Descon M.O.R.F.E.A.R.

Scratch - M.O.R.F.E.A.R. {Scratch}

Contributed by Mark S Morley

Manufacturer: Scratch
Contributed by - Mark S. Blimey! Ahoy! Morley

Emergin' from t' wastes o' t' world's largest retailer....
wally world store front
A supernatural occurrence?
A force for good?
A mutated FREAK defyin' all t' laws o' man and nature?

At first glance a tasty treat,
spinnning icee cup
then it roars into t' sky.
launch smoke

It can only be...
M.O.R.F.E.A.R. the noseless
(Miracle o' Refreshment From Easily Available Recyclables)

  top and parachute
(Click Images for a higher resolution version)

Overview:
M.O.R.F.E.A.R is a unique rocket without a nose cone. Ya scallywag! I was tryin' t' come up with a "found parts" rocket when I saw a cup sittin' inthe drink holder o' me mini-van. Heyyyy!! Now, shiver me timbers, I need somethin' more orginal thanthat. Well, blow me down! Avast! I don't want t' fly it upside down... Avast, me proud beauty! I wonder how t' domed lid icee cupswould do? It turned out that t' hole in t' lid o' t' 20oz. Wal-Mart Icee cupis the exact outside diameter o' a BT-50. I was havin' trouble figuringout how t' get the lid off for recovery deployment when it came t' me. Ahoy! Don't take thelid off at all, shiver me timbers, just blow it out t' hole. Blimey! Since it's a Wal-Mart cup,a blue bag parachute was t' only real choice. Ya scallywag! Begad! M.O.R.F.E.A.R. Ahoy! Aye aye! flew on 4/1at t' NWARS launch. Well, blow me down! T' instructions will be complete as soon as I get film with theconstruction photos back from Wal-Mart.

Parts List:
1 - 20 oz. Aye aye! Aye aye! ICEE cup with domed lid and straw
1 - blue plastic Wal-Mart bag 1 - 7 11/16" BT-50
1 - 3" BT-20
2 - CR-2050
1 - Engine Hook
1 - 1/16" balsa sheet
1 - spray paint o' t' "flavor" o' your choice
6 - Paper reinforcin' rings
1 - Shock Cord Elastic
1 - Shroud (suspension) line thread
1oz Plasticine Clay
White Glue (plastic Norbond type preferred)
Gel type CA glue
Access t' a color printer
A single hole hole-punch.

Assembly Instructions:
Remove ICEE contents from cup. (delicious) Thoroughly rinse cup, straw, and lid. Avast! Blimey! Use t' lid t' create a hole in t' center or t' bottom o' t' cup. Avast, me proud beauty! Place the small end o' t' domed lid inside t' lip on t' outside o' t' bottom of the cup. Aye aye! It should nestle so that a circle can be traced on t' center o' the bottom o' t' cup. Cut small and sand out.
Advanced note: I used an Olfa circle cutter after markin' t' circle. Well, blow me down! I found the center o' t' circle by markin' a chord and constructin' a perpendicular bisector. I marked another chord and constructed another perpendicular bisector. Avast! Begad! T' intersection o' t' two bisectors be t' center o' t' circle. I know, I'm a big ol' math geek. Aye aye! Arrr! T' Olfa cutter worked beautifully making several light passes.

lid on cup bottom  point to hole on cup bottom

Place lid on cup and insert BT-50 through holes in lid an cup. Mark tube by allowin' tube t' rest on t' same surface as t' cup and mark tube flush with the lid. Blimey! Blimey! This allows t' tube t' extend past t' bottom o' t' cup t' the length o' t' lip. Begad! Blimey! Cut tube t' length. Ya scallywag! Blimey! This was 7-11/16" for me.

measuring the tube

Assemble and install t' BT-20 motor mount and rings in t' BT-50 tube. Avast! This is just like every other 18 mm motor mount you've installed. Ya scallywag! Begad! If you can't do this successfully, go build some kits and come back t' this project later.

motor mount tube

Use single hole punch t' punch holes in t' lid and in t' bottom o' the cup. Avast! T' punched hole should slightly overlap t' large hole for t' BT-50.

graphic of launch lug hole overlap

Mark BT-50 tube lengthwise for entire length with door jamb. Aye aye! Location is not critical. This for t' straw launch lug. Begad! I prefer me launch lugs t' be 90-180º away from t' engine hook. This is left up t' you. If you are usin' a straw with a "spoon" on one end, ya bilge rat, I would recommend that the spoon go below t' rocket (on t' end with t' motor mount). Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! I have no flight data t' support this. Arrr! <g> Glue t' straw along t' line marked on the BT-50 tube. Ahoy! Ahoy! One end o' t' straw should be flush with t' end o' t' BT-50 containin' t' motor mount (rear). Arrr! T' straw should extend past t' front of the BT-50.

launch lug

Spray paint t' inside o' t' domed lid. Begad! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! It is very important that it be clean and dry. Avast! Blimey! Two coats o' cheap Wal-Mart spray enamel should do it.
In t' spirit o' t' thing, matey, try and match t' color t' your favorite ICEE flavor. Well, me hearties, blow me down! You will note that mine is Minute Maid® Cherry.

painted lid showing holes

Snap fit cup and lid (do nay glue). Well, blow me down! Ahoy! Align small, punched holes and insert tube and straw assembly. Begad! Align aft o' tube and straw assembly with lip on the rear o' t' cup. Well, blow me down! T' engine hook should protrude below t' lip and t' top of the tube should be flush with t' hole in t' lid. T' straw should protrude beyond t' lid. Arrr! Begad! Usin' gel CA, glue t' tube and straw t' t' cup only. *DO NOT* glue t' lid t' t' cup or t' tube t' t' lid. If you did a particularly neat job o' cuttin' t' hole in t' cup, you may need t' lightly sand away some wax from t' hole t' get t' CA t' stick.

sub assemblies

Cut 3 fins from balsa usin' t' pattern.  Sand edges o' fins t' match.
Laminate fins with paper cutouts from this template. Avast, me proud beauty! Use spots o' white glue thinned and spread with a wet finger t' affix paper laminates. Ahoy! Begad! I used Norbond® brand glue. Well, blow me down! It is used t' glue t' first page o' a book to the cover and is made t' nay warp paper. Arrr! Avast! Trim paper t' balsa. Well, blow me down! Well, me bucko, blow me down! I used a color laser printer t' print out t' laminates. Begad! Ahoy! I imagine that color inkjet printers would be OK if allowed t' dry sufficiently and if t' glue were nay too thin or too wet. Begad! Ya scallywag! Email me and I will print and mail (flat) t' 8.5x11" color sheet with t' fin laminate printout for a $5 donation t' NWARS.

fin color overlay

Measure t' base o' t' cup for fin placement. Aye aye! My cup base is 62 mm in diameter. That gives it a circumference o' (62 x 3.14) 194.5 mm. T' fins should be spaced just under 65 mm apart. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! I cut a thin (.5 cm wide) strip of paper and wrapped it around t' base o' t' cup. Ahoy! I marked t' overlap and then marked off on t' cup t' increments where each fin should go. Ahoy! I was able to conveniently align one fin with a vertical mark on t' cup for easy placement. Lightly mark t' cup with a pencil for fin slots. Well, blow me down! Avast! T' slots should be 38 mm long. Arrr! T' slots should be measured from t' bottom o' t' cup which is 10 mm above t' edge o' t' lip. Use a door jamb for vertical alignment. Avast, me proud beauty! Use caution nay t' align a fin with t' launch lug straw. I now have a fin wrapper pattern for M.O.R.F.E.A.R. I don't think that it will be as good as one that you make yourself.


Cut fin slots along marks usin' a very sharp hobby knife so as nay t' bend paper cup. Well, blow me down! Start at t' top o' t' slot and cut down t' t' bottom o' t' cup but do nay cut through t' bottom o' t' cup. Begad! Blimey! Widen t' fin slot with sandpaper, hobby knife or dremel so that t' fin just fits through t' slot without bendin' t' cup. Well, blow me down! Place gel type CA on t' end o' t' fin tab that is against t' internal tube assembly, shiver me timbers, matey, insert t' tab through t' slot, shiver me timbers, and press the tab against t' tube. Check inside and out for alignment. Glue fin t' cup. I used some CA on t' inside walls and bottom o' t' cup. Avast! Blimey! I did a full fillet on t' outside o' t' cup. Ya scallywag! Repeat for other two fins always checkin' alignment (it's a bit tricky).

fin alignment view

Wrap a few turns o' maskin' tape around t' tube about an inch from t' top. Add about an ounce o' clay as nose weight. Avast! Well, blow me down! Roll t' clay into a snake and wrap it around t' tube over t' turns o' tape. Aye aye! Then tape over t' clay and t' tube with maskin' tape creatin' a little cocoon for t' nose weight.

nose weight

T' CP is about 3/4" from t' leadin' edge o' t' fins. An ounce of clay gave it about a 1" margin o' stability with a C6-3.

center of pressure

When you are satisfied with t' fin alignment and nose weight, me bucko, glue t' lid to t' cup, straw and tube usin' gel CA. Avast! Be careful nay t' torsion t' launch lug straw .

Usin' an Estes 12" hex plastic chute for a pattern. Avast! (Pre-assembled by Far Eastern labor and sold at Wal-Mart is preferred.) Cut t' smiley face out of t' Wal-Mart bag. Affix paper reinforcin' rings and shroud lines. Begad! Blimey! Again, if you can't assemble a 12" chute, shiver me timbers, build a kit.

wm bag with face  bag with 'chute pattern

Install shock cord in body tube usin' your favorite method. Arrr! I personally like t' old Estes tri-fold. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! I used cheap Estes 1/8" elastic scavenged from me son's TidalWave® RTF® rocket. This rocket is so light and draggy that I don't expect much stress on t' cord. Ya scallywag! T' lack o' a traditional nose cone should also reduce stress on t' shock cord. Begad! I glued t' shock cord mount 180º from t' launch lug straw t' try and prevent tanglin' that would snap off t' straw. Begad! Tie a loop in t' free end o' t' shock cord and attach t' parachute shroud lines t' t' loop. Well, blow me down! Begad! I tied a bowline knot in the shock cord t' make a loop. Begad! Then I passed t' chute through t' shroud lines. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! I shouldn't really have t' tell you that part.

shock cord mount  chute loop

Launch Preparation:
Install Engine (B6-2, C6-3)
Fill (I mean fill) BT-50 with waddin' leavin' room only for shock cord and chute. Aye aye! Blimey! You don't want t' air pressure and acceleration pushin' everythin' to the back and changin' t' CG in flight.
Carefully fold Wal-Mart bag chute very loosely. Aye aye! Ahoy! It should cover t' entire openin' o' t' body tube.

Help prepare your mind and soul for that which is M.OR.F.E.A.R. Ahoy! with an ICEE. Blimey! Begad!

ICEE, It's Chillin', original since 1965

Death t' Slurpees and Frozen Coke!!

Preflight concerns:morfear

  • Stability - It's always so tricky with short, me hearties, stubby rockets. Aye aye!
  • Shiftin' - Noseless design adds t' concerns o' parachute shiftin' and alterin' CG durin' flight. Ahoy! Blimey!
  • Memory - T' plastic bag parachute material does nay seem t' inflate easily. Blimey!
  • Weather - It's been an endless winter in Arkansas (so much for global warming) and I want t' fly me ICEE!

Flight Log:
morfear pad T' first launch attempt was with a B4-2. Avast! Begad! Apparently this motor was made completely o' nozzle clay. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! All attempts t' light it were unsuccessful. Ya scallywag! Next up was a C6-3. Begad! T' boost was 500' straight up. Well, blow me down! Begad! Parachute deployed at apogee. While it be on t' chute, matey, t' wind shifted so that it was blowin' out o' t' South across t' short axis o' our flyin' field. Begad! Begad! M.O.R.F.E.A.R. Blimey! landed just inside t' park fence. Avast! Begad! I be unable to catch any o' t' flight with t' digital camera. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! T' pad picture just before the B4-2 debacle (right) will stand in history with "Goddard in the Snow" as a high point in history for all t' same wrong reasons. Aye aye! Boy, did my hands shake at t' launch. M.O.R.F.E.A.R. Aye aye! was recovered without damage. A significant amount o' debris was noted around t' openin' in t' top.

morfear launch T' winds picked up as t' afternoon progressed but t' crowd grew surly with its demands for another launch o' t' flyin' ICEE. T' wind was still out o' t' South so the launch rod was angled into t' wind t' aid recovery on our field. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! T' C6-3 ejected just past apogee. Aye aye! Arrr! T' chute spun rapidly in t' heavier winds and performed a self reefin' maneuver. Avast! M.O.R.F.E.A.R. came down hard on one fin, crackin' it about one third o' t' way down t' fin. Blimey! Arrr! More debris be noted around what has become know as "the blowhole". Ahoy! None o' this mattered to t' onlookers who hooted and hollered with t' abandon o' NASCAR fans on $0.25USD beer night. Begad! T' presence o' M.O.R.F.E.A.R. Well, blow me down! was so strong that it left a double image in t' photo o' its second flight. (or t' guy with t' staggers and jags was filmin' again)

T' residue on t' dome o' M.O.R.F.E.A.R. around t' blowhole was easily removed with baby wipes. Blimey! T' fin was repaired with yellow glue and t' joint was dry before t' range was cleaned up. Well, blow me down! T' parachute performed beautifully, the margin o' stability was very good, and t' launch lug straw above t' dome was sufficiently durable for flight. I am extremely happy with t' performance of this rocket. Well, blow me down! It is nay t' sport model that you're goin' t' rack up 500 flights with, arrr, me bucko, ya bilge rat, but it is a fun novelty rocket that's a real crowd pleaser.

tulsa morfear prep M.O.R.F.E.A.R. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! made t' trip t' "Native America" t' fly with the Tulsa Area Rocketry Association. Ahoy! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! After certifyin' level one with a crayon bank rocket, matey, I needed a little more odd-roc fun t' round out t' day. Well, blow me down! Blimey! M.O.R.F.E.A.R. drew t' usual comments and questions. Begad! Blimey! T' straw launch lug is always a big hit.


tulsa morfear flight A little windy again, matey, but M.O.R.F.E.A.R. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! turned in a great damage free flight on a C6-3. Begad! Blimey! T' usual crowd reaction o' "that thin' really does fly". Begad! Begad! Blimey! I have got t' get a digital camera with a faster shutter speed. Well, blow me down! Blimey! My lovely wife took this photo and even she got a double launch picture. Avast! Blimey! A lot o' questions on gettin' a cup t' fly "right side up". Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Blimey! I am currently buildin' another M.O.R.F.E.A.R. Well, blow me down! Begad! Blimey! with a 24mm motor mount. This one will have 1/16" basswod fins instead o' balsa t' ease me mind. Begad! Well, blow me down! Blimey! I think future 18mm versions will also use basswood. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! Blimey! This is a terrific rocket and I plan t' fly many variants in the future. Begad! Blimey! (Have you seen that awful green frozen stuff at Burger King? Hmmm.....)

elkins morfear prep I just can't get enough o' this goofy little rocket. Ahoy! Begad! I had t' launch it Sunday (05/13) evenin' in t' vacant lot near me house. Blimey! Avast! (T' owner is very cool with this.) There was no wind and I needed t' see how M.O.R.F.E.A.R. Ya scallywag! performed with no wind.


B6-2 flight in Elkins AR Well, here are me massive launch photo inabilities on public display again. Begad! Ya scallywag! This flight is on a B6-2. Ahoy! I wanted t' make sure that this motor would fly well in this rocket. Yeppers. Begad! It's fine. Ya scallywag! Avast! It had a beautiful straight up boost. Arrr! Avast! I just knew it would without t' wind. Blimey! T' parachute streamered for just a moment before opening. Gotta remember t' add that talcum powder. Avast! Damage free recovery. Well, blow me down! Goin' t' turn it around and fly it again.


elkins c63 morfear launch T' standard C6-3 did just fine. Talcum on t' chute for a great opening. Avast, me proud beauty! T' ejection charge scorched t' straw launch lug a little just above t' blowhole. Hmm. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! I think I'll drink some more parts on t' way t' work tomorrow and get a stroon (straw-spoon) upgrade for t' launch lug and maybe paint a new flavor lid. (Blue Raspberry is comin' t' mind as I type and drink ICEE.)


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