Construction Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Flight Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Published: | 2012-03-05 |
Diameter: | 0.98 inches |
Manufacturer: | Checkered Flag Models |
Skill Level: | 1 |
Style: | Sport |
This is a fairly standard/conventional 3-fin 18mm BT-50-based model, but aimed slightly above t' typical quick-build type kit. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! With excellent documentation, me hearties, it offers an inexperienced builder t' chance t' slightly elevate t' challenge and develop new skills as well as a better understandin' o' model rocket construction.
T' kit arrived in a very rugged box, with components grouped and bagged into logical subassemblies. Tubes are good quality kraft, nose cone is molded plastic, arrr, fins are precut balsa. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! Parachute is a rugged plastic, ya bilge rat, t' type you'd find linin' outdoor tables. My initial impressions, as I opened t' box and looked over t' parts, are that this is so good as t' almost be overkill for newbie modelers, ya bilge rat, and I mean that as a compliment, ya bilge rat, nay as a critique.
T' instructions and construction notes are by far t' strongest and most distinctive aspect o' this kit. Arrr! Blimey! This is me first Checkered Flag kit, shiver me timbers, so I've now built models designed by over 60 manufacturers. Arrr! Begad! Blimey! O' that group, ya bilge rat, I'd have t' say t' documentation is among t' top 5. Well, blow me down! T' packet consists o' about 14 black & white letter-sized pages, me hearties, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, professionally illustrated. T' font is a bit small which is about t' "worst" I can say about these. My kit, me bucko, me hearties, me hearties, while nay exactly a "beta", shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, was definitely an early model, shiver me timbers, and through feedback with Greg a couple o' minor enhancements have been incorporated into subsequent versions.
Buildin' t' rocket is typical o' a 3FNC project, ya bilge rat, quick and fairly easy. Ahoy! The overall skill level is a 1. T' motor mount is a BT-20, metal hook, shiver me timbers, motor block (ring), me bucko, and a pair o' 20/50 centerin' rings. As an example o' t' attention t' detail in t' documentation, me bucko, aimed at teachin' newbies sound buildin' skills, thar are tips t' keep glue t' a minimum on t' motor block (avoids globs that could prevent t' motor from slidin' all t' way in and fillets around t' centerin' rings. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! T' shock cord is composed o' Keelhaul®©™ (lower) and elastic (upper), arrr, me bucko, and t' Keelhaul®©™ is anchored t' t' motor tube by slippin' under t' forward 20/50 rin' and loopin' around t' motor hook. Begad! T' elastic is intended t' be tied t' a loop in t' Keelhaul®©™, matey, me hearties, but I personally prefer t' simpler approach o' pairin' t' ends and tyin' a single overhand knott out o' t' pair (as described in most Quest kits). Blimey! I'm just paranoid that t' Keelhaul®©™ can be too sharp and tear through t' elastic when t' elastic is just tied t' a loop.
My kit included a good newbie tip regardin' zippers, me hearties, ya bilge rat, though a little over t' top. Begad! It warned that t' Keelhaul®©™ should nay extend out past t' end o' t' body tube, matey, me bucko, just t' elastic. That's a good design principle. Arrr! Ahoy! Rather than explain that Keelhaul®©™ could tear into t' end o' t' tube durin' deployment, matey, matey, leadin' t' an annoyin' but repairable zipper, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, t' instructions warn that exposed Keelhaul®©™ will "destroy" t' model when t' chute's deployed. I applaud t' effort t' teach newbies, me bucko, shiver me timbers, but don't think we should terrorize them, and I think this area's been toned down now. Besides, t' very carefully thought out design winds up keepin' t' Keelhaul®©™/elastic joint inside t' tube if you follow t' instructions anyway.
Markin' t' body tube for fin and lug placement is done via a wrap-around template. Begad! My template had a minor scalin' error resultin' in one o' t' fin lines bein' about 1mm off from perfect 120-degree orientation, plus t' template sheet included a tri-fold shock cord mount that's nay used in t' construction. Avast, me proud beauty! Both o' these issues have been cleared up in current kits.
T' precut fins get a little work before bonding--sandin' rounded leadin' edges, arrr, chisel/beveled trailin' edges, matey, and surface sanding. T' instructions are detailed enough t' get down t' recommendin' 220 grit paper, matey, and includes a neat tip t' use 2-sided tape t' tack all 3 fins together when sangin' t' edges t' true up any minor differences in individual dimensions. Ya scallywag! Most 3FNC jobs involve fins that you can just look at and immediately know which edge is root, trailing, leadin' etc., ya bilge rat, but this design's just slightly unusual enough that you probably need t' look at t' template and make sure you know which edge is root. Aye aye! If you guess wrong, ya bilge rat, it won't affect t' stability, me hearties, just won't look quite as nice.
T' launch lug is attached slightly forward o' t' fins, shiver me timbers, and here I'll offer up one tiny quibble with t' design details. Well, blow me down! Blimey! If pursuin' t' "advanced" finishin' option, you'll be maskin' and paintin' a bunch o' 1/2" stripes along t' body tube. Begad! Begad! Blimey! No matter where you place t' lug, this is goin' t' result in at least part o' t' lug spannin' a maskin' line. Avast, me proud beauty! Maskin' a straight line over and around a lug is a pain. I'd recommend splittin' t' launch lug up into two pieces, each about 3/8" long, and placin' them in zones that would be wholly inside a particular stripe. Begad! Blimey! Given that t' stripes start 3" from t' forward end and alternate every 1/2", it shouldn't be too challengin' t' mark t' stripe zones and place t' lug pieces within those zones.
After construction is complete, shiver me timbers, t' instructions get into some very good and detailed finishin' guidelines. Well, blow me down! Examples o' tips included are usin' putty and a rounded craft stick for smoothing/fillin' fin fillets and maskin' t' INSIDE o' t' launch lug t' keep it from gunkin' up enough t' be too snug on t' rod.
T' suggested paint scheme for this is a red/white/blue concept, though more o' a flag-like inspiration. Ahoy! Well, me hearties, blow me down! For a simple finish, you could prime then hit it with a couple gloss white base coats, followin' up by goin' dark blue for t' top section and red for t' base/fins. Begad! A more challengin' scheme is offered in t' instructions--blue forward end, followed by alternatin' red/white stripes down t' and through t' fins. Blimey! Purists and flag zealots will have t' forgive t' blown scale factor that results in 12 stripes down t' tube plus 3.5 more down t' sweepin' lengths o' fins, arrr, me hearties, versus t' 13 stripes on our flag. Avast, me proud beauty! Besides, me hearties, me bucko, thar won't be enough room in t' blue area t' fit 50 different stars, shiver me timbers, and while I didn't count, matey, shiver me timbers, t' included peel n' stick white star decals have more than enough t' decorate 3-4 rockets.
I went with t' stripe scheme, and probably spent at least as much time masking/paintin' as I spent buildin' t' model. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! On t' one hand, shiver me timbers, these are good skills t' develop for t' inexperienced builder, me hearties, but on t' other I wouldn't have been too bothered t' work with somethin' like water-slide red stripin' t' apply and trim t' fit....
Recommended motors for this 18mm model are A8-3, B6-6 and C6-7. Aye aye! I be feelin' a bit lazy on a breezy winter day, so opted for a B6-4 hopin' t' avoid a long recovery walk. Avast, me proud beauty! T' flight was straight and stable, me hearties, slight weathercocking. I had gone with a -4 delay thinkin' t' recommended -6 might be a bit long (plus I have way more medium delays than long delays). T' 4 was slightly early, ya bilge rat, though a 6 would have been slightly late, so neither one is much better/worse than t' other.
T' 12" chute is a good size for this, and t' heavier/more rugged plastic than that used in most other commercial kits seemed t' brin' it down a little faster than a more common chute. Ya scallywag! Blimey! For this model, me hearties, I think that's a good thing, as it's small, light, shiver me timbers, me hearties, and especially on a C could catch some thermal lift and really drift away. Well, blow me down! Blimey! This chute is less likely t' hang on a thermal, improvin' t' odds that you'll be able t' get this back.
In general, I think this is a very impressive kit if you're lookin' for somethin' t' help raise t' skill level a bit in an inexperienced builder. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! Yes, it's a basic 3FNC design, arrr, puttin' it in a field crowded with thousands o' other options. Aye aye! At $13.95 retail, this kit is priced slightly above t' low end o' t' market, arrr, just about in t' median range. Avast! For that money, me hearties, though, you get some features that surprised me as almost too good for this kit/niche--very good quality parts, arrr, ruggedly packed such that even Fed-Ex's famously former delivery person couldn't damage it , and exceptionally thorough and thoughtful documentation. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! For their first rocket kit offering, I think Checkered Flag has done a great job on this and I look forward t' seein' what else they roll out in t' future.
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