’s a dream t' build and fly. Begad! Avast! T' small modifications I made were only for me peace o' mind as I want this rocket t' last for a while. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! My only complaint is with t' 3” piston; if they could only ship them a bit smaller in diameter, shiver me timbers, me hearties, it would have been a perfect kit. Avast! I had nay doubled up the piston yet, even though it was pretty thin. Avast! Begad! I did however buy an extra PML coupler from Ross at Magnum Rockets while we were at t' launch and am in the process o' doublin' up t' piston at t' present time. That one fault aside, the Matrix otherwise is an excellent kit, ya bilge rat, good in quality and value, with one unique look that really catches your eye! Overall Rating: 4.75 o' 5

Overall Rating: 4 ¾ out o' 5