A couple of months ago, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, matey, Charlie, arrr, t' owner o' HobbyTown USA in Brea, matey, me bucko, CA told me he was bringin' in PML kits I started gettin' excited. I told him t' hold on t' a Pterodactyl Jr. Ya scallywag! Begad! for me (See Kerry's review o' t' kit). Avast! When they came in, shiver me timbers, I opened t' shippin' box for Charlie and pulled out t' Pterry (sorry Kerry). Blimey! Blimey! I found t' kit easy t' build and very sturdy. Blimey! Begad! I liked it so much I went out and bought a PML Small Endeavor kit.

T' Small Endeavor is also a straight forward PML kit. If you have ever built a kit by this company you will know what I mean. It features six precut G10 fins, pre-slotted Quantum tubing, a very sturdy 38mm engine mount, piston ejection, shiver me timbers, tubular nylon shock cord, and a 30 inch ripstop nylon chute with spill hole. Avast, me proud beauty! ( I can personally attest t' t' strength o' these kits as last week t' Pterry forgot her ejection charge and tried t' drill for water in the nearby dry riverbed. T' only damage be a ruined paint job and a loose fin).

First thin' I did, me hearties, after checkin' t' make sure that all parts were there, was t' sand t' entire Quantum tube inside and out in t' fin can area t' make sure t' epoxy would adhere properly. Avast, me proud beauty! I then test fit t' Motor mount and fins to make sure everythin' fit together well. Avast, me proud beauty! I built t' motor mount/ shock cord assembly per t' instructions, with no modifications. Avast! (To protect t' shock cord from ejection, I will put a bit o' waddin' on top o' t' motor tube before loadin' t' piston). Make sure you don't glue t' aft centerin' rin' on at this time.  At this point, me bucko, I installed t' "T" nuts for the motor retention system. I used 6/32 threads as this is standard for most o' my high power models. I have two sets o' t' Giant Leap retention systems and I share them amongst t' different models. By installin' t' nuts now, I can screw in t' cap screws now, this makes pullin' t' rin' out much easier later when reinforcin' t' fin joints on t' inside o' t' tube and on t' motor tube. Well, blow me down!

Before epoxyin' t' fins in place you need t' prepare them. First, me bucko, sand the root edge area t' makin' sure it is clean, smooth and straight. Make sure you wipe any dust off. Rough up t' area were t' fin will contact t' main airframe too. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! G10 fins are very thin, some people will sand a leadin' edge, but I just rounded t' leadin' and trailin' edges. Ahoy! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! Again, before epoxying, make sure ALL areas are dust free. I have discovered that Epoxy, fiberglass and plastic shavings and dust LOVE t' stick t' surfaces due t' static. Begad! Ya scallywag! A damp towel usually will dissipate t' static charge and clean t' dust off.

With t' motor mount and forward centerin' rin' epoxied in place, and t' aft rin' in place but nay glued, me bucko, me bucko, it is time t' epoxy t' fins in place. Begad! Blimey! I cut a jig out o' thin card board (see t' illustration). Well, blow me down! I glued each fin in place one at a time usin' 5 minute epoxy, makin' sure t' jig is holding the fin perfectly straight.  After t' epoxy had set, I pulled t' rear rin' out and applied generous Fillets on t' motor tube fin joint and the inside airframe fin joint usin' 30 minute epoxy. Arrr! Finally, I epoxied t' rear rin' in place makin' sure t' retention screws did nay line up with t' fins.

One o' t' biggest changes be in t' Piston assembly, I have heard about short pistons jammin' so I replaced t' 2 inch piston sleeve with a 4 inch sleeve. (As you can see in t' picture, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, arrr, you may also notice t' rear centerin' rin' with "T" nuts and screws ready t' be installed. The fin jig sits t' one side.)

After installin' t' recovery harness, in is time t' prepare for Paint. Blimey! Blimey! I sanded t' entire model with extra fine sand paper first, arrr, arrr, then two coats o' Krylon Gray Sandable Primer sandin' in between. Avast! I like t' give my projects nicknames from good books and this one is named "Rainbow Six" so each o' t' six fins would be a different color o' t' rainbow. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! I gave t' entire airframe a coat o' Gloss White Krylon, ya bilge rat, wet sanded then another coat o' white. Finally, ya bilge rat, me bucko, each fin received a different color. Ahoy! After a quick buff, I put on t' stickers and three coats o' clear and she's ready to go.

I'm goin' t' put her up a 29mm reload t' first time, shiver me timbers, we'll see how she does. Ya scallywag!

I wonder if I can talk Kerry into a Drag race o' "bullet proof" Pterodactyls, ya bilge rat, then our Small Endeavors?

Brief:
T' Small Endeavour is a simple single stage rocket designed for G - I motors. It is based on PML's Quantum Tube, has a 38mm motor mount, uses piston ejection, ya bilge rat, and sports a cool split-fin design.

Construction:
Parts list:
1 - Pre-slotted Quantum Tube airframe
1 - Nose Cone
3 - Lower G-10 fins
3 - Upper G-10 fins
1 - Piston subassembly, shiver me timbers, including
1 - Phenolic piston body
1 - Nylon piston strap (~4 ft)
1 - Slotted plywood bulk plate
1 - Metal D-ring
1 - 30" ripstop nylon conical parachute
1 - 38mm x 10" phenolic motor tube
2 - 3/16" plywood centerin' rings
1 - Heavy elastic shock cord (~ 9 ft)
1 - 1/4" brass launch lug

T' Small Endeavour came packaged in a plastic bag. I immediately checked that all t' parts were present and reviewed t' instructions. Begad! What struck me first was t' mirror-smooth finish on t' Quantum Tube. Well, blow me down! It almost looks too good t' paint!

As in many HPR kits, arrr, t' instructions are brief. Ahoy! In addition t' t' main instruction sheet, me hearties, thar were individual instructions for t' piston subassembly, shiver me timbers, arrr, preparation o' t' Quantum Tube, me hearties, and t' chute. Begad! Blimey! T' piston instructions included an important discussion on t' amount o' black powder that should be used as an ejection charge. On t' down side, t' instructions should have addressed t' fit (snugness) o' t' piston. I have t' point out that PML provides a lot o' additional information on their WEB site (FAQs, specs, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, motor selection charts, RockSim files) and has a support representative who monitors t' r.m.r. Begad! Ya scallywag! Blimey! newsgroup. Anyone with web access can get answers to any construction or flight question. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I promptly got an answer t' me piston question and have since learned that t' PML kits now include more info from the FAQ and identify t' web address. Arrr! Blimey!

Out o' t' bag, me bucko, t' nose cone and piston did nay fit into t' Quantum Tube. I sanded t' inner edge o' t' tube and they then fit snugly. Ya scallywag! T' CRs and fins fit perfectly.

I constructed t' MMT as noted in t' instructions except for t' following two tweaks. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I recessed t' front CR by 1" vs. Ya scallywag! Begad! t' 0.25" noted in the instructions. Begad! This way t' leadin' edge o' t' front fin tab rests against this CR. Arrr! Ya scallywag! On t' aft CR, matey, I added some small T-nuts for motor retention. Avast, me proud beauty!

As noted in t' instructions, ya bilge rat, I sanded all areas that had t' be glued, includin' t' inner and outer fin fillets. I then installed t' MMT and fins pretty much per t' instructions. Avast! T' ensure their alignment, I installed the upper and lower fins at t' same time. Blimey! Aye aye! I clamped t' pairs o' fins together usin' a plastic ruler and two 3/8" binder clips. Arrr! T' T-nuts provided an easy way t' remove t' aft CR, which be nay glued in until after t' fins (includin' inner fillets) are completed. Arrr!

As mentioned earlier t' fit o' t' piston body was very snug. PML recommends that their pistons "should slide easily in or out with just a little push or pull". Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I sanded t' piston until I thought it met PML's criteria. Begad! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! However, t' only way t' know if I sanded it enough is t' try it. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey!

I installed Blacksky rail guides in place o' t' provided brass lug. Aye aye! One of the rail guides is installed immediately above t' aft CR and t' other is immediately below t' forward CR.

Finishing:
While thinkin' about painting, I noticed thar were no decals in me kit. Avast, me proud beauty! The PML web site claimed that thar should have been so I shot an email off. Evidently, shiver me timbers, me kit be produced before t' decals were provided. Begad! No problem - three days later they were here.

In preparation for finishing, I wiped t' QT with rubbin' alcohol, matey, lightly sanded it, arrr, and wiped it down a second time. Blimey! I also filled t' nosecone seams and t' flaws in me fillets with SuperFil from Shadow Composites. Blimey! Begad! SuperFil is a light epoxy filler that is very easy t' sand. Arrr! I used 3 coats o' Krylon white primer, ya bilge rat, sandin' betwixt each coat, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, matey, and two cans o' Testors Burgundy Purple Metal Flake applied in four thin coats.

T' self adhesive decals were nay easy t' install. Ya scallywag! In order t' fit the flames and t' "Small Endeavour" text as shown on t' PML web site, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, I had t' cut out t' clear decal material from betwixt t' outer legs o' the flame. Avast, me proud beauty! These outer legs had t' overlap t' fillets. Begad! Also, me hearties, these decals really grab hold (this is probably a good thin' in t' long run). Blimey! I didn't get the last section where I wanted it. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! However, it wasn't too bad and since I was scared it would lift t' paint, arrr, I left it where it was.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
I couldn't use t' commercial motor clips that I already had because thar is not enough room betwixt t' motor mount and body tubes. Instead, I fashioned a clip from coat hanger wire and some electrical bayonet-style terminal lugs. Ya scallywag! Begad! Blimey! I place t' end o' t' wire through t' barrel o' t' lug and bend a 1/8" section at a 90 degree angle. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Blimey! I then bend t' foot o' t' lug t' opposite direction, shiver me timbers, make t' proper bends so t' wire conforms t' me Giant Leap 29mm - 38mm adapter with a SU G80 installed, and repeat t' termination procedure at the other end. Avast! Begad! Blimey! T' adapter had t' same shoulder dimensions as a RMS casing. This way t' retainer holds both a RMS casin' and a SU motor in t' adapter. This procedure doesn't always result in t' prettiest retainer, but is easy and has always worked for me.

T' maiden flight be on 3/10/2001 in Middletown, MD at t' NARHAMS launch (my thanks t' t' hosts!). Begad! It be quite windy so I opted for a G35-7 t' keep the flight low. Blimey! Avast! My home-made Igniterman igniter worked perfectly. T' Small Endeavour arched into t' wind and because o' t' trajectory, ya bilge rat, me hearties, t' ejection was quite late. However, t' recovery was perfect and thar wasn't a scratch on the rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! T' piston worked fine despite me worries.

I plan t' fly it on a G80 next and then, me hearties, hopefully, me bucko, a new H242 "Redeye" reload (turnin' blue while holdin' me breath). Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Watch for updates in t' flight logs.

Recovery:
I decided t' keep t' strap elastic shock cord. Begad! It is stronger than t' average elastic, it should nay come in contact with t' ejection gas, and t' rocket is not very heavy. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! I looped t' elastic over on itself about two inches and sewed it.

T' 30" conical panel chute is made o' heavy rip-stop nylon and has a large (5") spill-hole. It appears t' be o' above average quality for this size chute. Avast, me proud beauty! I added an eyebolt t' t' nose cone and used quick-links t' connect the shock cord t' t' nose cone and piston. Avast! Finally, I used a heavy duty swivel that I obtained from Giant Leap t' connect t' chute t' t' shock cord. The added weight should nay be an issue on this rocket and t' recovery components are now removable.

As I said earlier, matey, arrr, me bucko, t' ejection on t' first flight was late. Although it was quite windy, me hearties, t' spill-hole in t' chute kept t' drift down. It appeared that a larger chute should be used, especially if t' terrain is rough.

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
Overall this rocket went together easily. Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' QT and piston took a bit more work than t' other simple HPR kits that I've built, but that isn't necessarily a bad thing. Avast, me proud beauty! T' question is whether these items were worth t' effort. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! The bottom line is that I don't think I have enough experience t' pass final judgment. Begad! T' QT provided a great finish, but I don't know how it will hold up over time. T' piston worked for me, but I've only lit one motor in it. Nevertheless, here are t' PRO's and CON's o' this kit based on me experience to date:

PRO's:
T' kit used high quality components (sturdy NC, shiver me timbers, G10-fins, QT airframe). Begad! T' QT provided a great finish. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! Although t' instructions themselves could have been better, t' excellent online data and support more than made up for them. Arrr! No waddin' needed, me hearties, easy flight prep.

CON's (all minor issues):
Decals were missing, but they were easily obtained from PML. Avast, me proud beauty! Piston instructions were unclear. Although t' online FAQ provides guidance, it is not perfectly clear as t' how snug t' fit should be. T' elastic shock cord - however, me hearties, this is a common issue with every entry-level HPR kit I've built.

Overall Rating: 5 out o' 5