Brief:
T' Binder Design Stealth Jr is a single stage, me hearties, 29mm mid-powered rocket kit with parachute recovery. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! T' kit features four 1/8" aircraft plywood main fins, ya bilge rat, arrr, four small 1/8" aircraft plywood canard fins, a generous payload bay, shiver me timbers, 12 feet o' 3/16" tubular nylon shock cord, matey, and a 24" Binder Design premium chute. Arrr! T' kit includes pre-slotted airframes for an easier build and comes with a fin alignment guide.

Construction:
T' kit comes extremely well packaged and includes all o' t' components necessary t' complete t' rocket for flight. Ahoy! Begad! T' packagin' is very well laid out with all o' t' smaller parts in sub-packages within t' main bag. Well, blow me down! T' kit included t' followin' parts:

• 1 Binder Design 5:1 plastic ogive nose cone
• 4 plastic rivets for securin' t' nose cone t' t' payload bay
• 1 payload tube, 12" long x 2.6" OD heavy kraft paper tube, pre-slotted for t' forward fin attachment
• 1 airframe tube, 22" long x 2.6" OD heavy kraft paper tube, pre-slotted for through-the-wall attachment o' t' main fins, ya bilge rat, and pre-marked for launch lug attachment
• 1 5" long heavy paper (kraft) tube coupler
• 1 29mm motor mount tube, me hearties, heavy kraft paper, 11" long
• 1 thick paper 1/4" launch lug, 4" long
• 4 pre-cut and sanded forward fins, matey, 1/8" aircraft plywood
• 4 pre-cut and sanded main fins, ya bilge rat, 1/8" aircraft plywood
• 2 centerin' rings for t' motor mount t' t' 2.6" airframe, made from 1/4" lite ply
• 1 bulkhead plate, pre-drilled for t' eyebolt, arrr, 1/4" lite ply, for attachment inside t' tube coupler
• 2 #6 eyebolts for shock cord attachment, complete with 4 washers and 4 nuts
• 12' o' low-stretch tubular nylon for t' shock cord
• 24" premium heavy-duty rip stop nylon parachute
• 10 pages o' very well illustrated instructions
• A fin alignment template
• 1 vinyl "STEALTH" decal. Begad! Blimey! My decal was a metallic silver color.

This rocket be me second Binder Design kit t' cross me build table and like the first, it was a pleasure t' build.

First, me bucko, t' instructions are outstanding! Blimey! Lots o' illustrations and information t' walk you through a straightforward build. Aye aye! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! I kind o' jumped around a bit so t' actual sequencin' o' me build is a bit different from the instructions but that is nay because t' provided build sequence is illogical or anything. Aye aye! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I just went about buildin' how I wanted to.

T' first step is t' drill a hole in one o' t' motor mount centerin' rings to attach one o' t' two eye-bolts for shock cord attachment. Begad! T' eyebolt is then secured t' t' centerin' rin' through t' hole with a washer and nut on both sides for a snug, arrr, secure fit. Then t' motor mount is assembled by gluing only t' forward centerin' rin' (the one with t' eyebolt) at this time. Ya scallywag! I opted t' sand t' glassine layer off o' t' motor mount tube first for better glue adhesion for both t' rin' and t' fins which are attached durin' a later step. Secondly, me bucko, because t' components involved are kraft paper and plywood, arrr, I opted t' use Elmer's ProBond wood glue in t' construction process. Ahoy! Although the instructions call for 15 or 30 minute epoxy, I elected for this building technique after much discussion on T' Rocketry Forum with other builders as well as it be me preference. T' aft centerin' rin' is nay glued t' t' motor tube at this time so that it can be removed after t' initial tack o' t' fins for internal fillets. Well, blow me down! This is well spelled out in t' instructions.

T' next step is t' tie t' shock cord t' t' eyebolt. A nice diagram is provided t' describe perfectly t' suggested knot t' be used (a three-wrap "blood knot"). Well, blow me down! T' instructions called t' slather epoxy over t' knot to prevent it from loosenin' later. I found this t' be a good suggestion.

After t' glue on t' forward rin' and t' epoxy on t' knot has set, the next thin' t' do is pull t' shock cord down through t' motor tube so that it isn't in t' way, apply adhesive t' t' inside o' t' airframe at t' forward edge o' t' main fin slots, shiver me timbers, matey, and slide t' motor mount in t' glue t' forward rin' in place. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Again, matey, t' aft rin' is only dry fit on t' motor mount tube and should only be dry fit within t' airframe t' make sure t' tube is centered properly as t' glue sets. T' instructions suggest a nifty "tape-tab" method for removin' t' snug-fittin' aft rin' later. Furthermore, t' instructions point out you must take care t' nay get glue inside t' airframe in t' vicinity o' t' aft rin' so that it can be removed later.

Next, t' main fins are applied. Ahoy! I dry fit t' fins first t' make sure that the slots were cut well and they were a great fit. Begad! They were just a shade longer (1/16" o' an inch or so) than t' fin tabs, so I elected t' make them snug against t' aft o' t' fin slots for uniformity. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Before applyin' the fins, arrr, I sanded t' glassine layer off t' airframes exterior about 1/8" around each fin slot for better glue adhesion. Glue is applied t' t' fin root and they are slid through t' slot for attachment t' t' motor mount tube. Again, care is taken t' nay get glue on t' aft rin' area at this time. Aye aye! I simply did nay put glue on t' 1/2" or so o' t' fin tab at t' aft to prevent a "squish out" that could become a problem there. Begad! The provided fin-alignment template made gettin' them nice and perpendicular a snap!

While t' main fins are drying, matey, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, t' canard fins can be attached t' the pre-slotted payload. T' builder is instructed t' insert t' tabs on the canards 1/8" through t' slots and then apply good fillets inside and out. I was apprehensive with this at first, since thar was no interior tube for these fins t' attach to. Begad! In t' end however, ya bilge rat, these fins are relatively small so this be a non-issue. Ahoy! I applied a thick bead o' glue t' each side o' t' fin tab on these forward fins before slidin' them in so that thar would be somethin' for them t' "grab" with and nay fall all t' way through the slot. If any o' this glue beaded up on t' outside o' t' airframe during insertion, I just leveled it out with me finger and chalked it up as part of the filletin' process, which worked great! I used a small (1/16") wooden dowel t' get t' glue in thar for t' internal fillets. Begad! Begad! A dowel that small was not necessary, it's just what I had on hand at t' time.

Back t' t' main fins. Avast, me proud beauty! After they have dried t' t' motor mount tube, me bucko, the aft rin' is removed and six fillets are applied t' each fin. Two on each side at t' motor mount tube, matey, two on each side at t' inside o' t' airframe, arrr, and two on each side on t' outside o' t' airframe. With four fins, me hearties, that's 24 fillets. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Again, ya bilge rat, arrr, I used wood glue for this and just slathered it in thar with my little wooden dowel. Begad! Aye aye! Blimey! It took some patience, shiver me timbers, matey, but I got it done without much trouble. Begad! Blimey! I did discover that I could fully apply half o' t' fillets on the first pass, matey, me hearties, matey, let them set a bit with t' rocket held horizontally, then roll the rocket over 180 degrees and apply t' other half.

While t' fillets were drying, matey, t' bulkhead/payload coupler is built and attached. Avast, me proud beauty! First, me bucko, t' remainin' provided eyebolt is secured t' t' pre-drilled bulkhead plate in t' same fashion as t' other eyebolt was t' t' forward centerin' ring. Two washers and two nuts make for a nice fit. Then t' bulkhead plate is glued into t' inside o' t' tube coupler about 1/8" in from one end. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Fillets are added t' both sides o' t' bulkplate t' complete t' assembly. After t' glue has dried enough where t' fillets won't run, me bucko, t' coupler is glued into t' bottom o' t' payload tube with t' bulkhead/eyebolt at the bottom. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! T' coupler is installed about 2.5" into t' payload tube, leaving 2.5" for a shoulder into t' main airframe when t' rocket is assembled. At this point, I set t' whole thin' aside for t' evenin' t' let all the fillets cure completely and picked up t' build t' next day.

I started construction t' followin' mornin' knowin' that t' finish line was near and I'd have a finished bird! I started by removin' t' dry fit rear centerin' ring. Ahoy! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! I opted t' drill it and install a pair o' T-nuts in it for positive motor retention clips before gluin' it in. I then slathered t' glue on t' inside o' t' airframe and over t' motor tube and slid it in. Blimey! It wanted to bind and grab because o' t' wood glue and it took some "coaxing" with a small hammer but I got it in without mishap.

Then t' launch lug is installed. Begad! As is mentioned in other Binder Design reviews, ya bilge rat, t' launch lug is a very tight fit on a 1/4" launch rod. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! I tested t' lug on me rod before gluin' it on and opted t' ditch it in favor of a pair o' shorter 1/4" lugs that I had in t' parts box from Apogee Components. I sanded t' glassine off o' t' pre-marked launch lug line as well as t' lugs and put one near t' top o' t' lower airframe and t' other near the bottom.

Then t' nose cone is slid into place and drilled for t' rivets that hold it in, which I feel is a slick method o' makin' sure you don't lose your cone without gluin' it in. Begad! Blimey! This enables t' builder t' remove it and actually utilize that big payload bay! First, t' nose cone required about 10 wraps of maskin' tape t' get a secure fit in t' payload tube. This is common with Binder Design kits, and although t' shoulder is loose within t' airframe, me hearties, shiver me timbers, the OD o' t' base o' t' cone matches t' OD o' t' airframe very well. Begad! Begad! Once the nose cone is in, four holes are drilled at 3/4" below t' top o' the payload tube for t' plastic rivets. With t' payload tube marked for the provided cuts for t' canard fins, ya bilge rat, gettin' these holes evenly spaced around the tube was a snap. Arrr! After t' four holes are drilled, shiver me timbers, t' plastic rivets are simply pushed through t' holes, me hearties, effectively lockin' t' cone in place until the rivets are removed.

All that's left now is t' tie t' shock cord t' t' eyebolt on t' payload and attach t' chute. T' shock cord is tied t' t' forward eyebolt in the exact manner as it is t' t' forward centerin' ring. As for t' parachute, the instructions call t' use t' "pull through t' loops" method and attach it directly t' t' shock cord a few inches below t' knot at the bulkplate attachment point. Arrr! I opted t' attach t' shroud lines t' a heavy sampo swivel/clip instead so I could remove it for storage and possible use in other birds. For flight, I'd just clip t' parachute t' t' eyebolt.

PROs: Great packaging, wonderfully clear instructions, good fittin' high quality parts that can be assembled without special buildin' techniques, and no "gotchas" in t' build that I can think of

CONs: T' launch lug is too tight and needs replaced, me hearties, and thar be no positive motor retention provided (minor detail).

Finishing:
I hardly bother with fillin' tube spirals, me bucko, especially with mid powered rockets. My experience with rockets o' this class and higher is that people don't look at them with magnifyin' glasses and inspect your fine modelin' skills as when showin' off finely crafted "model" rockets. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! So, arrr, shiver me timbers, no comment on the spirals from me. I don't find them noticeable, me hearties, particularly with these tubes anyway. Ya scallywag! However, me bucko, I did use Elmer's Fill 'n' Finish t' patch t' gaps in the forward and aft ends o' t' fin slots where necessary. Ya scallywag! T' instructions suggest a spot-putty or Bondo type product for this, but bein' paper and wood, I thought t' wood filler would be fine. Begad! I dabbed it in thar and sanded off the excess which came out great!

For t' fins, I masked t' tube areas off and applied two heavy coats of Folk Art aerosol sandin' sealer and sanded with 400 grit betwixt coats. Arrr! This filled all t' grains in t' fins t' a plastic-like, smooth finish.

T' nose cone required minor sandin' t' remove some mold flashin' in addition t' standard sandin' needed on a plastic cone prior t' paintin' for better adhesion.

For paint, I was happy t' work with a rocket with a single color paint scheme for a change. Aye aye! Primer and paint. Ahoy! Begad! Simple. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! I gave it two coats o' Krylon gray primer, sandin' in betwixt coats. Aye aye! For t' main color, me hearties, me hearties, matey, t' kit art appears to be gloss black with a white decal. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! Since me provided decal was metallic silver, I opted for Rustoleum Midnight Black Metallic. This stuff looks splendid, dries quickly, ya bilge rat, and goes on smooth.

After t' paint dried overnight, t' decal was applied. Avast! Aye aye! For me, ya bilge rat, I laid the decal on t' airframe before removin' t' backin' paper t' make sure it would look good in t' designated spot. At first, I laid it entirely on t' lower airframe, just below t' seam o' t' airframe and t' payload bay. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! This just made t' decal look t' low or off-center somehow t' me. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! So after thinkin' about it a bit, I slid it forward with t' "H" on t' payload, the "STEALT" on t' lower airframe, and t' seam splittin' the "T" and "H". Ya scallywag! This looked a lot better t' me. Aye aye! Begad! So I took great care t' make sure I had t' canard fins and main fins lined up, removed the backin' paper, sprayed t' decal and that application spot with soapy water, laid it down, me hearties, pressed out t' bubbles, arrr, me bucko, let it dry, arrr, and presto! Bein' a stickler for makin' sure everythin' lines up for flight, this decal placement actually helps in t' field. Just slide t' two halves together and twist until the decal is in alignment. Aye aye! Begad! Ready t' go!

PROs: One color paint scheme and high quality cut-vinyl decal.

CONs: None.

Construction Rating: 5 out o' 5

Flight:
My first flight with this rocket was goin' t' be part o' me first experience actually buildin' and usin' RMS motors, so naturally I was nervous. With the recommended motors bein' simply "F and G", shiver me timbers, me bucko, me hearties, that wouldn't settle for me. Aye aye! Blimey! I emailed Mike Fisher with Binder Design and he sent me t' RockSim file for this rocket. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Blimey! I used RockSim t' run t' "non-Level 1" reloads through t' sims t' try and come up with some better suggestions. Ahoy! Ahoy! Blimey! I had the cases, shiver me timbers, me hearties, so what t' heck.

My first concern in pickin' motors wasn't so much t' altitudes. Ahoy! I was lookin' for t' slowest projected velocity at deployment based on me simulation inputs. Avast, me proud beauty! I printed out me simulation data and be off t' a Tripoli club launch where Tim Lehr, arrr, t' "Wildman" from Wildman Rocketry, me hearties, me bucko, was t' onsite vendor and was a great help. Begad! Ahoy! My first choice be a G64-7 reload but that wasn't available. Ahoy! My second choice be a G54W in me 29/100 case with a RDK-3 short delay. That was t' ticket for t' day.

T' Stealth Jr be me 5th flight o' t' day. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! T' reload was assembled and installed, and I clamped down me home grown motor retention clips. Ahoy! Then, I dropped a couple o' handfuls o' "dog barf" cellulose waddin' in the airframe, looped in that long shock cord, folded and packed t' parachute, and put t' payload bay in place and headed for t' pads.

T' G54W was a perfect first flight. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Straight as an arrow with a nice quick boost. The delay change t' t' 6 second delay be even better. Blimey! Just as t' rocket flattened out at apogee, arrr, arrr, t' payload separated at ejection and you could see the big chute unfurl and inflate before that 12' cord uncoiled completely. Begad! The rocket gently swung into recovery position and drifted down for a soft landing on t' sod. Arrr!

T' second flight be a personal launch at a friend's farm. This time, I had gotten a hold o' a G64-7 for me 29/40-120 case. Aye aye! T' results were t' same, only a much snappier boost and quite a bit higher. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Again, arrr, a great flight with a sweet looking, shiver me timbers, me hearties, sweet flyin' bird.

PROs: What can you say? Stable, arrr, arrow straight and looks good on t' pad and in the air.

CONs: A more definite motor selection matrix would be a plus.

Recovery:
T' provided parachute is just beefy. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Nice heavy shroud lines, and me flights provided a nice, soft deployment and scratch free landings.

I might consider a tubular Keelhaul®©™® protector for t' shock cord for longevity, ya bilge rat, but I have had no problems with scorchin' or meltin' t' this point. Well, blow me down! Dog barf works great for me as a wadding, and after two flights t' Stealth Jr is still "good as new."

PROS: My flights recovered perfectly with acceptable drift and no damage.

CONS: Can't think o' any!

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
I really like this rocket! Great materials, great packaging, goes together well, and looks really great when you're through. A super solid build that feels light, matey, yet extremely sturdy. Avast, me proud beauty! My next flight is planned with an H165R reload for a Level 1 certification flight. Begad! Based on me experience flyin' this rocket and t' simulated altitude o' about 2100' with that reload, I'm sure that it will be very doable. I'd recommend this rocket t' anyone in t' market for a 29mm powered kit.

Overall Rating: 5 out o' 5