Brief:
Keelhaul®©™ sock reinforcement, matey, payload bay created, matey, me hearties, fully slotted body tube for external fin can assembly. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! Modified t' take Aerotech 29mm reloads up t' an I200.

Modifications:
T' list o' modifications for this kit included:

• (1) Created an 11.8" payload bay out o' t' original long body tube. Well, blow me down!
• (2) Airframe has been reinforced usin' a Giant Leap Keelhaul®©™ Sock with West Systems Epoxy and vacuum bagged usin' me foodsaver.
• (3) Fins have been fiberglassed and vacuum bagged.
• (4) Fin can assembly was created by slottin' t' body tube and mountin' t' fins t' a LOC 29mm motor mount (which t' plastic centerin' rings will fit over).
• (5) Fin can assembly fillet joints were reinforced usin' Keelhaul®©™ tape and West Systems Epoxy.
• (6) Coupler assembly be created by cuttin' a 3" PML phenolic coupler and bulkhead t' size.
• (7) Recovery harness be replaced with 15' o' 9/16" tubular nylon
• (8) Parachute was replaced with a low porosity 40" rip stop nylon chute.
• (9) Nomex shock cord sleeve used along with Nomex chute protector. Begad!
• (10) 29mm motor retention be supplied by Pete's Rockets. Ya scallywag!

I bought this kit thinkin' that this is a really sharp lookin' rocket that deserves t' be built and flown on an I200. T' kit comes with recommendations on flight usin' F and G motors. Avast! Blimey! Well if I be goin' t' fly this on H and I motors it needed a fin can and airframe that would stay in place when 20+g's o' force be applied. T' airframe be laid up with Keelhaul®©™ (usin' a Keelhaul®©™ sock) and vacuum bagged. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! A second layer o' fiberglass be used t' provide a finishin' veil.

A payload section be created afterwards by cuttin' t' newly reinforced tube. I should have cut t' tube prior t' layin' up t' Keelhaul®©™ and fiberglass as this proved very difficult. Ya scallywag! I used me trusty Dremel for most o' t' cuttin' work. Begad! Begad! T' body tube was also slotted all t' way down t' allow t' fin-can assembly t' be inserted and epoxied in place. Aye aye! T' fin-can assembly be easy and I used Keelhaul®©™ tape t' reinforce t' plastic centerin' rin' fin-lock joints with t' previously fiberglassed fins. Begad! T' fin-can was inserted into t' body tube and epoxied in place usin' thickened West Systems epoxy.

Once dry I found that t' fins were rock solid (no way these fins are goin' t' suffer flutter).

T' airframe was like concrete when dry. Well, blow me down! This only left t' coupler tube for t' payload section which had t' be cut from a PML 3" coupler. Begad! Begad! I reduced t' coupler accordingly by usin' me Dremel router t' slot t' coupler down its entire length. Well, blow me down! T' coupler was then pressed together t' re-seal t' slot thus reducin' t' diameter o' t' coupler. Avast! T' resultin' seam was sealed usin' un-thickened epoxy and tape. Further reinforcement o' t' coupler was achieved by fiberglassin' t' inside o' t' coupler. At this time t' coupler bulkhead was trimmed usin' me Dremel sandin' drum t' fit t' now reduced diameter coupler. T' bulkhead be eventually epoxied into t' coupler along with an eyebolt/washer/nut assembly. This be in turn epoxied into payload section o' t' airframe.

I used PML rivets t' attach t' nosecone t' t' payload section (after drillin' t' appropriate holes as well as a vent hole in t' payload section).

All that be left be paint and decals which followed t' kit (except for t' blue -- I like metallic colors).

Finally I used a BSD vent and CP decal along with me own decal t' give it t' final appearance. Since I don't know if I will loose a rocket I also put on a special decal informin' t' finder o' me email address and t' contact me.

Construction:
T' NCR box had a nice large picture o' t' Eliminator on t' front (I have actually saved this as a collectors item). Blimey! T' contents o' t' box showed all parts intact. Begad! Instruction manual be clear and comprehensive.

Decals were a self-adhesive mylar trim. Begad! These went on with no problem as long as you use a little warm water with some washin' up liquid in a bowl. Ya scallywag! Avast! Blimey! Once t' decals have been wetted with t' solution you have a minute or so before they begin t' stick This should give you time t' position t' decals correctly.

PRO: Great lookin' rocket with nice decals. Begad! Well, me bucko, blow me down! T' size o' t' rocket makes for a stable design which gives greater scope t' vary t' engines used. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! I liked t' fin-lock as this made alignment easy.

CONS: Well, me bucko, since I didn't build it stock I can't say too much. Begad! However, I didn't like t' elastic shock cord and t' long body tube built stock would be probably zipper after a few launches. Blimey! T' plastic centerin' rings are probably fine for F and G motors but for H and I motors it remains t' be seen if they will hold up.

Flight:
I have only flown this rocket once on an H180-10 (with t' 44oz weight it really ripped off t' pad). Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! I Rocksim'd it extensively t' ensure that it was goin' t' deploy at apogee on t' motors I be considering. As it turned out it deployed perfectly in a 15mph wind (with a subsequent 3/4 mile walk) with lots o' oohs and aaahs. Ahoy! Blimey! Blimey! Since it is an apogee only rocket it was easy t' prep. Aye aye! Begad! Blimey! I used a Nomex shock cord protector along with a Nomex chute protector t' provide 'wadding'. T' next launch will be t' ultimate test usin' t' I200 motor.