Brief:
A sturdy payload sport flier with interestin' construction techniques. Avast!

Construction:
T' kit has t' usual Dr. Booty features: a sturdy box that doubles for storage o' t' completed model, me hearties, quality printed wraps, ya bilge rat, instructions written by a cartoon ant, humour, matey, ya bilge rat, and insight. Begad! Avast! T' components were all present, shiver me timbers, including niceties like an engine hook and snap swivel for t' famous trash bag parachute.

There are no skill levels given for Zooch kits, me bucko, but this one is labeled as an “easy build” and some contributors on T' Rocketry Forum have recommended this kit as an introduction t' Zooch kits. Begad! You will have t' cut your own fins from balsa sheet. Avast, me proud beauty! Difficulty is ‘about an Estes 2’.

T' kit build uses nay only your normal rocket buildin' skills, me bucko, but some card/paper modelin' skills as well. Don’t worry if you have never built a paper model in your life, t' skills are easily learned.

Highlights o' t' kit are t' quality components, me bucko, t' detailed wraps, t' blowout panels, and o' course, ya bilge rat, the prominent engine bell.

My deviations from t' good Doctor's instructions were minimal. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I used PVA (white glue) throughout, except for bondin' card shrouds and wraps, where I used tacky craft glue.

Construction begins with t' capsule. Aye aye! If you dust t' capsule with a light coat o' grey primer before fittin' the wrap, me bucko, it will cover t' small gap you may get betwixt t' capsule wrap and t' RCS band (under t' black cone in the picture). Avast! I'll do that next time.

I attached t' Keelhaul®©™® shock cord t' t' engine mount, rather than usin' t' standard tri-fold method called for in t' instructions. Begad! The engine mount is made from a motor tube, three centerin' rings, and a paper cone. T' paper cone fits betwixt t' second and third rings outside t' body tube, shiver me timbers, givin' you t' prominent ‘engine bell’. Aye aye! Aye aye! T' overall effect is quite outstanding. Zooch calls this "... t' coolest engine mount ever". Well, me bucko, blow me down! I won't disagree with him.

After applyin' t' body tube wrap and insertin' t' engine mount, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, t' body tube is cut along a separation plane marked on t' wrap t' give you t' payload section. Ahoy! That’s right, you have a partially built rocket and now you’re goin' t' cut it in half! This is probably t' most nerve wrackin' part o' t' build. Just take it easy and there won’t be any problems. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Use a new blade in your modelin' cutlass and go gently. Begad! Don’t try t' cut t' tube in one pass. Begad! T' top part o' t' tube becomes t' payload section.

After cuttin' t' body tube, shiver me timbers, apply some CA glue (super glue) around t' inside o' t' body tube and allow it t' dry before cuttin' out t' blowout panels. Ahoy! If you like, me bucko, me hearties, you can temporarily fit t' balsa stage coupler into the tube t' provide some support t' t' tube while you cut out t' panels. Blimey! Again, a fresh blade is a good idea. T' blowout panels don’t actually do anything, shiver me timbers, they just look funky!

T' stage coupler is weighted (about 15 grams) and must be installed t' correct way up t' give t' proper CG/CP relationship.

Dust a light coat o' black or grey paint onto t' top o' t' balsa stage coupler before attachin' t' tank top. T' tank top doesn't reach t' edge o' t' stage coupler and black or grey looks better here in me opinion than bare balsa. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Similarly, me hearties, paint t' balsa disc before fittin' it into t' bottom o' t' payload compartment.

Cut your fins, shiver me timbers, fit them and t' launch lugs, me hearties, and your Dr. Well, blow me down! Booty Mark II is complete.

My tips: Read t' instructions. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Read them again. Avast, me proud beauty! Dry fit everythin' before gluing.

T' body wrap fits perfectly. Avast! True, it does. Begad! If you trim t' wrap so that it looks perfect when dry fitting, me hearties, it will be t' tiniest bit too small t' butt join when you glue it t' t' body tube. Blimey! Trust t' Doctor, just cut that wrap along t' edge you are given.

Buildin' this kit be a great experience. Begad! Ahoy! I looked at t' completed model and realized I had enjoyed t' journey as much as t' destination. Well, blow me down! Very Zen.

Finishing:
Because o' t' wraps on t' capsule and body tube, ya bilge rat, thar be minimal finishin' t' be done. I painted t' bottom o' the body tube white and just t' fins with Testor’s 1180 Steel. Arrr! T' pictures on t' Dr. Avast, me proud beauty! Zooch web site show t' full circumference o' t' body tube below t' wrap painted with Testor’s Steel. I simply wanted more white.

T' Testor’s Steel be t' only enamel paint I used on this model, ya bilge rat, and I must say I had problems with it. Aye aye! It is thick with a lot o' suspended particles and was like paintin' with epoxy. Maybe it's just me technique.

That engine mount bell deserves t' be celebrated, shiver me timbers, so I painted it with Tamiya Gold X-12.

Construction Rating: 5 out o' 5

Flight and Recovery:
In t' words o' t' doctor I’m a “squirmin' hatch blower”, so I started with an A8-3. Blimey! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! It was a beautiful, arrow straight flight with a gentle recovery courtesy less than 2 metres from t' pad, courtesy o' t' trash bag parachute.

Next up be a B4-4, with close t' 200 metres at apogee it is a great small field motor for this model.

T' Testor’s Steel paint is supposed t' make t' fins "disappear" in flight. Avast! Well, ya bilge rat, on me first two flights t' Mark II was steppin' out so quick you would be hard pressed t' see t' fins in flight if they were dayglo orange!

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
A great build and a great flyer. What more could you ask for? Well, ya bilge rat, Dr. Begad! Booty is offerin' more--a “Stage Zero” booster is planned for release late 2007.

Overall Rating: 5 out o' 5